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flumx91
post Jul 1 2019, 08:41 AM

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QUOTE(junsheng @ Jun 30 2019, 06:19 AM)
NPK & micro nutrients
available in dry and premix form, dry is cheaper harder as it involve calculation
premix is easier

refer to here for dosing guide http://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php
*
Thanks for the help. As my java moss seems to be pale green compared to flame moss, that's why I want to try use fert incase it could help.
kuaika P
post Jul 2 2019, 01:46 PM

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Joined: Jul 2019


Anybody know where i can get Thai micro crab? Penang or Malaysia.
Clueless07
post Jul 10 2019, 08:49 AM

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Joined: Oct 2012
Hi guys....bum into the beta fish thread at /k, then trigger my interest and decided to take up this hobby.
Hope to get some advice from the sifus here.

Intend to convert my existing dull 2’ tank into Iwagumi style planted tank.

user posted image

Currently there are like 8 small fishes, inclusive of 4 tetra.
Intend to move it to this vase for 2 to 3 weeks w the plant and hope they survive during the renovation duration.

user posted image

Then collected some stones from near by area - had just wash it an currently soaking w tap water.

FYI.... there are already few similar rocks inside the aquarium set up a year a go.

user posted image


being doing research the last week or so, intend to go for Iwagumi style with a school of tetra and perhaps a few prawn if condition permits.
a few rocks, with hair grass, and some MC on an island.

Equipment list....
1- Tank 2 feet- old
2- filter- external hang on filter, i think Dolphin- old
3- light - intend to purchase new.
4- substrate/soil- intend to go for ADA amazonia.
5- CO2 tank- seems like no choice with above set up?

anything i missing out?
any fertiliser needed?

do guide me along the way.
how about test kit? pH? ammonia, nitrates?

This post has been edited by Clueless07: Jul 10 2019, 09:18 AM
junsheng
post Jul 11 2019, 09:42 AM

---> pokemon ftw <---
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Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,234

Joined: Apr 2011
From: Penang Malaysia, sometime KL


QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jul 10 2019, 08:49 AM)
Hi guys....bum into the beta fish thread at /k, then trigger my interest and decided to take up this hobby.
Hope to get some advice from the sifus here.

Intend to convert my existing dull 2’ tank into Iwagumi style planted tank.

user posted image

Currently there are like 8 small fishes, inclusive of 4 tetra.
Intend to move it to this vase for 2 to 3 weeks w the plant and hope they survive during the renovation duration.

user posted image

Then collected some stones from near by area - had just wash it an currently soaking w tap water.

FYI.... there are already few similar rocks inside the aquarium set up a year a go.

user posted image
being doing research the last week or so, intend to go for Iwagumi style with a school of tetra and perhaps a few prawn if condition permits.
a few rocks, with hair grass, and some MC on an island.

Equipment list....
1- Tank 2 feet- old
2- filter- external hang on filter, i think Dolphin- old
3- light - intend to purchase new.
4- substrate/soil- intend to go for ADA amazonia.
5- CO2 tank- seems like no choice with above set up?

anything i missing out?
any fertiliser needed?

do guide me along the way.
how about test kit? pH? ammonia, nitrates?
*
not sure if u miss out anything but i will slightly guide u on the things u mention

1. if u decided 2 get new tank, get new crystal clear tank, factory made where the silicon glue finishing is not ugly
if u used old tank and to clean out limescale with product like mister muscle limescale removal, use toothbrush
avoid scrub with sponge which will cause scratch if there are fine sand / dust


2. the filter is fine but make sure it doesn't agitate the water surface too much which will cause u to waste CO2
but little water surface movement is also required for gas exchanges, ur fish nid to breathe

3. light for planted tank is quite a investment, and if u let your light on for 8 hours a day, u nid to change out after 3-4 years even it is LED
finnex, wave point, viv brand etc their LED lifespans is not gud u will see they start to wear out in the 2-3 years (light is not bright as last time)
fluval, eheim, twinstar etc their LED can last 3-4 years but driver die fast due to heat, hard to order the parts in malaysia
gud 1 like ADA & kessil will burn holes in ur wallet

i have tried mani brand, in the end i was convinced by ujelly to use cheap philips / orsam bulb, many brand are cheating consumers using the full spectrum marketing
which had not much effect compare to light intensity PAR, generally philips CFL which last 2 years or LED 3-4 years tat which produce 1300 lumens give 80 PAR at 13 inch height sufficient to grow HC
their spectrum is gud can match reputable brand like twinstar, then pair those with ikea fixture like desk lamp which can adjust height for adjusting the intensity
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/tertial-work-l...-grey-40450802/
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/hektar-pendant...-grey-80390359/

4. make sure you have plenty of soil, at least 1 inch thick
if you decide to buy caridina shrimp like crs or cbs then ADA soil is not gud, you will need shrimps soil tat debuff the water as they r very sensitive
if neocaridina like cherry shrimps or malayan shrimp or malaysian (banana) shrimp then you can go with ADA soil, there are caridina shrimp that is hardy too like amano & yamato
GH & KH is a consideration if u want shrimp, get a mesh bag of crush coral & lime stone (natural way) still need GH booster to dose in small amount time to time,
put it in your filter or under the soil to help your shrimp mold, filter is the best; but u cannot do that with caridina shrimps as they are very sensitive to water chemistry,
where you need to bus GH KH booster with test kit to ensure the correct of GH & KH parameter, including PH and nitrate test kit not those cheap type but the one tat roughly tell you the numbers

5. make sure you get a atomizer there are two kind one is inline used with canister filter and in tank which mean in aquarium tank, not the very cheap diffuser that produce big bubble

6. fertiliser is a must, for planted tank you can get it is liquid (expensive) or dry (cheaper) form
nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are the general name
just search their chemical name like KNO3 gives N+K+NO3(nitrate) / K2SO4 gives K+S(sulfur) / KH2PO4 gives K+P+PO4(phosphate) u can get other chemical form tat gives NPK too
and micro nutrients like CSM+B or microplex note this part overdose will kill fish & mostly shrimps all kinds instantly bcauz of copper & iron just dose carefully
last additional iron, DTPA or EDTA (FE) chelated iron this is to enhance red leaves plants, not to be mistaken that it will cause green leave plant to turn red as those are done by nutrient limiting factor,
it just make the red leave more vivid red, which i don't think u nid this since u don't have any red leaves plant

dry form macro & micro nutrients can be brought in facebook, lazada or shopee or even some aquarium shop they do sell those
use this calculator as a guide on how to mix or dosing http://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php
u can buy baking measurement teaspoon & liquid measurement cup ikea/tesco/ or baking shop etc for mixing into liquid form and syringe in guardian or watson for dosing
mix all with liquid separately store in their own bottle is cool dark place, mix in small batch like 500 ml bottle and dose in small syringe measurement dose like 5ml

since u r doing iwagumi suggest u to use estimative index dosing, dose twice per week for each macro & micro nutrients
if u decided to get premade liquid form, the web calculate will teach u to dose how much too

daydose
monNPK
tuesCSM+B
wedrest
thrNPK
friCSM+B
satrest
sunwater change 25% or 50%

if u r fairly new suggest u to do dry start method of planting monte carlo, you can guugle youtube video to get the general idea
the trick is to let the water VERY slightly below soil put a plastic food wrap over with few holes or small gap for breathing and 12 hours or more of lights
for few months or until desirable result, then submerge everything, reduce lighting hours, put many many co2 for first 2 -3 weeks then reduce the co2 and stock fish

in the end u will end up something like this, my tank photo
user posted image

This post has been edited by junsheng: Jul 11 2019, 09:52 AM
junsheng
post Jul 11 2019, 10:03 AM

---> pokemon ftw <---
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,234

Joined: Apr 2011
From: Penang Malaysia, sometime KL


QUOTE(kuaika @ Jul 2 2019, 01:46 PM)
Anybody know where i can get Thai micro crab? Penang or Malaysia.
*
atria mall pet shop, they got sell many kind of crabs,
but not always got stock
victorsoo
post Jul 11 2019, 11:23 AM

New Member
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Group: Junior Member
Posts: 46

Joined: Oct 2013


QUOTE(junsheng @ Jul 11 2019, 09:42 AM)
not sure if u miss out anything but i will slightly guide u on the things u mention

3. light for planted tank is quite a investment, and if u let your light on for 8 hours a day, u nid to change out after 3-4 years even it is LED
finnex, wave point, viv brand etc their LED lifespans is not gud u will see they start to wear out in the 2-3 years (light is not bright as last time)
fluval, eheim, twinstar etc their LED can last 3-4 years but driver die fast due to heat, hard to order the parts in malaysia
gud 1 like ADA & kessil will burn holes in ur wallet

i have tried mani brand, in the end i was convinced by ujelly to use cheap philips / orsam bulb, many brand are cheating consumers using the full spectrum marketing
which had not much effect compare to light intensity PAR, generally philips CFL which last 2 years or LED 3-4 years tat which produce 1300 lumens give 80 PAR at 13 inch height sufficient to grow HC
their spectrum is gud can match reputable brand like twinstar, then pair those with ikea fixture like desk lamp which can adjust height for adjusting the intensity
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/tertial-work-l...-grey-40450802/
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/hektar-pendant...-grey-80390359/

*
Hi bro. I'm interested to know how is your lighting setup using those CFL bulbs. Possible for you to share any photos of your lighting setup? hmm.gif

Many LFS I see also still using fluorescent tube over their tanks and their plants also growing well so I did wonder before if it was necessary to spend so much on those expensive LED light. Like you said, might be marketing gimmick only.
Clueless07
post Jul 11 2019, 12:01 PM

On my way
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Group: Senior Member
Posts: 589

Joined: Oct 2012
QUOTE(junsheng @ Jul 11 2019, 09:42 AM)
not sure if u miss out anything but i will slightly guide u on the things u mention

1. if u decided 2 get new tank, get new crystal clear tank, factory made where the silicon glue finishing is not ugly
if u used old tank and to clean out limescale with product like mister muscle limescale removal, use toothbrush
avoid scrub with sponge which will cause scratch if there are fine sand / dust


2. the filter is fine but make sure it doesn't agitate the water surface too much which will cause u to waste CO2
but little water surface movement is also required for gas exchanges, ur fish nid to breathe

3. light for planted tank is quite a investment, and if u let your light on for 8 hours a day, u nid to change out after 3-4 years even it is LED
finnex, wave point, viv brand etc their LED lifespans is not gud u will see they start to wear out in the 2-3 years (light is not bright as last time)
fluval, eheim, twinstar etc their LED can last 3-4 years but driver die fast due to heat, hard to order the parts in malaysia
gud 1 like ADA & kessil will burn holes in ur wallet

i have tried mani brand, in the end i was convinced by ujelly to use cheap philips / orsam bulb, many brand are cheating consumers using the full spectrum marketing
which had not much effect compare to light intensity PAR, generally philips CFL which last 2 years or LED 3-4 years tat which produce 1300 lumens give 80 PAR at 13 inch height sufficient to grow HC
their spectrum is gud can match reputable brand like twinstar, then pair those with ikea fixture like desk lamp which can adjust height for adjusting the intensity
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/tertial-work-l...-grey-40450802/
https://www.ikea.com/my/en/p/hektar-pendant...-grey-80390359/

4. make sure you have plenty of soil, at least 1 inch thick
if you decide to buy caridina shrimp like crs or cbs then ADA soil is not gud, you will need shrimps soil tat debuff the water as they r very sensitive
if neocaridina like cherry shrimps or malayan shrimp or malaysian (banana) shrimp then you can go with ADA soil, there are caridina shrimp that is hardy too like amano & yamato
GH & KH is a consideration if u want shrimp, get a mesh bag of crush coral & lime stone (natural way) still need GH booster to dose in small amount time to time,
put it in your filter or under the soil to help your shrimp mold, filter is the best; but u cannot do that with caridina shrimps as they are very sensitive to water chemistry,
where you need to bus GH KH booster with test kit to ensure the correct of GH & KH parameter, including PH and nitrate test kit not those cheap type but the one tat roughly tell you the numbers

5. make sure you get a atomizer there are two kind one is inline used with canister filter and in tank which mean in aquarium tank, not the very cheap diffuser that produce big bubble

6. fertiliser is a must, for planted tank you can get it is liquid (expensive) or dry (cheaper) form
nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K) are the general name
just search their chemical name like KNO3 gives N+K+NO3(nitrate) / K2SO4 gives K+S(sulfur) / KH2PO4 gives K+P+PO4(phosphate) u can get other chemical form tat gives NPK too
and micro nutrients like CSM+B or microplex note this part overdose will kill fish & mostly shrimps all kinds instantly bcauz of copper & iron just dose carefully
last additional iron, DTPA or EDTA (FE) chelated iron this is to enhance red leaves plants, not to be mistaken that it will cause green leave plant to turn red as those are done by nutrient limiting factor,
it just make the red leave more vivid red, which i don't think u nid this since u don't have any red leaves plant

dry form macro & micro nutrients can be brought in facebook, lazada or shopee or even some aquarium shop they do sell those
use this calculator as a guide on how to mix or dosing http://rotalabutterfly.com/nutrient-calculator.php
u can buy baking measurement teaspoon & liquid measurement cup ikea/tesco/ or baking shop etc for mixing into liquid form and syringe in guardian or watson for dosing
mix all with liquid separately store in their own bottle is cool dark place, mix in small batch like 500 ml bottle and dose in small syringe measurement dose like 5ml

since u r doing iwagumi suggest u to use estimative index dosing, dose twice per week for each macro & micro nutrients
if u decided to get premade liquid form, the web calculate will teach u to dose how much too

daydose
monNPK
tuesCSM+B
wedrest
thrNPK
friCSM+B
satrest
sunwater change 25% or 50%

if u r fairly new suggest u to do dry start method of planting monte carlo, you can guugle youtube video to get the general idea
the trick is to let the water VERY slightly below soil put a plastic food wrap over with few holes or small gap for breathing and 12 hours or more of lights
for few months or until desirable result, then submerge everything, reduce lighting hours, put many many co2 for first 2 -3 weeks then reduce the co2 and stock fish 

in the end u will end up something like this, my tank photo
user posted image
*
Thanks for your neat n comprehensive advice.
And your tank looks very good.

1. Yeah tank- using my old tank more than 10 years old. Not gonna buy a new tank for now.
Noted on the lime scale. So much build up and much scrTches already.
Might buy a new tank later.

2 I tend to agree the light is very much a gimmic. LED is so cheap these days-not so sure about the best K value then. The trick is to get a good mounting/holder.

3 noted on th soil.

Will visit Aquascape to get the soil, and more advice. May be the light too and few other accessories including ferts


Now.... is CO2 is a must for hair grass to grow well? It is quite an investment. Tablets or solution won’t give good result right?

And any advice to cycle th tank? Says I intend to flood it after planting. Keep a portion of the water of current tank?
I got a RO filter at home- should I use a portion of it to mix up in reducing mineral loading?
Tap water is 350ppm and after filter is around 20.

This post has been edited by Clueless07: Jul 11 2019, 12:37 PM
junsheng
post Jul 11 2019, 07:44 PM

---> pokemon ftw <---
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,234

Joined: Apr 2011
From: Penang Malaysia, sometime KL


QUOTE(victorsoo @ Jul 11 2019, 11:23 AM)
Hi bro. I'm interested to know how is your lighting setup using those CFL bulbs. Possible for you to share any photos of your lighting setup?  hmm.gif

Many LFS I see also still using fluorescent tube over their tanks and their plants also growing well so I did wonder before if it was necessary to spend so much on those expensive LED light. Like you said, might be marketing gimmick only.
*
this photo is not my tank but it look like this, for the small tank, i'm not using CFL but LED bulbs, mainly bcauz of the heat
to adjust the light intensity by adjusting the height
user posted image

well it is not really marketing gimmick, but half truth, it is true tat plant absorb blue & red end of the spectrum better thn green
but wat they didn't tell u is blue & red spectrum does not penetrate well, brand like twinstar & kessil does have optical 2 help the light penetrate
thn they also didn't tell u how much light (PAR) reach the substrate, like green light spectrum with 1300 lumen light bulb generally at 13 inch height gives 70-80 par
where blue & red does not and how much PAR it gives at 13 inch height they didn't tell, unless u buy a par meter to measure which is very expensive

thn it is not like normal CFL & led bulb does not have blue & red spectrum, they do have it
like a 3000k bulb have higher red spectrum 6000k bulb have higher blue spectrum

then having a gud light doesn't mean success, bcauz u still have other variables to look into like CO2 & nutrients
example HC plant in nature only need 60 par of light and 30 ppm of CO2 to grow well
if you were to increase to 120 par of light then 30 ppm of CO2 is not going to be sufficient
then u still haven't count in water circulation (flow of nutrients), temperature (at higher temp gas is not going to be easily dissolve in water)
thn fish waste & food waste & nutrients in the water, when one of the parameters whn off, like CO2 it will stun the grow of your plants
& when waste & nutrients is not used up, it is a recipe for algae growth, then u have another thing to concern about algae fighting for nutrients with your plants
if your plants start to rot, then another variable to concern about, plants waste

so in the end it all come down to how much time u r willing to spend control the variables
n i won't denial, if ur spend ur moneh correctly especially on the expensive parts it sure make ur life little bit easier
but the problem is parts replacement availability in malaysia, i'm not master of the cheap way as last time i just buy expensive stuff
only recently annoyed and change to the cheap way, if u want 2 learn more u can ask ujelly

This post has been edited by junsheng: Jul 11 2019, 07:51 PM
junsheng
post Jul 11 2019, 08:28 PM

---> pokemon ftw <---
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,234

Joined: Apr 2011
From: Penang Malaysia, sometime KL


QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jul 11 2019, 12:01 PM)
Thanks for your neat n comprehensive advice.
And your tank looks very good.

1. Yeah tank- using my old tank more than 10 years old. Not gonna buy a new tank for now.
Noted on the lime scale. So much build up and much scrTches already.
Might buy a new tank later.

2 I tend to agree the light is very much a gimmic. LED is so cheap these days-not so sure about the best K value then. The trick is to get a good mounting/holder.

3 noted on th soil.

Will visit Aquascape to get the soil, and more advice.  May be the light too and few other accessories including ferts
Now.... is CO2 is a must for hair grass to grow well? It is quite an investment. Tablets or solution won’t give good result right?

And any advice to cycle th tank? Says I intend to flood it after planting.  Keep a portion of the water of current tank?
I got a RO filter at home- should I use a portion of it to mix up in reducing mineral loading?
Tap water is 350ppm and after filter is around 20.
*
if hair grass, CO2 is not necessary, but if u said grow well, till compact, it will be hard to do so
liquid CO2 is not the solution but it will do the job too if u dose daily, if u stick with those eventually it will cost more that CO2
furthermore some plants is sensitive to liquid CO2 like seachem excel, they will melt
user posted image
and it also depend of wat kind of hair grass u get, eleocharis belem will melt where eleocharis acicularis will not melt

if u dry start 1 month period min with new soil u don't need to cycle the tank
the water level is just below the soil, with time bacteria will grow in the soil, unless u r using shrimp soil
i will not recommend u to fill fish as soon as u flood the tank, as this time normally many will push the CO2 to the extreme slow dial down over 2 weeks to prevent shock rot

u mean 350 ppm GH? if u r getting shrimp u can do so especially caridina it is a must fully RO then fill back with GH & KH booster, but if neocaridina like cherry shrimp not really if u want to mix it also can
some adult cherry shrimp will die, but those strong one will live on and give birth to new generation which then you don't need to worry much already

This post has been edited by junsheng: Jul 11 2019, 08:32 PM
victorsoo
post Jul 12 2019, 10:54 AM

New Member
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Posts: 46

Joined: Oct 2013


QUOTE(junsheng @ Jul 11 2019, 07:44 PM)
this photo is not my tank but it look like this, for the small tank, i'm not using CFL but LED bulbs, mainly bcauz of the heat
to adjust the light intensity by adjusting the height
user posted image

well it is not really marketing gimmick, but half truth, it is true tat plant absorb blue & red end of the spectrum better thn green
but wat they didn't tell u is blue & red spectrum does not penetrate well, brand like twinstar & kessil does have optical 2 help the light penetrate
thn they also didn't tell u how much light (PAR) reach the substrate, like green light spectrum with 1300 lumen light bulb generally at 13 inch height gives 70-80 par
where blue & red does not and how much PAR it gives at 13 inch height they didn't tell, unless u buy a par meter to measure which is very expensive

thn it is not like normal CFL & led bulb does not have blue & red spectrum, they do have it
like a 3000k bulb have higher red spectrum 6000k bulb have higher blue spectrum

then having a gud light doesn't mean success, bcauz u still have other variables to look into like CO2 & nutrients
example HC plant in nature only need 60 par of light and 30 ppm of CO2 to grow well
if you were to increase to 120 par of light then 30 ppm of CO2 is not going to be sufficient
then u still haven't count in water circulation (flow of nutrients), temperature (at higher temp gas is not going to be easily dissolve in water)
thn fish waste & food waste & nutrients in the water, when one of the parameters whn off, like CO2 it will stun the grow of your plants
& when waste & nutrients is not used up, it is a recipe for algae growth, then u have another thing to concern about algae fighting for nutrients with your plants
if your plants start to rot, then another variable to concern about, plants waste

so in the end it all come down to how much time u r willing to spend control the variables
n i won't denial, if ur spend ur moneh correctly especially on the expensive parts it sure make ur life little bit easier
but the problem is parts replacement availability in malaysia, i'm not master of the cheap way as last time i just buy expensive stuff
only recently annoyed and change to the cheap way, if u want 2 learn more u can ask ujelly
*
Wow, thank you for the detailed advice. I only have a small low-tech tank at the moment so CO2 level is not an issue. Usually it's the light intensity because the lights that I have bought before are either not intense enough or too intense. I've seen some full spectrum LED sold at some LFS that come with dimmer control but of course those are very expensive.

For sure those very beautiful planted tanks people spend many hours to control all the variables. So I myself am also guilty of not spending enough time maintaining so cannot complain much also. laugh.gif

But I enjoyed reading what you shared with the other forumer about starting a planted tank. Can learn a lot from there. nod.gif
Clueless07
post Jul 12 2019, 11:55 AM

On my way
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Group: Senior Member
Posts: 589

Joined: Oct 2012
thanks for the guide, certainly very useful.
will continue to post and update my journey here.

Went shopping at Aquascape Paradise.
Ouch.... a big hole in my pocket, much bigger than originally anticipated.

user posted image

Spend the entire evening to complete.

They recommend me to use power sand at the bottom, and Amazonia on top.

I fill up the tank with 25% water from old tank and 75% fresh. Added a few drops of good bacter and currently is cycling.

Will need to rework the soil, to have a slope from the back.

Now... is it right to on the light for 24hrs and leave the CO2 running?
Any ferterlizer needed?

This post has been edited by Clueless07: Jul 13 2019, 09:03 AM
junsheng
post Jul 13 2019, 11:09 AM

---> pokemon ftw <---
******
Group: Senior Member
Posts: 1,234

Joined: Apr 2011
From: Penang Malaysia, sometime KL


QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jul 12 2019, 11:55 AM)
thanks for the guide, certainly very useful.
will continue to post and update my journey here.

Went shopping at Aquascape Paradise.
Ouch.... a big hole in my pocket, much bigger than originally anticipated.

user posted image

Spend the entire evening to complete.

They recommend me to use power sand at the bottom, and Amazonia on top.

I fill up the tank with 25% water from old tank and 75% fresh. Added a few drops of good bacter and currently is cycling.

Will need to rework the soil, to have a slope from the back.

Now... is it right to on the light for 24hrs and leave the CO2 running?
Any ferterlizer needed?
*
no dry start?
you have been con my friend, ppl do not use power sand or bacter or super clear whn they have old tank water
furthermore expect algea growth if you used power sand a super nutrient rich base with such little plant
moreover u buy bacter + power sand 2gether, it is not necessary as your tank height is low soil base is not going anywhere near 4 inch
another thing is ppl don't buy power sand with bacter together is because power sand already contain bacter & other mixture like super clear & multi bottom
it is a starter kit with all ADA necessary substrate addictive and nutrients enhancement so tat u no nid to buy the bottle and waste most of it left unused
check here https://www.adana.co.jp/en/contents/product...e/detail01.html

don't turn let the light turn on for 24 hours, 8 hours per day is sufficient becuz they plant u get is low light low nutrients requirements
any high light or long hours will promote algea growth on that very rich nutrient soil
no need to start dosing, only do it in 3rd month

sorry i don't know that u were going to ADA store, if so i would had told u to do research 1st before buying into their suggestion
if your budgets is limited if will make ur situation worst as u spend many on unnecessary
wat kind of CO2 system u get? the refillable CO2 tank with solenoid & timer? or a ADA refill capsule?
and last wat CO2 diffuser u get? i don't think tat is ADA one as i don't c ADA sticker
Clueless07
post Jul 13 2019, 07:49 PM

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Posts: 589

Joined: Oct 2012
Yeah. No dry start coz impatience.

I would thought the power sand was excessive too. The guy wasn’t very savvy. Anyway.... pay to learn lo.
Even the light seems over kill.

Now let see how to avoid the algae grow. Any guidance?

Yes- I got refillable tank and regulator with solenoid.
These are not ADA. The diffuser ain’t too.


Clueless07
post Jul 15 2019, 11:11 AM

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Joined: Oct 2012
Been cycling for last 48hrs.
Running 8 hrs light and CO2

Should I do a partial water change?
And how do I know if it is suitable to put back the fishes?
victorsoo
post Jul 15 2019, 11:39 AM

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Posts: 46

Joined: Oct 2013


QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jul 15 2019, 11:11 AM)
Been cycling for last 48hrs.
Running 8 hrs light and CO2

Should I do a partial water change?
And how do I know if it is suitable to put back the fishes?
*
Do you have a test kit? Useful to have one especially when starting a new setup so you can test for ammonia and nitrate levels because your new Amazonia will leech ammonia.

Eventhough you used old tank water and starter bacteria to cycle, you should still let it cycle a few days or up to a week. But important is to test the water and do a water change if ammonia readings are high.
Clueless07
post Jul 16 2019, 08:49 AM

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Joined: Oct 2012
alrite... just check ammonia and found it to be 0.4mg/L
did a 30% water change- guess will need to wait 2-3 more days before testing again.

got the nitrate kit as well- i guess not point to test now as yet.
junsheng
post Jul 16 2019, 02:48 PM

---> pokemon ftw <---
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From: Penang Malaysia, sometime KL


QUOTE(Clueless07 @ Jul 13 2019, 07:49 PM)
Yeah. No dry start coz impatience.

I would thought the power sand was excessive too. The guy wasn’t very savvy. Anyway.... pay to learn lo.
Even the light seems over kill.

Now let see how to avoid the algae grow. Any guidance?

Yes- I got refillable tank and regulator with solenoid.
These are not ADA. The diffuser ain’t too.
*
refillable tank is gud, just not the ADA capsule they are waste of moeny
diffuser u might need to change to atomic type in future
i was asking becauz ADA diffuser is atomic type

try with 8 hours of light if algea grow then decrease the duration
or decrease the light intensity or get more hair grass, maybe 2 more pot

This post has been edited by junsheng: Jul 16 2019, 02:50 PM
Clueless07
post Today, 04:44 PM

On my way
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It is about a week now. With few water change, the Amnioum drop to 0.2, while nitrite still around 0.6.

Very tempered to put the fishes in. It is suicidal?

Also get my junior to start the small tank w the extra soil.

user posted image

Intend to make it a shrimp tank. Are they even more sensitive? Both NH4 and nitrite need to be 0?
Any other parameters to take care?
Also those plants... would it spread to the soils?



 

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