Has anyone here use the 3 spokes carbon large dia wheel item #15414 on the MA chassis? Can share the best way to setup this wheel set as this is a 72mm type .thanks
TAMIYA Mini4WD Le V15, Lets remp-it and loncat loncat!
TAMIYA Mini4WD Le V15, Lets remp-it and loncat loncat!
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Jan 3 2015, 08:22 AM
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#1
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Senior Member
586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
Has anyone here use the 3 spokes carbon large dia wheel item #15414 on the MA chassis? Can share the best way to setup this wheel set as this is a 72mm type .thanks
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Jan 3 2015, 08:26 AM
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#2
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586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
Anyone here had any success using MA chassis for semi speed long jump race ?
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Jan 3 2015, 08:23 PM
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#3
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586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
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Jan 10 2015, 08:34 AM
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#4
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586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
Just want to share , after I convert all my cars from 62mm - 72mm reinforced shaft , is more solid and wheels are very stable . When using 62mm, can see the wheels wiggle causing a lot of friction during landing from jumps but with 72mm is tight and very minor wiggle , landing is slap to the ground nicely . Just to let new racers know for their tweaks and upgrades ya. Cheers
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Jan 10 2015, 01:09 PM
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#5
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586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
I only use my eyes and hands to pull in the first wheel to a certain length until I see a bit of the 72mm shaft starts coming out from the wheel and then I put in the other pair of wheel . Kerja main agak2, tu lah tiada tools pro. Lol.
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Jan 11 2015, 08:08 AM
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#6
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QUOTE(gsuwizard @ Jan 10 2015, 06:29 PM) Ini video dari Mad Tang , harap dapat menambah ilmu anda. Video kat channel Nya semua ππhttp://youtu.be/BxOvYAG5kFM |
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Jan 25 2015, 09:22 AM
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#7
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586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
QUOTE(soulfly @ Jan 24 2015, 07:35 PM) buying motor also depending on luck +1,every pack come out differently . I had purchased multiple power dash at one time and one of it came out bad, the pitch is lower then a virgin one so I did the break in but not much improvement soi just put aside for quite a whole thinking is a dead motor π‘, then when I was free enough to break in again after 2 weeks plus , eh, sounds good like normal , luckily did not throw it away . Lol. Just my share πsometimes out of packet, nyet nyet a bit, then can fly already sometimes no matter how many times you nyet, the motor just don't want to perform |
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Mar 6 2015, 08:30 AM
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#8
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QUOTE(Cim~ @ Mar 4 2015, 09:38 PM) Hello again, I'm also in the same boat as u ,my MA was having 27.x sec when the TQ is 23.x second at my last attended race due to MA originally is heavier on weight itself .On my last week race, our champ had a freaking 16 sec best time on the high speed track. My cars' best time was 21+ sec. I ran out of options / ideas on what to do on my current resources: MA and AR chassis both in 3.5 gear ratio both in super large hard tires Mach Dash for MA Ultra for AR Both in rear sliding damper Both DA 12-13mm in front Both 19 mm at back (single roller) Currently, I applied counter gears using small diameter washers. I think it improved performance since I did not charge my battery since the race (Sunday) and it was still able to get 21 secs. My MS lightweight project is still on hold due to budget. What I noticed is that every try I spray McKenic Contact Cleaner on the gears and motor, the results were erratic. Sometimes it gets 21, then 22, then 23 secs and go back to 21. I think it's time to use motor oils and grease. Up to now, I only used McKenice Contact Cleaner (orange) as the lubricant of gears and motor. Any advise on what to purchase and what to mix (magic formulas) for the oil? Does use of grease and motor oil make a very big advantage compared to McKenic / RP7? PS: What does AKD mean? Now I'm learning how to reduce the weight of both MA & AR to get a better speed so will potong here & there . The battery & motor is always the key to achieve good track time . No doubt . |
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Mar 6 2015, 08:34 AM
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#9
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586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
Anyone here tried front hanging damper system on MA?
This post has been edited by Mikeyz: Mar 6 2015, 08:45 AM |
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Mar 6 2015, 12:19 PM
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#10
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586 posts Joined: Dec 2011 |
Thanks for the helpful tips . Will give it a try
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Mar 7 2015, 08:18 AM
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#11
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QUOTE(AF21 @ Mar 6 2015, 01:32 PM) You can't blame the chassis weight if the your time is +4 seconds lol. I'm not trying to blame on the chassis weight but would try our losing it's original weight to gain a not more speed if possible . Unless you are +1 second, then it might the chassis being 'too heavy' or what not. But +4 secs show that your overall setting is not yet up to competitive racing standards. : Slowly re-approach your car setup and figure out what is wrong. We all learn racing. Slowly Thanks for your notes , will learn more from others Ya a always see some racers after few race then selling off the cars and parts , if it was that easy to win then is no challenge , nothing comes easy for such a rewarding race at the end , agree ? The good thing is mini 4wd will not have the same winner each time at a race . This post has been edited by Mikeyz: Mar 7 2015, 08:31 AM |
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Mar 19 2015, 11:45 PM
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#12
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Hi guys, I just painted my Raikiri cowl with Pactra color spray & the outcome was rough & unrefined.
What can I use to remove the paint and not damaging the default black color from the plastic Raikiri cowl? I should have bought Tamiya TS color spray can in the 1st place, geez! Who here is into plastic cowl spraying pls share some insight & tips. TQ |
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