dat one really long long time ago....

so you've been driving a sampan all this while? 

i never try before wo 

i must not be the norm here as i don't refer my mom as amoi/awek.
not to mention, i don't think it "counts" when it's your mom/sister.

but of course to each his own.

no budget mah, get 2nd hand lor

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Added on October 19, 2012, 1:41 pmAnd this is for 2ndhenkar buyer:

I just had a conversation with my fren, he was asking to buy a dugong. Since he insist, I suggest for a 2nd hand dugong for 40k, but he said 2nd hand car always give problem,need to repair this repair that dowan! I said fine, u buy a new dugong, whatcha gonna do with the Gancil? He wanted to sell it 2nd hand. I offer RM3k, he said too low. Then start telling me how good his car is, regular service lar, no problem at all lar, aircon cold lar, this lar that lar bla bla bla. I shoot him back, u say 2nd hand car sure got problem 1 ma. U say need to repair this repair that ma.

Buying a 2nd hand car is a risk. You know, I know, everybody knows. Don't expect to buy it and drive like its fresh out from the factory. Some crusial thing u should change immediately before u start whacking the car, such as:

Cabin filter/Air filter(if its dirty)
Engine oil
Gear oil
Brake fluid
Tangki flush
Power steering fluid
Timing belt/acc belt

Check alignment, swap tires if need be. Change tire if expired. Unless previous owner supply with full maintenance record with receipts, otherwise those are time bombs.

I don't buy new car simply because its way too expansive and depreciate faster than I can earn. I know cars & half the time I'm fixing my cars, so buying 2nd hand car make sense to me. I'm not expecting you to follow, just sharing my point of view.

I was told 1.6 blm is better than 1.3
so looking for 2nd hand 1.6 fl blm (but no manual in the market)
so i guess just go for Auto la..
 
THank you sifu for the explanation,

that mean no ABS lo ?

i don't want current FLX model, i don't like CVT gearbox

perhaps the normal one better.. that why i looking for proton 2011 and earlier model..

1.6cc cannot get 22-24k ( and also very little for manual variant)

i don't want current FLX model, i don't like CVT gearbox

perhaps the normal one better.. that why i looking for proton 2011 and earlier model..

1.6cc cannot get 22-24k ( and also very little for manual variant)

FL engine is Campro IAFM where as FLX uses the Campro IAFM+. Key difference being the IAFM module and engine tuning, as well as some internal parts.

The gearbox are also different:

FL Auto = Mitsubishi 4AT
FL manual = Aichi Kikai 5MT

FLX Auto = Punch powertrain CVT
FLX manual = Getrag 5MT

FLX also have stiffer springs and thicker front antiroll bar (21mm vs FL's 19mm).

iskazulka
where to read your Fuelly? cannot find in your siggy.

thank you buddy.

your is 1.3 or 1.6?

your average 23.8MPG =
1 litre = 10.1km (-___-")

wow, that bad FC...

i need to do more review and finding before give up on FL variant.

but lousy 4AT topspeed win canggih 6speed CVT   

but i believe Saga BLM is the best build car in P1.

insaf la, is 1333cc...but on paper la, who knows the exact capacity.

you sound like you not happy with your 1.3 blm fl

CVT/FLX is more better thn 4AT/FL... FC better, Power Better, Handling also a bit Better, better protection.

Trust Me....

But FLX ilek the fuel return ~ so ultimately flx+ is better than flx ~ lar .... if nanti org tu complain FC sux like me go turn his flx to NGV car later complain why NGV in FLX so damn FC sux then not good lo ~

hi,newbie here,dont own flx but test driven it for 15 to 20 minutes before. My dad own auto blm 1.3. Me,just plain waja campro n savvy.
Have some foreman sc as friends. When i read the forum,i come across some misunderstanding about L (low gear) in flx. L in flx isnt the same as L in saga auto. L in flx even it means low gear generally,its not really low gear,but low gear ratio.
Low gear ratio means it runs 20 to 30 percent lower than in D mode. For example if in D mode the rpm is 2k,when switch to L,the rev will increase to nearly 2.5k with the same throttle input. Very useful when climbing uphill n overtake.
In D mode also has hill sensing mode feature that will increase the rev around the same figure as in L mode,but it is only for temporary.
But in L mode,it is permanently rev 20 to 30 percent higher than D mode.
So,it is wrongly assume that in L mode the speed is only 25kmh,it actually can go beyond 100kmh but it will affect ur fc.
If u have the opportunity,try to download details of cvt2 from zf which actually used for mini cooper before. But this punch actually an enhance version of cvt2 from zf.
for sat,eventhough it is simulation,it has 6 preset fixed ratio,so it will work as normal at but the feeling is different coz it comes from cvt gearbox,not torque conv gearbox.
So,inconclusion,if u want speed n power in full cvt mode,change to L mode,if want to save fuel n sometimes need power,just stick to D and let the ecu n tcu decide which is suitable for u. Sat a good mode to those are not familiar with full cvt mode,but bear in mind,the fc will tend to be higher since tha ratio is fix.
Dont worry bout auto braking coz this cvt has uphill n downhill sensing mode. Eventhough it is not apparent like in invecs 2 gb as in any other campro engine,it is simply bcoz of cvt behaviour since it will not dramatically change to fix low gear,but gradually drop to lower gear ratio since cvt has infinite number of ratio,so the drop will be seamless or feelingless,but it drop,dun worry.
Hope this info i share from my test drive experience,checking cvt2 manual data sheet from zf n my info by chatting with my friends foreman will benefit flx user.

i think in full cvt mode,it has more power to compare with sat mode cause it is easy to keep the engine at it full torque all the way.
What u need to do is to rev up until 4k rpm n maintain it at that rpm,so engine is running at peak torque all the way n the speed will increase steadily oppose to sat mode,if reaching 4k rpm then when changing to the nwxt gear,rpm will drop,so the engine need to work hard over n over again to reach it peak torque. Need to mind u,regardless any gear in sat mode,the engine torque rev band remain the same,so,it keep climbing to reach torque peak for every gear to keep the momentum.
Why we feel sat more powerful? Well, it is simply becoz we are used to see rpm meter coming up n down,n the engine noise also influence u to think it is powerful. Do a blind test or simply look at speedo meter only,u can see the speed is increasing steadily in full cvt mode,while in sat mode,every gear change,the speedo will halt momentarily(not really obvious but u can see it if really focus on the speedo) for every gear change n speed rising inconsistently.
To get full power,just pedal to metal in cvt mode,the rpm will increase to its peak horse power 5750rpm,n speedo will increase steadily to top speed. If u want to go fastee,just switch to L mode,and after u see the speedo nearly halt at high speed,change to D mode,so that the gear ratio will go higher n can extract a little bit more speed at the top end

so u shud try out in L mode :-). By the way, D mode main function is to give u best balance between power n fc.
The same as D in conventional auto, it will try to shift to the highest gear which is overdrive or 4th gear. Thats why i always put in 3 or off overdrive in my waja when climbing genting hills,easy to extract power coz the only gear change is only 1st,2nd and highest 3rd.
Lazy to do it manually between L, 2 n 3 coz the purpose i buy auto coz just want to relax from shifting.
If not lazy,just use my manual savvy to conquer genting.
Next time u go to genting,try to use L mode,n rev up until 4krpm n try to maintain it.
When i try out a steep hill(short one) on flx on D mode, L mode n sat. L mode give me best outcome eventhough initially feeling a little bit slower,but when doing manually timing the time, it is actually better,maybe coz used to rev counter being up n down n also the engine note give also up n down.
Its also matter of preference. For me, i love full mode cvt,especially L mode coz it feel boosted when u shift from D to L,but if dont like cvt n uncomfortable with it characteristic,just use sat mode.
Nonetheless drive in sat mode also fun coz it feels like normal 6 at but the shifting is smoother without jerkiness except shifting between 1st n 2nd gear,a little bit jerky,but not too bad. The only thing i dont like in sat mode,sometimes it feels 'lazy' n keep searching for the correct gear.
One more thing, try to control the throttle when driving in town. Driving normal auto,amt,manual n cvt, u need a little bit diffrent technique of stepping on the throttle.
For cvt,no need to step to much as in normal auto in town coz u only need to rev not more than 2k rpm since at 2krpm,u already send a signal to the engine n gb that u want it to speed up until 80kmh,so,the engine will push itself to ur demand.
So,just ease on the throttle,let the rpm increase slowly toward desire rpm, if i not mistaken,1.5k or 1.8k rpm is just enough to speed up to 60kmh town driving.
If not,suddently jap on throttle for example 3k rpm,will course the car to lurk forward,n sometimes can feel jerky.
Like driving amt,u need to pedal the throttle like driving manual car in order it to shift even in auto mode. Step on throttle n ease up when want to shift. If driving amt like normal auto,just step on pedal n maintain it,it will not prolong the life of amt gb.
Have fun with ur flx, maybe after u can adapt to cvt characteristic, it will be a happy marriage,hopefully.
Still waiting for p321a 7 speed paddle shifter next year,(if it is true)hopefully it will bring enough smile for boyracer.

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Added on September 30, 2011, 4:41 pmem, just a little bit correction on prtn conv auto,
2 just for 2nd gear only,it will not downshift to 1st gear. So,becareful,if want to take care of auto gb,never start of with 2, start with L n then shift to 2 if u want to play it manually :-). If not,just stick to 3,rev untill redline n shift to d to enter overdrive mode. For my waja,3rd gear can achieve around 160kmh n shift to D mode slowly reaching 200kmh,but never try more than 200kmh coz my wife will cubit me n mrh. Fyi, my waja is slightly mode with pwrzone catless extractor, bosch iri ,r3 cable plug n aerospeed lcp. :-).

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Added on September 30, 2011, 4:46 pmwow, L mode all the way home, hopefully the engine already nicely break-in. Anyway, do tell us the result key :-). Have fun but drive carefully.