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 LY.Net Honda City Enthusiast Club - V3 -

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Gouki
post Aug 31 2006, 04:06 AM

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QUOTE(bayanbaru @ Aug 27 2006, 11:46 PM)
tot no more Goodyear Eagle F1 oredi? Replacement is Ducaro
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How can a top end flagship tyre model by Goodyear being compare to the cheapest Ducaro GA? The only worth getting Goodyear tyre IMHO is Eagle F1. smile.gif
Gouki
post Sep 24 2006, 04:38 PM

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QUOTE(Jackie Leong @ Sep 24 2006, 03:49 PM)
nycs82,
i'll be going to japan this coming thursday laugh.gif tongue.gif
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Japan? blink.gif
Let me prepare my list.
Gouki
post Sep 24 2006, 06:03 PM

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QUOTE(Jackie Leong @ Sep 24 2006, 04:54 PM)
doh.gif kanasai.. going there for a tour oni la.. you think i go there bring hks, mugen, spoon engines come back meh laugh.gif tongue.gif
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Well, my list could be some other stuff that non-related to cars. rolleyes.gif
Gouki
post Sep 24 2006, 06:19 PM

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QUOTE(Jackie Leong @ Sep 24 2006, 06:09 PM)
hentai-yaro shakehead.gif laugh.gif
eh, i dun import jap av girls ah... tongue.gif
waahahaha, of coz not that lar......... laugh.gif

Gouki
post Oct 21 2006, 08:59 PM

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QUOTE(BuFung @ Oct 21 2006, 10:12 AM)
Hi City members...  would like to ask something....  my friend recently sold his city to another friend..  now the car seem to have some problem..  the car is the first batch of City..  the problem is now the CVT have gone wrong somewhere somehow..  send back to service center, guess wat..  the service center say if wanna repair that, it cost more than RM20k.....  sweat.gif sweat.gif sweat.gif

any of u guy face the CVT problems??  please jaga it baik baik..  else..  sweat.gif sweat.gif
*
A good condition used CVT gearbox from JDM Fit only cost RM2.5k.
Gouki
post Nov 2 2006, 02:45 PM

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QUOTE(Jackie Leong @ Nov 1 2006, 06:21 PM)
it happened quite a long while already.. when i brake harder than usual from high speed, the steering wheel will vibrate quite roughly.. i knew the rotors were warped, but no idea what caused them.. (and nope, i'm not dumb enuff to hose the damn brakes when it's hot, or wash my car when it's still hot!)

I paid a visit to another SC since Peringgit Auto did not want to repair my car (i made a list of things to repair, but most priority is on the brakes) on the eve of Deepavali with the reason that they just wanna service cars and get them on the road ASAP.

At the other SC, the rotors were taken out for skimming (quite a lot of skimming done).. and i was told that if it warped again, a claim has to be made.. no idea how the rotors warped unsure.gif

So the past 2-3 days, whenever i brake, the right side brakes make an audible "chet chet chet" sound at the same place at every revolution.. i wasn't sure if the brakepads were at fault, or the rotor this time around..

Maxis was shitty today (calls to SC keep getting d/c-ed after a while) so i drove to the SC to troubleshoot the matter.. they remove the brakepads to skim again.. then told me that my brakepads are gonna wear out soon and advice me to replace them.. oddly, i wasn't told about this when the rotors and pads were taken out for skimming and that it's a surprised that the pads worn out so quickly (usually lasts 40,000km, i'm 300km shy of 25,000km)

I spent more than half an hour there pondering whether to replace the brakepads or not (cuz obviously it is pricier than what i can get outside).. after a while, they then give me a good solution lo.. they'll make a claim for new set of rotors, and when the rotors are here, i'll buy new brakepads to be fitted to the rotors) biggrin.gif smile.gif
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Ah, good for you bro. Who you deal with?
Gouki
post Jan 3 2007, 04:39 PM

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QUOTE(zenix @ Jan 2 2007, 03:44 AM)
Normally 3 types of materials are used.

ABS, PU, Fibreglass.

OEM parts are normally ABS.
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OEM bumper or other exterior parts are PP material. ABS is another better plastic material for the interior. Bodykits from Modulo and Mugen are PP material. PU is okay for not too huge size bodykits or else if PU is to be used for large size parts like bumper then the shape will be deform slightly under our hot weather.

PU is harder to be painted not due to the surface compare to fibre. In fact, fibre is even more rough but its's the raw material that make PU harder to be painted. Hence, proper base coat painting is required to be painted properly on PU before color paint. smile.gif

This post has been edited by Gouki: Jan 3 2007, 04:41 PM
Gouki
post Jan 3 2007, 04:44 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jan 3 2007, 04:14 PM)
in your opinion (you CITY owners) is it worth spending RM 60 - 70k on a 2004 / 05 City ISDI?
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How much is the new idsi? If 60k still can consider. but if 70k, i might as well get the new city idsi. Facelifted with more goodies and better looks, free 40000km/2 years service on lubricants, filters, labour and etc and lower loan interest. Lastly, you get to smell the new car scent! tongue.gif
Gouki
post Jan 3 2007, 04:53 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jan 3 2007, 04:47 PM)
IIRC new one is about RM 80k.

so i'm thinking of an 05 version at RM 60 - 65k. not sure about the early 06 version (face lifted) that one maybe close to 70k, not sure.
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Coz sometimes buying 2nd hand car is not worth it if the price is not cheap. You see, if the price is like different by only 10k, normally the higher loan interest for 2nd hand car will end up same price with a new car with lower loan interest and total sum of the car price for both wont be much difference. If so, why dont get a new car? smile.gif
Gouki
post Jan 3 2007, 05:07 PM

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QUOTE(goldfries @ Jan 3 2007, 05:03 PM)
yeah i know. if 10k below a new car, i would rather get new.

but 20k is a lot of difference. within 65k range. it's either a Waja, Myvi, Neo or 2nd hand City - which i'm still thinking whether it is alright to buy.
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65k you can get the 2005 prefacelift city vtec if you hunt around. If the idsi, try bargain more. smile.gif
Gouki
post Jan 12 2007, 02:51 AM

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QUOTE(howiechoo @ Jan 12 2007, 12:36 AM)
u heard the same thing too? it make sense to me...but i dunno true or not...
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If it's bearing, you'll hear very obvious loud humming sound in your cabin. I know that coz i claimed both of the rear bearing of my Jazz. tongue.gif

This post has been edited by Gouki: Jan 12 2007, 02:51 AM
Gouki
post Jan 18 2007, 10:15 AM

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QUOTE(the_registered @ Jan 18 2007, 03:40 AM)
I'm planning to get a VTEC 07' model soon. Really like this car...
but I heard that City's CVT gear box is giving problems
and the CVT gear is very expensive. Can you guys enlighten me on this.

Thank you very much.
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i tot this problem has no more an issue long time ago? blush.gif
Gouki
post Jan 23 2007, 09:26 PM

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QUOTE(mydelsol @ Jan 21 2007, 10:15 PM)
Dear ALL,

THANK YOU, am really humbled by the responce notworthy.gif
Firstly, my apologies, as the car plate number was typed wrongly,
WPD shld have been WPQ, error has been rectified. WPQ 5757

My lawyers are already on the case, and would take (standard Malaysian time)
between now to six months for "process"  rclxub.gif nevetheless me and my
family are praying hard the fella gets what he deserves...
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Well, i'm glad that your dad is okay. My uncle aint that lucky though. Got knocked down by a van when he was riding his bike to work. He passed away about 15 years ago. My dad helped my uncle's wife to file a lawsuit against that moron van driver. And guess what? The lawsuit only settled 3 years back. Damn. shakehead.gif
Gouki
post Feb 12 2007, 10:58 PM

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QUOTE(cskean @ Feb 11 2007, 01:31 PM)
Finally just back from my City Vtec 1st genting trip.....

As I used to drive manual cars previously, so I really don't know the correct way to drive an AT car to genting. So I just use D at the beginning, then I try S and it seem more responsive, finally I try the 7 speed M mode, manage to overtake quite a number of cars....

But I really need advice from GURUs here, which is the proper & CVT Care way(s) to drive our City to genting? By using D mode all the way up or S mode?

Also if I wanted to use my 7speed mode during reving, when is the best RPM that should I change the speed so it won't lost the power?
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Sniff, going up Genting? D and S is good enough. Straight line is best with D and S also. Downhill from Genting? 7-speed manual all the way. If highway corner like at LDP, try D to S twice, meaning D to S to D to S again. L is for when you wanna play drag for startup. If you wanna sprint at 7-speed mode, in manual mode is let it upshift itself once hit the redline. At S mode and redline at 6200rpm all the way is the fastest on straight. biggrin.gif

This post has been edited by Gouki: Feb 12 2007, 10:59 PM
Gouki
post Feb 13 2007, 10:25 AM

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QUOTE(cskean @ Feb 13 2007, 03:34 AM)
S mode max rpm can reach 6200rpm, what bout D mode? Same rpm as well?

Well, City is my 1st own auto car, so I really don't know the better way to drive it since all the while I drive only manual.

I know we can change from D to S mode while we are cruising, but can we change from D to L or S to L? Will it harm the gearbox?

I think I really need some brief explaination on how does the CVT function. Anyone care to help out?

smile.gif
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QUOTE(stalkie @ Feb 13 2007, 07:09 AM)
I also not sure about CVT function... are you guys referring to the 7-mode manual driving? How come most of you scare it will spoil? Is that so fragile? Meaning we can't use it all the time?
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CVT is different from other conventional auto gearbox with torque converter. For example, when you try to do D and S for twice or 3 times, you'll notice the rpm goes higher and higher to do the engine braking. It wont work on normal auto gearbox coz the gear ratio is fix, whereelse CVT doesnt has fixed gear ratio, it's variable to keep you to the optimum powerband according to your throttle input. For example, when you are cruising on D mode, try release the accelerator and full throttle quickly, the rpm will climb immediately and stay at the powerband the ECU think is best, not enough power? Shift to S while full throttle.

How 7-speed mode work in CVT? Actually CVT is something similar to scooter where it's gearless also. The 7-speed mode in City/Jazz are virtual, it's preprogrammed to create the 7-speed from the variable gear ratios. No matter how you use the CVT, make sure change CVT Fluid every 20000km and you'll be fine. smile.gif
Gouki
post Feb 27 2007, 10:20 AM

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QUOTE(unitron @ Feb 14 2007, 01:40 PM)
Gouki or any other out there... just wanted to know anyone have the answer to this question i have.

Does the CVT implementation in the City / Jazz has a torque converter ??
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Well, as far as i know, the CVT in City/Jazz dont come with any torque converter, they come with viscous clutch plate instead. The only CVT from Honda that come with lock-up torque converter that i know of is Oddysey due to it's more powerful and torquey K24A.

City/Jazz suffer power loss more than conventional auto? Compare to what car? Vios? Stock to stock basis? Same dyno machine and person from the same shop? As far as i know, most of my Jazz member get the figure of about 80 ponnies on wheel under stock condition or maybe slightly more with some minor modification. That figure is kinda good when manual 1.6 Neo is also about 80+ ponnies on wheel. I would say our CVT power loss is quite good. But pls bare in mind, a 80 ponnies ride with CVT can give even a 80 ponnies manual some tough time due to it's characteristic smile.gif
Gouki
post Feb 27 2007, 12:17 PM

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QUOTE(zenix @ Feb 27 2007, 11:25 AM)
I don't have a problem going fast with City/Jazz but I'm more concerned about its stopping ability from those speeds  sweat.gif
Jazz/City is an efficient design thats why it has less power loss compared to other cars, for example the steering is electrical instead of using power from the engine.

Going up Genting or roads with gradient a CVT car will always have an advantage. Can even pwn some 2.0 Perdana's  brows.gif
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perdana 2.0? No need uphill lar. Even normal straight open highway also can tapau. Same goes to Camry 2.4, Altis 1.8, Sentra 1.8 and etc. tongue.gif
Gouki
post Feb 27 2007, 12:49 PM

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QUOTE(Dannyl @ Feb 27 2007, 12:46 PM)
Sentra 1.8 wor?  Manual or auto?  The manual is quite powderful... or is that the 1.6... umm, forgot tongue.gif

When doing rapid acceleration on i-DSI S-manual, the RPM should go up to what level before upshifting for max speed?
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Dont talk about the old Sentra Super Saloon lar. Those are really good cars. The current Sentra is crap. tongue.gif
Gouki
post Feb 27 2007, 03:31 PM

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QUOTE(zenix @ Feb 27 2007, 01:46 PM)
Those cars if you're talking about pickup from traffic light of course lah but highway abit difficutl when they already rolling  sweat.gif

Somemore mine is 1.3 i-dsi Jazz not 1.5 vtec city  sweat.gif 

Civic #7 1.7 no problem.
Civic #6 1.6 don't play play
I go Thailand recently saw all the newest Nissan and Mazda models, cun cun. Here? Still using old generation model dry.gif
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Well, either in open highway or corners, they can be pwn with L15A Vtec easily. Civic EK/EG/EF with B16A/B DOHC of coz cant do anything but the local Civic EK 1.6 SOHC can pwn too. I dont complain since Jazz is just a K-car or mini-mpv. smile.gif
Gouki
post Feb 28 2007, 11:15 AM

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QUOTE(Coconut @ Feb 27 2007, 04:59 PM)
perdana v6 2.0 can pwn easily on highway? must salute gouki bro  notworthy.gif

when i was still on 15" stock rims, on highway sticking at the back of this v6, the acceleration from 120-160 totally no fight with him, reach top speed 180 and i think he also maintain at that speed. I m using D-mode manual at that time, squeeze kao kao every hp i have on my car d biggrin.gif
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Try D and S all the way, that's the fastest on the straight, Perdana V6's 4-speed auto is sluggish. blush.gif

QUOTE(egiewan @ Feb 27 2007, 07:45 PM)
Gouki very careful with his words tongue.gif  laugh.gif You sure can play with Camry ah? Camry quite fast woh flex.gif
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Camry 2.4. Yes, i'm sure, heavy and cant turn. Sluggish 4-speed auto. Cant complain since it's design for comfort. smile.gif

PS : the previous generation of Camry.

This post has been edited by Gouki: Feb 28 2007, 11:18 AM

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