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 LYN Proton Saga/Iswara Driver's Thread! V28, Keep on Keeping on!

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Albert B
post Jul 15 2018, 09:11 PM

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QUOTE(smwah @ Jul 15 2018, 05:24 PM)
Guys what is this item it was broken my car crank but enable to start, room shoot high.
...
I think it is called a thermostatic vacuum switching valve (TVSV)
or thermo valve for emissions, maybe to alter mixture settings,
EGR etc according to engine temperature.


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Albert B
post Jul 15 2018, 09:15 PM

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QUOTE(Tham @ Jul 15 2018, 04:09 PM)
The number of steps look very difficult.

I had better not touch it.

Amir Khan said the O-rings might have hardened, leaking some fuel,
making the fuel rich and increasing fuel consumption.

Do you think the O-rings might have hardened by this time ?
*
It is possible, as now my fuel economy hovers
around 10 - 11 km/litre. It was at 14 km/litre when new.

If I remember correctly, Amir Khan's description
of doing the O rings is not difficult.

Perhaps you could just remove the plug+cap and then
the jet (without removing the cap, and thus no
adjustments of screw) just to access the rings. Remove
the pin (stop screw) and the spring will pop the main
jet out. But doing it with the carb in the car may be
strenuous.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jul 15 2018, 10:25 PM


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diversity
post Jul 16 2018, 10:01 AM

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saga iswara auto need to change transmission filter??
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 16 2018, 11:14 PM

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QUOTE(diversity @ Jul 16 2018, 10:01 AM)
saga iswara auto need to change transmission filter??
*
every 2nd or 3rd ATF changes
Albert B
post Jul 20 2018, 10:03 AM

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Any members here can share their experience
on the Puspakom 4-point inspection for vehicle
ownership transfer?

Any horror stories on the damage to the rubber seal
plastic cover for the 'potong' inspection?

And also the likelihood the tinting will fail, and stories
of having to remove the tint before the test?

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jul 20 2018, 10:14 AM
amirkhan
post Jul 21 2018, 02:40 AM

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QUOTE(Tham @ Jul 15 2018, 04:09 PM)
The number of steps look very difficult.

I had better not touch it.

Amir Khan said the O-rings might have hardened, leaking some fuel,
making the fuel rich and increasing fuel consumption.

Do you think the O-rings might have hardened by this time ?
*
Tham removing the cap is not hard even without removing the carb , just remove the air box and then you will have enough room in the back of carb to remove the plug with appropriate wrench then you can remove the cap .
But if your are going to change those orings on main jet it would be difficult with carb in place it is possible but you should take it slowly and very carefully .
You should remove the idle screw totally , remove the main jet plug then just under the idle screw and on the carb body there is very very tiny screw which holds the main jet in place by . There is a groove on the main jet which is aligned to the body of the carb and this screw hold it .
Be careful removing this screw as this screw is very tiny and there is also very tiny gasket under it .
When loosening this screw you should also have an eye on the main jet as when this screw is fully loosened the main jet may jump out cause there is powerful spring behind it .
You can do it in place as i have done it many times but you would better doing it off the carb and remove the carb which is lot easier for you as you have not done it before .
Albert B
post Jul 21 2018, 09:48 AM

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Tham
As described by Amir Khan, if you are just taking out
the main jet for the O rings, it is not complicated.
(see below).

The only thing I foresee is that it could be strenuous
for your back if you are doing it without removing
the carb from the car (which involves hoses, linkages etc.).

Re-edit: on examining the space, I don't think there is a
possibility of removing the tiny screw without removing the
idle screw above it. Hence the idle screw may have to be
marked before removal.

This post has been edited by Albert B: Jul 23 2018, 06:41 PM


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alexkos
post Jul 21 2018, 12:16 PM

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want to check, for iswara 14" Michelin tyre…..the tension is how much ah? front 210 rear 200?
alexkos
post Jul 21 2018, 12:26 PM

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QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 14 2018, 04:23 PM)
If there are oil leaks at many places, one of the
possible causes is the PCV system has malfunctioned.
This is my experience for old cars, and is worth checking
as this can be easily done by DIY.

(1) Check the PCV valve, as per instructions below.
Check also the rubber hose going to the intake
manifold is not blocked.

(2) Open the air filter box and see if the outlet/inlet
of the breather hose to the rocker cover is wet with oil.
(Some oil may be present on the underside of the filter.)
As in (1) above, check the rubber hose.
*
thx bro. seems complicated for me to operate =(

I will highlight it to my foreman, thanks again.


some photos...

the green arrow, the area beneath....basah…..ayam sadding….con car?

no sign of leaking on ground, yet.

I own this second hand car for less than one month.


This post has been edited by alexkos: Jul 21 2018, 12:27 PM


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alexkos
post Jul 21 2018, 12:30 PM

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you know, when I drive the car, after after driving it, I park the car, and when I mati engine, there is around one second where the engine is trying to mati (sounds like gasping for air).

How to diagnose the problem?
darjana
post Jul 22 2018, 05:28 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Jul 21 2018, 12:30 PM)
you know, when I drive the car, after after driving it, I park the car, and when I mati engine, there is around one second where the engine is trying to mati (sounds like gasping for air).

How to diagnose the problem?
*
https://www.thestudentroom.co.uk/showthread.php?t=3877499


last time it happens to my car if i go on long travel. eg penang<>ipoh. after i changed the intake to custom, the problem fixed.


NoNameSake
post Jul 22 2018, 05:49 PM

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QUOTE(alexkos @ Jul 21 2018, 12:26 PM)
thx bro. seems complicated for me to operate =(

I will highlight it to my foreman, thanks again.
some photos...

the green arrow, the area beneath....basah…..ayam sadding….con car?

no sign of leaking on ground, yet.

I own this second hand car for less than one month.
*
happen to me once, the problem cause from the distributor O-ring (inside the distributor), the rubber become hard, change that then no more leaking
luvingstar
post Jul 23 2018, 05:10 PM

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Dear Sifus, i owned a iswara Auto 1.5 year 2001~
When the car started to move, from gear 1 to gear 2 there is working fine, but then when gear 2 to gear 3, there's is High rev before shift to gear 3? Any sifus know what's the problem?
TRAZE99
post Jul 24 2018, 12:36 AM

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Hey guy ,how to remove old saga lmst alarm control module and use 3th party alarm.my original alarm sudah rosak,so try to diy potong sambung wire to new 3th party alarm.sifu sifu tolong.thanks
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 24 2018, 02:01 AM

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QUOTE(luvingstar @ Jul 23 2018, 05:10 PM)
Dear Sifus, i owned a iswara Auto 1.5 year 2001~
When the car started to move, from gear 1 to gear 2 there is working fine, but then when gear 2 to gear 3, there's is High rev before shift to gear 3? Any sifus know what's the problem?
*
Clutch slipping, change ATF and try few solutions such as KW trans x high mileage stop slip, and monitor.

If all else fails, consider recond gear box, or half cut or rebuild.
luvingstar
post Jul 24 2018, 03:26 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 24 2018, 02:01 AM)
Clutch slipping, change ATF and try few solutions such as KW trans x high mileage stop slip, and monitor.

If all else fails, consider recond gear box, or half cut or rebuild.
*
Thanks Sifu~but can i know what is KW trans x high mileage?
TSQuazacolt
post Jul 24 2018, 04:13 PM

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QUOTE(luvingstar @ Jul 24 2018, 03:26 PM)
Thanks Sifu~but can i know what is KW trans x high mileage?
*
im not sifu

http://www.crcindustries.com/products/tran...z-402916x6.html

https://www.amazon.com/402916x6-Trans-X-Aut...t/dp/B000M8IH3W

price between RM45-60
Shawnzz
post Jul 25 2018, 07:09 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jul 9 2018, 02:10 AM)
1) no, base stocks.
2) additives
3) there are many reasons and "assuming the = they", i would say many nay sayers, myths, tell tales, he/she says.
the more prominent reason is the detergent/additives in fully synthetic cleaning away gunk and said gunk being previously plugging your leak, being gone = result in leak. then, there's the possibility of PAO or Ester shrinking or enlarging seals. (group 4/5 respectively)
4) viscosity, and no, synthetic actually have better flow rates due to better viscosity indexes.
*
damn.. so much to learn about oils.. giving up... just gonna buy reputable brand with decent price. kaotim. life is good rclxs0.gif

btw, i did some modifications to my ride. Got myself a new exhaust system. 4-2-1 exhaust header, 1.8inch piping, and 2inch inlet straight flow modelista muffler from toyota estima ACR30.

after that, went to calibrate my AFR with a lamda sensor. play abit with ignition timing, and now the current setup is lean tune. Getting 14km/l with this setup. 630km full tank for 45 Liter. Normal driving, no hypermiling btw.. But top speed didn't exceed 130km/h la..

cruising afr: 15-16
WOT afr: 12.6-14
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

TSQuazacolt
post Jul 25 2018, 08:42 PM

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QUOTE(Shawnzz @ Jul 25 2018, 07:09 PM)
i did some modifications to my ride. Got myself a new exhaust system. 4-2-1 exhaust header, 1.8inch piping, and 2inch inlet straight flow modelista muffler from toyota estima ACR30.

after that, went to calibrate my AFR with a lamda sensor. play abit with ignition timing, and now the current setup is lean tune. Getting 14km/l with this setup. 630km full tank for 45 Liter.  Normal driving, no hypermiling btw.. But top speed didn't exceed 130km/h la.. 

cruising afr: 15-16
WOT afr: 12.6-14
» Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... «

*
Awesome bro!

I'm still pending a Dyno since my previous rebuild lol

That's long overdue since January 2016 lol

Getting only 8 to 11 km/l sad.gif
SUSTham
post Jul 26 2018, 07:03 PM

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QUOTE(amirkhan @ Jul 20 2018, 06:40 PM)
Tham removing the cap is not hard even without removing the carb , just remove the air box and then you will have enough room in the back of carb to remove the plug with appropriate wrench then you can remove the cap .
But if your are going to change those orings on main jet it would be difficult with carb in place it is possible but you should take it slowly and very carefully .
You should remove the idle screw totally , remove the main jet plug then  just under the idle screw and on the carb body there is very very tiny screw which holds the main jet in place by . There is a groove on the main jet which is aligned to the body of the carb and this screw hold it .
Be careful removing this screw as this screw is very tiny and there is also very tiny gasket under it .
When loosening this screw you should also have an eye on the main jet as when this screw is fully loosened the main jet may jump out cause there is powerful spring behind it .
You can do it in place as i have done it many times but you would better doing it off the carb and remove the carb which is lot easier for you as you have not done it before .
*
QUOTE(Albert B @ Jul 21 2018, 01:48 AM)
Tham
As described by Amir Khan, if you are just taking out
the main jet for the O rings, it is not complicated.
(see below).

The only thing I foresee is that it could be strenuous
for your back if you are doing it  without removing
the carb from the car (which involves hoses, linkages etc.).

Re-edit: on examining the space, I don't think there is a
possibility of removing the tiny screw without removing the
idle screw above it. Hence the idle screw may have to be
marked before removal.
*
Thanks, Amir Khan and Albert.

Yes, that's the trouble with these front wheel drive cars.

Extremely difficult to access many parts of the engine,
especially the carburettor.

I only managed to see that tight cap covering the main jet screw
with a mirror placed behind it.


With a rear wheel drive, you can see everything and easily
take out all those screws from the side.

It's almost impossible to see anything, let alone take out
all those tiny screws, gaskets and springs with the carb
facing that tight space with the firewall.


The moment you loosen it, the tiny o-rings, gaskets and spring
are all bound to fly out behind to nowhere.

It seems you need special tools to remove the tamperproof caps
for both the idle and main jets ?

The seem to be three o-rings.

What are their sizes and thicknesses ?



This post has been edited by Tham: Jul 26 2018, 07:08 PM

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