This is what was completed some time ago:

All parts (except clear blue) were sprayed with Mr Colour Ueno Black, then Gaia Starbright Silver and finally with Mr Hobby GX Clear Gold, Blue and Black respectively.
Stickers were also used for the blue parts on the shield psychoframe.
Clear blue parts (except the chest) was 'coloured' with Neon sharpie

Thanks
First time trying 'candy' colour method. But, does not look like 'candy' to me

Yes, got. It's GX-111 Clear series. As if I am not mistaken, they also have 'normal' GX and Metallic GX.

This is another of my simple build.
Just colour a bit of grey using gundam marker on the legs and use option water slide decal from bandai. Then use matt top coat.
Still noob in using water slide decal as some of them actually got teared and missing












This post has been edited by cacin: Dec 17 2014, 08:08 AM

I think, you don't need to stick to one brand of hobby paint because each of them have the colour you need
If you notice, I actually use different brand too since the Phenex was using mr hobby and gaia.
Other than that, I also have a little bit of valejo and games workshop (Citadel) colours too.
Need to decide which one is more convenient to use at the time

These are my WIP.
You can see some brush stroke
Gold: Citadel Auric Aumour Gold
Silver: Citadel Runefang Steel or Valejo Chrome
Black: Citadel Abbadon Black or Mr Hobby Ueno Black.
Bronze: Valejo Rust.
Grey: Mr Hobby MS Zeon's Grey











In case you're wondering what kit is this. This time, not yet coloured. Just a quick assembly to see the size

Ok. I'll take note on that when I finally build the RG Zaku

Some photos:

Black then Flourescent green



With UV/blacklight on.



Still have not coloured yet the Banshee.



Frame arms Revenent Eye with Matt top coat only.



Neon Sharpie, with blacklight

Looks nice

Yeah, RG have a really big risk on losing parts. . . since quite a few of them are very small.

Yeah, got the First RG. . .and manage to broke the knee/leg part. . . Now cannot stand nicely

Lol, I'll share it once I take the pic


I think, for HG, the one that is 'big' enough would be from the Unicorn series.


By the way, I think I saw somewhere that you can also remove nub marks by using real touch marker after cutting/trimming as near as possible.
The white plastic that's left can be coloured with suitable coloured real touch marker. I think there are a total of 11 or 12 colours for real touch.
I actually use the grey and black one for panel lines

This post has been edited by cacin: Dec 30 2014, 08:00 AM

Decal/sticker comes with most kits.
It's just depending on what Bandai decide to provide

By the way, bandai also have water slide decals that can be purchased separately for some kits.
If you can't find one, popular kits also have decals from 3rd party manufacturer.

I think what boonhoong mean is that you need gloss surface for the eraser method to work. Since most unpainted gundam have gloss surface.

for painted one, I think can use real touch marker or enamel wash.

Hi,
You can try ask Red Comet in level 4 prangin mall. The parkson side.

Another place is Modelland. This one is on the way to 1st Avenue from the Jelutong expressway. (not sure what is the name of the road)
You can try google for the exact location. They only open at night though during weekdays.

Eh? I talked to one of the guy in Red Comet, somehow, he is indicating that they will assemble.
As, if not, how to airbrush once assembled?

You maybe can also try GWING at level 3 prangin. Should be same area as the prangin ice cream/dessert area (level 1), but at level 3.

Hi bro.
I went to red comet yesterday. Talked to Kitt.
He mention that they will assemble for you the model. This would make the airbrushing easier for them.
The cost for a MG Wing size gundam should be rm300.
MG Sazabi KA would costs RM500.
Custom colours are allowed. You need to tell them what custom colour you want.

If you want just OOB assembly and no painting, Han from GWING at level 3 prangin might be able to do it.
I did not ask about the charges though.

Hope this helps.

nicely done

I think, you can use clear coat to protect them while they are still white.

For those that already turned yellow, Mr base white will make it more rough surface. As it is meant to be something like a primer too.

I am not sure whether it will turn yellowish or not over time.

Completing the paint on the SD Banshee as previously, only painted the head
I know the paint job is not 'smooth', but I actually wanted to have that look.
So that it has a mix of metallic blue and black visible.

Used:
1. Mr Finishing Surfacer black spray can on all the dark coloured parts before hand paint.

Hand Paint:
2. Citadel runefang steel - head vulcan, thrusters and eyes
3. Citadel balthasar gold - on gold colour parts
4. Citadel Auric armour gold. - on top of balthasar gold and on the skirt vents.
5. Tamiya X13 Metallic Blue. - Dark coloured parts
6. Tamiya X-27 Clear Red - on eyes
6. Mr Hobby UG05 MS UNT's Grey - on backpack.









Compared to the SD Gold Frame


This post has been edited by cacin: Jan 12 2015, 09:22 AM

hahahaha
Yeah, was wondering why such a small shield.
But, maybe, the he's that good that he can do pin point shielding

Ok. So it makes sense for people like me that do not know the full history since the 'normal' gundam is a RX-78-2. Hence they change the arm guard to become a shield?

Thanks guys

When look at previous meijin's machine, this looks like have less armaments.
The Amazing Zaku and Kampfer have lots of weapons .

wow, it's like you are on a rampage
planning on completing 3 kits in 1 day?