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Guys, I would like to share with you all a simple DIY to remove the rust at the front cross member behind the front bumper. In this DIY you need to remove the whole bumper assembly to have access to the rusted area.
The rust was caused by the rubbing of the bumper support against the cross member and overtime the paint and antirust gets rubbed off. During my 1st time removing the front bumper the rust was not that much but this time again I remove the front bumper the rust has gotten worse and spread to larger area so in order to remove the rust once an for all. You can do this.

Removing the bumper is not a difficult task at all. Just remove all the upper radiator clip and the clip behind the no plate, the bottom bumper  10mm bolts 6 of them, then 2 more 10mm bolts at the wheel guard where the side fender meet the front bumper and the 2 plastic screw lock.

After you remove the bumper you will see the cross member. The rusted part is now visible to you.
This is the rusted place.


Clean, sand and dry the rusted area. Then get a masking tape and mask a square around the place.


After that spray the repair area with spray paint. Any colour will do since it will not be visible at all. Spray a few layers then let it dry


After dry remove the masking tape.


I went a step further to eliminate the chances of the rust coming back again by cutting up a piece of thin rubberish Superlon type of material to cover the painted area. I use industrial grade 3M adhesive to stick it to the cross member.


After that, I use a cutter/scissors to cut back the hole that is use to secure the plastic clip behind the no plate.


Finish. This problem is on my FLX so I don't know if BLM also have this problem. Some might find the rust is very small and wont bother to do it or not worth doing it. It's all up to personal decision for me its just I can't stand the sight of rust on car body.

Here's what's next. After 2 years+ of ownership with my BLM, trying so hard to improve its throttle response, now that I came to a solid conclusion after witnessing several GaGa in the attempt of "increase horse power" on a dyno machine.

The stock 4-1 manifold is indeed too short before hitting the catcon. Hence exhaust flow was blocked due to conflict of cylinder purge. Anyone who change their exhaust manifold to after market performance extractor will indeed restore some horse power, we're looking @ about 5-10 wheel horse power! If u have an idea of tuning a normal aspirated engine, each wheel horse power gain is a thousand dollar investment! Have seen most if not all Campro S4PE running on standard extractor below 80whp, some worst below 70whp. Whereas many other S4PE who replaced their extractor to after market had a significant power restored to 80 & above. So far the highest power dyno output I've seen is 95.5whp & 95whp. Both of them are our forum member.

When u ask for decat, the 1st thing in mind is environment & polution. Frankly, I do not encourage removal of catcon. So my next big thing is, after installation of after market performance extractor, I'm going to put back a catcon to see how much power loss after the 5-10whp restoration. If after catcon can still bring me back to 80whp region, I'm more than happy to keep it that way as a tree hugger.

Finally, the significant of 4-2-1 & 4-1 extractor. Sadly, what I believed all these while was partially untruth & no opportunity to make comparison between the 2 evil on a same car(who would wanna have 2 sets of extractor on a same car just to dyno for the truth). Anyway, some comparison was done between similar layout of vehicle with similar mods has been done. So here's the truth, 2 B16A was tested on the same day.

Specimen A) HKS green mushroom with Spoon sausage intake ram, Mugen 4-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Spoon S-flow, yielded 142whp with drastic jump on vtec opening on stock ECU.

Specimen B) Spoon sport drop in filter, TODA 4-2-1, hotbits bullet, 2" piping & Fujitsubo chambered muffler, yielded 143whp with slightly smoother vetc opening on stock ECU.

I have no picture to show u as owners preferred stay anonymous for their security reasons. Anyways, the comparison between the 2 EGs are on the same dyno platform. The result shown 4-1 extractor has less initial power output due to conflict of exhaust purge I believe. However, once rpm raise to 4k, torque curve for 4-1 improved significantly better than 4-2-1 due to straight output with less joints. Whilst 4-2-1 slowly catching up by 6krpm, both car show similar power curve 1 stays @ 142, another @ 143. I wouldn't know whether the chambered muffler has restricted exhaust flow from 4-2-1 or the Spoon S-flow helps on the big jump of vtec gain for 4-1 extractor.

My conclusion is, either way they should yield similar output where 4-1 give much better mid/high end power, whereas 4-2-1 is generally smoother & steady output system. I going to work with 4-2-1 and show u my dyno chart once its done. And the follow up action will be having catcon & decat comparison. Have a good day.