I just dismantled 42009 B-model halfway. No time to build A-model or others yet...

That's why I play Technics differently now. Always build the B-model first. Then dismantle and build A-model to keep. If can modify/enhance it, then add motor/etc.

My own Technics tips:
1) That brick separator is pretty much useless for studless. It's more for the standard lego studs sets.

2) To Push : Phillips screwdriver (test-pen). Either original Phillips, Stanley, or RM2 from pasar malam. This is mainly used to "push" those axles at the head/tail portion. I feel this is just a nice size and grip, with more than enough force. Hold the tip close to fingers, find your own rhythm, strength, and style. Much easier and stronger force than the puny brick separator. No scratch.

3) To Pull :
(i) Thin rubber grips. Any kind 10cm is enough. I use extras from my badminton overgrip.
This is the same grip I use to open those 1.5L carbonated drinks container. Sometimes it's pressurised so hard in order to open it.

(ii) Pliers : That's right. Wrap the item with thin rubber grip (1 or 2 layer), use plier to grip and pull. This can be done on any axle, but you must know how to grip using the plier to minimize damage. Assume the pliers grip top and bottom, you must grip X, not +.
X gives you 4x points of contact. + gives you only 2x points of contact.
Pliers must grip using the front teeth, not sideways.
For pins, it's easier to damage, unless you practise well with axles first.
Also, must not use pliers excessive force to grip and pull. Just enough inner force.
I did damaged a few pins and dented a few axles when starting. Now, I'm confident experienced when to use it without any damage/scratch/dent.

4) Push & Pull technique : basically combination of both #2 and #3 above. Sometimes you just can't push the entire axle out. So, push out quarter/half first. Then use the pull technique.

5) Pin : another pain in the sss finger. This one is easy, treat it as axle to push out.
The rest, just use the pull technique with thin rubber grip.

Edit: which part to grip ... the pin normally look like this from head/tail:
( )
grip both the top and bottom.
Don't grip left and right, the pin will damage easier.

There is a technique where you need a brick/liftarm with this "Utensil Space Gun / Torch ?" , so you plug the other side of pin-hole to "stop" it, and pull it out first. Then release this stopper by pulling out the pin. Then use pull technique above.

Don't know how to explain, I think there is some sort of video or other blogs/explanation on this. Some older technics manual has this as well.

Anyone who has tried dismantle 8110 front wheel hub-set will know the difficulty of the axle-2 (red)


6) Do not use pliers/test-pen as leverage or to skewer something. Metal vs plastic = metal wins. Use the useless brick separator as leverage.



This post has been edited by cute_boboi: Jan 20 2015, 06:25 PM

yeah, using axles and connectors to make a T-junction. Hard to grip, not easy to exert force also. Sometimes the axles look like want to bend/break.

Nice crane

Those are very old 9V train sets that you quoted.

Seems like every year, the City train set will come out with:
1x passenger train
1x cargo train (which is normally more expensive and bigger set)
1x train station.

Yes, passenger train set about RM400-550 +/-
Cargo train RM600-750 +
Train station RM150-250

You don't need to buy tracks Just keep buying every train set and you will get a lot of straight and curve tracks. The only one you need to buy, maybe 7895-switch. Or maybe 7996 splitter.
Cargo train set normally comes with switcher, so if you have 3x cargo train (or more), you may not need additional switcher anymore. 9V Crossroad 4519 already obsolete and expensive.

LOL B-model first, then A-model to keep I'm following this step as well.

Poison ...

M-motors


XL, L, M motors and IR-receiver since then, have added more XL and IR.

No lah, keep for own play I think one of the best model since it is full-RC for movement and also excavating.

Looks interesting, 40 pounds a pop not including shipping & tax

I buy and carry back sometimes. Recently bought from HK:
42038 artic truck @ HKD590 (~RM275) here selling RM380 ?
42039 race car @ HKD799 (~RM375) here selling RM430 ?

Other stuff I was searching in HK not really that cheap due to currency rate.

SG, pending carry back.
10242 mini cooper @ SGD129 (~RM347 according to current rate, but I'm holding SGD @ 2.55 previously = RM329) here selling RM400
42037 street motorcycle @ FREE got it as a gift few months ago. Should be about SGD70-80

HKD I'm actually holding at 0.41 also, rather than 0.46-0.47 (above calculation)

Courier I use it to buy additional parts only. Not full boxes. So it depends on individual and the hassle of bringing it back.

By bringing myself, I eliminate the trader's cost:
1) tax
2) shipping fees
3) time, transport cost to do this and run here and there.
3) add-on some profits

So, if you don't want the hassle, treat it as a cost of buying locally.

Some good bros do make group-buy on and off.

Go get it (somewhere) bro I was in HK last year when 10242 reached HK shore, but shop said is expensive at HKD1200 (~RM490 at that time) as it was courier-by-air into HK. He asked me to wait for courier-by-ship which will be 3 months later for the price to drop. So, if you like it, still can buy now. HK is selling around HKD750 (~RM350) now, not cheap due to currency rate, unless have extra from when it was lower at 0.41. Therefore I bought at SG which is nearer and slightly cheaper.

I'm using big hardcase luggage about 28" can fit entire boxes this time, since I bought 2x average size boxes only. Also a big foldable bag to dump all my clothes for the return trip.
Otherwise, unbox and flatten it into luggage as well. Pack all sets into bags. Like this

I'm no where near other tycoons here Just pursuing Lego hobby at my own pace ...

Yes, flight & hotel covered for biz trip. I did bought parts from overseas Bricklink and deal COD. Just inquire first to agree the specific date, time and location. That saves the postage + insurance, which as we all know is 10-30% depending on the amount of parts you buy

Welcome to Technics. You should get the Volvo 42030

Mindstorm ... that is even more than a few kiddie college funds

Either buy 9398 or 7938 for the IR and use as spare parts (or find the cheapest set with IR). Remote depends, you may re-use multiple. Or Bricklink, not cheap.
Actually I'm looking to buy couple more IR ... group-buy anyone ?

Wah, I didn't know locally got. But I bought XL at SGD25 each (conversion rate 2.5 at that time)

Another way also

Anyone in SG today/tomorrow, Metro having 20% member sale inclusive Lego

8043 excavator - retired/EOL few years ago. The price goes up to about 1.1k+ even then. I bought it earlier that than was about rm750+. Now not sure, expect rm1300-1500 ? IMHO, this is one of the best Technic sets (if not the best) in the past 5-6 years for its function and playability.
If money is not an issue and you want the best Technic set, I will highly recommend this over any other sets.

43020 - no such set. But if you mean 42030 Volvo, it's still in-stock and many sellers. Just do a keyword search.
IMHO, this still doesn't match up with 8043.

Sorry, no. I only have one set, already open and play with it, modifiy it (Jurgen's Ultimate 8043). Plan to keep this set.

Poison:
My modified Jurgen's version


Jurgen's video


Side note: Older 8043 versions have the LA problem, which Lego replaced for free. Newer 8043 (before EOL) already comes with newer LA (problem fixed).