Hello guys,

anyone heard of RDS pro subwoofer before?
isit good? what's the rating?
is it international or local product?
what's the price range?

any comments?

local or china product that copies a/d/s
not really recommend by me

anyone knows the specs of it?

it's a chapalang brand.. who would know.. even if there is.. it wouldn't meet the standard..

Get the vendor use meter to test the RMS does it meet the value as specify on the amp. Many of China or local product doesn't meet. Also test out the duration of the performance. Some amp get overheat easily, and the quality will drop after some duration of continue operation.

i doubt they will have the equipement to measure the RMS power
even KF, KKLau, ACP also dun have it

threadstarter,
kindly state ur budget and ur music preference and also ur current setup so that we can guide u to the right path

This post has been edited by driftmeister: Sep 4 2006, 05:30 PM

If i ain't mistaken, RMS power is just the capability of the voice coil to take in the amount of heat produced by the increased power, the better the capability of the voice coil to dissipate the heat, the higher the RMS rating, but u might be wrong though

There's not many ppl who would invest in machines that actually measure RMS power(if not mistaken, it doesn't even exist, the value is taken into play by calculation), as well, we don't listen to sine waves all day long, we listen to music, which fluctuates in terms of power being sent to the speakers, so... there's no FIXED value at all.

that equipment to test impedance (OHM) of the speakers.. i know larhh but then to test the RMS.. never hear b4..

This post has been edited by mattchin: Sep 5 2006, 01:43 AM

Testing of the DCR kinda serves no point, any multimeter that's accurate enough would be able to get the DCR.

Yes RMS come from calculation. It would be the most accurate way to measure power is RMS (root mean square) watts.

The RMS value is obtained by squaring the value of the signal, taking the average, then the square root. This is the equivalent of the actual power delivered. Most reputable manufacturers use the RMS rating.

To get RMS power from peak or max power just divide by three. Music power is just half of peak power. For example, an amplifier is rated at 100w (peak) per channel. The so called Music power would be only 50w per channel. The RMS power would be 33w per channel. Big difference, isn't it?

Just be careful when checking specifications of amps before buying, to see what you are really getting. Always ask for the RMS power of an amplifier.

this brand sounds familiar. if im not mistaken an installer in subang offered me this sub when i installed my agako monoblock with him... the bugger even offered me a 15" for my kelisa!!

anyway...according to him RDS is from the same makers of agako and prokick. so i guess it aint a copy of a/d/s. meaning theyre a local brand...local but good.

my guess is this should be the same brand sub used (paired with the Agako EG-3000D monoblock) that helped them win SPL competitions.

if RDS is from the same makers as agako and prokick and if ur willing to give it a try...i say go ahead as agako and prokick maybe local...but theyre certainly badass

ok... cause i got this woofer from my friend but i dont know the specs, so im not sure what amp can be used to power this woofer fully loh

that's why im asking if anyone knows the spec of this sub woofer or not

they're crap

yarhh... 2 win a competition very easy 1.. company A said i will sponsor ur club for certain thing and u gimme a champion.. OK? and OK it is.. anyway.. not sure how this thing works larhh..

i don blif in chapalang woofers..

though u can check how many voice coils u haf then u might b knowing how much is ur woofer's impedance.. then how many rms u wanna whack ur woofer.. cash out for the most powerful amp.. sure can 1 larh like that..

1stly:
1st of all thanks for all the reply, at least im learning something

2ndly:
wah liu...... bro, bo lui for good amp loh, since this sub is only low-->mid range ones, i plan to get 2nd average quality amp to drive it loh, budget around 300-400

if amp too keng, can burn the sub ah? i mean if not tuned properly or too much power to the sub or something like that, sorry im still newbie.

im still in dilemma now cause i dont even know the sub specs; eg ohm, watt, etc etc.

tho i might still a newbie in ice, but with at least with the specs i can ask ppl around what amp that is suitable to power the sub

send someone to help me please!!

This post has been edited by CaLz: Sep 7 2006, 01:21 AM

sigh..

actually 2 channel amplifier wif around 300+- rms can whack any woofer.. o a monoblock amp also can..

u can try 2 take a pic 2 larhh.. maybe some tai ko here might know lorhh..

btw.. the (inches)" of the woofer also u didn't write.. and wat will u do after knowing the specs?

not sure where rds come from, but it's quite famous for local spl competition....i mean sub....for amp, seldom see it...btw, the sub forgot wat model, i think double magnet model need a very huge power to make it loud.....abd i dun think it give good sq....

it's a 12" inches, will upload pic in a while

here's the picture as promised

2x12" with box


after i know the spec.. umm im gonna start looking for 2ch amp?

thankiu sifus

tai kors...

forgotten that ported woofer box is more power hungry o sealed is? i can't remember..

CaLz: maybe u can take out the woofer and let us c it's backside..

hmm.. 2 channel o monoblock will help u whack these 2 woofers.. try find those wif good power so that the bass will bcome more powerful.. to play safe, get a monoblock cz it might b a 2 ohm setting.. only a few 2 channel amps r stable at 2 ohm.

backside view


so how ah?

sealed require more power
ported require less power... but u have to built the enclosure more than 1.5cu ft each to feed them nicely... if not the sub can throw also

single voice coil.. but dono wat is the impedance..

get a monoblock and u r saved.. try checking @ the garage sales if there is any.. don simply get 2 channel amp cz if u on ur woofer too loud.. the amp sure die 1..

thanks driftmeister
and like driftmeister said.. is ur box more than 1.5cu ft?

i dun think this sub need 1.5 ported enclosure...the biggest is 1.2/1.3 i think....the sub are mean for hard and punchy...not for soft sub bass....

This post has been edited by howiechoo: Sep 7 2006, 07:49 PM

u probably haven seen ppl using 3.0 cu ft ported enclosure

it depend on sub, do u think htis sub need so big enclosure?

the bigger the better.. it doesn't mean that wat sub use wat size..

what is ported and what is sealed? how to define it?

please refer to the post #19. got pictire with woofer there.

is that ported or sealed?
thanks

This post has been edited by CaLz: Sep 8 2006, 01:28 AM

i was surprised to hear u say tat...:>

hmm.. u will c a huge difference between a bigger box and a smaller box.. 2 some ppl smaller box may bcome handy but as the matter when u put it into bigger box, u'll hear the difference.. i dono can i put it like this o not.. the bass will b deeper and my feelings(personal) the bass will go further/longer.. (dono how 2 discribe)

modified ur pic aledi...

as expert said, ported is more towards SPL (boom boom boom) while sealed is towards SQ (sound quality)

there are many studies about woofer box.. many installer don really know about the important about the box as the calculations, this, that, bli, bli and bla bla.. don ever look small on the box instead look it BIG..

every sub got it's recommended enclosure size for seal and ported. the size recoommended are for the optimum performance and harmony..if u change the size a bit then it's ok, but not make a 1.5 cu'ft sub to go to 3.0cu'ft..beside the sound will be different, the freq produce and the response of the sub will also different. and there's high chance to damage the sub if heavy load the sub

This post has been edited by howiechoo: Sep 8 2006, 02:57 AM

I though every woofer have to get the spec then messurement on the box. Diff messurement for box come out diff frequency range. Am I right?

I have RDS sub, is same like yours, CaLz. But I only using 1 12". This speaker is good for low and tight budget. And I using a 300watt rms amp to power it. I prefer the box on ported, less headache. I was thinking of getting a sealed type, but sealed type box it must be really tight sealed on the edges, if not it is no use.

i didn't say like 1.5cu ft then bcome 3.0cu ft larh.. the bigger the box the bigger the power u need 2 withdraw from the amp.. i am like saying recomended size if 1.5 cuft then u make a box like 1.8-2.0cu'ft.. the bass would b more pleasant rather than 1.5cu ft itself o even smaller..

huh.. those budget woofer i always c them in ported.. anybody know wat's the reason?

Ported / vented box more "high bass" on hearing compare to sealed box.

so i suppose 300 watt rms amp can power this sub? how about the ohm thingy?

can check one ah?

there is an equipment to check the impedance.. bigger accessories shop should haf..

a multimeter will do...but this sub is svc so it's 4ohm..as i know rds no 2 ohm sub..

if this is so.. then the woofer would be either 2 ohm or 8ohm.. find an amp which is 2ohm stabble.. if not u will kill ur amp very fast like wat i haf done b4

looking for and that suits 12" RDS pro subwoofer x2!!!!
pm pm! cheap cheap!

if u wanna do sales post it @ garage sales larhh... later kena warn onli u know..

okok sorry

just want to give some comment on the subwoofer enclosure that was discuss... i would saz that each subwoofer have their spec on the cubic feet, as there is min, average and max size... exceed the max size will still work, but the it doesnt sound so "right" as the subwoffer is not up to the standard...

the budget subwoofer are more towards to SPL and its best used on vented enclosure, as partially a waste to used on sealed enclosure as will not able to get SQ from it...

as for the amps that suite the subwoofer of 2 x 12", we need to know the specs of the subwoofer (max watt for ? ohms) and the enclosure box size to give you the best punch on the amps...

im also new on ICE, do correct me if im wrong...

This post has been edited by KidsCode: Sep 12 2006, 10:24 AM

im still headache loh... not sure about the specs but im sure it's 4ohm

juz buy an amp and make it run..

the RDS sub is 4 ohm and i think it's 300w rms

is this amp powerful enough to drive my 2 x 12" RDS sub?

please refer to the link below to see the amp specs
http://www.agako.com/sub_agako3_2002.htm

comments needed!!! ty!

This post has been edited by CaLz: Sep 13 2006, 11:10 AM

I refer to the link the amp spec is below,

Frequency Response 10Hz~40KHz
RMS power at 4 OHM Stereo 80W x 2CH
RMS power at 4 OHM Stereo 250W x 1CH
RMS power at 2 OHM Stereo 130W x 2CH
Max Power 400W
T.H.D 0.05%
Input Sensitivity 200mV~4V
Input Impedance 10K ohms
Damping Factor >200
S/N Ratio 100dB
Channel Separation 60dB

With base on the spec u given on speaker is RMS 300W, I would say not enough power to drive. The amp only give RMS power at 4 OHM Stereo 80W x 2CH.

Please do correct me if I'm wrong.

u haf 2 4ohm woofer.. after bridging it, it will b either 2 ohm or 8ohm..

then u go find a 2ohm stable amp.. if it is not written 2 ohm stable, better don get it cz u will kill the amp like wat happened 2 mine..

i dont get this part...



RMS power at 4 OHM Stereo 80W x 2CH (a)
RMS power at 4 OHM Stereo 250W x 1CH (b)
RMS power at 2 OHM Stereo 130W x 2CH ©


it's a 2 channel amp. so to drive my sub i need to bridge it to 1CH.
does it mean that if i bridge to 1 CH, (a) and © is not applicable anymore?
does it mean that the amplifier will give (b) power?

if yes,
each sub is 300w, 4OHM
got 2 sub

does that mean amp will produce 250w @ 4OHM for each sub?

please correct me!

y must bridge the sub at the first place? get a proper 2ch with 150rms will solve the problem...this sub is not really got such high power rating...y? i tested b4 with this brand......

btw, if u wan to make it running 2ohm, then i got a amp tat are able to perform 2ohm bridge to recommend u...confirm can handle ur toys....

the amp spec:
120rms x 2 @4ohm
200rms x 2 @ 2ohm
380rms x1 @ 4ohm
450rmsx1 @ 2ohm

it;s like this if i remember correctly...quite weird..but stable 2ohm bridge..who care?

er, did any1 recommend CaLz@ to get a monoblock ??? as running subs, especially 2 better use monoblock... if the budget is right...

think the 300W is the max, norminal should be 150W... dont drive the subwoofer from 2 ohm, to low to drive the subwoofer... as what howiechoo@ saz its the best and cheapest setup, get a above average 2 channel amps, will be no problem to drive the 2 subs...

This post has been edited by KidsCode: Sep 14 2006, 08:17 AM

2ch amp bridge become 1ch = only driving 1 sub-woofer.
Yes the amp will produce (b), but only for 1 sub-woofer.
I conclude that the amp not suitable for your requirement.

CaLz, get comfirm the sub-woofer spec, then will be easier to match. 300w is RMS or peak?

if the amp is powerful.. it won't kill the woofer unless u on it so so so loud until the glass breaks like my fren's.. (an accident actually )

if the woofer is power hungry then u will kill the amp (especially when u on it loud).. those chapalang shops won't warranty it for u..

juz get the monoblock amp and u could never go wrong wif it.. btw.. can u run 2 units of 12" @ 4ohm and getting it 2 run @ 4ohm?

btw.. inside the garage sales under automotive bla bla bla.. the forummer selling the monobloack @ a quite cheap price.. (2 me )..

no doubt that the accuracy for a 2 channel (class ab amp) is higher than a monoblock (class D) but in terms of power.. monoblock is delivering it 2 u..

This post has been edited by mattchin: Sep 14 2006, 07:18 PM

no matter powerful or not, ur sub will be killed if the signal clipped...

a power hungry sub will not kill the amp...only cant perform well...or the sub kill himself when the owner turn the amp gain too high...

yup, there is a unit Magnat Bull Power One selling quite a good price at automotive garage...

im using the same monoblock amp too...

so is the Magnat Bullpower one suitable to run this 2 woofer?

im still looking for monoblock amp to drive them.
Im also looking @ pyle monoblock. it's definitely cheaper than magnat. still havent got the specification

anyone has a feedback on both of the item?

This post has been edited by CaLz: Nov 30 2006, 10:06 AM

y not try looking into agako or prokick monoblocks to push the RDS woofers?

since all 3 brands are from the same company

expensive i guess?

depends on which model u want.... i find their pricing to be alright.

u can check out zth forums for the pricing. theres one feller there that actually sells it quite cheap