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 Engine Oil Reviews/Technical talk v2, Everything Automotive lubricants/fluids

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empire23
post Jan 29 2018, 02:10 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 29 2018, 12:05 PM)
no idea on what the manufacture thermal tolerances are.
But if i'm easily pulling 120c on just gohtong runs on purely stock form, i would assume its much higher than that.

train of thought: 2008 4B10 Mitsubishi engine is already specifying 0w20, albeit depending on higher temperature ranges, xw30 is called upon.

2012 FA20 Subaru engine is specifying 0w20 worldwide regardless of ambient/operating temperatures.
so, should be ok lol.

and yeah, what you mentioned on bolded.
nope, just wanted to make sure i don't blow up/melt my engine.

http://www.team-bhp.com/forum/technical-st...-they-mean.html
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Yeah, but usually synthetic oil doesn't mind anything up to 150+ Celsius.

Looking at the 4U GSE engine, light oil is good.

- It has thinner bearings
- The bearing tolerances are really tight from the factory
- Small piston ring gaps that favour thinner oil
- Roller rockers for the valve train (freakishly tight gap)

If anything I'd probably upgrade the oil pan for more oil and a lowered center of gravity.
empire23
post Jan 29 2018, 03:37 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jan 29 2018, 02:45 PM)
https://engineoil.api.org/directory/eolcssearch

example:
company box put in "petronas"

result:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...nyName=Petronas

select PETRONAS LUBRICANTS INTERNATIONAL SDN BHD, you will get:
https://engineoil.api.org/Directory/EolcsRe...Name%3DPetronas
thanks for the affirmation  notworthy.gif
well, it already requires between 5-5.7 liters of oil during intervals, so more fluids would get things a bit on the crazy side.

That said, if i do get an oil cooler, that itself will contribute in having overall more fluids.
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As long as your oil stays in a temperature with which the engine designers have assumed, it's relatively fine.

The issue is when some run of the mill dude take it out for an occasional hard drive and has thus magically determined he needs a 50 weight oil because he's "hardcore" and 20+ weight oil isn't enough.

That's just going to invite engine failure while robbing the engine of HP.
empire23
post Mar 30 2018, 01:19 PM

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QUOTE(regnox @ Mar 28 2018, 10:41 AM)
HI Sifus,
I’m driving a Honda Civic hybrid
Always using Honda genuine 0w20 and occasional 0w30
Can I opt for Liqui Moly 0w40 synthoil also optimized for fuel economy .. will this affect my engine in anyway or my fc
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A heavier weight oil will definitely increase the FC and increase engine wear due to possible starvation.

Stick to the manufacturer recommended SAE weights. The Civic hybrid was design around 0W-20 and that's the most optimal.
empire23
post Jun 8 2019, 11:25 PM

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This thread reminds me that I haven’t changed the oil in my car for nearly 2 years.

Shit should get to doing it haha but then again I don’t chalk up a lot of mileage.
empire23
post Jun 10 2019, 12:40 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 8 2019, 11:27 PM)
And folks were calling insanity on annual oil changes laugh.gif
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Thought I might as well do everything and given the car has been driven hard, plan to chuck it into storage after the service.

Engine oil - Motul 300V because I have a few tins left
Transmission oil - Pentosin/Titan FFL-4, standard fill
Brake fluid - Castrol SRF, got an unused bottle left from my old Evo
Differential fluid - Motul Gear Competition 75w-140, have 1 botol left from the Evo as well

Will probably change the cabin air filters and wipers too.


empire23
post Jun 10 2019, 02:55 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 10 2019, 02:46 PM)
I'm kinda thinking to shift away from Motul 300v for engine because of pricing.
Still sticking Motul gear 300 for my manual box and gear 300 LS for rear differentials, inugel expert ultra mix 50:50 distilled water as coolant, and Motul DOT 5.1 for both clutch and brake fluids.
Pretty much 100% Motul fluids lol!

But can't really find any other racing/high performance level 0w20 besides Penrite racing 0 many years ago.

Bought a box if 4*5 total 20 liters, sold one on LYN and kinda regretted lol

And now Penrite discontinued racing 0, which puts me back to the drawing board and probably back to 300v again.

What would you recommend for alternative 0w20?
What do you think about Penrite anyways? (You still in Australia right?)
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0W-20 I guess there aren't much choices, 300V 5W-20 is the closest to it, you can choose Redline 0W-20 as an alternative.

I usually use Penrite on my Audi it's my daily get around car. Great performance for the price and their group IV and V mixed base stock means they're pretty close to the type of mix Motul uses.
empire23
post Jun 11 2019, 02:58 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 10 2019, 05:51 PM)
Motul have 300v 0w20 no problem
I even had them done (finally! Lol) on my 86 as well (posted earlier and on first page)

I'm not so sure about Redline, and it's weird that they don't bother with API despite being American. I don't think they have strong PAO/Ester base stocks lineup, generally group 3 and just whack it with additives like Zinc/moly (from other people UOA And my own for MTL Gear oil)

Their pricing today are still very attractive even in Malaysian volatile market.

I'll probably have to look up their engine oil lineup again, maybe they've updated.
I know they recently launched a new gear oil series (NS) that is GL4/5 both compatible for manual gearboxes like Subaru that shares front differentials and manual shifting/yellow metal synchros in their AWD.

Motul gear 300 was expensive albeit it's both GL4 and 5 compatible as well, and now Redline joined the bandwagon for owner's dilemma to either prioritize the synchros/shifting feel, OR differentials/gear sets and overall wear

which Penrite model you used?
Any chance you have feedback on Penrite racing 5 (5w30) or Enviro+ 0w20, or their racing (top of the line)/Enviro series in general?

Or better yet, VOA/UOA information?
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Well I've used Redline before and they've been quite ok but not in the past few years. As for API, I only know API-570 haha. But their new line up is pretty good I hear, haven't really had the time to have a look.

I've used Penrite Racing before in my cars, no complaints on my old M235i, it ran well enough. But my grocery shopping car being a slow 150kW 2.0 TFSI Q3 doesn't really need expensive race oils, I did the last service with Penrite HPR which is a group III/IV blend. Racing 10 Tenths is 100 percent PAO/Ester but I'm not really interested in performance for this car.

Haven't really done VOAs for a long time since I left Origin. I used to have access to the Eng dept's used oil analysis Spectrosci uni so it was free for me, now it isn't haha.


empire23
post Jun 12 2019, 09:05 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 12 2019, 02:34 AM)
Lol pipings laugh.gif

The bummer for Penrite is that I either have to go racing 5, or go Eco Enviro+ for 0w20
While I'm ok to go down a tier or 2 over racing/top of the line, Enviro is just... No way man tongue.gif

Damn you for having free VOA/UOA lol
Have to pay through my nose to send them to USA Blackstone as ironically doing it locally is easily 3 to 5 times the cost
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Yeah, mostly piping here and since we deal a lot compressors, turbines and large systems with dedicated lubrication circuits and seal gas bearing, onsite UOA is pretty much standard for places deemed major facilities. Chevron even has a dedicated and fully staffed lab on Barrow Island for UOA and chemical analysis to keep the plant running.

Planning to get the 981 as my daily gokart, but can't seem to find one that fits my bill for now.

UOA was never very popular in Malaysia, car enthusiasts generally haven't caught up to it yet. It's a great way to build a maintenance baseline though.
empire23
post Jun 13 2019, 08:15 AM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Jun 12 2019, 07:40 PM)
wow 981... your life my dream tongue.gif

it is a pity really, when we're still stuck on "OIL MANTAPS" talks:
"i dunno, feels smooth"
"use a while no smooth"
and among the annoying ones:
"WA HOW CAN USE WINTER OIL?"
"YOU PREPARE HALF CUT YET?"
"MALAYSIA HOT, ONLY OTHER COUNTRY GOT WINTER COLD!"

after almost 5 years since i start diving into UOA, i STILL get people unable to accept 0w20 despite that's what the manufacturer calling for.
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Well, tribology is as we say the bastard child of mechanical engineering and chemistry. The complexity of both makes it a very complex topic, so people like to simplify it mah.

When you going to turbine level quantities and potentially non-Newtonian fluids, we already sit down an calculate shit like Reynolds numbers and shear viscosity effects, so I can understand why people prefer the butt dyno.

That's why we pay the Tribo experts so much laugh.gif

But as for me, if you have a good baseline and one oil works well for the car, it'll be fine. The key is to choosing the right characteristics for the right engine, and the best place to start is the manufacturers recommendations. Even with all our lab equipment, test systems and literally a giant oil company behind us, we always start from what the OEM/Vendor recommends and assume it's the best.
empire23
post Dec 2 2019, 03:59 PM

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QUOTE(wkc5657 @ Dec 2 2019, 03:40 PM)
bulk of the cost lies within the base oil and distribution...

empire23 , can you confirm?
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Yeah the majority of the cost goes into the base oil, distribution and of course RnD.

It's also worth remembering that even from the same plant, depending on the feedstock, quality can vary, so batch testing and QA/QC processes forms a sizable chunk of cost as well.
empire23
post Mar 23 2022, 05:03 PM

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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Mar 23 2022, 04:39 PM)
goldfries

what's a good way to link [img] tags without up setting the forum limits? i got self host server so maybe instead of directly displaying the image, just a picture link?
also what's the maximum img tags a post can contain?
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25 if i recall correctly.

Which reminds me I have to do an oil change on my car and do the brakes as well.

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