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 Proton PrevĂ© V22, Venturing into 3rd anniversary!

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carbon14
post Jan 10 2015, 10:15 PM

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QUOTE(plumberly @ Jan 10 2015, 06:30 PM)
My 2 cents.

If my memory is still OK, I read that the warranty can be extended to another owner within the warranty period. There is a form at the back of the car manual for this.

Cheerio.
*
Thanks for headsup, i will ask the SC ppl.

Guys i neex help. The preve 2012 im buying has the following problem. Need advise on what might be causing it.

1. Brake pedal emit metal grinding sound like a metal cable going through friction without lubricant.
2. From dead stop, pressing the pedal normally, car accelerates but after theres like a slight jerk at 1.5k to 2k rpm, like in AT transmission jerk. But thereafter changes smoothly past 30kmh
3. From dead stop, changing the selector from P to D while pressing brake needs quite an effort, like hard to shift
4. Acceleration from stationary will cause audible rattling and vibrations from dashboard area

Any help is appreciated! notworthy.gif

This post has been edited by carbon14: Jan 10 2015, 11:20 PM
cts0418
post Jan 10 2015, 10:54 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 10 2015, 10:15 PM)
Thanks for headsup, i will ask the SC ppl.

Guys i neex help. The preve im buying has the following problem. Need advise on what might be causing it.

1. Brake pedal emit metal grinding sound like a metal cable going through friction without lubricant.
2. From dead stop, pressing the pedal normally, car accelerates but after theres like a slight jerk at 1.5k to 2k rpm, like in AT transmission jerk. But thereafter changes smoothly past 30kmh
3. From dead stop, changing the selector from P to D while pressing brake needs quite an effort, like hard to shift

Any help is appreciated!  notworthy.gif
*
Yours is 2012 or 2013 preve?
carbon14
post Jan 10 2015, 11:21 PM

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QUOTE(cts0418 @ Jan 10 2015, 10:54 PM)
Yours is 2012 or 2013 preve?
*
Hi bro, it is 2012 (one of the first batch)? blink.gif
hong3831
post Jan 11 2015, 12:41 PM

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Anyone change thier front cabin light? Can share the cost? I think mine is burnt~
MetallicSilver
post Jan 11 2015, 12:48 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 10 2015, 10:15 PM)
Thanks for headsup, i will ask the SC ppl.

Guys i neex help. The preve 2012 im buying has the following problem. Need advise on what might be causing it.

1. Brake pedal emit metal grinding sound like a metal cable going through friction without lubricant.
2. From dead stop, pressing the pedal normally, car accelerates but after theres like a slight jerk at 1.5k to 2k rpm, like in AT transmission jerk. But thereafter changes smoothly past 30kmh
3. From dead stop, changing the selector from P to D while pressing brake needs quite an effort, like hard to shift
4. Acceleration from stationary will cause audible rattling and vibrations from dashboard area

Any help is appreciated!  notworthy.gif
*
Hello friend, I bought mine 2nd hand too, 2012 first batch exactly 1 year old when i bought it. Warranty still valid for 2nd owner provided 1st owner carried out the services accordingly. Have been using and servicing the car for more than a year now.

No1 - I had this before. Tell the SC. They will clean the break pads and discs. Mine was ok after.

No.2 - I had this also. You probably need to remap your ecu. You need to specifically ask them to do it, otherwise they wont. Also just check to see if the SAT button at your gear console is pressed.

No.3 - Never had this issue. Its tighter that the other shifts but shouldn't be too tight. I am sure you know what is natural and not

No.4 - Thats just typically Proton smile.gif Sometimes over revving by flooring the pedal does get the CVT gearbox screaming and vibrating like its going to explode which gets transferred to the dash. Don't think there is much that can be done. But if you feel its not normal then can always check with the SC.

**Please check your service schedule booklet to see if all was done properly.

Btw yours is Exec or CFE?

Cheers!

carbon14
post Jan 11 2015, 01:05 PM

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QUOTE(MetallicSilver @ Jan 11 2015, 12:48 PM)
Hello friend, I bought mine 2nd hand too, 2012 first batch exactly 1 year old when i bought it. Warranty still valid for 2nd owner provided 1st owner carried out the services accordingly. Have been using and servicing the car for more than a year now.

No1 - I had this before. Tell the SC. They will clean the break pads and discs. Mine was ok after.

No.2 - I had this also. You probably need to remap your ecu. You need to specifically ask them to do it, otherwise they wont. Also just check to see if the SAT button at your gear console is pressed.

No.3 - Never had this issue. Its tighter that the other shifts but shouldn't be too tight. I am sure you know what is natural and not

No.4 -  Thats just typically Proton smile.gif Sometimes over revving by flooring the pedal does get the CVT gearbox screaming and vibrating like its going to explode which gets transferred to the dash. Don't think there is much that can be done. But if you feel its not normal then can always check with the SC.

**Please check your service schedule booklet to see if all was done properly.

Btw yours is Exec or CFE?

Cheers!
*
Hi Silver, thanks alot for your reply! Mine is a CFE version. I think I'll save down these tips for future owners. When I bought the car the service booklet wasn't given to me. I guess I will have to hound the previous owner to get it. I hope Proton keeps a digital/computerised record on customer servicing. It'll be shitty if they dont. notworthy.gif notworthy.gif
metaled
post Jan 11 2015, 01:26 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 10 2015, 10:15 PM)
Thanks for headsup, i will ask the SC ppl.

Guys i neex help. The preve 2012 im buying has the following problem. Need advise on what might be causing it.

1. Brake pedal emit metal grinding sound like a metal cable going through friction without lubricant.
2. From dead stop, pressing the pedal normally, car accelerates but after theres like a slight jerk at 1.5k to 2k rpm, like in AT transmission jerk. But thereafter changes smoothly past 30kmh
3. From dead stop, changing the selector from P to D while pressing brake needs quite an effort, like hard to shift
4. Acceleration from stationary will cause audible rattling and vibrations from dashboard area

Any help is appreciated!  notworthy.gif
*
I am driving a 2012 CFE/

1. Check your break pad, if it is still a-plenty, ask the SC give it a good blow with air gun. Still cant fix a new brake pad

2. This is normal. In very layman simple explanation CVT is going to "2nd gear", observe the RPM, it will drop like it is engaging to 2nd gear. You can replicate this using the paddle shifter masuk gear 1 accelerate then masuk gear 2. Accelerate from complete by selecting Gear 2 from your gear selector may eliminate this for a while before u need to shift to gear 3.

3. Normal. The mechanical rubber stuff inside the selector is still very new. It is even tighter if you are getting a new car.

4. Normal. Unless you REALLY know what you are doing, this one i advise you to leave it as it is. DIY may or may not solve this, it is a hit and miss thing. Dismantling the whole dashboard, when you install it back there will be a chance it will never be the same and even worst rattling. I let SC do my and it got worst. I refuse to try it anymore.

EXTRA* The following only applies if the car is serviced at SC all its life and the items below had still not being claimed.

TCU/ECU update which i believe must have been done(Recall item)

check the engine mounting, you deserve a new one from Proton if it is a 2012 model and are still using the old type. (Recall item)

The front driver and passenger seat can be claim.( if the seat fabric is furry from friction of your butt/tight getting in and out of car, the seat cushion is squashed out of the original shape, please claim a new one as you please )

Gear knob and handbrake lever (Recall item).

The cable harness of the radiator fan or some sort. (Recall item)
carbon14
post Jan 11 2015, 01:49 PM

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QUOTE(metaled @ Jan 11 2015, 01:26 PM)
I am driving a 2012 CFE/

1. Check your break pad, if it is still a-plenty, ask the SC give it a good blow with air gun. Still cant fix a new brake pad

2. This is normal. In very layman simple explanation CVT is going to "2nd gear", observe the RPM, it will drop like it is engaging to 2nd gear. You can replicate this using the paddle shifter masuk gear 1 accelerate then masuk gear 2. Accelerate from complete by selecting Gear 2 from your gear selector may eliminate this for a while before u need to shift to gear 3.

3. Normal. The mechanical rubber stuff inside the selector is still very new. It is even tighter if you are getting a new car.

4. Normal. Unless you REALLY know what you are doing, this one i advise you to leave it as it is. DIY may or may not solve this, it is a hit and miss thing. Dismantling the whole dashboard, when you install it back there will be a chance it will never be the same and even worst rattling. I let SC do my and it got worst. I refuse to try it anymore.

EXTRA* The following only applies if the car is serviced at SC all its life and the items below had still not being claimed.

TCU/ECU update which i believe must have been done(Recall item)

check the engine mounting, you deserve a new one from Proton  if it is a 2012 model and are still using the old type. (Recall item)

The front driver and passenger seat can be claim.( if the seat fabric is furry from friction of your butt/tight getting in and out of car, the seat cushion is squashed out of the original shape, please claim a new one as you please )

Gear knob and handbrake lever (Recall item).

The cable harness of the radiator fan or some sort. (Recall item)
*
Bro! Thanks a lot! Those were helpful tips. Right now I have a problem on claiming that damn warranty cause the previous owner did not hand over his service booklet. And he go pandai pandai change into 215/45/R7 rims plus even better. ALL TIRES WERE DIFFERENT BRAND. Goodness rclxub.gif Well the dealer said the previous owner was a uncle. doh.gif

Anyone have experience finding original Preve rims? How much they cost. I wonder if I can trade in mine. icon_question.gif

hong3831
post Jan 11 2015, 02:17 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 11 2015, 01:49 PM)
Bro! Thanks a lot! Those were helpful tips. Right now I have a problem on claiming that damn warranty cause the previous owner did not hand over his service booklet. And he go pandai pandai change into 215/45/R7 rims plus even better. ALL TIRES WERE DIFFERENT BRAND. Goodness  rclxub.gif  Well the dealer said the previous owner was a uncle.  doh.gif

Anyone have experience finding original Preve rims? How much they cost. I wonder if I can trade in mine.  icon_question.gif
*
Upgrade rim won't cause those issue.
anyway stock rim can find anyway, like mudah. Just rim itself should around 400 to 500 maybe.
carbon14
post Jan 11 2015, 02:23 PM

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QUOTE(hong3831 @ Jan 11 2015, 02:17 PM)
Upgrade rim won't cause those issue.
anyway stock rim can find anyway, like mudah. Just rim itself should around 400 to 500 maybe.
*
RM400 for whole set or just 1 rim? shocking.gif
dares
post Jan 11 2015, 02:28 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 11 2015, 02:23 PM)
RM400 for whole set or just 1 rim?  shocking.gif
*
http://www.mudah.my/Sport+Rim+Preve+5+luba...ci-31761545.htm

This post has been edited by dares: Jan 11 2015, 02:29 PM
metaled
post Jan 11 2015, 02:34 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 11 2015, 02:23 PM)
RM400 for whole set or just 1 rim?  shocking.gif
*
The whole set bro.

For all suspension related claim, its best to put in stock rim.

hong3831
post Jan 11 2015, 05:37 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 11 2015, 02:23 PM)
RM400 for whole set or just 1 rim?  shocking.gif
*
For whole set, if your current rim is well condition, take it to sell yourself. Might as well sell it same price like stock rim(RM400) so you just need to pay for tyre

Trade in to shop only get very low value.
carbon14
post Jan 11 2015, 06:14 PM

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Guys, what rim is this. 8 hole. Can fit back stock ah.

Measurement wise ita 215/45/R17


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hong3831
post Jan 11 2015, 08:29 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 11 2015, 06:14 PM)
Guys, what rim is this. 8 hole. Can fit back stock ah.

Measurement wise ita 215/45/R17
*
taiwan replica rim maybe~
you can always fit back to stock rim, but you need to change all tyre as well.
TS:3mushy:3
post Jan 11 2015, 09:18 PM

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Yeah, within three years, please refrain from selling your stock rims and tyres biggrin.gif

I've been thinking on 205/50/17 but the choices are severely scarce. Kinda hesitant to use Preve LE tyre profile. Btw what's Suprima stock profile?
hong3831
post Jan 11 2015, 09:32 PM

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QUOTE(:3mushy:3 @ Jan 11 2015, 09:18 PM)
Yeah, within three years, please refrain from selling your stock rims and tyres biggrin.gif

I've been thinking on 205/50/17 but the choices are severely scarce. Kinda hesitant to use Preve LE tyre profile. Btw what's Suprima stock profile?
*
Stock profile 214/45/17.
for me using 205 after upgrade to 17inch is pointless. Width same with stock.
We can either go for 215/45 or 225/45.
carbon14
post Jan 11 2015, 10:41 PM

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Yeah, if not previous owner change i wouldn't sell it. Now i plan to change it back to stock to claim warranty. Anybody know if previous owner lost booklet, can replace? They got computer records?
hong3831
post Jan 11 2015, 11:33 PM

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QUOTE(carbon14 @ Jan 11 2015, 10:41 PM)
Yeah, if not previous owner change i wouldn't sell it. Now i plan to change it back to stock to claim warranty. Anybody know if previous owner lost booklet, can replace? They got computer records?
*
sc should have your record by checking chassis.
fazryle
post Jan 12 2015, 08:01 AM

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QUOTE(hong3831 @ Jan 11 2015, 09:32 PM)
Stock profile 214/45/17.
for me using 205 after upgrade to 17inch is pointless. Width same with stock.
We can either go for 215/45 or 225/45.
*
225 can fit in?

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