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 PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V64, Buy Hiriz better.

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wankel
post Sep 24 2014, 08:00 AM

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QUOTE(IvanWong1989 @ Sep 24 2014, 02:49 AM)
Guys. Anyone here got the Saga SV Cvt? Aside from the ABS and EBD tarak. Other stuff still have?
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I'm a new Proton owner and new here so please be gentle, I just had to make a first post sometime.
I don't have a SV but mine's a FLX CVT but I'm curious about the EBD? I think it's the traction control thing that has many names around the world, my FLX has a button on the console and lights on the instruments but I've yet to have any success getting the button to light a lamp, I can't help but feel it doesn't actually exist on mine, but it's not something that's important to me.

What I have noticed about the car already is it sits very nicely on the road, I love the way it steers, probably the Lotus influence, I hope others like it too. Also I can't help but think the CVT *is* the transmission of the future and offers naturally the smooth gear changes other transmissions are constantly trying to improve. The SAT button on mine was used once then retired as what's the point of using a retro setting that I wanted to get away from?

wankel
post Sep 24 2014, 09:26 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Sep 24 2014, 10:53 AM)
EBD got no access externally. It's originally equipped together with the ABS system. Safe to said, if you don't have an ABS, you don't have an EBD. That vinkas helps to distribute the brake force equally by assessing the driving environment. For example if the driver side of the road is lower than the passenger side, the brake distribution will automatically put more force on the passenger side to prevent during braking the car skid to the driver side.

All Plotong GaGas FLX Exec/SE came with ABS/EBD.


Hope this help nod.gif And yes, the steering, the entire dashboard design, the suspensions are mostly injected with LOTUS DNA, not to mentioned the engine block was 1 of the LOTUS race car's power plant. Ayam glad you enjoy the car as much as most of us do. May I have 1 question? nod.gif
Huai jiu no bai VIOS vmad.gif
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After much puzzlement I think your question is about a Toyota Vios, which has the Yaris variant available here in Australia, sorry I didn't mention that but Proton is not an enormous seller here. Anyway I bought the FLX because of features and price but the kicker was opening the bonnet and seeing a lovely open engine bay, since I always do my own servicing that was nice.

Mine has ABS, or at least has the plumbing unit for it, hopefully I'll never need to trigger it. It also has leather interior, CVT and the 1.6 engine. For $2000 more I could buy a base model Yaris with a manual transmission.
wankel
post Sep 24 2014, 10:14 AM

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No worries David, I think brand snobbery or whatever you want to call it is quite universal.

I'm finding a few things irksome already, I'm a geek who loves to replace steam age incandescent lamps with LED but sense Proton are placing hurdles in my path, as to why is a mystery but today my LED 3rd brake light lamp arrived and I'm saddened that Proton wired the centre pin of the 1156 socket as negative, they must have known what I wanted to do. Also the flasher can has the earth and battery terminals transposed to the common variant, another quirk to overcome, later when I get the new lamps (which naturally it seems use the scarcer BAU15S socket) I'll probably find the wiring is again reversed to normal.

I love going around corners in my new plaything. Previous car was a Hyundai Matrix (naturally to be different known as a Lavita here) it was a lovely car which with the 1.8 engine was actually quite frugal, at least on the highway, but handled like a barge in comparison. I haven't used "Daisy" enough for fuel economy testing yet but thus far it's fairly bad, however it's early and much change can and I expect to happen.
wankel
post Sep 24 2014, 10:56 AM

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QUOTE(Motamaji @ Sep 24 2014, 12:47 PM)
I have a saga blm for 5 yrs, but recently this few month the alarm of the car gone crazy, every time it set on and sound by itself automatically. At first it sound not so frequently, but after one month whenever I lock my car with alarm it will frequently set on by itself. (it set on by itself many many time in a day). Anyone know what happen or any solution to solve it?    rclxub.gif
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Within five minutes of getting my FLX home I'd had the displeasure of discovering it had an alarm, quickly followed by unplugging the noise box under the bonnet. Since then it still decides to quietly lock up and flash lights at whatever whim takes its fancy, I even find that hard to endure but at least happily the car salesman explained one thing to me, how to turn it off. I'm tempted to pull fuses marked alarm but sense that will be a fail.
I too would welcome tales of how to manage the alarm.

wankel
post Sep 25 2014, 10:04 AM

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QUOTE(Motamaji @ Sep 24 2014, 01:43 PM)
high five man.....but mine only happen after 5yrs.... dry.gif  dry.gif
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I don't think I have a fault, it's just me finding the alarm to be a real nuisance. I don't like locking the car at home, we don't have any crime here, and if we did then a window may be broken, but doing something to the car usually annoys it enough flash lights and clam up, bugger.

Anyway I did notice last night that a rear door switch was intermittent.
user posted image
Simply straightening the metal that holds the spring seems to have cured it, but really that has no connection with my issue, mine is just learning what I can do without triggering the alarm.

wankel
post Sep 25 2014, 10:12 AM

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QUOTE(dares @ Sep 24 2014, 03:28 PM)
You mean Stability Control/Traction Control (ESC). Unfortunately our Saga here does not come with stability control so I can't advise you how to trigger it or turn it on/off. I'm pretty sure the ones sold in OZ have the full ABS/EBD/ESC/TC braking suite.

If you will be hanging around, I apologize in advance for our "flowery" language  laugh.gif
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Supposedly my model has the lot, I even went to the trouble of pulling the switch cluster just to check if the switch was faulty but that checked OK. It could be an issue with how the manual is written, it isn't important but I may just ask the dealership about it if I see them again.

Don't worry about language, I don't understand much of it, sadly I'm unilingual, but I'm old enough to have heard plenty of it (my nickname relates to the day I was born and a certain engine) I love tinkering and hope I can give as much help back as I can hopefully gain.

wankel
post Sep 25 2014, 10:26 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Sep 24 2014, 04:34 PM)
Hi there,

1) The 3rd brake lamp indeed 1156 socket was reversed across all GaGa every since 2008, from your local S16 until now FLX+. You can simply unfold the LED module and reverse the input, and or rewire the socket. HOWEVER! Here comes the problem, 1 of the function in the engine management is to detect voltage abnormal on light bulb's output doh.gif Once you change the socket layout, plot the LED module, it works like a charm and you praise that yourself as a genius, then the CHECK ENGINE indicator(CEL) lite up on your dash because the ECU sense voltage utilization on the 3rd brake light utilize much less current doh.gif doh.gif doh.gif In order to counter this, our friend lhwj & coolkwc had wired up a resistor to the 3rd brake lamp module and managed to cheat the ECU on a regular voltage usage on the 3rd brake lamp.

2) Yes the turn signal lamps are wired reversed. Simply change it back and you'll be able to use LED. The signal blink relay can be exchanged to a common LED use. But the blinking speed will be slower.

Fuel consumption wise, the Campro S4PH is a known fuel monster. However, the CVT is there to help up. Know the wet clutch engagement timing is important as the clutch engagement trigger is the brake pedal. Usually from a standstill, after release your foot from the brake pedal, it take some 1/2 ~ 1seconds until the clutch fully engaged on the flywheel. During/before the engagement time, stepping on the gas pedal is what a Chinese old saying goes "waste gas". If unfamiliar, after release brake pedal, wait for the car to start creeping forward, then gradually increase gas pedal.

By nature, the tall Campro engine is made for high PRM torque. Hence, within 1000~4000rpm is the weakest point of the torque output. Plotong utilize an Air Fuel Module(multiple intake runner) to lengthen the intake runner on lower rpm. Keeping your RPM within 2500rpm range will reduced a lot of unwanted fuel wastage(naturally the IAFM will try to pickup more air/fuel to the engine to counter the low torque within 1000~4000rpm).

Log your fuel ups in http://www.fuelly.com/ to track your petrol consumption. You'll be able to compare your fuel consumption against others, to see whether is there any problem with the car or your right foot laugh.gif
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Thanks for the info, I ended up swapping the wires in the plug, it rained yesterday so any job was too hard but I found my long spiky thing and eased out the terminals and swapped them over. The 3rd brake light now works fine and thus far hasn't thrown a CEL, but bear in mind the flx already has LED brake/tail lights so that issue might already be addressed. I'm not a fan of using load resistors, it sort of defeats the purpose of using LED.
Interesting about the clutch operation on the CVT, I'll do more driving to become familiar but I'm usually a sedate driver which seemingly is well suited to a CVT, I certainly don't expect to break a crankshaft near the rear main bearing.

edit: Predictably when I took Daisy for a drive the warning lamp came on, bugger. What was fancy programming a decade ago has now become a nuisance for those of us who wish to use lights made in this century.

This post has been edited by wankel: Sep 25 2014, 01:45 PM
wankel
post Sep 25 2014, 05:04 PM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Sep 25 2014, 06:16 PM)
I'm gonna change back to ori bulb as pointed out by my colleague today as they barely see my brake light when they follow me behind. Feel quite dangerous as i fetch my pregnant wife in my car everyday. Damn it, becos my LED is white colour, that's the culprit (All colour filter out by red glass cover and left minimal red colour brightness). Will source for red LED afterwards. Last tips, always compare brightness of LED side by side with ori bulb, if not you can't really notice the difference.

lhwjHow is your red LED brightness compare to ur ori bulb? As i can see ur bulb actually has fewer LED tahn mine (Mine 27psc 5050SMD).
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I used a red one and it was quite bright enough.
user posted image
But back to the antique bulb for now while I ponder a solution.
A workshop manual with a wiring diagram would be a lovely thing to have.
wankel
post Sep 26 2014, 06:35 AM

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My take on the brake circuit (right or wrong) is it's sending a small voltage (2.2V) on the line when not braking, this is not enough to flow current through a LED as most need 3.2V or so and although red needs less they're wired in series to raised the required voltage. Of course 2.2V won't even raise a glow on an incandescent.
Anyway what I've tried is placing a resistor in parallel to provide a ground path, so far in a quick test it appears to work. I chose a 1.5k resistor because it's high enough not to get hot but mainly due to it being the 2nd one I found in my jumbled resistor box.
user posted image

OOPS, posted in wrong group, meant for the Saga FLX group, help! I'm lost here.

This post has been edited by wankel: Sep 26 2014, 06:52 AM
wankel
post Sep 26 2014, 03:32 PM

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Sorry for the stuff up before, still working out the forum.
Anyway I think I've found a simple solution to the warning light when changing the 3rd brake light to LED.
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The 1k5 resistor because it's high enough not to heat up, plus it came quickly to hand in my jumble box of resistors.

wankel
post Sep 27 2014, 08:45 AM

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QUOTE(coolkwc @ Sep 27 2014, 12:33 AM)
Well, ur is 6W LED, so you just need to dissipate small amount of power to cheat the CEL, hence 1.5k ohm for you.

Mine LED only 2W, i add in 51ohm, which by calculation power dissipation by resistor, P=V^2/R = 3.8W, so total power dissipation = 5.8W which is roughly same as your 6W LED.

In simple words, if you put higher power LED, the parallel resistor will be higher in value (Draw less current).

I think around 6W is the lowest threshold to cheat CEL.
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I'm afraid we're thinking down different paths, my approach was as the warning lamp was on when driving but not when braking it was seeking a path through the filament of an old style bulb, on checking I measured a Voltage of 2.2 across the 3rd brake connector, this isn't enough for a LED lamp to conduct so I simply provided a path to ground for the circuit. 1.5 k would only flow 1.5 mA or so but it seems to be enough. Just to test again I took the lamp out altogether and still no warning lamp, so I'd say the tiny current flow through the resistor is enough to disable the circuit.
wankel
post Sep 27 2014, 12:01 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Sep 27 2014, 12:49 PM)
Mind if I PM you for some information?
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OK.
wankel
post Sep 27 2014, 04:20 PM

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QUOTE(ericmaxman @ Sep 27 2014, 04:42 PM)
I see Homer! biggrin.gif
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My twin brother, we were in the same year at school and have the same blood type. wink.gif
wankel
post Sep 27 2014, 04:32 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Sep 27 2014, 05:10 PM)
Similar to this 1 lor. I think s@ni kes oso seim blink.gif
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I can't help but think Freddies issue that you quoted may have been from incorrect wheel offset.
Tyre wise I'm at the stage of life that all that matters is distance and lack of noise, but it'll be a little while before I need buy any. My new steed is shod with Goodyears, possibly made expressly for export Proton's to Australia as they have a measly UTQG rating of 240, in recent years my tyre of choice has been the Chinese Goodride which cost me a fortune in freight but still work out as cheap as the grey porridge rubbish local fitters will foist upon wood ducks like me, plus I get the satisfaction of doing the job myself.
wankel
post Oct 3 2014, 02:15 PM

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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Oct 3 2014, 04:04 PM)
Okay then. I just happen to be free tonight. Haha..

Want to ask, anyone tried LED bulbs for headlamp? Some says it doesn't go far at all, but how about Preve with projector lights, can LED be suitable?
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I played with a few on my last car usually with dismal results, however the cree ones that increase the voltage to them as well as having a fancy heatsink on the rear are brilliant. Sadly they were H4 and thus useless to my FLX, silly me assumed it would have H4 rather than H7 headlights so now I have to save for two sets to fit into it.
wankel
post Oct 3 2014, 05:16 PM

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QUOTE(mengsuan @ Oct 3 2014, 05:08 PM)
Lol, you all going tauge is it? I'm slow driver. laugh.gif
I'm seeing either those Cree with heatsink at the back, they don't come cheap, but I guess those without a proper LED driver (looks like corn with a lot of LED around it) just can't be suitable for headlamp.

Thanks for the feedback, now I will only consider those Cree LED bulb.
How much is the W rating? Some are just 20W, seems that it wouldn't be hotter than Halogen 55W.
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Yes the multi LED types are generally useless, it'd be due to the reflector focusing to a small point, best in my view to just have a very bright LED at the focus point, ones further forward and backward don't do much to help.

Heatwise the cooling would be to save the LED from expiring, there'd still be a whole lot less heat than from a halogen.
wankel
post Oct 5 2014, 10:05 AM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Oct 5 2014, 09:05 AM)


RIP FLX. Belakang mali, what ABS, EBD, how many abeg also useless sad.gif Piktar courtesy of Oriental Daily
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Being hit from behind negates most safety measures. I'd say the truck driver was smoking since it appears to have a burn mark on the door, also not wearing a seatbelt as the windscreen was broken.
Love the colour of the FLX, sadly nearly every car on our Aussie roads are only available in the blandest shades possible, usually merely varieties of grey.
wankel
post Oct 14 2014, 02:27 PM

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QUOTE(mnibar @ Oct 14 2014, 11:58 AM)
When to replace timing belt for FLX? i'm confused between 80k-120k?
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My Aussie handbook states 120k/ 96 months for CFE and IAFM+, or 96k/ 72 months for all other variants.
wankel
post Nov 4 2014, 05:27 PM

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Tinkering today.
I had a muck around with the gear indicator illumination on my CVT FLX today, it's far from a great job but perhaps it might give somebody else an idea?
user posted image
more info here
wankel
post Nov 4 2014, 08:22 PM

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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Nov 4 2014, 09:55 PM)
From now on, let's



Race until TS come and open kolos tered. Let's see whether can break last time record laugh.gif
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With something like this?
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