Welcome Guest ( Log In | Register )

202 Pages « < 191 192 193 194 195 > » Bottom

Outline · [ Standard ] · Linear+

> Planted Aquarium V14

views
     
Clueless07
post Nov 3 2020, 11:14 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
632 posts

Joined: Oct 2012
if you do aquascaping- once you push and the tank move....everything will be disturbed. Rock wood plants... u tell me.
every single thing.

i could be wrong.... still new and learning here.

PS: why wanna bring to kitchen and toilet? the fishes eat and pop in the tank *wink
Blinklime
post Nov 3 2020, 10:12 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
75 posts

Joined: Aug 2013
From: Langkawi

QUOTE(brapa? @ Nov 3 2020, 12:10 PM)
I intend to get a 2' tank

I was thinking with rollers
I can push it to the kitchen / toilet
When cleaning
& can b flexible on locations in future
Its stainless steel too

I guess will have to check out the real item
Esp the rollers then

Oh i did consider lerberg too
The height shoulder level
I think is nice for viewing aquarium
*
sounds like an accident waiting to happen lol, plus moving a full/even half tank of water on rollers probably stressful for fish. imagine an earthquake. U might as well setup a tank on the counter top/island near the sink for easier accessibility. just avoid the stove / water soap splash.

n people do rescapes quite often in the hobby, can always move then haha.

Some Images
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


maintenance should be non hassle if your not overstocking, n not over feeding. proper water flow will lift up most of the detritus aka poop to masuk filter. i have a planted tank. top up water only.

What kind of fish u planing to stock? laugh.gif laugh.gif

QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Nov 3 2020, 12:14 PM)
if you do aquascaping- once you push and the tank move....everything will be disturbed. Rock wood plants... u tell me.
every single thing.

i could be wrong.... still new and learning here.

PS: why wanna bring to kitchen and toilet? the fishes eat and pop in the tank  *wink
*
this, plus major spills

a bucket will suffice lol. use a gravel vac or submerged pump(use pantyhose or netting to prevent fish entering) to suck out water for water changes.

brapa?
post Nov 4 2020, 12:58 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
149 posts

Joined: Mar 2015

QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Nov 3 2020, 11:14 AM)
if you do aquascaping- once you push and the tank move....everything will be disturbed. Rock wood plants... u tell me.
every single thing.

i could be wrong.... still new and learning here.

PS: why wanna bring to kitchen and toilet? the fishes eat and pop in the tank  *wink
*
i see
ok tx
something for me to think about
i was thinking whether it might b easier
for cleaning cycling things like dat
just hose into the wc biggrin.gif
also spills & mopping

QUOTE(Blinklime @ Nov 3 2020, 10:12 PM)
sounds like an accident waiting to happen lol, plus moving a full/even half tank of water on rollers probably stressful for fish. imagine an earthquake. U might as well setup a tank on the counter top/island near the sink for easier accessibility. just avoid the stove / water soap splash.

n people do rescapes quite often in the hobby, can always move then haha.

Some Images
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «


maintenance should be non hassle if your not overstocking, n not over feeding. proper water flow will lift up most of the detritus aka poop to masuk filter. i have a planted tank. top up water only.

What kind of fish u planing to stock?  laugh.gif  laugh.gif
this, plus major spills

a bucket will suffice lol. use a gravel vac or submerged pump(use pantyhose or netting to prevent fish entering) to suck out water for water changes.
*
i'm relieved to hear only top up needed
thats for purely plants only rite ?

what if with fishes eg zebras ?
will it make a big difference to the water quality
& cleaning frequency ?
i have shrimps too

i did think of using the island top
but if family visits for dinner
i will have to move it..
Blinklime
post Nov 4 2020, 02:21 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
75 posts

Joined: Aug 2013
From: Langkawi

QUOTE(brapa? @ Nov 4 2020, 01:58 AM)
i see
ok tx
something for me to think about
i was thinking whether it might b easier
for cleaning cycling things like dat
just hose into the wc  biggrin.gif
also spills & mopping
i'm relieved to hear only top up needed
thats for purely plants only rite ?

what if with fishes eg zebras ?
will it make a big difference to the water quality
& cleaning frequency ?
i have shrimps too

i did think of using the island top
but if family visits for dinner
i will have to move it..
*
first of all welcome to the hobby icon_idea.gif
ill be typing base on my experience.
before starting, best learn about the nitrogen cycle.
cleaning is a no brainier, for newly setup tank, better to do water changes weekly, 30%-50% range. ur new tank may not be able to fully convert all the ammonia n nitrates in the water. concentration to high, fatal.

read up on how to cycle a new tank.
the proven method is to use old filter media.
but since ur starting from zero, i can recommend seachem stability to establish a bacteria colony quickly tho it will take months to be fully develop. so slowly stock the tank. It worked for me but some others are not as fortunate. can always do the fish food/seafood method.
now why i only top up? no water change? cuz not much shit. bigger tank, less concentrated. but ofc, what works for me, may not work for you. everyone tank is diff, never 1=1. n i still recommended to do water changes to dilute all bad stuff in there. yes planted tnak. non planted tank, better get a sump or do big water changes.

yea long hose would work with a pump, doesn't have to be an overkill 1, just enough to push water for the distance/height. or use a bucket

i remember sometime ago, i think utuber mentioned 1 gallon to 2 inches of fish. u can add more like how most fish store do, just do more maintenance. i usually feed and starve my fish every other day. to control. or feed minimal amount daily.

water quality, if u add more fish, ofc will have more ammonia. snails and shrimp dont have much bioload, i dare say none lol in a planted tank situation.
cleaning frequency, depends on tank to tank. how are you feeding? are you dosing fertilizers or any other chemical? algae growth? dirty tank doesn't mean bad water. i regular maintenance is pruning the fast growers, glass algae scraping. substrate was originally black, cant see the poop anyway haha. i have a school of otocinclus and shrimp to help with the funky algae. crazy algae growth usually a sign of imbalance. feeding to much? too much light? co2? etc

ah u have shrimps, so u probably know about all this anyway. lol

it was relaxing for me to type this anyway. kelos



Clueless07
post Nov 4 2020, 02:57 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
632 posts

Joined: Oct 2012
QUOTE(Blinklime @ Nov 4 2020, 02:21 AM)

ah u have shrimps, so u probably know about all this anyway. lol[/b]
it was relaxing for me to type this anyway. kelos
*
Post the pic of your tank le...
share share for enjoyment
brapa?
post Nov 4 2020, 09:42 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
149 posts

Joined: Mar 2015

QUOTE(Blinklime @ Nov 4 2020, 02:21 AM)
first of all welcome to the hobby  icon_idea.gif
ill be typing base on my experience.
before starting, best learn about the nitrogen cycle.
cleaning is a no brainier, for newly setup tank, better to do water changes weekly, 30%-50% range. ur new tank may not be able to fully convert all the ammonia n nitrates in the water. concentration to high, fatal.

read up on how to cycle a new tank.
the proven method is to use old filter media.
but since ur starting from zero, i can recommend seachem stability to establish a bacteria colony quickly tho it will take months to be fully develop. so slowly stock the tank. It worked for me but some others are not as fortunate. can always do the fish food/seafood method.
now why i only top up? no water change? cuz not much shit. bigger tank, less concentrated. but ofc, what works for me, may not work for you. everyone tank is diff, never 1=1. n i still recommended to do water changes to dilute all bad stuff in there. yes planted tnak. non planted tank, better get a sump or do big water changes.

yea long hose would work with a pump, doesn't have to be an overkill 1, just enough to push water for the distance/height. or use a bucket

i remember sometime ago, i think utuber mentioned 1 gallon to 2 inches of fish. u can add more like how most fish store do, just do more maintenance. i usually feed and starve my fish every other day. to control. or feed minimal amount daily.

water quality, if u add more fish, ofc will have more ammonia.  snails and shrimp dont have much bioload, i dare say none lol in a planted tank situation.
cleaning frequency, depends on tank to tank. how are you feeding? are you dosing fertilizers or any other chemical? algae growth? dirty tank doesn't mean bad water. i regular maintenance is pruning the fast growers, glass algae scraping. substrate was originally black, cant see the poop anyway haha. i have a school of otocinclus and shrimp to help with the funky algae. crazy algae growth usually a sign of imbalance. feeding to much? too much light? co2? etc

ah u have shrimps, so u probably know about all this anyway. lol

it was relaxing for me to type this anyway. kelos
*
tx for yr generous sharing
lets say i start off
with moss & 3day old tap water
+ add old goldfish bowl water
1 weeks later only i add zebra
can omit seachem ?
manyak mahal oh
Blinklime
post Nov 4 2020, 10:06 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
75 posts

Joined: Aug 2013
From: Langkawi

QUOTE(brapa? @ Nov 4 2020, 09:42 PM)
tx for yr generous sharing
lets say i start off
with moss & 3day old tap water
+ add old goldfish bowl water
1 weeks later only i add zebra
can omit seachem ?
manyak mahal oh
*
if u will be using same tap water for the gold fish, should be fine. dont have to acclimate it. i would prefer ro water over tap (dechlorinated) water.
using old substrate, hardscape, sponges from ur other tanks would help with the cycle, but if u feed lightly, remove goldfish poop, do regular water changes, should be fine.
if really want to be on the safe size, check the water parameters.
the problems is most people get a small tank, stock a ton of fish, no maintenance and expect no death. lol.
seachem not necessary if ur going slow n steady but helps from my exp.

can always ask those fish store/farm boss. they probably have a more lazy method to jaga fish. haha
i know one that does 90% water changes every other day, 2 feet tank 100s of fish.
but what works for him may not work 4 u.

edit: bold

This post has been edited by Blinklime: Nov 4 2020, 10:07 PM
Clueless07
post Nov 5 2020, 02:09 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
632 posts

Joined: Oct 2012
too much water change is no good- i would not recommend to do 90% change every day or every week.

typical- we do 30% water change. if more changes needed- then we should do 2X or 3X per week.


you are considering seachem for what purpose eh?
if water conditioner.... then we would Tension Gon would be good.



equally important is the filtration system,- as in
A- need to have enough circulation flow.
B- sufficient media for beneficial bacteria- it will breakdown the waste to simpler substance, for the plant to adsorb


zyphron
post Nov 6 2020, 01:58 AM

Casual
***
Junior Member
414 posts

Joined: Oct 2008


Hi all.

Wanted to get some guidance as I'm starting my very first planted tank.

60x40x40cm 8mm Iwagumi tank with hair grass, Cuba and Monte carlo.

Questions :
I've already bought the tank, light and filter (Dophin Cf600).
Can advice on what should I get for the soil instead?
In my list right now:
ADA Bacter 100
ADA Power Sand
ADA Aqua Soil-Amazonia 9L as the base
ADA Amazonia Powder for the surface

Anything I missed out? Should I have a co2 system for my setup? Drystart or not?

Will like to get all the items required this weekend in 1 shot as CMCO right now. Don't want to travel Sana sini.
Clueless07
post Nov 6 2020, 08:53 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
632 posts

Joined: Oct 2012
QUOTE(zyphron @ Nov 6 2020, 01:58 AM)
Hi all.

Wanted to get some guidance as I'm starting my very first planted tank.

60x40x40cm 8mm Iwagumi tank with hair grass, Cuba and Monte carlo.

Questions :
I've already bought the tank, light and filter (Dophin Cf600).
Can advice on what should I get for the soil instead?
In my list right now:
ADA Bacter 100
ADA Power Sand
ADA Aqua Soil-Amazonia 9L as the base
ADA Amazonia Powder for the surface

Anything I missed out? Should I have a co2 system for my setup? Drystart or not?

Will like to get all the items required this weekend in 1 shot as CMCO right now. Don't want to travel Sana sini.
*
Welcome to the club!

1. yes ADA amazonia II is good.
2. i would not bother about power sand and bacter
power sand is mainly use for heavily planted tank. Bacter is to speed up bacteria growth. i would let the bacteria grow slowly (and save the rm 100). If you or ur friend have another tank, can get it from there .
3. CF 600 is good size, load it with filter media ( i mean those bio ring etc) as it dont come with it.
4. Glass lily pipe?
5 Tension gon
6 what rocks are you using? any picture which inspire you?
7 Yes COs is recommended . you seems serious then get the proper aluminium tank set, with soleniod.

8. fertilizer... may be later after a few weeks.

so do dry start, but i do you have patience for 2-3 weeks?





zyphron
post Nov 6 2020, 01:27 PM

Casual
***
Junior Member
414 posts

Joined: Oct 2008


QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Nov 6 2020, 08:53 AM)
Welcome to the club!

1.  yes ADA amazonia II is good.
2. i would not bother about power sand and bacter
    power sand is mainly use for heavily planted tank. Bacter is to speed up bacteria growth. i would let the bacteria grow slowly (and save the rm 100). If you or ur friend have another tank, can get it from there .
3. CF 600 is good size, load it with filter media ( i mean those bio ring etc) as it dont come with it.
4. Glass lily pipe? 
5 Tension gon
6 what rocks are you using? any picture which inspire you?
7 Yes COs is recommended . you seems serious then get the proper aluminium tank set, with soleniod.

8. fertilizer... may be later after a few weeks.

so do dry start, but i do you have patience for 2-3 weeks?
*
3. Yes, bought alot with filter media. just arrived from shopee.
4. Glass lily pipe, yes. will get this as well.
5.Tension gon. Ok, added to my list.
6. Finding for seiryu or similar looking stones. picture below
7. Can I use co2 tablet for the initial stage? What's the acceptable price range for new co2 set?
8. noted.

user posted image
user posted image
brapa?
post Nov 8 2020, 12:14 AM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
149 posts

Joined: Mar 2015

QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Nov 6 2020, 08:53 AM)

5 Tension gon


so do dry start, but i do you have patience for 2-3 weeks?
*
is tension gone for fishes only
or need for plant too ?

any supplements needed for shrimp ?
Clueless07
post Nov 8 2020, 12:34 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
632 posts

Joined: Oct 2012
Tension Gon is chlorine remover and water conditioner. If you do only plant- you still need some sort of chlorine remover. That is because you wanna avoid killing the bacteria. Bacteria populated at inside the soil, porous stones and mostly within filter media.

So one important note is never to washthe filter media with fresh water- the chlorine will kill those bacs. I rinse only with tank water during WC.

CO2 will be 200RM for proper Aluminium tank like UpAqua or Ista. There are cheaper version on those use fire extinguishers to convert.

Solenoid regulator also 200-300RM. There is this Mufan about 150RM, can consider la.

Diffuser- if got budget then get Neo- about RM100. There are other types, like those UFO style also ok ( but larger and not so refined. )

Check valve and bubble counter another RM30.

Each tank can last about 3-6months. Refill cost Rm13 for 1 liter tank.

I try to upload some photo- but always show file too large.

This post has been edited by Clueless07: Nov 8 2020, 12:35 PM
brapa?
post Nov 10 2020, 10:11 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
149 posts

Joined: Mar 2015

guys
what do u all do if not at home
for 1-2 weeks ?
put shrimp at shrimp hotel ?
Clueless07
post Nov 11 2020, 10:34 AM

On my way
****
Senior Member
632 posts

Joined: Oct 2012
no.. not really
we dont send to shirmp hotel.

typically got 2 way-
a- we get a portable tank and bring the shrimp with us.
b- 2 days before we leave, we bring to local favorite restaurant - my favorite is drunken prawn, or course someother like butter style as well. if wanna halal one- you may try the tomyam shop

brapa?
post Nov 11 2020, 11:19 PM

Getting Started
**
Junior Member
149 posts

Joined: Mar 2015

QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Nov 11 2020, 10:34 AM)
no.. not really
we dont send to shirmp hotel.

typically got 2 way-
a- we get a portable tank and bring the shrimp with us.
b- 2 days before we leave, we bring to local favorite restaurant - my favorite is drunken prawn, or course someother like butter style as well. if wanna halal one- you may try the tomyam shop
*
biggrin.gif
i just started shrimping
didnt feed them anything
just leave them eat algae forever
should b ok right ?
QBeck37
post Nov 12 2020, 02:54 AM

New Member
*
Junior Member
49 posts

Joined: Jun 2020
From: Malaysia


QUOTE(weijie @ Aug 24 2013, 03:26 PM)
Types of Filtration:
Mechanical Filtration: This type of filtration is used to remove suspended dirt, floating particles and debris from the water column. This type of filtration is achieved by foam, sponge, fiber mesh and similar fine meshed media. Below is an example of a Mechanical Filter Media from an Eheim Canister Filter.
user posted image

Biological Filtration: This is the main type of filtration that is required for any aquarium. This mainly consists of media like Ceramic Rings, Bio Balls, Lava Rocks, etc, essentially media which is highly porous which provides a large surface area. Lot of essential bacteria like nitrifying bacteria and microorganisms thrive and multiply in this type of media and the high surface area provided by this type of media directly results in the amount of bacteria that colonize in your filter. These bacteria are found in the tank and form a film over every surface inside the aquarium and are referred to as “Bio Film” but the quantity of this in the tank is not enough. Hence we use Biological Media in the filter to provide a good growing area for these bacteria. These bacteria convert harmful shrimp waste which is essentially ammonia into harmless nitrates which is readily absorbed by the plants as nutrients. Without the biological filtration in place the shrimp waste spoils the water quality and the flora and fauna suffer which also leads to death. This type of media should ideally form 80% of the entire media used in the filter.
user posted image

There are commercially available products that have dormant essential bacteria that become active when you add them to your tank. It usually comes in a powder form and can be used underneath the substrate, sprinkled inside your tank and on the biological filter media. This will jump start your Tank cycling process. This can also be used in case you end up wiping out the essential bacteria in your setup for any reason. Some examples of these products are ADA Bacter 100, ADA Bacter Ball, Mosura Bio Plus etc. There is also biological filtration media which come seeded with the essential bacteria like ADA Bio Rio which also reduces your tank cycling time and also has excellent surface area for your bacteria to colonize. To know if you’re nitrifying bacteria and other essential bacteria are doing well, you can use an ammonia/nitrite test kit. These should ideally be zero.Below is a picture of ceramic rings.
Chemical Filtration: This type of filter is used to remove harmful chemicals from the water in the tank. Activated Carbon is what is used to act as a chemical filter. The life of activated carbon is 7 – 14 days based on the quality. After which it needs to be replaced if required. External Canister Filters come with an Activated Carbon Pad as a part of the filter media. Once a tank is cycled, you really don’t need to have this media in your filter unless you suspect that there are some harmful chemicals in the water. It is good to keep this media handy with you, in case for any reason if some harmful chemicals do get introduced to your tank through the tap water or other sources you can use this media in your filter to nullify the effect of those chemicals on your shrimps. Below is a picture of Activated Carbon
user posted image

Common types of mechanical filter
External Canister Filters: These are the best type of filters for planted aquarium. They have a large media chamber which can be effectively used for housing a large amount of Biological Media. They sit outside the tank and hence make the tank look clutter free. Have a smooth and silent operation. Eheim Filters are one of the best External Canister Filters available in the market. Below is a picture of an Eheim Classic Canister Filter and the ideal way to layer media in the canister filter.
user posted imageuser posted image

Hang On Back Filter: Also called as HOB’s, these filters are hung on the edge of the glass, there is a pipe which goes into the aquarium and is used to siphon the water out into the main filtration chamber which sits outside the aquarium and flows back into the aquarium through an outlet. These come in various filter capacity referred to as LPH (Liters per Hour). These are ideal for small tanks. You can put some Biological Filtration Media in the chamber, but the space is very limited.
user posted image

Sponge Filter: This type of filter is the most commonly used filters, this filter is placed completely inside an Aquarium and is air driven by an aerator. The main component of these filters is a sponge which acts as a mechanical filter and this works well as a biological filter as well. These again come in various sizes and you should choose one based on your tank capacity.
user posted image

Under Gravel Filter: Also commonly known as UG Filter. This consists of a base plate with grooves, The substrate is covered over the base plate. There is a pipe which goes into the base plate and this is the one which is visible above the surface. This filter as the sponge filter is a air driven filter. The essential bacteria colonization happens in the base plate. Some professional breeders use this in conjunction with the External Canister Filter, where the pipe coming from the base plate is connected to the intake of the canister filter. When you are using UG Filter ensure that you use a substrate that does not easily break down, as this will get into the grooves of the base plate and eventually end up clogging it.

Cleaning Your Filter:
Yes, there is a right way to do this. Your filter is constantly removing debris and muck from your tank and all this is getting accumulated in the filtration media in your filter. This accumulation reduces the filters flow rate and hence its effectiveness. Ensure that you clean your filter media when you see your filter flow rate has reduced.

Take some water from the aquarium in a vessel or tub, rinse and squeeze the dirt out from the mechanical filter media in this tub. For the biological filter media like your ceramic rings, bio balls etc, what i usually do is put them in a wide mesh net bag so that they can be easily removed for filter maintenance. Just dip the bag with the filter media a couple of times in the tub to remove large pieces of dirt and debris. Do not give a thorough wash for this media, the concept is simple, if you give it a good wash you will end up wiping away the majority of your bacteria along with it and it takes time for the biological filter to establish again. Another thing that i do is always after a filter is cleaned, i put in some artificial bacteria like ADA Bacter 100 into the filter chamber itself in the cases of Canister and HOB, In cases of other filters i just put this into the tank itself to replenish lost bacteria.

Thanks to ShrimpNow !!!
*
Thank you for some good advice.
Clueless07
post Nov 12 2020, 07:05 PM

On my way
****
Senior Member
632 posts

Joined: Oct 2012
QUOTE(brapa? @ Nov 11 2020, 11:19 PM)
biggrin.gif
i just started shrimping
didnt feed them anything
just leave them eat algae forever
should b ok right ?
*
Yeah no issue. They will feed w anything , so should not die
tachlio
post Nov 12 2020, 09:28 PM

de~sign "ing"
*******
Senior Member
3,041 posts

Joined: May 2005
From: Penang *̡͌l̡*̡̡
QUOTE(brapa? @ Nov 11 2020, 11:19 PM)
biggrin.gif
i just started shrimping
didnt feed them anything
just leave them eat algae forever
should b ok right ?
*
If you like to see more babies, feed them once or twice per week...
Shrimp food really cheap, even you can feed some Mulberry leaf(桑叶) if your area someone plant it...
user posted image

This post has been edited by tachlio: Nov 12 2020, 10:10 PM
tachlio
post Nov 12 2020, 10:08 PM

de~sign "ing"
*******
Senior Member
3,041 posts

Joined: May 2005
From: Penang *̡͌l̡*̡̡
Got another free same tank as current setup. (10g tank)
Current tank is Fire Red NeoCaridina + Co2 setup.

Just bought Chihiros RGB A-Plus A601 to upgrade the lighting and will sharing across two tank.

So, now my question is Co2 sharing, as I already having regulator with solenoid and don't like to get another Co2 tank system.
Any one try using splitting via Aquarium Multi CO2 Needle Valve

Setup condition>>
Attached Image

This post has been edited by tachlio: Nov 12 2020, 10:08 PM

202 Pages « < 191 192 193 194 195 > » Top
 

Change to:
| Lo-Fi Version
0.0340sec    0.27    6 queries    GZIP Disabled
Time is now: 26th February 2021 - 05:58 AM