Metallic 350 is reasonable. Solid should be 200. Spray paint usually not expansive due to pricing availability and competitive. However, if talking about knock body/restore job, that is very subjective. You wouldn't know whether you pay cheap, the knock job will be good; neither will you know if you paid expansive the restore job is up on par. The only shop that I trust for knock job is in Kuala Pilah, but wouldn't go that far just for the heck of knocking out a small dent on my fender and bonnet Other than that 1, you may consider Satria(authorized Plotong SC) at 227

http://protonservicecentre.blogspot.com/

The last I got quoted to restore my bonnet+fender+solid white paint job for RM350 nia.

Previously discussed, for BLM/FL designed, the front and back is different setup. The front bearing is 1 piece design, the whole spindle is coupled in the bearing. The front bearing itself is already RM300ish. Whereas the rear bearing is flat tapper roller bearing, costing is much cheaper at the range of RM60~100 depending on brand/quality.

Viceversa for FLX, the front and back bearing are same type, both are 1 piece design. Be it front or back, is around RM300ish.

Labor charge for changing bearings for a front wheel drive car, usually the front is more expansive because it require to detached more driving related parts before can take out the bearing, whereas the rear has nothing there other than the braking equipment. For a rear wheel drive car, on average basis both front and back are equally expansive like a FWD front module changing bearing. And ofcourse, for a 4x4, both front and back bearing changing labor charge is averagely more expansive than FWD and RWD regardless because both front and back are related with driving/steering equipment.

On an unrelated note, please also check your tyre condition before jump into conclusion. Do not tell foreman what to change. They hate it much when customer behave xingalan and definitely will give you a piece. Walk in, be humble and tell them you hear humming noise. If the foreman gonna test drive your car, please politely insist you're following on the passenger seat. Tell them what you hear, when you hear, under what circumstances the noise will appear. Ask pricing after diagnostic, be sure if you think the price is outrages, tell them your concern and ask why. There's no way you argue with foreman because your life is on their hand, the bad 1 I've experienced, all they gotta do is purposely FORGOT to tie the locking pin, my bearing lock nut fly off and my Ganjil lose a wheel while driving There's absofuckinglutely no point to hide your financial weakness infront of foreman also, these foreman usually richfag and doesn't like customer walk in like a you're on a different category. If you feel the damn thing is over your current budget, just gradually tell them you're short of how much, discuss if there's alternative that will meet your budget whilst get things done.

If you're within Klang valley, highly recommend our very own nestum shop in Jalan Ipoh. 1 of the best tayar shop I've visited.

Go to passenger side, squat and hang the damn thing behind your shift console. That is the exact place where your aircond receiver withdraw air. The funky smell after rain are all due to wet carpet/moist in cabin, and receiver is the 1 taking all the air from the carpet and blow them right on your face! I myself being too lazy, just chuck it inside my glove box compartment

You preferred to breath moist air? No offense please, such small pack of charcoal weren't enough to dry up active flowing air at high speed. Unless you shut yourself in the cabin drive for 5 hours straight exposed under hot sun with all windows shut. At its best, that pack of charcoal will help to dry up certain area when the car is unoccupied.



Let's not forget, human body fluid is consistently releasing moisture to the atmosphere, your saliva, your smelly sweat, your nose discharge when you sneeze



If you're free enough, can read the PDF also. Even sleeping bag also they do research on how human moist will affect cigaoxin

Studies

Do you mean here? I was thinking to put that thing above the cabin filter.

A little update to share with you guys, I just changed one of my car's rear wheel bearing and of course no more humming noise.
Meanwhile I was at the SC, I asked my friend (my friend work at SC) to update the ECU firmware, but he updated the TCU firmware at the same time. My car is a Saga FLX CVT Executive. At first, the improvements are not noticeable when I drove out of the SC, but can notice a slight improvements on the throttle respond. However once I hit a traffic jam, I quickly notice the jerky of the car during low speed had significantly reduced to almost non, near to torque converter. I previously curse the CVT jerky-ness to death, but after this update, I start to love the car again. CVT users here, maybe you can have a try to update your ECU and TCU firmware.

Korek. Kat belakang sana, atas ECU mia tempat ada lobang sedut angin. Kat sana la paling best. Nak gantung freshener ke, perfume ke, smua bagui




Masok atas kabin filter? Camni ke?



The package too fat, won't fit Your's is FLX rite? The receiver door open from the right, correct? If FL/Shawie, even worst. Masok boley, but wanna take out that time... You'll probably scared the package get wrecked and drop those charcoal into the blower fan

p/s: If you rajin enough, can go buy those kopi filter, open up the daiso pack and fill it into the kopi filter make it smaller package then can fit in the cabin filter liao



This post has been edited by davidke20: Mar 8 2015, 11:11 AM

Thanks @davidke20 for the advise, much appreciated

I shall bring the car to check today, hopefully the shop is open.


Is it the same for BLM too ?

Is this your first time updating ecu?

There is an update some time back to solve the idle jerky issue. That was the only time i went to sc to update. After that has been bawah pokok service already.

This is the 2nd time i did the update. Well, one more year to go before i finish warranty and service bawah pokok. Try to claim everything within one year.

using it currently, not so smelly after pass by those garbage disposal area at the MRR2 there.

If you're referring to the aircond blower receiver intake, yes that's the same place both BLM/FLX draw air from. Which is also why if you have a passenger with yeti foot, your whole car smells like a rotten corpse because the aircond receiver draw air from that exact place where passenger place their feet

Nope it's not a design flaw. Not only our crappy Plotong GaGa, all other cars draw air from the lowest possible place in front of the car, for the reason of colder air is more dense, hence aircond design is always trying to draw colder air to maximize their cooling performance.

same.

no such issue for me at all.
wanfauzan poweredbydiscuz

Hi guys so I messed up a little,

My 2nd routine service was supposed to a little over 2 months ago, which I had conveniently forgotten about. I was only thinking about the first 10,000 km (I am now at 8,500 km).

Assuming that I will be penalized for this, what would be the best and worse case scenario?

Masuk SC, just say wanna service 10,000km.

Don't need to mention you overdue bla bla bla. Just act cool.

Ok gotcha

Dear all blm taiko..

Just change my engine gasket.. Plus the dunno what beneath it.. Seem like join to exhaust pipe..

Now my car Rev itself when idle.. Is it normal?? Will it kaa bomm??

Usually normal idle - it stay below 1k.. Now it always above 1k and move in between 1.5k and 2.2k.. Without air cond or radio turn on..

Need to reset ECU/recalibrate totobodi

Hai, would Wanna ask if I want to do major service and do CVT fluid change, is it necessary to go bak to proton? (Coz I read on Google, some people say only proton have some special tools to change that) if I don't want go proton, is it okay to go DTOX?


Attached thumbnail(s)

is it difficult to do? at first leaking go change gasket.. now this.. or i may ask the shop to do it for free??

U can reset your ecu by yourself. Remove ECU Fuse or unplug the battery terminal head.