Was that taken with the Sig19 or the Kitty?

I did find that my old Sig19 had more subdued (and cooler) colours than my Sony primes. Not so sure about the Kitty... good as it is I don't shoot with it much due to the distortion - I shoot raw and the SEL20 + ECU1 has less distortion at 15mm then the kitty does at 16.

But compared to Fuji colours, yeah Sony is a bit bluer. Otherwise it looks about right to me most of the time.

Do elaborate why you feel so. While the A6000 is a good camera with a good sensor, it's not unfailable. After all, it's essentially "just" a enthusiast level camera.

I'm generally happy with what it's giving me, though coming from the A200 I probably don't have as high expectations as you do - knowing the cameras you've shot.

Maybe it's the glass you're using? As much as I liked the sharpness of the S19... there was something about the rendering that felt a bit off to me back when I had it.

can't complain much about the kit lens. sometimes skills is a factor to take a great photograph

direct answer is NO... it will not improve IQ... but... not using FB as photo hosting could improve IQ hahahaha

but indirectly, Skill will make a bad iq photo into a very 'good' picture. no matter is pre-shot(composition) or post-shot (post processing aka photoshop)photo.

i viewed your photo... i think the problem is not with the camera but usually is from user misunderstanding. i will try explain a bit bit if you understand.

1. if you are comparing your photo with commercial photo or from the PROs flickr account. you will notice
i. you lack of composition. so skill make a big diff, no matter what God lens you may owned. the reason why your photo subject doesnt 'Pop's
ii. you lack of post processing... your color are dull... nothing to do with camera, because my D4, 1Dx and A99 gives about the same color if i do not post process the color.  ... trust me, when compare to the PRO, they spend 2 minute to snap the photo, but 20hours to post process it to perfection.

2. judging from your fb photo... the first thing caught my eye, why is your contrast awefully high for the early set of photo (the temples ones).... did u do something to the setting? actually bottom set also has high contrast feel, it could be some setting you fiddle around (Contrast or DRO perhaps?) and forgotten about it... (you are not the first case, i have many friend who i introduce to buy Sony camera for vacation come back with messed up setting and blame camera for not working properly....  )

will, if u are at home, take one photo from his FB and do you thang... and post back here(before and after) see how a dull photo can pop after processing...

Don't trust camera ai there don't really catch what u prefer that why there is manual mode in dlsr.

      maybe anak anak got kacau? hahaha...

maybe u can explain 'how' a photo looks good to you? see how we can try to help u from here on...

asrul I have a better possible explanation. A DSLR is heavy, so you hold it rather securely. Mirrorless is actually MORE susceptible to operator shake because it's so light. And a very small degree of operator shake can rob you of a certain amount of sharpness and NOT look anything like motion blur.

And yeah... OSS only helps to a certain level.

Were those shots taken on a tripod?

asrul you're just shooting in lousy light.


You can, however, shoot RAW and recover the highlights. This is what I could do from the JPG.


There's still a bit of sky detail here. Barely.


What you want to do is shoot in this kind of bright, sunny, angled sunlight. Notice that the buildings have highlights and shadows.

as long as not fully manual, there's still "auto exposure mode", means that camera will still automatically adjust the lighting depends on the camera sensor & metering mode. sometimes when the camera sensor detected white, they will adjust the exposure to become lower and result the white subject becomes grey.

i get your point, but you put in wrong explanation 

smaller sensor where wider angled lens are required to reach the same equivalent eg: FF 28mm angle, will suffer more light diffraction due to the need of wider angle of the lens. 

like u say, apsc suffer more then FF. actually, i find the mirrorless E, the sweetspot usually is at F5.6 then F8 

but i doubt is all about sharpness, his problem is more of the dull color that affect most of his photo. i wonder would his photo be more interesting if he had set the color profile to vivid with +1 contrast, DROlevel3.

it could be anything that cause him to compare to his DSLR output. its best if he could show us more info/image comparison so we can debate what causes it and how we can improve it.

The "uncrispy" thing was from asrul himself... He said that the pics weren't "crispy" compared to pics taken with a DSLR. Didn't go and pixel peep his pics to verify either lol... my bad.

ieR Like I said... the sensor is only "part" of the problem. However, the depth of technical mumbo jumbo concerning diffraction is probably lost on me, as from my own experiences its all a matter of limiting my aperture to f16 on APSC if I was concerned about output sharpness... anything above that would already show significant effects from diffraction, at the very least on sharpness alone.

The hows and whys is slightly too deep into optics for me lol.

But I digress. Looking at the posted pictures again, I'd say I'll have to agree that sharpness isn't really the main issue here.

Which begs me the question, how much PP would be considered as "too much" for you guys? I'm genuinely curious as I'm a subscriber of the school of "light" PP myself.

Maybe I should just drop by Kontan during years end. I always have a hankering for the AWESOME seaside curry mee from over there.

bdrc Yay a fellow light PP-er!

While I do know my way (a bit) around the big Pii Ess, it always seems to be a tad too much work. There are a few projects I would like to try with it (mostly multi-exposure blending)... but maybe later.

asrul They got buy themselves meh? I always thought it was more a sponsorship thing.