Hi bro,

For double storey houses, 1st floor toilets water pressure is rather low because the water tank is only above the ceiling.

I heard people says that if we do not want to install pump, we can also by-pass the pipes by connecting direct to the incoming supply pipes.
By so doing, if syabas no water supply come, the toilets also no water?
Or will it automatically use water from the water tank?

Briefly, how is the modified connections like?

if u tap directly from supply then yes, when syabas out of water ur toilet also out of water
and no it will not automatically use water from tank
ill put up a diagram for u in a while



This post has been edited by ghuzzy: Feb 10 2015, 09:09 PM

yes ofcourse no water if u already disconnect the piping, however u can always "sambung" both piping together and use stop valve/tap to switch the water source.

Thats what exactly im planning to do for my house coz the main source pressure are too low for my shower.

here a better outlined diagram
but only one source of supply can be open at a time
if both open, u'll flood ur house


This post has been edited by ghuzzy: Feb 10 2015, 09:16 PM

If water in the tank left too long is going to promote bacteria and many more friends, even worse if mosquito have access

True also. Imagine if we use water from direct water meter, then our tangki water will be stagnent, and it will be there like forever.

Let say 1 yr later, when we wanna use, imagine the quality of it leh.

Better think twice before you do it. You get higher water pressure but it comes with disadvantages too such as:
1. High Chlorine content.
2. Internal/concealed in the wall PVC pipe will leak due to high water pressure over long period of time.(worse nightmare)
3. W/C stopper and hand bidet can't stand the water high pressure.

There were discussions on this topic here:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopic=3466279&hl

Install Water regulator outside main pipe (after meter) so high water pressure won't leak the inside pipe (due to high pressure), been using it for more than 10 years.

True also.
Whether install water pump, or connect thru direct pipe also will increase the pressure. But the fear is leaks at the conceal pipes.

3rd option is to install water heater c/w pump at each toilet.

Sorry to revive an old thread... What is the reason that the direct water supply will have higher chlorine content compared to water tank supply? Isn't it suppose the same as the water is from the same source?

Possible to install a regulator after the water inlet to control the water pressure before the supply goes into the house piping, i.e.: install a pressure regulator after the POE filter?

Just thinking how to increase my house water pressure without adding a pump, thinking to install a bypass before the inlet of the water tank to the outlet of the water tank. A check valve + control valve at the bypass piping and the outlet of the water tank will do the trick to avoid overflooding the water tank.

To avoid stagnant water, the supply to water tank will be closed every now and then by the stop cork feeding water to the tank to use up the water in the tank before refilling the water tank again.

Have not consulted any plumber yet... just some ideas after reading through some threads here



This post has been edited by lencent: Nov 26 2018, 10:52 PM

Chlorine in the water tank evaporated, so no more chlorine.
If you shower with direct water, you'll absorb the chlorine thru skin. Try do a chlorine test on water direct from the tap and another test after you soak your hand in the water for 1 min. I think there are some YouTube videos on this.

Yes,you can install pressure regulator or simply regulate it with the main control valve outside to prevent pressure built-up in the concealed piping but the problem is, the water pressure is only good for one water outlet at a time.

Best is to install water pump after water tank, you'll get two separate pressure source, i.e. you showering in the bathroom and your wife washing dishes in the kitchen or washing machine doing the laundry , no pressure drop, no sudden hot water scalding and most importantly no pressure built-up in the internal piping.

Thank you for the clarification and in-sight to using direct water source which I have not thought about.
Will have to think hard between the two options, water pump or direct water source...

Better don't mod to direct water. Chlorine causing hair thinning. Please Google keywords "chlorine hair loss"
Aquarium shop sells chlorine tester like RM2, give a try.

wow... a quick googling on chlorine effects on health show up quite a number of findings/ studies. Will take that into consideration. Thank you. : )

Install a booster pump is much easier solution, instead of reconnecting the pipe to the direct source.

Direct source pressure may be fluctuating as well, at night, pressure normally higher, which may premature result valve leaking issue, concealed pipe leaking (although this can be mitigated by pressure regulator, but installing mean extra money needs to fork out, not to mention pressure regulator does wear out over the time as well).
While for peak water usage time, like evening, pressure may drop due to many users open their tap.

Also, if direct source water pressure is too low time, you suffer low pressure as well.
While if install booster pump, you have no such an issue

So more cost effective and simple way is to install booster pump.

Summarise, 2 way to increase pressure

a) install booster pump, just minor work needed.

b) reconnecting to direct source that need to redesign/reconnect piping + pressure regulator, no guarantee to have good pressure if direct source pressure is poor.

There is another way to increase pressure slightly without installing a pump.
Enlarge the water tank outlet hole to 2" diameter pipe and use several reducer fittings to gradually step down to standard 1/2" before the concealed pipeline.

That’s rubbish honestly speaking.

Flow is related to pressure. Enlarging the diameter does nothing to increase flow.

I don’t buy the direct water causing leak thingy.
How often does the direct water source goes above 3.5 bar anyway?

I wouldn't say installing water pump is cost effective, it is expected to perform as required and the initial cost is high not to forget the follow up maintenance cost. It's a hassle-free solution for those who can afford.

Connecting to direct water source has it cons as highlighted, the sudden surge/ drop of water pressure is a concern for me, still thinking what could be done.

Good stuff never come cheap and cheap stuff does not do a good job, most of the time. Need to find a balance between the two and most importantly depends on how much left for the renovation budget

For future proofing, i planning to pull a power outlet to the water tank first in case a booster pump is necessary.

What cherroy said about morning peak hours is so true. Been there done that. Also, as new taman becomes fully occupied taman, water pressure in your taman will drop as well.