I thought I was the one having a noisy throw out bearing....mine also having some sound when the clutch is not press. When I press the clutch the sound is gone.

How much lowered do you do? you need to increase the ARB links length.

Move the crank sensor and the sensing teeth out of the enclosed area. Like Wira

Wah, lowered until that much...can drive ka? I 1.5 fingers gap I also cannot tahan and increase to 2.

1 finger gap I can't imagine.

You need to increase the length of the end links and with such low clearance your ARB is already on load before it even flex.

I buy Vios also wont lowered until like that unless I can have endless supply of drive shaft, tie rod end, and LCA.

I have got information from Ftuned regarding this issue. For BLM/FL/FLX that are lowered your stock end links will move upwards in relation to the suspension and this moves the front ARB up and close to the chassis. So knocking will occur due to the ARB curve side as the end links was short. Stock saga end links are 220mm (size 13mm nut). Now I'm using Neo end links at 255~260mm (size 15mm nut). Please take note that you need to specify you need Neo end links as some shop will give you Waja end links. The Neo end links I got was Genuine Mitsubishi end links. Spare parts shop will have those normal one but I saw the quality was not very convincing.


And from my thinking the short end links will also have pre-loaded the ARB when the car is lowered so you need to remove that load from the ARB. Adjustable end links are useful if you corner weight the car but for our saga we can only do it on the front. Also on stock end links you are limiting the sweeping arc on the ARB. With longer end links the effective sweeping arc of the ARB will increase.

Hope this info helps to fellow gaga owners who lowered the car especially those very low riders.

This post has been edited by TitanRev: Apr 2 2015, 09:19 AM

The Neo end links are not that expensive.

The point here is the length of the end links. Waja end links are shorter.

Changing the end links are easy and can DIY but you need to jack the car up on both front wheels so that you take the load off the ARB.

Ya, fix at home ownself like me....hahahahahaha

Everything is good but car FC not that good coz the fpr changes the entire fuel curve. Now low to mid is a bit rich and high rpm is just nice. If I want to low to mid range Afr I will need ECU.

Sure very ganas car..

Like to share some info to follow saga owners. The front top mount consist of a friction bearing sandwich in between the top mounts and the upper spring seat.

Just to share with you all the friction bearing is from SKF France code BDA-1029(SKF designation is BDA-1029AE) It is a metal encased friction bearing
ID:65.5mm
OD: 100mm
Inner ring width: 19.75mm
Static Capacity: 29,000N

Didn't know Sban got such a famous bodykit shop

arvinaa, so the shop is in Sban town or?? wanna meet up with my rubbish car??

Oh mai god...viosaga....too much for me.

Glad that it help...will share more with you all when I found more things.

Hahaha my car slow bai..

Kenny kasi quote. Thank you and how many degrees.

Because I'm a slow driver..i respect road regulation and so many potholes in Malaysia road how to drive fast. Always training hand eye reflexes to aviod holes and bumps...

Steering not straight haiya just remove steering and drive the car at low speed in a straight road with no cars then cabut the steering off and readjust the spline and fit back steering...instant straight steering...kekekeke I do this if the steering just tilted 1 side...kekekekek

Funny, I have went to different tire shops and not a single shop tells me "Boss camber lari jor" when I do Alinemen ....must be my face not the waterfish type....

Back on topic, IMy alignment don't lari much even numerous track days, touge or half year I also don't do...not even do tire rotate. cause I see my 4 tire wear is all same one regardless I rotate or don't rotate...

Let me get my belt sander and stuff

You are welcome...bought it in bearing shop?