Yellow color has been stopped to use at all Proton SC , because Blue Bottle is much better than yellow bottle is synthetic oil. 

The spec for it is ezl799, just look for a number 799 on the bottle.
I still haven't found any for sale locally yet despite a mushrooming growth of CVT transmissions. Our online oil finders here still recommend 7+ litres of dexron atf, so I suppose it's a matter of time and failures before they realise CVTs exist.

In theory yes.

just stick to proton ori. you don't want to rosaked your gearbox like it happen to savvy before.

must use ori renault gb oil la. keyword use ori.
teko titanrev also use proton ori so why bother find others.

Shawie uses sports technology, single clutched Automated Manual Transmission box. The trouble is, the gearbox is literally a MANUAL gearbox, whereas there's another set of module running on a different hydraulic system to control the gears. The entire gearbox is a mixture of robotic science, the robot required it's robot oil, whereas the gearbox itself needed manual gear oil. Our local workshops, pour ATF into both gearbox and the robot. How to not damage our poor machines? In short, Shawie Auto is a mixture of AUTO + MANUAL. It utilized a robot to control a MANUAL gearbox. Driver can choose to put D and let the robot handle the gear changed, or choose M and do rally with +/- gear. It may sound like tiptronic/steptronic or whatever you wanna call the semi-auto mode is, but this is an entirely different design. It has a full manual clutch housing, operate exactly like a manual car. FC wise, probably better then any other 4AT dinosaur, because this is a 5 speed manual transmission box with a manual dry clutch controlled by a robot. For more information, go read Shawie tered

Put it this way, you have a manual car, but you choose to be lazy to drive a manual car. Now you put a robot in, let the robot drive the manual car. So, technically, you'll need to put Singer oil into the robot and let the robot function properly, whereas you'll still need manual transmission fluid for the manual transmission car.

By putting in ATF to the robot or the transmission will kill either 1 or the both of them. End of story.

On the side note, you're right about complication of any other transmission then a CVT. Infact CVT is 1 of the earliest designed of transmission in the history, where utilizes 2 different CONE shapped roller to modulate speed.



Even F1 banned this old technology, simply because it's so efficient that driver doesn't even need to decide when to change gear. Put this in real life situation with a MT GaGa/ AT GaGa and a CVT GaGa

MT
1) From straight line 190kph on 5th gear, around 7krpm heading to 100R corner.
2) At about 150meters before apex, you hit the brake hard, drop gear to 4th, then 3rd hitting about 6krpm at about 120kph
3) The car slowly taking traction hitting the apex with the same speed and gradually increasing speed around 130kph. You're about 6.5krpm now
4) After the apex, you're still on a right turn angle, but your speed already reaching 140kph, but RPM at redline 7200rpm.
Delima: Should I upshift during a corner? If I don't, I'll eat the rev limiter, or maintain speed at 140kph until safely get by the corner? What if I hit the clutch, suddenly the non-LSD gearbox gets a feedback from the outter left wheel, sent me into a spin, or right up to the moon?

AT
1) From straight line 190kph on 4th gear, around 6.8krpm heading to 100R corner.
2) At about 150meters before apex, you hit the brake hard, speed drastically dropped to 120kph but AT box sense torque from the road feedback higher then engine torque, so no gear drop. You're about 3krpm(dropped out of torque band yo!)
3) The car slowly taking traction hitting the apex, but definitely much slower then an MT now because dropped out of efficient torque band You managed to bring the speed up to about 130kph, at this time about 3.5krpm
4) After the apex, you're still on a right turn angle, but your speed is reaching 140kph, RPM at about 3.8krpm.
Delima: Should I go WOT or continue gradually increase speed by waiting the RPM kicked into efficient torque band? Either you hit WOT, sudden engine torque increment lead to downshift then the car go super understeer, or you continue to lag behind and wait until you hit the efficient torque band.

CVT
1) From straight line 190kph on D gear, around 6.5krpm heading to 100R corner.
2) At about 150meters before apex, you hit the brake hard, dropped to 120kph, 4krpm
3) The car slowly taking traction hitting the apex with the same speed and gradually increasing speed around 130kph. You're about 4~5krpm now depending on your tire efficiency/feedback
4) After the apex, you're still on a right turn angle, your speed reaching 140kph, RPM at around 4~5krpm depending on your tire efficiency/feedback.
5) You hit the gas pedal as you know your tire traction, despite it's screaming but you don't bother. WOT all the way. This time, you're over taking all the AT/MT GaGas beside you at 150kph and continuously increasing, your RPM still stays at 6krpm.
6) Exited corner at 160kph, RPM goes up from 6krpm further to 6.2krpm as DRIVEN pulley already maxed out at this point of time. By now, the MT GaGa is about 1.5 car distance behind, the AT GaGa is about 2 car distance behind.
7) Continue to increase speed. RPM stays around 6.5krpm until max speed attain.

I hope you see the difference from the above scenario.

before everyone here wants to go vroom vroom, our CVT is nowhere near the ones used in F1.

Ours are jerky, retarded, dim-witted and slow. Literally got 'PUNCHed'

Sifu..i need help..
My beloved saga starting to have problems after 10k service. Only 10 months old. Driver side always have sound when:
No. 1 I turn left on 90 degree junction slowly
No. 2 When i go up and down a bump
And my stering wheel is towards the left side when i drive straight but the car doesnt really sway to left or right when i drive.
Allignment is ok as and air tyre is sufficient as checked by proton qc.
Is this suspension problem, rack and pinion problem or something else?

sifu sifu sekalian, this type of damage roughly how much to repair yea?
veli sad now   

itu lagi sakit hati dowh.. cannot repair?
that thought crossed my mind also. if repair expensive, side skirt straightaway lo. ada lobang side skirt murah? 

For the underside kemek usually mudguard guy will drill a small hole then place a hook like metal rod and keep hantam pull out the kemek area then patch back the hole

Hi guys, it's been a while..how's everyone doing?

Drillz mali~ 

Drillz mali~ 

Everyone who had changed their rims mesti post their pics here. Post laaaa brader.

Looks good.

TE Volk Racing?

TE37 metal gun grey with lug nut wei. Nice man. 

Guys,I m stuck between CVT sv and CVT executive

What is the main difference between this 2 model?

Is saga worthbto buy as first car?

Thanks

15 inch would be good enough for most. Handling and fc would be reasonably ok, better than stock. Your wet driving should be improved too.
You can afford it go for exec, better specs.

If your everyday roads are bumpy, advise stick to stock. The stock is quite hard enough already.

not worthy. bai VIOS plis

Sit down and enjoy mah, don't feng tau inside my car 
Yup even with different artist sings, it was still great.

I do like listen many different genre of songs, enjoying their creativity.
Pioneer 80PRS, currently RM13xx for ori one if not mistaken.
16 band EQ, can be individual L/R, time alignment, capable for 2-way active with sub.
Was a SQ headunit.