I see his tires I also shiver 

All 4 tyre leh (at lease also 3 tyre) there gone almost 1k

Original lo ... even my Taiwan made headlamp they also replace back the original, just GB they just recondition it as unable to claim ... didn't feel my gear got problem ...
that is budget la .... if got budget and good tyre sure good loh ~

change 2 tyre those botak 1st... thn plonk to rear, then old wan put front use untill kong...
if heavy rain with alot water puddle u still dare to drive ar?

Selepas setahun pakai saga, sudah ada bunyi tak3.. maybe the brake drum. and both front window switchs pun ada problem... uhuk2. i wonder if go to sc to solve the problemo, oso kena labour caj...

sorry dares, not explains details enough. What i mean is when u do complaints, normally during service, its better at branch sc coz the complaint will directly link to hq. And easier to claim parts coz dealers, they are quite limited authorithy in claiming parts coz there have been some cases before where dealers claim for customers, but not change it, but sell it to others. So, customers run amok coz thought part being replaced with new one, but stated given part rosak where the irresponsible sc doing the ....

For servicing, its ok, just remebered to get the stamp everytime servicing as proof.

Got fake Saga meh?

coolant is the air cond coolant or car engine coolant or both is same actually?   
he said can drive LOL
and refill water...

eh my aircond not kuat anymore.
some more got periodic hissing sound when driving.
any idea?

For air-cond service matter:

Under 2 scenario:
1) Olskol aircon setup with R12 gas, without cabin filter, compressor without torque cut out. You NEED to do aircon service under routine bassis.

2) Neuskol aircon setup with R134 gas, with cabin filter, compressor got torque cut out function, you only NEED to do some regular DIY maintenance or send in aircon guy/SC to let them cut throat.

Things to take care:
1) Olskol aircon came with R12 gas, low pressure, high cooling effect, bad thing is because it cool so fast and the gasket/insuflex suffer from drastic changed in temperature. It will develope symptoms like gas leak, dirty condensor(residue of koyak gasket). Regular service is inevitable, because those days cooling coil was blown directly by the blower. U know I know blower suck recycle air from the passenger glovebox compartment. Without paper filter, human slime/saliva kena suck in & lekat at the cooling coil, later dust kena stick by the saliva. After 2-3 years of none stop accumulation, your coolig coil can't even squeeze an ant. At that time, u go service aicond, the mech use chemical to clean, if your coil still thick can stand la. Otherwise like Z1 cakap will bocor then your money gone.

Some preventive action may reduce chance of money fly away is to make sure your passenger side floor mat is clean! This will reduce dust being suck in by the blower. If you use coil mat, buy an extra RUBBER MAT put on top, RM8/pc only. Make sure u soak the rubber mat with soap water 1st before use, otherwise those chemical smell can make u high. Refrain from using clip on liquid freshener(increase of slime). Ask your passenger talk gently, don't spill saliva. Vacum your cooling coil & wind channel once in a blue moon. Your olskol aircond system can easily lat u 5 years+ before any major issue occur.

2) Neuskol aircon is easier to take care. R134 gas need higher pressure, but slower cooling effect compare to olskol. However, car manufacturer use high speed blower to overcome this problem. Basically the whole aircon system was designed to withstand outside high heat, cabin cold environment. We GaGa citizens consider blessed bcoz new technology applied. By adding a piece of paper filter can draw extra moisture/human slime(saliva)/body odor from recycling. When cooling coil dry means dust very hard to stick. If you don't have a paper filter, buy 1 and install it. Change your cabin filter if wind doesn't get through. Other than that, normal maintenance like cleaning wind channel will do.

Some common stuff
I personally don't do air-cond service until something wrong. Just take note on these few things and u save your wallet being punctured a big hole.

1) If aircon suddenly not cold, please switch off aircond immediately. It could be cooling coil too dirty, dirt stuck at cooling fin become ice, wind couldn't get through. If keep on powering up aircon, refigerant also become ice, ended up extreme pressure may blow -» cooling coil/hose/compressor. Service cooling coil.

2) When sometimes cold sometimes not cold, could be thermostat jammed. When this happened, your compressor could overworked and keep charging refigerant into the cooling coil. As a result, condensor overheat may cause radiator boil oso.

3) When traffic jam time, aircon not cold. Could be your radiator fan. Bear in mind GaGa only got 1 fan. Get the fan thoroughly inspect, or you may melt your engine.

4) Continue number 3, radiator coolant too low, sensor didn't get trigger to spin the fan. Check radiator/water pump whether function properly.

5) When aircon kick in can hear fry clam sound from compressor... You have a leak hose previously. Refigerant came with lubricants, when u leak gas you tend to lose lubricant. The wear off piston/valves/fin in the compressor normally developed after refigerant leak. Nothing much u can do to rectify. Add a can of additive to the compressor to try your luck see how long can it last. Don't bother to service your aicond system at this time, unless you already planned to change the compressor.

In short, whenever you discover aircond no longer cold, it means lost of refigerant/valve sumbat. Turn off your aircond and send for service immediately. I'm not talking about no wind come out, if no wind check blower. I service repair my aircon in Taman Kinrara YKS behind AmBank. Not the cheapest in town, but price is reasonable & very honest tauke. Whenever thing can be use back, he will try to retain. Very detail thorough work, lots of explaination when asked. 5 thumbs up, 2 hands, 2 legs and... Nevermind la

Help! My car 2005 Savvy MT overheat then cannot start.

Today got stuck in traffic jam, then the car start to overheat. At 6 bar then I stopped by the roadside for, switch off engine fully. After 15 minutes restart the engine the see temp back down to 4 bar, I bravely reenter the jam and after about 10 minutes the temp shoot back-up and I pull over the roadside one more time. Wait for another 10 min then try to restart, but cannot. During crank sound like no power, battery low. Any ideas why? The car still by the roadside need to rush as got exam at school today, will deal right after this... Now cannot concentrate. Any suggestion is very much appreciated!

For you info just change the car rear brake pump due to leak, and done full bleeding just before the new year.

You got go refill radiator water during water boil that time? If yes, you need to open the dipstick and check engine oil now. If engine oil ady become nescafe kaler.... head sudah bengkok, gasket dah bocor. Ready for a full overhaul.

Again, not clear on how does the starter sound like. Would you mind record it? Can't start AFTER HIGH TEMPERATURE is indeed extremely worrying for me, don't know about how you people can put up a statement "BRAVELY REENTER THE JAM" 15 mins after full 6 bars overheat.

Hi Bro...

Not me la, u mistaken me for someone else lo. I never talk in public mia. No wanna touch.
Put me on god table again 

Sadding...

Oic, does manual saga sv fc better than cvt version?

CVT can be more efficient than manual because:

1. The engine can always be revving at the most efficient speed, while for fixed ratio gearboxes the engine typically doesn't stay in the efficient powerband a lot of the time.

2. There is no interruption while accelerating. Even the fastest manual shifters will still have a spilt second when the engine is not driving the wheels between shifts.

3. If you drive a manual properly, you would rev match a lot. Pressing the throttle in neutral or with the clutch disengaged is just wasting fuel.

There are some points for manual driving:

- When accelerating, if you are too slow you waste fuel by not covering ground fast enough, too fast and you also waste fuel by spraying an unnecessarily rich mixture which does not translate into acceleration. I believe there are two different ways which people feel the throttle, first is press to a fixed point immediately and wait for the revs to catch up, the second is to gently ease up the revs while pressing the pedal. The latter is definitely more efficient. Change up when you feel the engine has reached its sweet spot.

- When to shift up? I personally don't think there's a fixed point such as 2,000 RPM. It depends on the traffic situation and road condition. For example if traffic is moving slowly then I shift up really early, by 40 km/h I'm already in 4th gear (gentle acceleration) (bear in mind your Getrag has taller ratios than my Aichi Pockai). If it's an open road ahead then I tend to drag gears a little longer, because if I shift too early, the engine will be well below the efficient torque band, which brings us to the next point...

- Use the correct gear for the correct condition. Ever ridden a multi-speed bicycle? Your car engine feels exactly the same as when you're pedaling a bike. I think people who have spent a lot of time cycling are more efficient manual drivers as they understand the principles of gearing. The first thing to know is that lower RPM does not necessarily mean better efficiency. The low RPM = efficient rule only applies if you're cruising at a constant speed or accelerating *very* gently on flat ground or going downhill. For going uphill, you probably already know that you need to rev higher by using a lower ratio. For example, climbing up a moderate slope at 40 km/h in 4th gear which on my gearbox will give me about 2,000 RPM. With that ratio, you probably have to open the throttle quite a bit to maintain that speed, so a lot of fuel is pumped into the engine but the ratio is too high and you may feel the engine struggle to maintain that speed. However if you climb the same slope at 40 km/h but in 3rd gear, your revs will be closer to 3,000 RPM and you don't have to open the throttle as much as you did in 4th gear, so it's actually more efficient even though your engine revs are higher.

Also other points regardless of gearbox:

- Anticipate the traffic in front of you. Look beyond the car directly in front and observe the traffic flow. My favourite way to measure how well you do this is to watch the brake lights of the car in front and count how many times they brake compared to how many times you brake. I find that generally, for every 5 or 6 times the car in front brakes, I only brake once. Remember that braking converts your car kinetic energy into heat and every time you brake, you have to accelerate and burn fuel to regain your speed. Therefore a driver who brakes minimally is an efficient driver. You must use your brakes when necessary, such as coming to a stop but generally, drive in a manner which minimises braking. In heavy traffic, accelerate gently. Don't attempt to block vehicles cutting in front of you. If you see a red light in front, lift off the throttle and coast.

- The most efficient cruising speed is around 80-90 km/h. Any faster and your engine will be wasting power unnecessarily on overcoming drag from air resistance. Following this rule I managed to hit 546 km on about 34L, gogoman86 who has done 600+ km on a tank will probably tell you the same too.

- If your time is flexible, avoid traffic jams. It's a 20 km drive to office for me every day. In the mornings if I leave at 7 or 8 am, it takes an hour to get to office. However after 9 am the time is reduced to less than half an hour. As for coming home, the earliest time I leave office is 7 pm, because before that various places will be congested. I can leave at about 6+, but I choose to stay to 7+ just to beat the jam.

- Watch the air cond thermostat. The colder your setting, the more often the compressor has to run and more fuel will be burnt. For me, the warmest temperature and blower speed 1 will suffice at night and early morning, during mid-day blower speed 2 and thermostat somewhere in the middle. Also I wait for the engine to warm up first by driving a few kilometres before turning the air-cond. The engine is thirsty when cold and there's no need to add additional load then.

- Generally engine oil has negligible difference on consumption. Been on 15w50 from new until 50,000 km, then switched to 10w30 but I don't think that has improved my consumption. My previous 546 km on a tank and also 20 km/L achieved on a midnight run with davidke20 were on 15w50. 

- There's only a certain amount you can do to improve your consumption. When I lived in PJ I could consistently hit below 8L/100 km and get 400-450 km a tank (sometimes more, especially with trips to KLIA), however here in Penang I normally get about 8-8.5L/100km due traffic lights every few hundred metres. I've tried really hard, following all the points mentioned above and going as far as switching off the engine at traffic lights (manual stop-start) but it's still very hard to get below 8L/100 km on this Island. The Campro engine is thirsty by nature and initially available only with poor gearbox choices, but now with the CVT and Getrag manual you guys are better off than us stuck with the older gearbox. So don't feel overly frustrated if your figures are not looking good, apply all the points above and if you're really fed up, sell the Gaga and buy a BiBa / Mirage / secondhand Sawi.

- If you haven't already done so, go sign up for an account at www.fuelly.com so that you can log and analyse your consumption over time.

the manual gear ratio is slighty higher than the cvt right?
As far as i know, cvt is running at 2500rpm when 100kmh, what about manual?correct me if i am wrong

same RPM, cvt reverse faster liaou