Official report to TS v12kompressor

Thread piktar is down due to some moron didn't pay imagesux premium membershit fee. So I would sarjes for temporary measure borrow from fantasstiko until we have our own. May be ask erixmaxman to help us out?

http://baike.baidu.com/view/491502.htm?fr=aladdin

Ok forget about my previous reply, this 1 worthwhile

http://zhidao.baidu.com/question/193026782.html

Myvi rite God I lurv that car

Technically, it doesn't change anything. It just that some procedure will reset the response time of the gas pedal input. Like you said, after the reset give it a few WOT so the pedal will adapt to your aggressive driving style

Try this:

Relief the lever under steering console so you can adjust your steering positioning. Then the great tune up begun. Must follow accordingly and do it in a correct manner to see the result!

Up

Down

Up

Down

Left

Right

Left

Right

Flicker the shift stick to the most left, most right, most left, most right in neutral(For MT)
Flicker the shift stick from P to N to P to N to P(For AT)

Hit the brake

Start car

By doing this correctly, it's expected to have 30hp extra on the next start up.

Those who at their aged between 30~40s should be very familiar with this trick from Super Nintendo

win ka liao

Even in my 30's, back then I still can't afford a Nintendo. I beg my parents until wanna commit suicide, still no go. In the end, I used the money I earned by selling prawn diskette to school mates to buy 1. But then, by the time I can afford, it ady outdated. People are talking about Sega Saturn, then Nintendo Neo64, follow by the great migration of Sori Praystation Nintendo price from RM360/console in the 80's dropped to RM42 in the 90's. The game cartrage itself cost more than buying the game console

Not applicable to 4AT BLM/FL

Extremely sarcastic

Particularly useful for MT cars because shifting will affect pedal input. Some like to sprint at lower gear but higher RPM. Usually these fellas namely ericmaxman himself. However, for those who like to go WOT whilst on higher gear, get less sprint and annoying flywheel vibration is my waifu type. So, the reset will help the 1st case, but not my waifu case. The original toto positioning is made to fit ordinary driving style geh. After many high RPM rev, the pedal sensitivity will goes down due to training. It's either no go or go red line. After the reset, the sensitivity will be restored.

Not quite applicable because AT pipu usually already well trained their right leg to react on the auto clutch. Everytime shift up will automatically relief the right leg a bit to avoid shiftshock. Jiu go try again, pay attention to your right leg see whether it's real everytime upshift jiu also will hesitate the right foot awhile until fully clutch in So, even reset already, you can't really feel much different as you've been always training the pedal sensitivity at the right pace

interesting, where to bai?

I and magician some study back then when I newly purchase GaGa. Since I complaint too much on the DbW lag, we did 1st hand research, a thorough 1s on BLM/FL between AT/MT. We came to believe BLM/FL ran on a far more efficient fuel mapping. Don't ask why until next private TT.

For the toto reset. That is WHEN YOU WANTO BELIEVE SOMETHING THAT YOU WANTO BELIEVE. Ma go ahead rely on your butt lor. Besides, nothing to lose what. Eric out of good heart come share with us, it'll be very glad for him to find if more people benefit from his contribution. I've contributed my share of experience with Eric himself with a lengthy feedback privately. Seriously, I don't feel much different on my GaGa, however there's a noticeable change on my Shawie. Regardless of all that, after several on/off engine and some distance travelled, it seems very quickly back to before reset. I came to a conclusion, it's my vacuum limited driving style that kills the fun of it. Regardless how sensitive the pedal can be tuned/reset, if I drive within 10~15inhg, there isn't any speedy response can be mention at that region

Wouldn't cost you a dime to try it out. It's free. If successful and did mechanically improved it, we need to bai tohsai belanja ericmaxman liao. Those who applied it, all kamout each of us bai him 1 tohsai and he must finish it on the spot If it's only butt dyno, also not bad geh. Again, it's free. Free to get happiness. If I can prove it's butt dyno efek only, I hope I can call everybody who applied the method kamout each of us bai eric 2 tohsai and he must finish it on the spot as a thank note

<1k

engine output torque/horsepower increase

seriously?

I would suggest you to do some accessories mod. Namely ammoshaftthunderstorm by V12kompressor, that is proven of reliability and power output increase. Other than that, plonk good grade voltage stabilizers and grounding cables from Mahihi may help in improving ignition response(no janji horsepower increase though). Lastly, some quality intake system/exhaust muffler mod. That should probably sum up a total of 1k budget already(probably exceed).

go jalan ipork meet at nestum shop, tohsai TT with me

Just wondering, did you throw away the stock struts or safe keep for rainny days? Would like to have it if let go

Usually your kind of a customer came, I will get them to look for which car they want. If ngam ady, I will just name a lowest possible price that can match with mudah.my. Then only start to add back on all the road worthy things 1 by 1 to the cost, like insurance/roadtax/transfer fee/admin fee/bank loan agreement fee. Usually, when add those things up the price will be similar to listing price already

Sir you don't bloody use your judgement to say my car faulty. If you think that part is faulty, then don't buy that damn car, we've got many other similar model which is less likely to be found faulty as this 1 you chosen. If you think it's a must to replace before you decided to buy? Fine then, put down your downpayment with my terms and condition and the agreed purchased price on DOCUMENT, then I'll repair it on the spot UNTIL you satisfied with the FAULTY PART BY YOUR JUDGEMENT, and what not free test drive on my company trade plate + petrol expanses!

Come on lar brother. You think used car sohigh? We can pretend sohigh and let you squeeze geh. You wouldn't know what is going to fail AFTER the warranty provided period. If you go easy on squeezing price, chances are - me will throw in a few tips to let you know what to expect to breakdown soon, and what can I cover for your loss during warranty period. Buying 2nd hand car is buying a risk regardless. What warranty used car can provide are all rubbish. If you deal nice with the sales person, talk fact and let him know you're in a situation. Pretend Khor Lian infront, chances are you get a real deal kind of tip top condition car. Squeezing price is the last thing I would do in buying 2nd hand car if you ask me. In the end, if the price not ngam in the 1st place, why do you walk in? If walked in already, means I'm interested in the car, why not get them to fix it properly for me so I have a peace of mind owning the car.

Few last tips, we like to put saw dust into the engine oil. Your tepet will silent until kenot hear even the car started. We also like to put BUTTER(edible) from the inside of FEAD belt before spraying the whole engine compartment with WD40 so the damn thing will look fresh out from the factory with 0 squeeking noise from the beltings. For rear wheel drive car, if the rear differential is dying anytime soon, we will put 1 stick of TESCO brand tooth paste inside the gear oil, again no more sound will emit before the whole axle break into a billion pieces, also very useful for AT cars. We've got specialized personnel who is able to TUNE the digital ODOMETER back to slightly below 90k km, so the mileage doesn't look ridiculously NEW or too run down. Not all car we will apply these procedure, but we certainly know which unit has the special treatment already. For lansi customer like you, probably is going to get 1 of these GOOD AS IS unit

If don't know, don't simply teach people. Used car fellas are usually arse holes, but they also scared of innocent people geh. The more innocent you are, the worst they feel bad to cheat on you. But ofcourse, you must NOT be innocent to be innocent in the 1st place lar Some of the useful question you may ask as below:

1) How much is the timing belt cost for this car? Has it been changed? At how many KM? Will you cover that cost for me? Not a chance? Ok fine I think I can managed it if you can discount just the timing belt costing for me, will it be ok with you?
Atleast now you know when to change timing belt, and probably get a small discount from the purchase.

2) I know the price tag is there, is that on the road price liao? Or I need to pay for the administration like insurance, roadtax, bankloan fee...etc? I have a job, but my gaji is only 3.5k, also have other commitment such as another car and a house which currently paying 1.7k. Do you think I can afford this car? Or you can help me submit credit rating report?
Atleast if you kenot pass the loan, immediately the fella can tell you what to do instead of wasting time submit loan, after 1 week to a disappointment.

3) Mr.Salesperson, I've to be honest with you. Before I walked into this shop, I've went through several shops, basically most of your cars I've seen are in similar condition and price tag. I don't think I can make up my mind to buy which 1 and these cars all seems equally good to me, price also attractive. Please, tell me 1 more reason, for the same RM17k pricetag, why should I buy from you?
Now you get to see the true color of the sales person. They'll pull our their CN show you how much they buy the car back lar, what has been repaired lar, how much they spent on the car lar, tauke untung how much lar, his commission lar. In the end, they'll die die give you 1 last discount

Take these 3 most important set of OPEN ENDED questions, you're going to buy REAL DEAL. I can't guarantee you get a problem free car, but I can guarantee the sales person will give you WHAT THEY REALLY THINK IT'S A GOOD DEAL FOR YOU!

Good luck

Dont read

Bat3 kong