Hi guys , need your expertise , how can I remove this stain on my solid white paint ? urghh ... any products recommend to remove this ? Is this called watermark ?

Thanks

Nope not into coating yet. So far my LSP just Meg Ulti Liq Wax, plus ulti quik wax sometimes after wash.

biotin Looks like watermarks with tons of dirt around it . Give it a good wash + clay should do the job. Or u could wash + use compound to buff it off ( Meg's ultimate compound works wonders). However, if its clear-coat etching from acid water .. u got to do paint correction

Saw this video, and I will never achieve such a clean car by myself ( not enough energy )

120 hours.. 4 hours and i'm already dying from hand-compounding + window cleaning



This post has been edited by jedi_dc: Aug 31 2014, 10:09 PM

20% memang ada. But no more combo lur. Dunno whattttt to buy so I got the meg ultimate quik detailer and a bottle of PG neutral car wash. Enuf ar for the time being?

@jedi_dc

Gulp.. Should i just clay myself , if its taking a lot of time, i guess no choice nees to send to detailing shoo to fix it.. Huhu

biotin couldnt see clearly from your image to know what type of stains u had on your paint..

First we need to know your paint condition.. Then we need to know type of water spots (if that was water spots) that u had..

Type 1 water spots - u can use those water spot remover from the shelf (aeon/ace hardware/etc)

Type 2 water spots - u can use ultimate compound whether by hand or machine.. Use it wisely

Type 3 water spots - etching into clear coat and I'm not sure can be remove. I have one on my car paint..

Honestly for me claying wont remove water spots.. I have so many type 2 and claying wont remove them..

Remember. Using ultimate compound will cut your clear coat.. So if I were u, i will use something less abrasive first to remove the stain (since I dont know which type u had)

Previously I use UC to remove my type 2 ws and after doing some research, how I wish i use Duragloss Water Spots remover first before UC.. More effective and more safer to clear coat..

Choice is yours.. Patient.. Learn and decide.. Im still learning so hope if Im wrong, sifu please correct me ya..

Yes master zerosp your old faithful friend had served me well.. Pair with his best friend opt double sided red foam = mama mia !!

Or try CarPro Spotless Remover (or equivalent)

Good... The OHP still good to go?

Still good.. Eventhough water splashes (just like the foam pad is in wet mode) but still contains oil.. So i just buff it (the water splash) and its good to go.. Wipe with mf and done.. Gloss and slickness appear.. Booyahh..!!

Hi guys

Just wanna share what i did

1. Loosen all the dirt on my new car (ald use 1 week without wash)

2. Start with 2 bucket system with some PG PH neutral car shampoo

3. After washing, dried the car with a waffle MF

4. Mist wit Meg's Ult Quik Detailer

(Didn't clay cos the surface very smooth still - but got some paint defects but no polish)

End effect that I got was this:







So now I'm happy with the results of my morning, I want to find out what should i proceed to next?

my current considerations are:

1. Meg's wash & wax
2. Meg's Ult liquid wax
3. 3M or PG clay bar
4. Meg's PlastX - for tinted window
5. Meg's Ult Polish

Still do not know what to go for to clean dashboard and lelather seats.

Did also look at Osren and Duragloss products. Became too @.@


Any comments are welcomed. TQ guys


This post has been edited by d_scientist: Sep 1 2014, 04:27 PM

Nice

Haven't try Osren before. But I can recommend Duragloss.. Try before and amaze with it..

Currently using DG501. For me I'm satisfied with the beading and water repellent effect on my car.. But once applied it's hard to wash the foam pad..

not bad. not bad. and your consideration 1-5
1. Meg UWW for me is quite good. I used PG's concentrated shampoo before, and also PG's Wash & Wax Polymer before. i can tell you the PG Wash & Wax will give you nice gloss/shine right after you wash your car compared to just the PG shampoo. the Meg UWW shine even better! so for me, i would go with Meg UWW. or you can try other brand's wash & wax.

2. Meg ULW for me is quite superb. the price is not superb though. i never use other waxes before so i can't really compare. the only one i used before is the KIT Metallic wax and it is just mehhh. but then, i think very very very important is you MUST clay your car before waxing it (even your new ride)

3. 3M bar where you find it? i last time when searching online, read that lots of china fake 3M clay bar (very cheap) on market, not sure if its true. i would rather stick with PG claybar rather than risk buying fake clay bar (and rub the fake thing on your beloved car!). and as for clay lube, i just use shampoo water mix (before). you can use your PG Shampoo, fill some into a generic spray bottle, and spray away. OR, just use clean MF cloth/wash mitt as 'lube dispenser' lols. Sifu here thought me before the UQD that you have now is not really suitable as clay lube.

4. never used this before. but what do you mean PlasticX for tinted window? window is glass no?

5. UP. i have this as well. hmmm so far used once, by hand. not really sure if it is effective to use by hand though. if apply by machine the effect should be great. but since your car is new, i think its okay. the cutting power is really minimum so i think its safe for your new ride

dashboard & leather seats i would use APC (any brand), spray wipe (or brush) and clean. i just bought Osren's for this. then apply those dashboard dressing product for the shine. i'm using meg ulti protectant.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 1 2014, 11:25 PM

Guys for cleaning my wheel wells i am thinking of spraying in APC+ Megs and let it sit for few seconds then hose it down with pressure jet. And dress with meguairs all season shine. what do you think? my car on the rear has felt like wheel wells (like fabric/velcro)

One step at a time. Clay bar you can do fine with PG.

Duragloss Aquawax is good.

Meg's wise I cannot recommend as I don't use them. But shampoo why not you try out our Optimum one?



And by the way, 2 years of Opti Glass Pro holding.



This post has been edited by ZeroSP: Sep 2 2014, 06:36 AM

Thats alot of product shooping.....


Im from Penang but i just move to KL not long for work, u can get Meguair's from all the Parkson Outlet & Ace Hardware at Queensbay. Previously I also bought my Meguair's from SPICE Arena which is PISA, there is a car wash that uses Meguair's and they are selling products as well, but Im not sure after the renovation are they still going on their business or not. Other then that there some quiet supplier that supply some factory products for paint shop and I used some of the gallon wax previously.


Thats a nice tuch!!

Its dangerous to shoot video while driving regardless what speed.

Also need to reach 90km/h above only see the water beading ? If 60-80kmh can or not ?

Just want to share my experience and from this detailing session I've learned a lot..

My friend wanted me to help restore his paint on Chevy Aveo..

Upon Arrival







Left right and rear panel still okay. But need to do paint correction to enhance glossiness. Then I was so shocked to see this..

This is where things started to get interesting. Look at the front bonnet. Can you see anything?



Didn't know the color on front bonnet mati already (oxidation)

More



No gloss at all



Masking to see the severity of the paint and for testing



(Forgot to take 'after' image for this test )

To be continued

Continued from above..

Session starts with washing using megs GCWW + OPC + wash mitt + 2 bucket system + GG and clay using PG no 2. To my shock again, during claying process no contamination pick up on the front bonnet. I was like

Before - Close Up but no reflection at all



After several pass with UC and makita + orange pad (50/50)



My left hand is missing..!!!

Continue to polish the front bonnet and still unable to remove the oxidation on the passenger side. I was so frustrated and finally took out OPT double sided wool pad + UC and begin to work. War started between me and the chevy. Yeahhhh

After



Driver side



Passenger side



Driver's door



Passenger's door



Rear spoiler before



After



Okay la for newbie like me lol

Saja letak logo kereta.. Later expert ady can letak logo Ferrari pulak



Lesson learned from this detailing session and I hope I will not repeat the same mistakes again !!

- Not all paint carries the same type of oxidation - I thought all oxidation is the same. Just apply UC and all done. It took me 2 days just to correct the front bonnet with 1 full bottle of UC

- Need to use correct pair for correction - I was using CCS light cutting orange pad when I should use wool pad or at least yellow pad. This wrong combination cost me time wasted and product wasted. Only started to use wool pad on 2nd day

- Less pass per section - I should work at least 6 to 8 passes instead I only do 3 to 4 passes for each section. Then I top up UC on pad and continue to polish on the same section. This created more product applied thus dryness created and hard to wipe off (left thick residue on the bonnet and pad)

- I only use speed 2 for cutting

- Did not overlap on each section - created boxes. Aiyohhh

- I have wasted so many things including my cuti day..

So in the end, I use OPT wool pad + UC (2nd bottle) and work on each section until I can see glossiness on the paint. This time I do 8 to 10 passes at least with speed 3 to 4 for cutting and finally I was able to remove the oxidation.

both door panel and rear using OHP + Opt red foam and 5'5 / 3' pad for curve and small area

*Actually to be honest, I was nervous because this is my first time detailing others car and not my own.. lol

Any comments and feedback appreciated. Thanks

This post has been edited by roxx: Sep 2 2014, 02:45 PM

wow very nice~~! the front bonnet from 'matte' till become gloss and shiny again! you used 2 days ah? wow, so much time even for rotary? i see that you mentioned you used wrong product/pad combo for the oxidized paint. 1 UC completely on the front bonnet (OUCH RM 70 ) bookmarking this page because of this lesson learnt info

the front bonnet did you finish off another pass with OHP too (like what you did on door panel and rear)? btw is OHP stands for Optimum Hyper Polish? you seal of with any LSP? The rear spoiler feels like can be improved more? i mean, seeing from the picture la and you got a rotary man. anyway, good detailing session!

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Sep 2 2014, 02:08 PM

Thats a great pcs of work!!
If could share a picture of your product like would be WOW!