I think the 7D II is only good for sports shooter. Most people will still buy the 70D instead, more features compared to the 7D other than AF and burst.

1. you sure it's lens problem? first time i hear of such.

2. fixed lens can capture good video too, it depends on how you use it.

3. actually both prime and zoom lenses will help you in your photography.

4. zoom lenses have environmental constraints too.

5. low light is flash / tripod / stabilizer. it depends on what your scene is.

I'm use both zoom lens and prime lens for my commercial work. I've not used my 50mm for a long time since I got the EF-S 15-85.

Video? I use high ISO. Don't care just whack only.

Not surprising though, my friends had problem with Tamron 24-70 VC USD as well.

Tamron distributor did acknowledge to me when I ask them last year, that they have problem with Canon bodies.

As for the lens, just find out which one you like. I use both zooms and primes, different lens for different purpose. My zooms are for interior photo, event and pictures of my meal of which I'll set the 15-85 to 50mm range.

For actual commercial work (eg food photo) then I use my EF 50mm f1.4 because it's not helpful when the zoom range keep changing as the EF-S 15-85 has heavy front element. I'll use the 100mm f2.8 macro for small food.

On the contrary, my friends and I use prime lenses only. We have all sorts ranging from 14, 24, 35, 50, 85, 135 to 200.

For primes:
Might be hard to start with but once you get the hang of it, primes are actually much handier than zooms in the sense that you know which lens are made to fulfill or create what kind of images. So once you've set your mind on an image you want to create, which lens to use becomes apparent.

For zooms:
What I have personally experienced is that the 16-35 is an easy lens to use, you need time to get used to it, yes, but still easy to capture stunning images with it. However with the 24-70 is another story. At f2.8, the lens doesn't actually give you much depth to play with, so it depends more on your skill to create great images. And the 70-200 f2.8/f4 are great lenses to whoever knows what they wanna do with it.

Zoom lenses such as the Tamron 24-70 VC/Canon 24-105L IS works great due to the VC/IS but you'll have to make do with the distortion(which can be hard to be fixed if video) and, possibly, lower image quality. However new Canon lenses such as the 16-35L F4 IS and the 24-70L F4 IS are excellent in terms of image quality and IS performance but F4 is an extreme letdown if you're doing any amateur to advanced videography.

For video purposes, I can tell you that in dim location I still need to use up to ISO3200 for 1/50 or 1/30 shutter speeds (that is if you're shooting 30fps, for 60fps setting you will have to make do with 1/100 shutter speed to eliminate flicker) with prime lenses that are f2 and below. For you info, f1.4 -> f2.8 is 2 stops. So at f1.4 you may need just ISO1600 but with f2.8 you'll need ISO6400 to achieve the same brightness.

The Canon 50 1.4 and 85 1.8 are great and affordable lenses for both video and photos. Both are around RM900 used each.

Fujifilm isn't anu kind of vintage camera imo. it's a modern camera hiding inside a classic looking shell.

Not an expert in food photography but I think a simple kit lens can do the job? And for the 85mm, there's no specific purpose imo, you can use it for everything anyways (well that kinda applies to all the lenses out there), but most people would use it for portrait or low light (where the f1.8 or larger aperture comes in handy).

If you're on APSC then a 50mm lens has a fov of 80mm lens while a 85mm lens will result in a fov of 136mm. So I suggest you go try it out yourself

I'v shopped from these guys before.

www.miyamondo.com.my
www.cameravalley.com.my

If you find cheaper than these guys tell me.

How do you compare wide angle to portrait 
We can shoot portrait with wide angle too.

What are you using it for ?
F/2.8 will be more useful for astrophotography and videography(lowlight)

if you shoot low light including moving subject, get the tokina.

if not, get the canon, way smaller, cheaper, quite sharp and has IS (super useful for video).

Additional advantage to the tokina 11-16mm is that it can be mounted onto full frame and be used at 16mm.  So if you upgrade to FF you don't have to panic and got UWA covered right away.

your budget will help you decide, each lens have pros and cons from price, performance and resell value...

Are you SURE Sigma Art lens price is 'quite' similar to Canon EF and Sigma Non-Art lens ?

30mm and 50mm is totally giving different prospective IF you know how to make use of the focal length. Of course longer throw will have better bokeh ....still depend what you want.

If street photography on crop sensor = 30/35mm is best , if on FF 35mm is just great...

do you really will notice the bokeh difference between the lenses? ask yourself. other than those pixel peeper or pro photographer that wants very smooth bokeh, most lenses will produce bokeh enough for a lot of us who is just hobbyist.

AND its always kinda of annoying + sad seeing ppl said ' my friend says....this good that good, i see my friend use this that good...' to me its like COME ON mate, what era are you in now...takkan friend ask you go jump river you also follow....

I call it butt itchy or self poisoning syndrome, friends have I must have, forumer's have I must have it. Been through that.

Anyway as I progress, I put more effort on how to execute the shot rather then being so picky on gears. Infact nowadays I shot mostly with the unholy plastic 50F1.8 leaving all the Lansi lens inside dry cab

pandainya u putar belit 

you really need to stop nit picking not important things.