Adobe doesnt has the right to use the original sony color profiling (color maps) so adobe make it to default. you can set and adjust it to your liking and auto apply to all your raw files. also, u lose all dynamic range data when used with adobe raw engine (adobe raw converter/lightroom)... same case with canikon using Adobe too. they loose bunch of canikon proprietary data.

you will never get 100% sony color(and dynamic range) unless u use back sony own raw editor.

shutter speed wont help you with packed situation even u expose for 10 minute, the shadow(phantoms) image will still be there....

the best way to do it is to use MEDIAN in adobe, u snap about 10 photo(more the better accuracy) for about every 15-30 sec(not shutter speed, duration between each shot, or in between the crowd move away from the blocked landscape), photoshop will take the 10 photo(s) and remove(subtract) items that is not suppose to be there (non static subject)

for deeper info how to use it, you can google "photoshop crowd removal Median" in youtube.

unless you dont wan to use Photoshop, then there is no best way to do it.

the general answer is No,

but i had a friend who brought from SG, went to Australia to study, he mailed Sony Sg and ask for assistant, after some discussion, he was asked to send his unit to Sony Australia, and Sony SG will cover the cost. (partly he used the keyword, study in Australia, wouldnt able to go back SG for warranty service claim)

and since you said buy from UK, i know UK and US Customer Service are better.... so u you try email them and see if they allows you to send to Sony Msia for service and charges bear by them.

Eiraku: basically almost every (eletrocnics) company i know of, locks their region warranty due to 'water-set/AP' set issue. Buying from other region and claim locally is no different from legalize water/ap units. Samsung phone buy in Korea cant be claim in malaysia, Lenovo laptop buy from Taiwan cant claim in Malaysia, Canon brought from Australia's claim in malaysia.

but HTC brought from taiwan, basically can claim from all around the world after u write a email to HTC taiwan regard your issue. (but some region will not allow like warzone area.... )

This post has been edited by ieR: Jan 21 2015, 12:09 PM

sb800 via SU4 mode, so will sb900, sb910 with SU4 mode(in the settings). the reason many strobist doesnt like optic trigger is that, anyone(or anything) could set off/fire your WL setup (in group shot) and cause many complication (overused, overheat, slow cycle etc) hence they stick with proprietary system or lock it rf trigger(using own channelA/B/C/D)

i really doubt any other company has HSS with mounted flash in bounce mode. even if XXXXX give HSS on bounce, it is totally useless, it has no way to calculate the required power to use when there is no indication of the length(distance) of bounce < that is the reason why sony disable HSS in bounce mode when attached, because it totally pointless and not useful having hss in bounce (attached) < instead of HSS, u might as well on the video light on the flash for better continuous light source. :/ kinda defeat the purpose.

BUT, HSS is available no matter what angle u bend, in WL Mode (so will canon and nikon flash). even so, u required Proprietary system so the flashes knows the HSS activation due to communication with camera shutter setting. No, you cannot manual HSS it, No flash i know can force to do this, hence why trigger will not activate HSS(because most trigger will not know your camera shutter because lack of communication connections) unless... unless you talking about thousand of ringgit for the pocketwizards.

so i dont think there is any cheaper way to trigger HSS then using original flash (except nissin i40, claim by other ppl)

reply via handphone, might have a lot typo mistake due to small screen unable to read whole reply.

oh yea... forgot to mention you need to invest hundreds for the adapter before pocketwizard lol~

nothing wrong with the camera, i know what it is, but i dunno how to explain. still looking for article to explain that.

its something to do with first digital curtain. it happens to early batch of nex when shot with HSS in digital curtain mode. but until now, nobody know is because of digital curtain or digital curtain in high speed shutter (over 1/160) issue.

advise is simply turn the Front Curtain Shutter mode under Setup to ON. but pls turn back to Off when shooting normally.

human nature... everyone(almost) wants free gifts, wan free admission, free knowledge, free location and free factors. keyword, free... oh not forgetting free models... well, almost(not everyone)...

the four dark corner is called Vignetting, it is a very natural occurrence with some lens at certain camera settings.
usually happens when the lens's aperture is wide open (small F number, eg, F1.4, F2.8, F3.5 for kitlens) at widest angle (or fixed lens)...

so you will usually notice it on 16mm F3.5... but if you set your aperture to F5.6, the vignetting will be reduced and will be gone at F8.

when go out shoot again, i wan join~~

i love the toning very much~ has depth of emotion.

what you need to know? using it since spyder2. currently using Spyder4elite. (going to grab s5elite soon)

if you are using LCD, ur WB should be in 6500k. it will look a little warming at first... but you will get used to it.

Ahpingko

the program can be activated with same serial (or activated code) multiple time on multiple PC. the only limitation of the series are locked option/feature of the software, like studio matching, or custom brightness/whitebalance.

and for spyder2,3 express model, it only allowed calibration of 1 display(technically is running of single profile), or means multiple monitor will use same one profile. (but not sure with spyder5, heard they lifted this limitation)

colorimeter is to tune the computer actually, not the monitor. monitor are more of a fixed physical output. monitor display rely on the signal or data (analog for VGA port, digital for DVI/HDMI/DP port) from the graphic processing unit, which base on color profiles window/driver has given.

after tuning, it suppose to show accurate color of what you are suppose to see at the limitation of the monitor physical ability. so your edited photo should be as neutral base on your editing.

eg if your computer color has run off toward more pink tint, you might adjust your photo into the green zone without knowing it, and generally we calibrated monitor will see your photo in green tint.

calibrated monitor are good. because generally, iphone and smartphones are build to be as close to whitebalanced as possible, while laptop and lcd are a little colder, and crt (if there are any around) gets warmer overtime.

so if you edited the photo on your pc, dont worry what kind of result your friends see in their PC, because their PC/laptop might not be calibrated and their color might or may not be off, but rest assure, their mobile are the closest neutral color to your computer color.

also if you are not sure what editing you did, might gone wrong or not is whole another issue of your own color perception.

another thing that you will know your friend computer color has gone wrong or not is, when they upload their own photo, the whole/several album are all tinted towards a color... which i see commonly in many photographer's fb, especially towards green tint due to their computer(laptop) are too blueish red...

ok, i finished my coffee, back to work.

lehtung: ouch, i dont think there are experienced or technical enough people to tell you whats wrong... but the best option is always to send to sony service center, if you still have warranty left, else sending in for checking and quotation for repairs would required rm40(i think was increased)... and pray the quotation are not too expensive for repairs.

from what i notice, i kinda agree with -kytz- about the memory card, because when u start shooting, the memory card accessing red led keep on lighting up, normally it doesnt light up that long.

oh yaaa... true true... then it could be the shutter unit is ehem. (last quote from one of my friend was 7xx including labor charge.)

but before you send, do u ever considering upgrading before this? say jumping on e mount, A6000 replacement? if so, selling off your A77 as spare/repair part then... i think can easily get back rm1k??? as funding to A6k replacement.

IazHes (and some other who misunderstood)

the sony E mount system micro usb can take power from 4.6V to 5.2V. so it should be safe as standard USB certified are 5V+-0.2V

as for the Amperage, that is the amount or limit of it can draw (Pull).... not amount it will push. so even i plug in a 5V, 300A charger, the camera only able to pull maximum of 0.5A out from the 300A charger. the charger Will Not Push 300A into the camera, its not designed that way.

the Amperage is depend on the client to pull the power. not the host to push to power.

same goes with those multi usb port charger, or a certified type, those travel charger (not those china ones). usually the amperage are shared among the ports, say eg; 4 ports usb charger, rated 2A each, but read the fine print, only total of 4A max, means the 4A will be share among the 3/4 ports if all is plug, or max of 2A for 2/1 port. but that also doesnt mean it cant charge any 1A devices, since its a maximum draw limit, not push limit.

Anywhere. Even in lyn, just add extra info, broken unit, selling off as repair parts. State which part is broken which is not.

what do you mean Reviews not very encourging? the A6000 or the combo-ed kitlens?

honestly, this kitlens has kinda bad barrel and pin cushion distortion then the old 1855, but yet, its really sharp, and there is not APS-C lens that can retract and kept to small size in the market yet.

so, your concern would be,

slight distortion (which most ppl wont notice it) and Compact-ness

or you can pick better zeiss model which end up

good optic quality and bulky-ness

hope this small information helps u understand your choice.

hi, i would advise to shoot in 3:2 first, because if you would turn your camera to portrait orientation and shoot 16:9, you will feel very funny with a "tall" photo... the 3:2 would give your mind easier to comprehend and look more acceptable. you can always crop it later to the ratio you like.

16:9 is nice if you plan to shoot landscape orientation and use them as wallpaper, since most modern computer are 16:9. other then that, most physical prints are 4:3 (not 3:2)... so expect some cropping to happen when doing prints.

this is very very very Subjective question with very very subjective answer.

i dont think everyone picks 35 over 50, because i rotate between 35,50,85 and 135....

some people may prefer 35mm due to the shorter range that is easier to work with in limited space, or better interaction with subject. this being said, im still waiting for the right 24mmF1,4 lens.... XD

direct answer is NO... it will not improve IQ... but... not using FB as photo hosting could improve IQ hahahaha

but indirectly, Skill will make a bad iq photo into a very 'good' picture. no matter is pre-shot(composition) or post-shot (post processing aka photoshop)photo.

i viewed your photo... i think the problem is not with the camera but usually is from user misunderstanding. i will try explain a bit bit if you understand.

1. if you are comparing your photo with commercial photo or from the PROs flickr account. you will notice
i. you lack of composition. so skill make a big diff, no matter what God lens you may owned. the reason why your photo subject doesnt 'Pop's
ii. you lack of post processing... your color are dull... nothing to do with camera, because my D4, 1Dx and A99 gives about the same color if i do not post process the color. ... trust me, when compare to the PRO, they spend 2 minute to snap the photo, but 20hours to post process it to perfection.

2. judging from your fb photo... the first thing caught my eye, why is your contrast awefully high for the early set of photo (the temples ones).... did u do something to the setting? actually bottom set also has high contrast feel, it could be some setting you fiddle around (Contrast or DRO perhaps?) and forgotten about it... (you are not the first case, i have many friend who i introduce to buy Sony camera for vacation come back with messed up setting and blame camera for not working properly.... )