but but but, hard to get

until now i also didn't got the rim coating

eh ya ke? im outdated on detailing news already lol

quite sure even the cheapo turtle wax hardshell paste wax can achieve.
how long it can last is a different matter though.

megs ULW have even more uniform beading compared to the turtle wax.

only can comment on those 2 as i've only tried these 2

oh you a?

still got my contact? lol

got keep then got % chance to buy lo.
no keep ma zero chance lo

if i stack it with glaze and spray wax topper count or not?
to be fair i very long time don't wash car

however in between i do use UQD a LOT to remove any stains (tar/bug/droppings/obvious watermarks etc)

follow proper steps, wash car properly, claying is recommended, or rather a MUST if you want your wax to last.

sure got
but i noticed that number isn't linked with whatsapp? you don't use whatsapp or something?

lol i remember having my rupes sitting in the box never open for many months until i start my first major detailing project on the new car XD

so atas buy autoglym?

http://www.kaitospeed.com/store/knacc/99-5050

https://forum.lowyat.net/user/kangyoon20

https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=Sear...ult_type=topics

no issue with rainx for me. cheap and cheerful, easily last more than half a year.
videos feel free to find my youtube.

lol i OCD a bit, if i'm REALLY into it, leave overnight, re apply, and slightly wipe with dry paper towel on the slight haze.

it will still be hazy, i just drive a little slower and my vision isn't that impaired to be able to see properly

i do almost all my applications at night too... personally i'd leave it

however for safety purposes, obviously wipe off hazing until you can see the road properly.
i prefer to wipe dry, however this will be harder to wipe off/deal with the hazing compared to wet as sifu krismas suggested earlier.

wouldn't plastx meant for plastics?
i don't think it's meant for CDs?
and have you cleaned your car properly prior to application and were instructions followed carefully?

megs consumer series among the most noob friendly products provided if you follow proper instructions.

google/search this thread/previous version for more information on coating, as well as basic steps on car maintenance.
coating won't be destroyed by wax, however with polishing, you would most likely shave off layers of the coating (or clear coat if there's not coating) and eventually the coating will be too thin to matter at all, or without coating, very thin/gone clear coat that you may need to perform a respray.
This is however very unlikely if you're using mild polishes and most importantly follow proper steps/instructions.

i drive a black car too and i can tell you that stone chips/flying rocks are inevitable, especially when i am a speed junkie that goes well over 200kph easily when the highways are free.
if you're that afraid, consider just trying out the paint protection film. good luck in DIY'ing the film, as i believe they need to have a proper environment for the film to be able to properly wrap to the car (as well as prior paint cleaning/correction so you don't seal in any imperfections.)
some random pictures:



as for individual products:
1) awesome stuff if it's the xtreme series with neon lime color and turns red/dark red/purple ish upon taking effect.
the latest formulation isn't as strong i'd reckon.

2) no idea.
3) no idea.
4) no idea, i used megs professional series M101

5) does as advertised, i use this after M101 (or megs ultimate compound)

6) no idea.

7) good shine, good beads, ease of application, decent pricing. a little bad on the durability, but this is great as a topper as it's a no brainer to apply. Would not recommend standalone application.
i would recommend getting another "base wax" such as the ultimate paste wax (or liquid if you're planning to have a machine), and have Sonax Brilliant shine detailer (Sonax BSD for short as it's called here) as a topper instead.

krismas Sifu,
Last time we talked about how UQD having minor solvent, i believe that's for ease of removing stains/dirt etc right? however the drawback is that it may portentially eat away existing LSP.

what other QD products would you recommend that cleans as good, if not better than UQD without the solvent? dodo juice red mist?

I'm also quite fond of the minor LSP that UQD offers, what other products would have it and still fulfill it's main objective of cleaning?

never used plastx so i couldn't comment further.

if UC/UP is ok with you, consider just sticking with those

damn really? you tried burning that thing? lol

I've heard about some difficulty on original red mist in our weather (which is why they came out the tropical version anyways) so confidence level isn't high for the DDJ RM.

but yeah, that's what i feared actually.
hence why i seek you (and others, if any more input) on good QD's, and UQD/M135 (probably will be getting a gallon of this i guess) seems like the lesser of evils because i do a LOT of cleaning considering my speed (rock/bug/bird or whatever flying thing droppings) cravings.
>200kph from Singapore to like Petronas Air Keroh RSA North bound, my entire front windscreen/bonnet/bumper are etched with f*** ton of droppings, bugs, shattered rocks, some minor tar as well... and they are etched so deep that EVEN UQD had some trouble to clean them off (i assume it's the intense speed/wind pressure pressing them contaminants further into the LSP/paint.

another idea is that, if UQD can make up for the minor loss of LSP with it's own included minor LSP (as some people also used UQD as UQW before, lol), i think it isn't so bad. It's what i've practiced for many years and just butt itchy to try out something else.
But if it is what works, i guess don't need to fix what isn't broken.

much thanks sifu for the reassurance

no exp with mother's.

but in case you're not familiar with megs UQD, it has minor LSP too in which if you can recall from previous posts/thread versions, there are people who used UQD as a WOWO after wash to speed up drying due to it's hydrophobic lsp properties (similar to UQW, except UQW is the more "proper method", and cheaper AFAIK)

it does however has a minor drawback of having solvent (which is why it cleans so f***ing good), which does eat into the LSP eventually.

to put it simply, UQD is like among the best "AIO" QD that does it's purpose of cleaning well, and then some added LSP. (to make up for it's solvent i guess)