u dowan play his buntut....you want him to play your buntut? 

I started worship Super4 ever since my bio brader poisoned me some 15 years ago, where his Plotong GaGa 1.5S start to hutan bakar. Magician ady use the dunno what scope to check determine there's valve leak causes loss compression and eat engine oil. After use Super4 sometimes, no more white smoke

I can't recall when, should be beginning of December

Lately I have been posting very less and being quiet because was busy with my wife and my new baby boy at the confinement center and fetching my daughter on weekends.

And on weekdays I'm alone at home with boring nights so I went and dig, read and did some RnD and information digging on our FLX Getrag gearbox. On the car user manual the gearbox is called 5MTT200A I've tried to Google more info with this name but it come out with information that was only surface and not deep enough or have any technical use at all. I've been digging for 1 month plus and its not complete yet.

Why did I went digging so deep? It started when I wanted to loate the filler hole for the gearbox since I wanted to try and change the transmission fluid myself. The information for the gearbox oil was also very sacred as the bottle from Proton only stated Geatrag gear oil.

So far these are the information that I've gathered across the globe and I might be wrong and hopefully these information can be useful in the future and I will continue to search for it and add in when I have the time.

Did you know?
1. 5MTT200A is very very similar to IB5 transmission. IB5 is a gearbox produced by Getrag Ford.
2. IB5 is an improved version of BC Series transmission from Ford.
3. IB5 was introduced in 1995 and was 1st used in the Mk4. Fiesta. (Source: wiki)
4. Some 5 speed manual Ford model is using the IB5 gearbox
5. The current Ford model that still uses the IB5 is the Ford Focus 1.4,1.6 and 1.8 (but might have a different transmission case and rear cover.

6. The IB5 transmission was under production in Europe for more than 30 years, and is localized in China since 2006 and re-named B5A mainly supplied to Ford China, and is widely used for Ford Ka, FIAT, Fusion, Focus, Fiesta, MG Rover; Etc. Synchronizers are applied for all forward speed gears, a dual synchronizer ring is incorporated.
The transmission has five forward speeds and one reverse speed. Synchronizers are adopted to all speeds. The 2ND speed is dual cone synchronizer. The differential and the transmission are designed into integration.

7. IB5 for some FORD model have the same gear ratio as our FLX except for the Final drive being 4.067 or 4.267
http://www.gasgoo.com/showroom/michael0317...ts/1510084.html

8. Our FLX has a ball detent at the gear linkage at the transmission. This ball detent maybe can be upgrade to stronger unit from Fiesta MK6 ST but might need to drill and re-thread to fit. (most right is MK6 ST ball detent.



9. Quaife has a 5 speed sequential gear kit for IB5 maybe can fit to our FLX as the clutch/bell housing is same.
http://shop.quaife.co.uk/ford-ib5-5-speed-sequential-gearkit

10. The gear oil:
The user manual says its a Castrol BOT130M but no specs written on manual even on bottle. It is actually a SAE 75W90 API Gl-4 Synthetic gear oil. I got this information from Rover Forum.

11. Ford Puma's 3rd, 4th, 5th is the same as ours and final drive is wee bit different. Ford Puma Racing is using the 3.82 Final drive so our final drive could be a very strong one. 


12. This is a gearbox picture from a Ford Focus 5 speed manual...The linkage area is 90% same as our FLX. I still need to double check again if I can find the filler hole (circled yellow) on top of the ball detent circle in red. The green circle highlights the shifting mechanism.



13. Break down parts no of the Getrag gearbox which some didn't some on the spare part list while some have.


14. Our FLX transmission is separated into 3 parts. clutch/Bell housing -->transmission case-->rear cover. All the gears are in the transmission case.

15. Ford Focus LX gear shift at console.....macam macam like our FLX. I can't find back my FLX gear shift link at console. 


16. Maybe FLX clutch set can use from FORD for IB5 transmission...just MAYBE....

17. How to fix the loose collet at the shifting mechanism. This is on a Ford Focus but I've seen out shift linkage and it's very much the same.


Above are all the information that I've gathered are from various sources such as Ford forum, MG forum, Ford Puma forum, Focus forum youtube, Google...etc...All credits goes to original contributors.

I'm very sure that the IB5 shares a lot of common things with our 5MTT and since the gearbox is not new the differences that we see if the continuous changes over time be it on the transmission case, or the bell housing but the base of it is still very same or similar to each other. I wish there will be other forummer who can chip in to help gather more information as it will be useful for all MT owners.

If my information are wrong please forgive me...My eyes are so tired browsing through 20+ tabs on Chrome

Ini davidke20 banyak bad influence one.

I always written Proton Gen-2 as proton Gen-Tut in my opis report.

Sudah jau tut liao.

davidke20 itu filter kertas ekon saga blm ada setok lagi tak? i punya sudah gg.

aircond filter can ask Maxwell for help. btw, i think wanna order filter la. stock tinggal 1.
btw achilles platinum got 4 grooves. 

only rm105/pc for 13" 
s@ni no need apollogeeze geh. this thread is open for community. unless david report u liao the u gg.com. but this is gaga thread no problem. unless it's sawi thread lol.

Mine until now haven't install. Persoga need to take out something else other than the original cabin filter right?

I still need to pickup his order. And I'll take yours when I see u.

i ordered from u? sejak bila? i tot that was from david? braparibu sebiji?

Pasang auto brake lock void door lock actuator warranty.

Pasang vacuum meter void ECU harness warranty.

Biasa la. Any carmaker is the same.

Nanti pump petrol also void fuel pump warranty coz did not pump Proton brand petrol

OK Guys and girls with the help of Goohtj I managed to find some information for your wheel bearing.
Ori proton supply is NTN 566030 This is a Double Row angular contact bearing with 2 inner rings

Other companies that have this bearing is FAG and SKF.

FAG is a company from German that produces bearings. Their bearing number for our wheel bearing is the same as NTN. Also 566030. Will update the price here.

SKF on the other hand is having a different numbering for it. 445539. Price will also be updated here.

So for us there's 3 choices of bearing that we can choose to use. You can go to a bearing shop and quote them the number and tell them you need Double row angular contact bearing.

Bearing measurement as given by goohtj

ID (d): 25mm
OD (D): 52mm
Width inner ring (B): 37mm
Width outer ring (D): 37mm
Our wheel bearing is the Type C.

ya its the same maybe earlier batch flx still using blm bearing ,
mine flx bearing kong at 30k km and ask pomen change first they said flx lain bearing then after repair said they use blm mia bearing haha

That is a very good finding write up. Other than griding the holder nose and apply silicone, what else can be done? We can't possibly made our own contact spring or grind the coil packs right?

Today I have something new to share with everyone. As we all know our Coil on Plug getting stuck has been an issue for who knows how long and Proton don't seem to know how to solve this problem or have any solution to it. This morning while I was going to swap out my COP to TM Works units.


I faced the same situation as the 1st time I try to remove my stock COP. THIS TIME HOWEVER...all 4 got stuck. I remember after the 1st encounter with this problem I apply some high temp rubber grease on the upper rubber part that comes in contact with the metal tube that houses the spark plug as I suspect is that part that get stuck BUT NO....I was wrong....the actual culprit was the bottom rubber that holds the spark plug. WHY it get stuck there because the rubber is in contact with the spark plug ceramic insulator and overtime the rubber becomes dry and get stuck on it.
SO THE SOLUTION...JENG JENG JENG......
When you remove the COP on the 1st time if the top part pop off don't worry, proceed to remove the center spring then you grab WD40 or any spray grease and squirt some into the center hole. This will make the spray comes in contact with the sprak plug ceramics insulator and the bottom rubber. Wiggle it a little bit and wait for a while. After that try to twist and turn the lower COP body with a long nose plier and when you can turn the whole thing. Then you can plug back in the TOP part and proceed to pull the whole COP out. Tips to easy remove is pull and turn, pull and turn. Then the COP will pop right out like a breeze.

Another more radical solution that can solve the problem forever is to use an art knife and cut away some of the inner rubber that contact with the sprak plug...Make the hole bigger so it does not hold the spark plug too tightly. No it will not cause any problem is the bottom rubber does not hold tightly.
Right is sprayed with silicone grease, left is not and its dry...

And in the process I found out Mitsubishi COP is compatible for our spark plug but the COP is similar in length and need to find out the PIN out diagram to make it work but it's only have 3 pin so probable 1 is Source, 1 is firing signal another is ground?? Hahaha What I found out is that the removal of sprak plug from Mitsubishi COP is very much easier than Proton.


Comparison between Mitsubishi and TM Works.


In the process also found out another different coil spring design. This is on COP marked with B because according to V12kompressor the different marking on the COP designate the different design of the internal parts.
Right is ori COP from proton marked A. Left is from COP marked B but also from Bosch. 


Original Top coil on right. Notice the difference on the coil plate design. A type have a flat copper contact surface. B type is with a dimple contact surface and it sits deeper into the top coil.

You ni different coz you suka buttsek so COP pun different...hahahaha
Got glue also no use for my case...2 COP with glue..I rip the glue right out of it...Hahahaha

quote 1:
so fsr how does it perform? any bulk yet? hehe 

quote 2:
wonder what happens to mine as im using iridium as well 

Not wrong with Iridium plugs. When u came to a point that the ignition coil generate too much current, copper wont stand anymore, then Iridium/Platinum/Ytrium is what left as a choice liao.

ok thanks bro..just called the battery supply guy, waiting to arrive...getting panasonic MF one, RM 200 - reasonable?

Silver also degrade very fast The harder to degrade are the 3 as stated previously

Mine is FLX model, so how?