Hey guys, I have a question to ask. It's about the MA Chassis and AR Chassis's rear brake skit.

I know the rear brake skit will help both chassis but the question is, will the large-diameter wheels renders it useless? I asked this because I want this car: Shooting Proud Star

(Yep, it's another Shooting Star, if you have watched or read Dash! Yonkuro anime and manga.)

I want this car so much because of the performance of the MA Chassis and the fact that this car makes its debut in Hiroyuki Takei's Hyper Dash! Yonkuro manga, but I don't know if I should buy it because of its large-diameter wheels.

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Aug 6 2015, 08:57 PM

Er-hem, I mean the stock brake skit that comes with every AR Chassis and MA Chassis car kits, not the grade-up parts one.

The reason I am worries about it is because with the large-diameter wheels the chassis has higher ground clearance than it was with the small-diameter wheels, but the brake skit's ground clearance will raise far away from the ground.

It's not 'render the tyres useless' but rather 'render the brake skit useless'. So any advises?

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Aug 7 2015, 09:13 AM

Err...can you explain it in full english please?

Maybe I should use some spacers from some of the grade-up parts I got instead. Is that enough?

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Aug 7 2015, 11:05 AM

Well, the rear brake skid comes with the stock kit is made of low-friction POM plastic (as with the plastic bearings), so it will have less wears than the others.

By the way, I have somethings to asks: What is the difference between the normal rubber tires and the silicone tires? And what's the difference between the normal tires and the trimmed ultra-low-profiles tires?

Also I recently noticed that all Tamiya motors that are made by SMC motor uses carbon brushes. (This includes the Sprint-Dash Motor my old Max Breaker have) I wonder what's the benefits with the carbon brushes compare to copper brushes.

Ah. Now I understand how those works.

By the way, since I stays in Ipoh, I have a question to ask: is Tamiya Unlimited Trend Store at Ipoh Parade still exists? If not, what about the Tamiya 4WD Ipoh Underground store at Complex Yik Fong?

I ask this because tomorrow I will go there to buy a new Mini 4WD car with either the MA or AR Chassis. (if lucky, I might get the Shooting Proud Star I wanted) And don't ask me to go to Taipoh store, because me and my relatives doesn't know where the shop is.

Edit: Nevermind, I found both shops to be alive well, though I have to buy the new car (and the new FRP plate) from the Tamiya 4WD Ipoh Underground store at Complex Yik Fong as the Tamiya Unlimited Trend Store at Ipoh Parade haven't open yet when I arrived there.

While I didn't find the Shooting Proud Star, at least I found and brought the Beat Magnum Premium and replace my old Max Breaker as my current car. (Due to the fact that while I am at Ipoh Parade, I did a test run on the race circuit but my Max Breaker's rear wheel become loosen and eventually comes off! What a shame.)

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Aug 20 2015, 07:59 PM

No. He's referring to the silicon tires, not pneumatic tires (which no one uses right now). Anyway, all the low-profile tires from Tamiya can be trimmed, but I am not sure about the other makers'.

Anyway, here's my Beat Magnum Premium with all the GUP attached.

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Aug 20 2015, 11:35 PM


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Seriously, I am really fat and I am wearing eyeglasses if you ask me. And honestly, I don't think anyone will dare to challenge me because my car is somewhat slower than their's.

Anyway, I trimmed the tires a bit to be flat so it will always have max grips. And...I planned to buy a Power-Dash Motor and the carbon pinion gear pack as my old Sprint-Dash Motor is finally broken.

Well, if you mean braking power, I will say not much unless you add the sponge tapes on it. In fact, I am going to add the sponge tapes on the brake skid AND the old frp plate I attached to under the front bumper.

Heck, I hate to say this but there's times where my new car had either course out or flipped on the end of the lane-change section of my own 2-lanes junior circuit at my home because it going too fast.

I hope I can go to Ipoh Parade to do practice races anytime I wanted, but I can't because my family are busy doing their own things and I have to take care of my grandma who had fractured her own right arm and hasn't healed yet since a half-year ago.

And my room is too tight and isn't large enough to place a 3-lanes junior circuit and I don't think my family will allow to place the circuit on any place in my house other than my room, so buying a 3-lanes circuit is out of option right now.

I see.

By the way, I read somewhere on the internet that the full potentials of Sprint-Dash Motor and the Power-Dash Motor can only be reached by using the certain rechargeable batteries (like Tamiya Neo-Champ batteries and Panasonic Eneloop batteries). Is that true?

You mean the Ni-MH is no better than Alkaline?

I used up all 3 sets of Panasonic Evolta batteries, when using that motor.

Well, I hate to say this but according to Tamiya official website they are also available in the Racer Mini 4WD memorial boxes. Some of those contains the cars from Dash! Yonkuro. However those memorial boxes, along with the individual older Racer Mini 4WD cars, are rarely get reissued by Tamiya and as such, they are pretty expensive as heck.

You might have to look for the premium versions of those cars (though they contain the newer chassis and not the older Type series chassis), or the newer one (Shooting Proud Star) from the on-going Hyper Dash! Yonkuro manga.

Well, the original Dash-0 Horizon does comes with the Zero Chassis. In fact, it is the first Mini 4WD car to be equipped with such chassis. Since the one you got is made in Philippine, I assumed that it is the reissued one. (Currently all Tamiya Mini 4WD cars are made in Philippine as well)

Zero Chassis is the predecessor to the Super-1 Chassis and later Super-II Chassis. As the note, the premium version of Horizon comes with the Super-II Chassis.

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Sep 24 2015, 10:42 AM

While it is possible with chassis starting with Super-X Chassis, I wouldn't do that if I were you.

Besides, all 2 front-motor chassis (FM and Super FM) has the poor acceleration performance when compare to other chassis, so I suggest that you to start with either the AR Chassis or MA Chassis as they are beginner-friendly.

That's my 2 cents.

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Oct 1 2015, 01:30 PM

Hey guy, I recently modified my Beat Magnum into the (almost) full bumperless setup. The problem is, I don't have enough legit Tamiya parts so I use some imit parts until I get the nessesary parts I wanted.

The following car settings as follows:
-Motor: stock motor with carbon pinion gear
-Terminal: stock X-type terminal
-Front: bumperless with the AR front FRP plate that was attached to the modified imit aluminum Super-X rear roller stay. There also a modified imit Super-X FRP front plate under it with the thick double tape sticked on it.
-Rear: partially bumperless with the modified Front Sliding Damper paired with the FRP plate.
-Roller: a pair of 9mm ball-bearing rollers on the front, and 2 pairs of 19 mm O-ring type aluminum ball bearing rollers on the rear.
-Mass damper: self-made with parts from the spare front FRP plate, Mini 4WD multi chassis balance weight set and the spares parts from my old Max Breaker.
-Bearing: imit ball bearings.

Only the driveshaft ball bearings, the aluminum Super-X rear roller stay and the Super-X FRP front plate are imit parts. I have to because right now I don't have enough money to buy additional original parts at the moment. Until I get the nessesary parts, the setting will remain unchanged.

Here's the car as of now:

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Oct 23 2015, 01:32 PM


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New Mini 4WD items for December release. Note that the links are from Tamiya's Japanese official website.



Seriously Tamiya...why you release another battery and charger sets when you already have one. And what's more, why there's only one Mini 4WD car release.

Like Mini 4WD cars, Dangun Racer does have official rules but they are only available in Japanese on Tamiya official website. You can check it here: Dangun Racer rules and regulation (Japanese)

Since Tamiya have move their focus to Mini 4WD cars with the Mini 4WD PRO series, Dangun Racer has been discontinued long ago.

Well, according to some sources. the reason why those are very cheap is because there are too many stocks of Dangun Racer kits. It should be note that the concept of module chassis on the original Dangun Racer series was later reused on the MS Chassis of Mini 4WD kits.

At least Dangun Racer stayed longer than R/C Mini 4WD series, which doesn't have any associated media works at all.

Here's the list of Mini 4WD items that will come next month:



To be honest, it is not necessary for normal playing, unless you are planning to participates into some race tournaments; Said setup is very complex and there are some parts that are very hard to get.

This post has been edited by Yuuyatails: Jan 9 2016, 01:54 AM

That info isn't reliable at all. There's no FA Chassis as far as I know.

News for new Mini 4WD cars and GUP releases from Tamiya usually comes from their official website (both Japanese and English), their twitter account for Mini 4WD cars, and CoroCoro Aniki magazine (sadly, you have to import the magazine since it only releases in Japan).

That's depends on what chassis does look best with the Emperor to you.

It should be noted that the original Dash-1 Emperor was released in 1988 with the Type-1 Chassis and released with Type-3 Chassis in 1990. Both the Type-1 and Type-3 variants are very rare than the MS variant and Super-II variant since they are very old kit and is rarely reissues by Tamiya.