see why i drain my proton sp3 in just 5k km lol.

good atf, you drain at 20k km you sakit hati cuz still look damn new

new primax seems to smell even worse, i think they substitute with more additives... and probably more earnings (assuming the additives are cheaper, cut cost :rolleys: )

fc/performance wise, on both iswara/inspira not much difference.

Dear Mr. Joe,

It is my pleasure to see that my experience in petrol fumes piqued your interest!
To be honest, i'm not proficient in describing how petrol fumes smell like, because they smell just like petrol fumes; I would say the new Primax is of a stronger smell and that's about it.

If you're interested perhaps you can give it a few whiffs while you're fueling up! I must caution you beforehand that if you're developing a burning sensation within your nostrils and/or developing nausea you should cease all petrol fume smelling activities advance and perhaps seek medical attention. As a disclaimer i cannot bear any responsibilities of any injuries in result of smelling petrol fumes.

From personal experience i have not fueled up at Shell for a very long time as i get cash back rewards from my credit card when i fuel up at Petronas.
As with all Malaysian products, i would believe Petronas Primax has made-in-China smell. As we all know Malaysia actually make decent quality products; however like most Malaysian companies, to make maximum profit it is always best to outsource everything to China and i believe Primax (or our Proton cars) is of no exception hence China smell.

Hope you find my reply satisfying and i bid you to have a very good day ahead!

glad you find my information useful!

maybe can consider motul's fully synthetic because Caltex already raised price by rm3 (36 --> 39)
if you still can get the old 36 pricing by all means continue with that though

mana my grading papers? got star chop mou?

sorry i don't swing that way, so please don't tiok my gugu.

china brand primax reduces FC as per the graph

as r3apers mentioned, since your mileage still low and only first time/2nd time change, the blackness may not be ATF quality issue. for my case however i trash the AT box pretty badly, as if it's a manual box so i supposed my case can be exceptional.
and with that requirement, yes the shifting was really sluggish around the 3-4k km mark. down shifted and need to wait 2-3 seconds (sometimes even more) for the downshift to fully complete
morning up shifts also seem slow as the rpm goes higher than usual before the upshifts complete.

upon draining the ATF is watery, like water instead of oil... (more to that in below reply)

though, at least from my manual box experience where there's obviously a lot of debris, the oil didn't turn completely black (like your picture shown), moreover the part where the oil gets absorbed into the tissue, obviously the debris won't be spreaded across the tissue, yet even those parts were completely black too which imho is a little odd.

again in my case on the new inspira, the oil still at least have it's original yellow/golden ish color though it may be because i drained the oil around 1500-2000 km mileage.
or maybe that's how it works for manual/MT oil, beats me.
the iswara auto had been driven many long years before it was handed down to me so never had such experience.

maybe observe on the 5k km mark if it happens to the caltex, whether it turns black, or the ATF remains red while there's still black debris/sediments when you drain.

generally, that means the VII (viscosity index improvers) additives diminished/broken down.
that is what keeps oil viscosity stable be it in cold or hot operation (eg: in cold, not too thick/form sludge while in hot prevent it from going too watery and losing lubrication/protection)

it's basically the lack of VII and TBN + carbon deposits etc from engine combustion that's what makes engine oil forming sludge, and in AT box case, it will be the metal shaving/debris that helps the sludge forming.

from google:


so all in all what bro zeone did, regardless of ATF used/ATF quality, was a right move as it will prevent sludge forming in the long run

np bro

1) any chance you still got the sample? can try using a tissue to dip into it? it's rather worrisome that the fluid itself is black

2) hence the existence of expensive flushing services, but yes i do agree that it's a waste of good $$$ if you were to keep flushing. thankfully proton sp3 is cheap (can say cheapest among atf already unless you look into non reputable brands)

3) imho, the caltex should last, so maybe only need inspection in the 5 or 10k km, shouldn't have to drain. just use the dip stick, and have a tissue wipe over it (or toilet paper if you're cheapskate like me lol) and observe if the oil is spreading smoothly/evenly.
degraded oil will either not spread (when cold) or spread too fast as if it's water when it is hot (eg: just after a drive with engine at optimal temperature)

but the ATF is scheduled to service on 20k km, bro zerone drained his at 5k km.

granted, it could be as bro r3apers said, it's probably due to his at box being relatively new, so still contain a lot of metal shaving/debri from run in etc.

actually IINM ya, proton recommended 40k km, right?
https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?act=Atta...post&id=2084193
40k km, 24 months

you try find your service booklet and confirm this lol
no surprise on gearbox failure ya if the oil comes out pitch black at 5k km?

well, while we should trust proton technician/engineers, certain very questionable stuff like pouring ATF in CVT boxes, or using xw50 synthium in modern cars (eg: 4b1x mivec engines specified xw20 viscosity EO), and specifying 40k km on the older AT boxes where the sp3 will never last that long and then we wonder why people claim proton AT boxes break down often

ya can't blame the consumers either since most people just follow their sc/tech/engineers which is what they should

thanks for the info bro
it's sad that most car manufacturers do not practice this for the transmission and only do so for the engine oil for first 1k km.
maybe they are that confident on their transmission lube/filter? (in proton's case, maybe overconfident)

but yea the bolded part on machinery experience is what i generally apply to my cars
just want to play a small little part in the environment la, however small it may be.
i've done my fair share of pollution with the cat-less iswara (car didn't come with one) so giving back a bit lo

well the old saga 3AT have huge magnets at the bottom of the atf oil sump. (notice that from underneath the car you can see protruding rounded shapes)

time to time when you're replacing the filter, you do have to clean the magnets as there's "hairy" ( ) metal shavings stuck on them. so it does prove that they do indeed work
i'll try to take a picture the next time i perform my filter change (which is damn long mileage away lol)

well maybe because it doesn't have a filter everything just gets recirculated back hence the black ATF?

now here's the dilemma:
follow everything proton, if it dies within 3 years, yay free at box (assuming you can claim at box replacement )
or maintain damn good, and the box dies after warranty, self pay.

i didn't meet n3w right? lol

eh got a, maybe i forgotten you guys on the other table cuz barely interacted

inspaliah made in china

don't blame you, my car hiding at the kedai runcit compound lol, free from trees and away from the main road

lhwj sports car lagi park far far away weih