http://sportback.2de.ru/12/html/M112100100225200ENG.htm

our country's AMBIENT temperature is constantly over 40 Celsius?

somemore:


G > H > I > J > K > L > M > N
we are on API SN specification already, you think those the API/ACEA/JASO/SAE folks are just sitting around sucking thumb in corner ah?

https://www.linkedin.com/groups/New-viscosi...469.S.201546081
http://www.oilspecifications.org/articles/...osity-grade.php

honda is one of the major pusher for SAE 16, aka 0w16.
stay tuned

do you know that HTHS is also using the same viscosity value as the ones for 40c/100c?
do you also know that viscosity does not determine film strength, or metal wear?

from BITOG, anything above 2.5 HTHS value should be good enough for hard driving/track driving.

http://www.amsoil.com/lit/databulletins/g2880.pdf
https://www.motul.com/system/product_descri....pdf?1349679379

the difference of a xw20 and xw30 are in the DECIMAL values, it's not going to make or break an engine.

furthermore, if your engine is subjected to over 150c constantly, i'd be worry about other things than wear due to lacking of engine oil lubrication

and you think engine oil does not improve since API SG until API SN?

=edit=
http://www.apicj-4.org/2009_ENGINE_OIL_GUIDE.pdf

not the current documentation, but lol API SG

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 13 2014, 12:03 PM

more specifications from ILSAC:
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/ILSAC_GF-...22-09_final.pdf
http://www.gf-5.com/uploads/File/Final-GF5...ent-1-23-08.pdf

Tipu ah, thought you using minyak masak cap helang?

the API tests and certification (if you want to know more, consider referring to their ASTM documentation) are getting stricter and stricter NOT ONLY on environmental/fuel economy concerns.

and even on fuel economy, do you think an engine having high friction (lack of lubrication as per your concern) can still achieve that very purpose?

also, additives are RESTRICTED even further mainly due to environmental concerns, do you think you can simply add additives and get certified? (that's why things like amsoil signature series for extreme/extended OCI, or racing oils like 300v will NEVER get certified ever - too much additives)

and you said it yourself ma, viscosity doesn't determine an engine's protection ma, why not use lighter so the engine can perform better
ps: amsoil ss pdf i linked is mmg same brand/same model with different viscosities for your comparison
feel free to dig up motul's 300v also.

and of course, there's also my UOA lab report which i am linking again:
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=69700867

not the most impressive of wear report, however i've been ascertain by many people including the folks at BSL that the wear is normal for early engine stages (leftovers from running in and what not)

bro nicotine isn't wrong, that's the reading on our car's meter.

the thing is, that temperature reading is placed so close on the engine hood where it's very easy for engine temperature to affect it's readings.

the service manual CLEARLY specified AMBIENT temperature.
and according to google/websites like this:
https://timetric.com/index/temperature-kual...ort-wmkk-metar/

it's NEVER going to be at 40c as you're pointing out.

=edit=
is that from proton or mitsubishi?
i only glanced through our proton manual so i guess i missed it

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 13 2014, 01:27 PM

zoom in the picture sikit, it's exactly the same picture and quote i have linked earlier

no la it's your choice la, if you're comfortable for xw40, by all means go ahead la.
cheaper also.

in fact, i know i wasted on additives (lol that note on the manual really hits home) , and wasted on good EO like amsoil signature series because proton OCI too short lol.

the calcium (detergent/dispersant) and TBN is even higher than brand new/fresh engine oil after 8500km of hard usage and even comparable to brand new HDEO/Diesel engine oils

internet will never forget geh

like gear ratio master cavino ?

hailat then i also wrong saying potong recommends xw40

they don't need so much additives such as VI to maintain oil viscosity stability wut.

you go supermarket like tesco, those full synthetic cheap oil on promotion, tell me what is their viscosity.
you'll find a common pattern of almost everything being xw40

shell also don't have other viscosity for their pureplus in Malaysia, ONLY xw40.
AFAIK USDM/euro shell got xw30 though

aduh you mmg tau i advocate of light viscosity still ask if it's xw30 meh? go look at my UOA lab report again

i bought it for rm45/946ml from zhapalang; boss said was on promotion/clear stock woh, so dunno will remain same price mou

yes got mention. (top corner, what EO i used)

no, from service manual (or potong manual) mentioned 4.3l, however that's assuming they let the engine drip kaw kaw from the oil pan.

4L is typically more than enough.
so 946x4, and maybe 1 more if you think you may need to top up (which i think no need)
i red line the bugger so hard, until the day before i go service, not oil loss or whatsoever.

the UOA report also showed viscosity consistency as if the oil is still new.

giler babi poison nih
i wait until my 300v habis first can ah? i bought in bulk (yes over 1k ringgit rofl) to get cheaper price.

and pennzoil haven't API certified their new UP/pureplus yet (excuse to not use yet )

fc worse, cuz keep red lining

got! can hear awsm engine note

aiyah kena poke bocor again

soft = stock KYB la dei

and changes = borrow from me?

holy f***
i note down first

empire23 have a lot to say against Castrol* for his 4B11T

what kinda oil paper test anyways?

=edit=
oops typo on brand

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Aug 14 2014, 05:10 PM