jangan fuiyoooo.. your also can become Mercedes fiesta
ya i feel cantik tooo.. especially when signalling,, will change from white to yellow (keep blinking)

won't la... why take 3 hour to do this? because need to heat up the "gum" (when the gum is heat up.. it will become loosen and take out the cover.) After finish.. need to heat up the "gum" again and put it back.. after that have to wait for 5~10min until the "gum" cool down.. it will lock tight tight and confirm won't masuk air...

the down side is.. proton headlight plastic cover is really bad quality... grip are not good >.<"

Mau chantek, took 3 hours job, jiu komplen
Wang dyno, go Senawang oni, jiu komplen

NMGH

typical Raszus Chia @ Quat Qom Plen.. 

Fuh!!! Top speed run was fun! Din't know got such dyno technique Result is unreliable as you told, but compared with 4 gear run it shows what is hidden in between, the USABLE HORSE POWAH! And, not much tuning being done other than retarded my ignition timing abit(thought he's gonna advance it since he did to kennywee92) Funny enough, 4whp gain though Marthafarkinvelous

DYNO does not increase horse powah. DYNO TUNE does. You richfag can go SUNWAY area ask pipu DYNO tune your CVT geh, see how much they charge lar(or whether they tell you CVT kenot DYNO) And yes, luckily my face still worth the old price

I tot jiu sei Senawang far mah, Sunwei kaan hou 9 lan 7 doh

Here's a situation, a car that is currently running optimal. Dyno proven 78whp, could fall back to 74whp if electric current disruption occurred, which its settings were reside at conventional RAM currently. In order to further improve its power output, below are the mod list that has proven on multiple dynoed vehicles.

1) Extractor:
A. 4-2-1 extractor to replace stock 4-1 short runner cast iron extractor, which its O2 sensor located at Y joint instead of cylinder 3. Expected power up 5whp
B. 4-1 long runner, which O2 sensor located at cylinder 3. Upside is, minimum mod is required, does not need to change O2 location & the product is cheap, widely available & compatible with all Campros. Down side is, O2 reading inconsistent. Low end & mid range compromised. Expected power up 3-5whp depending on RPM range.
2) Mid box:
A. Twin chambered resonator, to replaced stock single chambered resonator. Expected power up 0whp but to have even more silence output + benefit of force feedback due to long runner extractor got the tendancy of lag. Its expected to reduce throttle lag after extractor mod combined with twin chamber resonator.
B. Swirl flow bullet. Induce high suction power, great benefit for mid/high end. Cheap and widely available. Expected power up 1-2whp. Due to swirl flow design has some barrier, low end output/response is expected to be acceptably good, but exhaust noise will sound like FART. If u r not sure how it sound like, go to your kitchen, floot your sink and let loose of the clog. Pay attention towards the end of the water evac, that's exactly how a swirl flow sounded like.
C. Straight flow bullet. None blockage exhaust flow. Sounded garang and great benefit for mid/high end RPM. Expected power up 3-5whp on top end, but least expect on lower rpm range. Intense traffic condition on low RPM pickup could feel the car juddering if rear muffler is not well feedback.
3) Muffler:
A. Waja CPS single chamber twin tip muffler. Does not compromise with exhaust noise but induce higher exhaust flow compare to stock 3 chambered muffler. Benefit for after 4krpm. Expected power up 3-5whp depending on the extractor/mid box setup.
B. S-flow. Does what a straight flow do, less noisy and can benefit from mid/high end. Expected power up 5whp.
C. Straight flow. Has to be bundled with chambered mid box, otherwise power loss. If everything is setup properly, expected out put 5-8whp at top end.

The above are based on multiple vehicles input, stage by stage dyno test results. It could be bogus as dyno wasn't done on the same day. Note that temperature & humidity can affect engine output, given different fuel can produce different kind of result, hence the "actual" output is only meant for a rough reference. Take this "test" as a survey for future reference.

Raszus chia, you no need mod also fast...

I have myself choose all the A in my list, which generally no 1 wants it. Reason?

1) Market always tells you 4-1 guding and cheap, hence everybody goes 4-1 extractor. The same amount of moolah u spent on a full SS 4-1 extractor probably still cheaper than a black steel pipe 4-2-1 extractor

2) When u tell the ekzos sifu u wanted a chambered midbox, he'll ask u rather keep the stock box. Reason? General public always talk about high flow and forgetting how small your engine output is. 1.3 for my case? and your unmodded 1.6 kampro that came with a CVT box which require feedback. So, go ahead and do what other people suggest u to do, a bullet. My pick is still A, a chamber resonator, but that came with an expansive price tag. So, probably going for B, swirl flow like farting all the way.

3) Stock chambered muffler? 9 out of 10 ekzos modder aim for SOUND. As for power output, butt dyno is enough. Got the sound ady, automatically FEEL faster I seldom see people will go dyno for an exhaust mod other than those few that I got my data from. The reason I go for chamber muffler got only 2 reasons, 1 is the drive the car with stealthyness(as silent as stock muffler), another thing is chamber muffler got no muffle material use other than the chamber itself. So I can continue the stealth driving until the muffler rust a hole on it

So, you do not need to wait for me to mod. The data is already given, and you may pick your stake from there.

Edit: FYI, just incase if you're interested to see

Here's the cut out of performance chambered muffler


Compare with stock chambered muffler