The older version is much better if the condition is OK. Just check the fold section and when you ride it doesn't move or creaks, then it's OK. I think when one post a price like 2.2K, they usually let go for 2K. Go for it if you like.

I can't even trust Dahon with it's patented folding latch for mountain trail riding, let alone Cronus! If you want to do MTB get a regular one, 26 inch wheelers are cheap nowadays. A new one like the Exitway Kosa (if you don't mind the brand) with a Suntour fork, 3x10 speed Shimano Deore groupset, hydraulic brakes, good tires and sealed bearing wheelset is now going on offer at RM1.7K only , BRAND NEW. The Deore groupset alone is already 1.2k if we buy from LBS The rest are almost a give away.

I recommend that because I have friends who rides with me who asked me to recommend but they choose others (maybe they think I get commission from Kimbell Jaya, hahaa ) One choose Trek Skye and the other a Cube. Both budget at 2K. Fair, but when they ride, they started to fiddle and then when discussing, the fork needs to be changed, the groupset needs to be upgraded (original is 3x8 for the Trek) etc. etc. Basically you buy the frame for 2K.

If you just plan to ride around your 'Taman' and join regular rides on the road, just get a 20 inch folding bike. Many noobies thinks that the 20 inch bikes are children's bike and it not possible to do a heavy workout and ride far. That's a wrong assumption. Get your priority right first, Tarmac OR OFFROAD .

Finally I saw one in BBS. He's selling a bit near to the selling price though.

http://bicyclebuysell.com/item/314654/dopp...dable-mini-velo

You should have a tire lever and also patches as well. What happens if someone who knows wants to help but neither of you have it? It could be just a passer by who 's not riding or another rider whose tools are with another partner rider. Be prepared is better.

Usually we carry only one spare inner tube but on unlucky days, one can experience 3 or more punctures in one ride. So, what do you do? We take out the patches and do the old fashion way lorr, we take out the tube and locate the puncture and patch it. In fact for bikes, especially those 6 or 7 speed bikes which don't have quick release, it's easier to patch than to change. Just pull out one side of the tire and pull out the inner tube and patch with the wheel still on the bike. Long time ago, nobody actually change tube, they patch. Bicycle shops of the olden days patches punctures rather than changing tube. Nowadays different loh! But still one needs to carry a patching kit, just in case.

Can be bought in Ace hardwares or Daiso even. Off course local bike shops (LBS).

Seems your budget a bit low actually to recommend a good one. You have 2 choices, One. You try looking for a good used one but nowadays , used ones are also over your budget. Even the entry level Dahon Route cost RM700 to RM800 for a used one and a Raleigh, the former owners wants RM600 to RM650 for it. Second choice is to get an Oscar Imagine. Maybe you can get it for less than RM500 from Kimbell Jaya. Get the aluminum models and don't get the steel model. It's a start and I am sure the bike will be enough to get your workout for the meantime.

That's actually Jalan Paip near Kg.Budiman. Nice! When I was still riding foldies, I always wanted to ride there but never did but when I switch to mountain bike, me and wife did ride there but in the palm oil plantations around there. Ironic huh? Actually joined the Bike Hash. You know somewhere there, atop a hill around some pineapple plantations ( Yes, there are pineapple plantation around there) there a shop or a 'warong' that serves fantastic pineapple juice.

I think Perez is tougher as it goes up and up and up and only return is down and down and then back to Sungai Lui another 10 km flats. Dragon backs are easier for me because if I don't brake going down, I can harness the energy to go up the next hill, at least half before I start to use energy to reach the apex and it goes on. Genting Sempah is steeper but shorter and it is also going up and up until the top. Master all these and Fraser's Hill is easy

This post has been edited by etigge: Sep 1 2015, 10:10 PM

A Dahon Vector P20 is about 6K if they import in. It's about USD1600. Look at the picture of the P20, see any difference apart from the gearings? Even the wheelset is almost the same and that's RM6000. If you get the Vigor for RM2.2K, add another 1K for modding to P20 specs, that's only 3.2K for a Vector P20. Almost 3K cheaper than one. Even a Dahon X27 or X30 is possible. The wheelset is only 1.5K extra.



This was mine until I sold it. Modded to the same specs as Vector P20 and even better with Deore brake levers and V-brakes. Also manage to get the extra front FD cable inside the tubing also.

Let me explain 20 inch (406) and 22 inch (451). The numbers in bracket is the figure in millimeters for the diameter of the rim where the bead of the tires rest. Both are classified as 20 inch just like the 16 inch rims where 349 is used for Bromptons and 305 for other models. Both are classified as 16 inch. First you have to consider what terrain are you using your bike? If it sometimes goes a little gravel roads or some slight offroading or into some fields, then 451 is not suitable as the tires are quite limited to slimmer or slicks (botak kind). They are meant for low resistance tires like road bikes. The less resistance compensates the same effort needed for a smaller 406 but off course a 406 with slick tires are much easier to pedal. There are pros and cons, eg.

When we were riding Sekinchan to Sungai Besar, we decided to use the coastal road hugging the beach and this road is like those in rubber estate, offroad! Those on slicks finds it more challenging and has to keep more attention to riding where else those on bigger 406 tires with bigger treads just cruise over it. Then when going through wet or muddy patches, 406 with bigger tires triumps over those on 451s due to the lack of treads on 451 tires. So, like I said, priority must be ascertain before you jump onto the wagon.

As for the choice of bikes, that's totally your choice. Again your priority, if budget is a constraint, then go for the Java. It seems to have everything but if you ride more seriously and join other groups, I can bet you that you will eventually change as you improve. It's not a bad bike, even XDS also copied their design. But Dahon is more expensive for a reason. The MU is a proven frame compared to the Vigor, in fact the dolphin design of the MU is the most copied design by other makes. Java FIT on the other hand, IMO, has disc brakes which have lower performing brakes than the V-brakes of the Dahons (most mechanical disc brakes are anyway), have much wider fold, hard to put it in a bag, shorter wheelbase which makes riding more twitchy (but can be gotten used to) , a wider front fork as it uses 100 mm hubs and much heavier. Dahon Vigor has a conventional chain stay which makes the frame stronger and also the geometry a better ride though. The best is still the Dahon Speed. Even Joshua Hon from Tern claims that before.

I suggest you just buy one on impulse and ride, only then you can understand what it feels like and where your priority lies. Before that, whatever we say here doesn't really mean much. I have on so many instances suggest something but when they head to a local bike shop, they go for another. It makes it easier to change bike if you go for Dahon because later stages if you want to change, regardless of whether it is a mountain bike, roadbike or better foldie, it's easier to sell.

This post has been edited by etigge: Sep 3 2015, 01:09 AM

+1

The older version in red is still available in Kimbell Jaya but not Taiwan made as per circa 2011 but made in China. The newer green/white is actually the same chromoly frame, only colour different. Better tires also with Schwalbe Marathons.

Not really lah, I am a retired chef. Bike repairs are not really my bread and butter. I just provide services out of passion but many tends to treat me like a shop doing business so I only do if I wish. Many don't really appreciate it and also just because I ask for some compensation like for grease/oil and parts payment, I am like doing business. The little tube of Finish Line lub cost me RM45 too, you know. My wife has been warning me to either stop doing or charge accordingly so I decided to quit.

PS/ I was also a boatyard manager before in Langkawi so technical items fascinates me. I was a mountain biker there and repairing and assembling bikes becomes simple to me. You just need to understand the theory of the components. I started when I bought a Dahon Eco C7 and wanted more gears on it. I took to a shop in Bdr Mahkota Cheras and the shop keeper said it cannot be done and started telling a whole load of bull! So, I bought a set of tools and started doing my bike and I managed to put in 27 speed onto my Eco C7. Then my wife's Boardwalk also got the same treatment and we travelled places with it. That's how I started to understand folding bikes. Those times, nobody ever modded foldies before and many shop thinks it cannot be done and should not even be done. Another good modder is Fei Lee from GW Cycle but he charges high fees for modding, I mean it is just fair right? It's a specialised field.

Other than that, most good modders are DIYs. Bike shops don't really have the time to actually find ways to do this or do that. And many shops are handled by foreigners anyway. So, when other riders sees what I did, some wanted too so that's how it started.But I think if you are serious in riding, you should also get a tool set and start fiddling. It's not rocket science actually.

For the sake of knowledge, let's say if I start something like coaching, anyone interested. Complete dis-assemble the whole bike and then assemble it back. That way the A to Z of bike maintenance in all inclusive.

This post has been edited by etigge: Sep 3 2015, 02:36 AM

I agree with you regarding the comparisons but folding bikes were meant for commuting and was never meant for long distance touring and also never meant for hill climbing. Although it is possible and it's a challenge for many to do so, it really doesn't hurt in fact it should be encouraged. Off course, the FIT will be favoured if you test it but that's for the wrong assumption. Just like the Dahon Boardwalk, it uses 52 chainring in the former models and lately they switched it to only 48T. This means the ride will always be lighter and many newbies perceived it as an improvement because it is easy to pedal as it was lighter pedalling effort. What they don't realize it was the gear ratios that made it lighter and the bike moves slower than before. You know 48T , one revolution means 4.36 turns at the rear (let's say if you are using 11T at the rear) compared to 52T which turns 4.72 turns. The figure looks small and seems negligible but when you are doing it 80 times per minute ( this is cadence) that's 28.8 turns per minute and if you ride 30 minutes that's 864 turns that you lost to the 52T crank. That my friend is, ) assuming it is a 406 tire with 1.5 inch width, the circumference of the tire is 1.54 meters, this is per revolution ) 864 turns which means 1.33 kilometers for the same revolution.

Too technical already My opinion is, it is better to start riding hard and progress rather than start easy and never progress as it will get harder and harder. Eg. in my case, I started on 7 speed. Changed gear furiously when doing Putrajaya Lake 12 km loop. Later started to change less and after 3 months it gear was stuck to 15T at the rear and never changed, then do 2 loops or go over the bridge to the Aquatic Center side to complete 20 km.
Then I moved to triple chainring and it became too easy and started moving to other venues like Genting Perez, Genting Sempah and finally Fraser's Hill. If you start with an 18 speed, you will never increase your pedal effort as the lighter gears are all there. Once you hit a harder slope, the 18 speed won't be enough as you are so used to using it on a flat.

If you are riding with a permanent partner, make sure both bikes are the same specs. This will assure that both will advance equally. if not in later stages , the lesser one will slow down the other.

First rule is comfort when riding. That means, the contact points which are your saddle, bar grips and pedals, in that order. Once your butt ache, that's practically the end of your ride for that day. It will take some time to ease the pain. So, get suitable saddle. Sadly, in our country, you cannot return your saddle if it is not right. In my case, I have bought 7 saddles except Brooks (why I still can't comprehend) already. Started with Selle Royal , those big big ones (thought they are comfy but are not) , then slimmer ones and then Fizik Gobi, then Morgaw Trium , then back to Selle Royal Dardo and then finally I got one that suits me, A CHEAP 50 BUCKS one. I bought 3 of those and keep. So now I have a whole bike of expensive components but a 50 bucks saddle

Contact also means a good riding gloves. Yes, gloves are not only for protection but also for grip easing so you won't get numb!

Though many do not follow what I have said, I have always stress to new riders to start with a good frame. That's the paramount criteria IF you are serious in riding for long. I say that because there are many who are just 'tahi tahi ayam' kind of riders. They just conform to others without actually getting involved. Once you have a strong and good frame, it doesn't matter if the upgraded components cost twice or thrice or even quadraple the cost of the initial bike. Good components cost a lot and the very reason is durability and precision. You don't want to go riding and then halfway problems crops up. Of course this doesn't apply to 'taman riders'.

A branded entry bike rides better with good components than a 'so so' all have' bike. But bike companies do not really want to put good components as many use price as their main attraction factor. So, they just 'OEM'ed outdated or discontinued parts in bulk and incorporate into their lineup. This is to make price attractive but still the price is high if compared to the same specs. Sadly, here in Malaysia, there are still NO custom builders for foldies where frames and components are sold separately. What we do is just get the best and cheapest good frame and start with it.

Even if you change frame, the good components stays with you. As I did with mine long ago. When I wanted to change the Eco C7 to Speed P8, I took out all the new components from the Speed P8 and assembled on the Eco C7 and vice versa, The Eco C7 can still be sold for the price I bought new as Speed P8 components are better than the original. Another alternative is keep all the new components and assemble them back when you want to sell them.

It really makes a lot of difference when you ride and your bike works perfectly. Good components stay better tuned longer than the entry level components. Doesn't it make sense to use them if you don't know how to repair and depends on a local bike shop to tune and service the bike. It's a one time investment. If you use a Dahon and upgrade to the max, the price still won't be higher than a Birdy with stock components which are entry level. Or a Brompton which the price has now gone to almost 8K already. A Dahon Route with 2 x 10 Shimano 105 roadbike components and sealed bearing hubs will most definitely ride smoother than the boutique bikes ( a term I coined for those expensive bikes ). And this is just mid range and even if you take the best Dura Ace components, the price is just about the same. IMO, I rather have top components and mediocre frame and fork than a top range frame with lousy components.

This post has been edited by etigge: Sep 5 2015, 11:08 AM

Who is Tommy? According to Kimbell Jaya, the IOS has brake problems. The hydraulic disc brake ( Yes, hydraulic ) is problematic. Jimmy replaced a Shimano set for the one he sold the other day. No extra charge.

Comfort tires are usually those using low pressure ( 50 psi to 80 psi ) and are usually treaded and wider. Duranos are made for speed, hence the 1.1 inch width, just like the Panaracer Minits which is even narrower at 1.0 inch. These tires are so thin and narrow, they need a higher pressure (usually 100 psi) to support the riders weight and these made them very bumpy and harsh. There are in between models like the Schwalbe Marathons which are made to last longer (harder compound) and slightly treaded. They are 1.6 inch width with puncture resistant layer. Puncture resistant doesn't mean it won't puncture, OK Just that it can withstand smaller elements that can puncture a tire.

If you want a faster Schwalbe Marathons, there's a Marathon Racer which is 1.5 inch wide and treaded more. This one makes the Marathons complete together with the Supreme and Plus.

For real comfort go for the Schwalbe Big Apple. Real comfort but a hefty 2.0 inch wide. Makes resistance a bit more but can absorbs bumps better. Other option is the Maxxis DTH that comes in 1.75 inch and 1.95 inch. Heavily treaded and actually made for BMX bikes but usable in foldies. This sticks to the road like glue because of the heavy treads. Also be prepared to push harder lah on the road. There's no one for all kind of tire lah! Still the same, priority still reigns !

Schwalbes are getting really expensive nowadays. The Marathons are all over 100 bucks each nowadays. My guess is, they will get more expensive as we near October where news is, price of everything is GOING UP !

Puncture resistant is just a blue layer at the base to thicken the base so short pointed materials won't reach the inner tube. Actually if you take duct tape and put a few layer at the base of the tires to thicken the base before putting in the inner tubes, it has the same effect. Only advantage off Schwalbe is the material is light and won't smear adhesive all over the tires when it gets heated while riding. Last time when I used Maxxis DTH, it got worn off till 50 percent and went a bit soft. I get a lot of punctures from that condition and even small grain of sand can puncture the tire so I stuck 4 layers, 1st layer about 1 cm, second layer 1/2 cm wider and third and fourth layer 4 cm wide. It works

Difference between folding and non folding is, folding ones has kevlar beads ( the hard rim around the tires ) and non folding has wire beads. Beads are where the part touches the rim. Kevlar are off course stronger and lighter and also it is easier to keep a spare in your bag for touring or long distance riding. They do not affect the prone-ness to get punctured. Biggest difference is off course, kevlar folding tires are very much expensive.

Double or triple chain ring can be installed in most if not all bicycles. More important is " Mau ka Tak Mau ! ". Tern Verge X10 is a good bike. Better go get one now before the price go up in October. Hahahaaa.