Last year i want sell you no buy.
End up I bring to US sell 200USD.

Use Topre 55g.
Ditch the rest. Save the money for the lubes and useless stickers.

OR

If you have money to spare.
Buy some lubes and stickers. Buy more keycaps. Buy metal case keyboards. Then try to sell them at Lowyat when you get sick of it, and nobody wants to bite.

Agreed.
Cant tell the difference between original and bsp.

Do originals cost more than bsp?
I just sell them at the same price.

With the same qc, definitely
We have the fc660c feeling just the same albeit with different sound due to construction of the case. I think this would be similar.

Rm699 is not bad for topre. But most people would be like, 'you paid how much for the novatouch?!'

I wont buy now, wait it sell first. If good response, then same price. If bad response, then we buy when stock clerance time.

Dont la.

Rumour is that CM will release 55g version. 55g is the best topre i tell you.

I might buy this, then again i might not. It is hard to decide. I still have that type s on my bucket list.

Or we can do master race method.
Buy Novatouch, Buy RF55g, switch Rubber cups. Profit!!

Why do koreans like the back to be super high. Is it because they leave their palms on the table while typing?


Picture of the night

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Sep 14 2014, 01:10 AM

tried to use it all morning.
It is rather impossible to use without resting my palms on the table.

I frigging hate that.

Do you know how to turn off the stupid layer LED?
I can't read Korean

I figured out how to turn off the side LEDs but the flashing thing on the Caps Lock, IDK

Yeap
Got 45g, 55g, variable silent., HHKB

I pulled a key, and seems like a stabilizer got dislodged. Need to desolder the whole thing to see what's wrong.
Such a nice keyboard case. Sayanglah.

What's the point. The wrist is still resting on something.
I am used to not resting my wrist on anything

Desoldered the LED. Problem solved.
Bad firmware design. It has a mode to turn off all the LEDs except this one. Wtf.

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Sep 14 2014, 05:25 PM

One redeeming factor is the design of the case itself.
It dampens clacking noise signifcantly. Compared to KMAC or even DUCK POKER case, this is really silent.

This I really like. Can bring to office to use.
I wanted to bring KMAC but it was making a huge racket.

Stabilizer internals dislodged. Means somehow, the stabilizer wire dislodged from the stabilizer mount. I have a hard time thinking how this could happen. Perhaps it is due to me reusing the stabilizers from an old Cherry keyboard. Will wait for my order of stabilizers to arrive before fixing it. There is no way I can fix it without desoldering the whole thing. This is the stupid design mistake of using PCB mount stabilizers on a plate mount keyboard. Totally not practical. Putting it to storage for now.

There is also an LED mode where it blinks every time you type. Annoying as hell. I don't know why someone would design such an abomination. Imagine someone sitting next to you, using MX Blue, and his keyboard side LED blinks every time he types. That has got to be up there with those idiots whose 3rd Brake light is blinking in a traffic jam.

Lol man you gotta cut down the buying.
I can hear your wallet crying.

Not the housing.

I just desoldered the board. The wire dislodged from the housing, causing it to dislodge from the internal moving part. Need to figure out how to fix this with the plate soldered in, maklumlah i using old stabs. Need new stabs to minimize this issue.

This pcb quality is god awful. Solder first time can smell pcb burning. Desoldered the keyboard and some pads are dying, almost lifted.

Can fix with blue wiring but i really would not want that.


EDIT: nevermind. I added some toothpicks behind the stabilizer bars so that they won't be able to move too much. I think this should be what you mean by the toothpick method?

This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Sep 16 2014, 05:27 PM

Pretty stupid decision on the PCB material. This is not a mass manufactured item but a modder's PCB. That means it is meant to be soldered/desoldered multiple times over its lifetime. PCB burning the first time solder is applied is not what I would want to call, good PCB quality. I used 350'C with eutectic solder, the type with silver. The solder pad burns and some of them lifted halfway.

If someone where to desolder this keyboard with full LEDs mounted, good luck. He's gonna burn so many things.

The toothpick is doing its job just fine.

Here's a pict that I managed to take before the sun went down.
Love the case. Makes the keyboard nice and silent. Comparable to an RF silent if I would dare say so.


This post has been edited by kaiserreich: Sep 16 2014, 06:37 PM

guise, how to program Duck Viper so that the side LED don't automatically turn on every time?

I read the google translated guide but I still cannot figure it out

But the LED will turn on again after I reconnect the keyboard.
Kinda defeats the purpose. I ingat the controller can remember.

Finally figured out how to turn off the bloody side LED on the Viper.
Looks like I am the bloody idiot who keeps misunderstanding the instructions

The method is:
make sure side LED is on.
press 'R' to change the modes
press the 'LED CTRL' key. Which is most of the time, the 'TAB' key.

For future references.

It's a noppoo poo.
If you buy it nobody will buy from you here.

it is a piece of (nop)poo

Go to any pharmacy or big name store, look for polident brand name.