i guess those who can buy after cny are those who haven't kahwin yet

just back to basic and stick with filco if you want worry free keyboard.
i talked to tech armory's boss and he told me the latest batch of ducky shine 3 series all have very high RMA rate means ducky cut cost for their ducky shine 4 and therefore the price drop for ducky shine 3.

Which set of imsto you bought ?

how much you bought ? and will you sell the grey ?

At first, I wanna give you a comprehensive answer, but seeing your ADHD, flip flop and attention seeking answers after that...

First of all, don't trust what you read. Everyone's feelings, like you said, is different. So why you wanna trust the words of some guy who is just trying to pad the wiki with words? Learn to differentiate the b/s with words that actually matter.

Topre and Cherry MX have two completely different mechanisms, actuation, response, and for the lack of a better word, texture. They don't call topre "Good feeling with cup rubber" for nothing.

Cherry MX actuates by the contact coming together in the MIDDLE of a downward stroke, and the contact is not infallible, in the sense that if there is vibration on the contact point, the gate will fluctuate between ON/OFF very quickly and have to be corrected with software. This situation (aka hysteresis) makes Cherry MX innately flawed. Fortunately, most of our usage scenario will never encounter this kind of situation (Airplanes, heavy machinery) so it's fine.

However, due to the design of the stems, for all non-linear switches, the actuation point is NOT at the same point where the feedback is given to the user (tactile point/clicky point). While the difference is only about 1-2mm, you can notice this if you try to press the switch very slowly or when you are semi-depressing the button (aka priming the switch for a faster response).

Topre, on the other hand, uses capacitive circuit detection. The difference in capacitance on the PCB is detected and then translated as an ON signal. If you look at the diagram of a Topre switch at work, you'll notice that the rubber membrane's structure is destroyed, causing the potential energy to be released and compressing the spring (which causes the change in capacitance). This means that the tactile response is the EXACT same moment as actuation, and eliminates the need to deal with hysteresis (also, the rubber membrane will absorb a large amount of the vibration anyway) creating an accurate tactile switch. The same accuracy is found on ALPS and on Buckling Spring.

So, this means that the "feeling" and response rate of the keypress is significantly different on Topre and Cherry MX, especially if you are a light touch typist.

ON the other hand, my personal experience is that Cherry MX feels like a robot, while Topre switches are "alive" because they REALLY bounce back at you when you press it.

Sekian, mohon anugerahkan "A+" untuk karangan saya.
!@#$%^&*()

Browns are scratchy reds, TYVM.

Also, buying Hyperfuse? #wink

there is few form taobao
http://s.taobao.com/search?q=filco+usb&js=...aobaoz_20150218

you were looking for case for moding right ?
http://s.taobao.com/search?q=Filco%D0%B5%B...ourceId=tb.item

Ya, sure it will impact for gaming as well in a good way.
But if you mention about gaming, I do recommend MX Red for FPS because can easily multi tap the keystroke, MX Brown or Blue for general like dotA2.

i am just giving you the link i too poor to own a filco only type at retailer 
its not that expensive from taobao 1 KG around rm13 plus 1 % fee for agent so  you dont have to bulk if buying from taobao

Guys, Happy Chinese New Year

i am using ducky shine 3 only
my 1st mech keybaord is Razer Black Widow > ducky shine 3 Mx Green than traded for MX REDS
and my B87 ergo clears on the way

Well, once you have heard of Autohotkey, you'll sing a different tune.

Of course, having fully customized layouts, keypresses and all your macros on the hardware layer then you'll sing a different tune.

What kind of features do a gaming keyboard have? 

First question, all the veterans will curious about..
Why you want to change it? 

Can you pull the keycap out and show us the picture of the "inserts" to the wire costar stabilisers?
It looks like the Right Shift do not mount the inserts to the costar stab.
You are the first like genuine Cherry stab I see in here. Most like costar or clipped-cherry.

Edit: Probably the inserts not hook to the wire of costar stab. No need RMA ya 

Actually I'm looking for image like this.


If the white color inserts hook properly to the wire like shown in the picture, your Right Shift key will be stabilized.
If not stabilized, mean not hook properly. 

darksilver, the wire is perfectly fine in your picture.
The procedure are
1. mount the inserts to the keycap
2. hook the inserts to wire.

Image of inserts to keycap and hooked to wire is below for reference purpose (costar stabilisers, in alps keyboard).

I'm sure you talking about Vortex Poker 2.
Ya, it's a good 60% with lots of modding options.

Actually, costar won't stuck, because it stabilised by the stabiliser with the 2 inserts. 

You can get synthetic grease like SuperLube if you want.
Lube it, so you can reduce the rattling sound.

Your case, because u installed the shift key wrongly on the stab.
Check your white inserts, because if you installed white insert reversely, your key will be stuck.
Not bullshit, I have experience in this and even others tried that before.

Those owner of romer G switch can kiss goodbye to those delicious MX keycaps