One or two drops of your "blue" (I prefer meta-clean) on a moist cloth, then spot polish the stubborn stain...repeat as required. It will clear.

Waxing like normal won't work. (actually it does but needs multiple times and it's slow you won't notice the effect and it removes good clear coat)

Do not use the foam applicator...do not try to do the whole roof in one go...If etching is severe...ie clear coat or paint is gone...do not polish at all.

Water/dirt stains...spot clean and it's gone.

Etching...some clear coat and paint are gone...just leave it. Paint touch up if you want.

Hi pros. my vios c pillar paint is kinda like frosty/rough feeling. is it ok if i just stop my progress at polishing? wash>clay>polish. but i feel like the paint is not smooth yet after polishing. all done by hand. whats the next step? waxing? any recommended wax for white car?

Frosty as in frosted glass matte dirty looking? Sounds like clear coat deteriorating...needs a repaint

Post a picture lah...

Turtle wax ice premium care paste wax (applied on the driver side of the car)

Vs

Sonax xtream brilliant shine detailer spray wax. (Applied on the passenger side of the car)

After 1 month, this is the result.

Turtle wax ice premium care paste wax (applied on the driver side of the car)

Vs

Sonax xtream brilliant shine detailer spray wax. (Applied on the passenger side of the car)

After 1 month, this is the result.
Water beading on the Turtle wax side is more tighter than the Sonax side.

All the discussion about spray wax...was wondering if a weekly wash with wash and wax shampoo, regular topping up of wax/sealant still required?

My method is this:
1. Weekly wash with wash and wax shampoo
2. Last week of the month = sheer wash (optimum car wash) and top up with carpro reload
3. 2-3 months (depending on schedule) will perform claying and jewel polish (ultimate polish), IPA wipedown + carpro reload application.

Any comments on this?

This post has been edited by douglas_tong: Feb 24 2016, 12:06 AM

Nice. Thanks.

I would skip the ipa wipe...the polish hides swirls which is what you want...so just top with reload...

Wash n wax shampoo doesn't add much wax...I would use normal shampoo, detailer and/or reload weekly or alternate weeks.

Presume you have a tar removal step somewhere as required.

If it's not a white car...you could try to extend polishing to 6 months...the detailer helps keep it clean enough and your reload helps...

This post has been edited by dwRK: Feb 24 2016, 08:52 AM

the reason of ipa wipe is because in my experiment, reload doesn't bond well with meguairs ultimate polish. too much oil i think? If i perform ipa wipe, it does seem to produce more shine.

It's been a while since I last use tar removal, usually when I'm doing a full car correction, else i just perform a clay cleaning. Not sure if clay would actually remove tars or not.

Yes, it's black car. Though reload claims that it helps removing water spots, based on my experience, it doesn't. And the protection against it is less than what a wax can do. Reason for not topping it up with a wax is because it beads any wax like mad no matter how thin i apply. applying wax on top of it would seem redundant. But in terms of gloss, reload is something to be impressed about.

2-3 months polishing is to remove above surface contaminants, ultimate polish imo doesn't correct much with a finishing pad. Reload doesn't actually have any cleaning abilities like QD and serves as a pure sealant.

I also did an experiment with onr diluted in QD ratio to use as a drying aid. Does bring shine and provide some cleaning abilities. Its cleaning ability is really impressive even as QD. My current QD is perma glass brand and I find it to underperform compared to onr, so I use it to pick up bird's poo since it is very lubricious and use onr to clean it after. Have not experiment PG QD as a top up, i would expect it to leave streaks though.

not sure why but everytime i apply carpro reload the oil stain is very hard to buff away eventhough it is just 1 spray for whole bonnet, any advice?

i had to use carpro eraser to lighten it everytime.

Before application make sure to shake the bottle, give a good 5 sec shake.

Apply with damp mf tower, this will help instead of applying it dry.

Use a second dry mf to buff.

moving to different panel, make sure to shake it again.

I might drop in a tip for spray on waxes is to spray a little on the MFB Towel to have a more even application.
That would prevent you from over spray on the panel and have an easier wipe on (damp side) - wipe off (dry side) later on.

Shake well before applying of course

pardon my ignorance as I've not used carpro products...yes these nano stuffs usually don't work well with traditional polishes and waxes...so IPA is required.

yes I know...what I meant is QD after every wash to keep it cleaner and you might extend the need to polish beyond 2-3 months...however you know best...

ya QD is a cleaner and has not to my knowledge been associated as a "top up" to ADD gloss n protection...

where do you guys get your carpro/reload stuff from?

This post has been edited by dwRK: Feb 24 2016, 02:59 PM

Back then someone here sold it for a very competitive price, no longer carry it as exchange rate was difficult to bring in more stocks.

Currently I am getting it from waregem, some are on pre-order basis. Just made my order on carpro essence during cny and can't wait to try it. reviews have been extremely good and recommended by many detailers.

You can also get it from waxson, the sole distributor of carpro products in Malaysia. They sell all ranges except for cquartz. Unless you are a detailer with shop, else they don't sell it to end users. I find waregem price to be cheaper than theirs.

In terms of QD as for cleaning ability, onr is seriously good as drying aid, and way cheaper. Must have product! But doesn't go well with weekly wash and wax shampoo.
I notice that wash and wax shampoo is less effective in cleaning, or at least the brand that i'm using. (Mothers) But produce best shine. Whereas onr cleans effectively and gives fair shine (but not as shiny as wash and wax shampoo)

Those 'oil stain' (or we call it streaking/clouding) are signs of product drying too fast or not being applied evenly. Need a bit getting used to when applying spray waxes in our climate/weather conditions. Some times leftover products on the mf cloth that could also cause them, and you'd need to chage cloth often. I normally dilute mine with distilled water (by 25% or 1 part water + 3 parts product) and get better results.
Good tip this...

Thanks.

You need to wet sand the oxide off. Then followed by any sealant or wax will do. No more polishing as it might damage the paint more.

With sanding You risk removing paint, especially problematic with metallic flakes...

This post has been edited by dwRK: Feb 26 2016, 08:18 AM

Some obsolete products....80% water block & 95% rain hop remaining...promise myself to finish them before buying new stuff...sitting in my box for the last 10-15 years...but the nano coating poison is too strong...

Hate using the water block but like the beading and sheeting...love using the rain hop but hate the water spots...

What obsolete stuff you guys still have?

Even with real coating water mark and dirt film will still build up and for liquid product there is always a life span for the chemical.