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kizwan
post Jun 1 2021, 01:05 PM

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QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jun 1 2021, 10:59 AM)
Anyway... just sharing a new

user posted image

It is low tech, i put it outdoor undershade.
seems ok - but at a delicate balance on algea outbreak. been dosing Seachem Excel alternate day
*
What is the water temperature? Unless I go filterless, temp is a problem to me.
Clueless07
post Jun 1 2021, 01:12 PM

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din measure.... it is like around 30-32 i guess.
take note it is in the balcony.... it dont have direct sunlight- but is bright whole day round.

there is gradual algea built up on the glass- which i brush away.
some at the lava rock... mostly leave it there if not too severe
but the sand is gradually turning green if un-attended.
> regularly vacuum the ditrius (?) or the dirt away... it traps lots of them
> i had done one to take out all the sand and soak it in boiling water- to kill any algea ( and also benefical bacteria). if needed i could also replace the sand.

other observations.....
the pina tifida and java fern is doing alright there.
surpisingly Xmas moss also ok. ( i have another tank where it gradually turn brown.... it is with CO2!)
flame moss is gradually decaying and need to be removed.
kizwan
post Jun 1 2021, 01:13 PM

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QUOTE(jenhuei @ May 29 2021, 12:01 AM)
hi all, i m very new to this and have just got myself a Fluval Flex 57L tank.

I have been learning about aquascape and for the tank i will also include some guppies. Is there any place that i can learn more about substrate? I want to ensure the correct compound and are use.

Looking at 
- ADA Power Sand Advance (M size bottom layer)
- ADA Power Sand (small size top layer)

Will this combination be ok? Looking at the below kind of setup
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hYf2Xn82EJU&t=0s
*
I agree with them. Just go for soil. There's no need for the power sand. Down there at the bottom, there's not much oxygen for the bacteria to survive, unless it is denitrifying bacteria. I don't see any benefit at all. Also we don't need denitrifying media in planted tank anyway. Plants take ammonia (through root) or nitrate for nitrogen source. But plants do benefit from H2S that is created by anaerobic bacteria. So there's that. You can achieve this with soil alone. No need special & expensive sand. With 3 inch deep, you can get layer of aerobic & anaerobic area.

This post has been edited by kizwan: Jun 1 2021, 01:17 PM
kizwan
post Jun 1 2021, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jun 1 2021, 01:12 PM)
din measure.... it is like around 30-32 i guess.
take note it is in the balcony.... it dont have direct sunlight- but is bright whole day round.

there is gradual algea built up on the glass- which i brush away.
some at the lava rock... mostly leave it there if not too severe
but the sand is gradually turning green if un-attended.
> regularly vacuum the ditrius (?) or the dirt away... it traps lots of them
> i had done one to take out all the sand and soak it in boiling water- to kill any algea ( and also benefical bacteria). if needed i could also replace the sand.

other observations.....
the pina tifida and java fern is doing alright there.
surpisingly Xmas moss also ok. ( i have another tank where it gradually turn brown.... it is with CO2!)
flame moss is gradually decaying and need to be removed.
*
Maybe at outdoor, even exposed to the heat, water temperature did not rise too much. I had a bucket with hydrilla & water lettuce, outdoor, it doesn't matter when, the water never feels warm. While indoor, water can easily go up above 30C when it is a hot day. I'm using fans now to keep water temperature from going over 30C. I get red algae on my plants, including java fern when temp spiked a couple of months ago.

That is why I like to use fine gravel than sand. Easier to vacuum & clean IMO. Did you use the turkey baster or similar when vacuuming? I use dropper, tied on the syphon tube. Very handy when vacuuming all the detritus trapped under the soil.
OhNooy
post Jun 2 2021, 02:37 PM

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Most of the guide of ferts online are based on CO2 tank. My tank is non-CO2, shall I put all the macro & micro ferts as advised? Since the plant are growing slower due to non-CO2. Will it cause algae bloom? Any entry ferts recommended?
junsheng
post Jun 3 2021, 05:38 AM

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QUOTE(OhNooy @ Jun 2 2021, 02:37 PM)
Most of the guide of ferts online are based on CO2 tank. My tank is non-CO2, shall I put all the macro & micro ferts as advised? Since the plant are growing slower due to non-CO2. Will it cause algae bloom? Any entry ferts recommended?
*
just dose in smaller amount
OhNooy
post Jun 3 2021, 09:43 AM

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QUOTE(junsheng @ Jun 3 2021, 05:38 AM)
just dose in smaller amount
*
What kind of ferts would be recommended? I check Seachem product range is very confusing, am I supposed to get all? blink.gif
junsheng
post Jun 3 2021, 10:09 AM

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QUOTE(OhNooy @ Jun 3 2021, 09:43 AM)
What kind of ferts would be recommended? I check Seachem product range is very confusing, am I supposed to get all? blink.gif
*
NPK macro nutrients each bottle of nitrogen phosphorous potassium
micro nutrients in this case get the premixed traced

and you can like liquid carbon too, excel
which helps a lot time to time as alternative to co2
but some fish and plants are sensitive to it
only dose according to seachem instructions if you afraid of killing fish or melting plants

or get dry fert from shopee or lazada in their pure chemical form
and mix your own fert its much cheaper that way
for traced element get csm + b (to preserve this add a bit of seachem excel into this like 1ml per 500 ml)
https://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php

This post has been edited by junsheng: Jun 3 2021, 10:16 AM
kizwan
post Jun 3 2021, 11:49 AM

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QUOTE(OhNooy @ Jun 2 2021, 02:37 PM)
Most of the guide of ferts online are based on CO2 tank. My tank is non-CO2, shall I put all the macro & micro ferts as advised? Since the plant are growing slower due to non-CO2. Will it cause algae bloom? Any entry ferts recommended?
*
Just follow the recommended dosage. I have bombarded my tank with ferts. The worst thing happened to me is frequent trimming. You probably have high plant mass in your non-CO2 injection tank. So you should be fine using the recommended dosage on the bottle. Algae bloom occur when there is imbalanced of nutrients; between CO2, light & ferts.

You can follow the schedule that you can find online like the one from Seachem to schedule your micro & macro ferts. If you're using All-in-One fert like 12hr APT fert, you don't need to pump different kind of fert everyday.


Clueless07
post Jun 4 2021, 10:14 AM

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well... i struggle with fert too..
was using JBL macro and Fluval as micro

then change to APT complete... got overly excited and dose 2ml very alternate day to my 60cm tank as per recommendation.

BOOM! massive algea boom. all sort come out.... green spot, green dust, and even cyno which is damn nasty.....

try to rescue but it is too messy already. So end up strip the tank and replanted.

so i would suggest to go light... watch for sign of algea first before slowly ramp it up.
the plant had survive long before we dose fert anyway...

This post has been edited by Clueless07: Jun 4 2021, 10:15 AM
kizwan
post Jun 6 2021, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jun 4 2021, 10:14 AM)
well... i struggle with fert too..
was using JBL macro and Fluval as micro

then change to APT complete... got overly excited and dose 2ml very alternate day to my 60cm tank as per recommendation.
*
Why do you changed to APT? Did you not satisfied with JBL & Fluval or you just want to try different fert? I'm using Flourish for micro from the beginning. 500ml really last long though. Aquaforest AF Macro for macro but it only lasted 3 months & I have gone through two bottles. I just got dry fert for phosphate, KH2PO4 & already started using it last week. I just realized it is not enough for potassium. I may get potassium chloride or potassium sulfate for potassium.

Sometime we don't know we're lacking something even though we dose everything. Sometime something in the soil absorb nutrients such as phosphate or nitrate or any minerals which cause nutrient imbalance which in turn cause algae bloom.

I had stubborn cyno in one of my tank. I ended up adding fine sand on top of the existing soil about a little over one inch because I don't want to scoop all the soil out. It killed cyno completely & after 3 months, I removed the fine sand & re-plant. The cyno & BBA have absorb a lot of nutrients from the soil. My plant growth slow down & need to add ferts.

This post has been edited by kizwan: Jun 6 2021, 04:01 PM
Clueless07
post Jun 9 2021, 10:32 AM

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well.. for me is just trying new fert. i still struggle to get the hang of it.
and so been told the APT is all in one dont need to think too much- just need to beware and not over dose
kizwan
post Jun 9 2021, 07:30 PM

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Same here, I'm struggling as well. I have been reading Tom Barr's old posts to get a hang on it. I'm still struggling with my first tank. The plants growing but not doing well. I have reboot this tank recently but my dumbass (me) think it is good idea to stop fertilizer for two weeks. The plants was growing well. Now the plants look horrible. I need to buy iron fert, potassium sulfate & magnesium sulfate because I think water is too soft. Iron is for making the plant stronger, not for the water. Tank is filterless. Ammonia 0 ppm & nitrate between 10 to 20 ppm.

My 2nd tank pretty much stable but growth slow down. I think BGA bloom that I had in the tank for much of 2020, may have depleted the nutrient in the soil. The plants overall are healthy except java fern leaves are curling - the tip of the leaves point downward. I'm trying not to kill another java fern. Water temperature doesn't go beyond 30C because I have fans to cool the water down. This is "dirted" tank with internal filter. Ammonia 0 ppm & nitrate is 40 ppm. The sole reason I got KH2PO4 is to increase phosphate in this tank to bring down the nitrate. This is the tank I bombarded with macro before because it is showing phosphate deficiency. Iron is low too. The plants in the tank doesn't show deficiency but when I put hydrilla/anacharis, the new leaves show Iron deficiency. Maybe few bacopa caroliniana showing phosphate or Iron deficiency but I can't really tell. I already replaced the unhealthy with healthy plants. The healthy plants took off very well. Right now I'm dosing KH2PO4 everyday to help plant growth & bringing down the nitrate. Flourish is 3 times a week.

Both of my tanks have experienced algae bloom before dosing fertilizer. The only algae bloom that I got after dosing fertilizer is green water in first tank. That time I just started dosing Flourish & Nitrogen (thought it was low in nitrate).

This post has been edited by kizwan: Jun 9 2021, 07:32 PM
jenhuei
post Jun 11 2021, 09:53 PM

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Hi All. I have just finish up my setup and are currently 1 week into DSM on my Fluval Flex 57L.

user posted image

I am using ADA Amazonia normal type substrate with a layer of Seachem Black sand on top. It hit me suddenly that i might have problem with the water flow as the vent to filter media compartment is completely cover by soil. During the setting up I initially thought that water will be able to travel thru the porous soil however I am starting to seeing some issue,

user posted image

1. Will over time the Amazonia soil will become compact and the space between the soil will no longer be there hence blocking the flow of water?

2. In the event that water does manage to pass thru the soil, it will be constantly leaching amonia into the water that need to constantly travel thru the soil to reach the filter media?

Is this a cause for concern or is it not? If yes perhaps i need to start digging before i flood the tank.

Look forward to some advice from sifu here. notworthy.gif

frankzane
post Jun 12 2021, 01:31 AM

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QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jun 1 2021, 10:59 AM)
whoa... Fluval really bangsawan type of tank. Congrats and welcome to the new hobby.
am sure you will spend a lot of time and enjoy the process (and frusst at time)

Yup- as JunShen say.... just go for ADA soil- we dont really need power sand. ( as also bought it for my first aquarium..)
get a decent filter... if budget one - Dpphin, but the flow is really below what state in the box. so go for CF600 at least. Go Fluval if budget permit.

i have little luck on mini hair grass... tried for like 2 years still without much success... will rescape again and try again.
On the other hand, my MC been doing well
Anyway... just sharing a new

user posted image

It is low tech, i put it outdoor undershade.
seems ok - but at a delicate balance on algea outbreak. been dosing Seachem Excel alternate day
*
1. Why would you say Power Sand is unnecessary?

2. What is the dosage of Excel each time? Is it working?
kizwan
post Jun 12 2021, 02:40 PM

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QUOTE(frankzane @ Jun 12 2021, 01:31 AM)
1. Why would you say Power Sand is unnecessary?

2. What is the dosage of Excel each time? Is it working?
*
1. "ADA Power Sand contains both slow-release organic nutrients which are decomposed by bacteria into a form absorbable by aquatic plants and fast-release inorganic nutrients that are directly absorbed by aquatic plants to provide nutrients to aquatic plants effectively."

It is unnecessary because with soil alone can provide necessary nutrients that your plants need. You can go with cheaper alternatives like root tabs or osmocote.
K-o-E
post Jun 14 2021, 04:16 PM

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wow....reading from the posts makes me feel like a complete idiot among the experts notworthy.gif notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
tachlio
post Jun 14 2021, 09:43 PM

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QUOTE(kizwan @ Jun 12 2021, 02:40 PM)
1. "ADA Power Sand contains both slow-release organic nutrients which are decomposed by bacteria into a form absorbable by aquatic plants and fast-release inorganic nutrients that are directly absorbed by aquatic plants to provide nutrients to aquatic plants effectively."

It is unnecessary because with soil alone can provide necessary nutrients that your plants need. You can go with cheaper alternatives like root tabs or osmocote.
*
Mind to provide any proven root tabs or osmocote link? Prefer from Shopee
Clueless07
post Jun 15 2021, 10:48 AM

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i am looking for root tabs too...
so far i know ADA- selling like RM 5 each.
there is Tropica too... hard to find around here.

and there are other no brand one
https://shopee.com.my/Aquarium-Plant-Fish-S...ohoC9ksQAvD_BwE

though... really puzzled as thought the soil got nutrient, and the fertz is dosing regularly....
so when to put eh?

kizwan
post Jun 15 2021, 11:19 AM

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For proven root tabs, I think better go with branded like seachem, ADA, etc. I use this one no brand:-
https://shopee.com.my/product/40247096/2630...69-1623725970.9

I honestly don't see any difference with the stem plants that I have. Cryptocoryne wendtii red seems to like it, grow a lot healthier. I think heavy root feeder plants benefit a lot from root tabs like cryptocoryne, hairgrass, monte carlo, etc. I think stem plants prefer foliar than root when come to fertilizer.

I think I read somewhere some nutrients like iron depleted very quickly. ADA may last 1++ year. I know ISTA Premium Soil depleted less than a year. Maybe around 6 months with noticeable phosphorus deficiency. The compost organic soil that I use depleted some of the nutrients after 6 months but this most likely because of prolonged BBA & BGA blooming.

This post has been edited by kizwan: Jun 15 2021, 11:23 AM

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