Hi guys. This is my first time doing a worklog. I'm still a newbie and there might be some error or misinformation in this worklog.

I'm doing a watercooling pc with all acrylic tubes. Its a bit harder than the normal tube, where you need to plan the the route and all that. But its even harder to build the loop exactly like the way we planned.

I've been planning to make this project since last year. Because of my low budget and some unavailable item in Malaysia, it took a while to complete all the items that I wanted. But still, there's a few items I have no choice to buy because the color I wanted has no stock. Such as the clear memory block and so on. Pretty sad

I will build my watercooling on Phanteks Enthoo Primo. I name this project Primo Green because my theme is green and I'm doing it on Enthoo Primo case . This case is very good for watercooling.

So here's my idea on how my loop will look like. Well, i'm not very good at picture editing or graphic design. I just copy a picture from the internet, and use paint to draw my loop



If you guys have a better idea, please do let me know.

All the items are ready... yummy





This post has been edited by hafdin: Nov 28 2014, 04:37 AM

Oh yes, I forgot to mention. There's some items that I will be using again such as the Graphics card, motherboard, etc.

I bought a used Phanteks Enthoo Primo from someone in LYN. So, need to take away all the dust and stuffs.



I'm using the Corsair SP120 quiet edition fans for all my rads. I like this fan because we can color the ring to match our color theme.



Looks like 1 bottle is not enough for all these rings. Need to buy another bottle for this color.

This post has been edited by hafdin: Aug 21 2014, 09:42 AM

Just got back from Ace.

Just incase you guys are wondering what color am I using, well here it is.



Planning to add a bit of carbon fiber sticker inside my case.





Now its time to wait the ring to dry and continue my work later.

So far.. done the motherboard..



Done the ring, here how it looks like with the monstaa radiator.



Putting it inside my case.



But then, suddenly I realize. The CPU water block is in the wrong position. Need to open it and reroute again

This post has been edited by hafdin: Jul 16 2015, 12:22 PM

Ok, now the CPU water block is in the right position.

Nice bro. Park here first

Waa nice projet ni..

Its update time!

Sleeving my both pump cable so it looks really neat. this is my first time sleeving a cable and it is actually easier than i thought.



After done sleeving the pump cable, i was planning to put the EK pump mod cover kit with the EK dual pump top. But it seems like both item couldn't fit together. I need to figure out something. Or i'll end up selling this EK pump mod cover kit.



Finally i attach the EK dual pump top first, and put the EK pump mod cover after that. It may look a bit weird, but i have no choice.



So, this is how it looks like with the res



This is how it looks with the rad



Need to open the case and everything to insert the big fat rad with the pump



Last time someone mention about having leaks with the EK dual pump top after he done all the project and need to open it back again. Well, I'm a bit worried about it and need to do some leak test for the pump top. Just a simple loop for leak test.



Will be back after the leak test is done.

This post has been edited by hafdin: Jul 16 2015, 12:23 PM

Just ordered some acrylic panels for my case

I saw infernoaswen's project with his acrylic panels look so damn cool and i'm planning to put some in my project hehe

Well, i mixed with a bit of UV green acrylics since my theme is green huhu



This post has been edited by hafdin: Sep 1 2014, 06:58 PM

In the mean time while waiting for the leak test, why not cut some acrylic tubes for the loop.

So here is the measurements i need.



Some of the tools i use on cutting it.





Acrylic tubes ready

Hi bro, you can refer to my post on how I made it: https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...&#entry58043482

5mm clear (sanded 1 surface) + 3mm white on top. Forgot to mention to you I put white manila card at the bottom of the clear acrylic panel. Then I attached the led to the side like what I mention to you just now at petrol station Actually the clear acrylic thickness doesn't really matter, I use 5mm because I wanted to keep the acrylic panel as thin as possible for the fillport. You can use 3mm + Xmm.

If you notice the led part I use black tape to cover it & also to hold the led to the acrylic panel edge. Then I use epoxy glue & glue at the acrylic edges & also the black tape part. Cant use super glue because it will leave white marks, so use this glue instead. Hope this helps



This post has been edited by infernoaswen: Sep 1 2014, 09:20 PM

Ah yes, i can see it if i look carefully.

By the way, you said about no gap between the led and the panel, so does anything happen? i mean did the panel get burn or the led died?

Yes, very helpful. This is just what i needed. Thanks bro

Yeah I was afraid of that but the led didnt die, it just got a little dimmer which is probably normal for these china leds.

Ah.... long time haven't update. Busy with my job. Ok, lets continue.

BOOM! Suddenly its done. Dang it.

Excuse my poor photographing













This post has been edited by hafdin: Nov 28 2014, 04:28 AM

Very nice

It looks damn sexy!

bro hafdin

How did u do the ROG logo and ur nick at the acrylic panel? engrave or spray? i believe there's led behind it right?

haha non of the above are correct. actually i send it to a commercial shop to laser cut it. yes, there's a LED strip involve in this process, but i didn't put it behind it, i just tape it at the side of the panel. but i use a frosty plastic sheet behind the acrylic so the lighting will be even. infernoaswen give me the idea about how to even the light.

so.. greeeen... what name Ivy2.0 ? ooo weeed

neat setup. make me want to build one for myself