great sharing bro

generally i agree on most of the point you're saying. i consider myself an avid "FC improver" also.

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Jun 26 2015, 11:27 AM

Well, those are just basic stuff that we put together Besides, my car is already insanely fuel saving, can't possibly be any saver than what I have now

The rolling downhill in-clutch you'll get caught by the OBD2 reading. OBD2 has clearly shown you the engine is not consuming any petrol, but the amount of power loss between transmission will take away your speed much. So in short your velocity will drop very much in-clutch. With 1km rolling in-clutch of no fuel consumption, but needed acceleration after 1km of free roll; comparing with 1km rolling de-clutched with minimal fuel consumption, but vehicle speed increased by 20% after the roll, and continue to roll another 500m with minimal fuel consumption before vehicle speed drop. Which 1 would you rather be? Acceleration? Or minimal fuel consumption over a longer period? I'm not defending or trying to be hero. I leave this as healthy discussion if you like. Don't get me wrong, I'm pretty damn sure free rolling by de-clutched is extremely dangerous, as it even affect the vehicle controlability at some point.

As far as I know, only the 1st batch of SVs got some using old AchiPokai gebox. Don't be too happy with Getrag geboc also, as the sparepart is awfully expansive compare to the old school AchiPokai, which it share parts with most Nissan cars.

I know its not related with Saga issues. but I'm sharing for FC lover car owner.

For Honda cars, they put (option actually) a Fully Synthetic 0W-20. I find it have improve FC for long distance highway drive.

When driving highway mode, mostly 90-100km/h is the rule for great FC. Some more, use the Cruise Control as much as can which can control your right foot on the pedal from press in unnecessary situation.

For refueling using CC, make sure used AMEX card + any fuel brand card for points. I always refuel on weekend to comply the 5% cash rebates for amex. I can get Cash by refuel.

Agreed on most of your point of view. 1 thing need to highlight, cruise control should only be use on absolutely flat road. Try that on karak highway, you'll probably end up sucking more fuel then using your feet! Reason being, cruise control uses VACUUM and SPEED to control fuel injection rate. On an uphill slope, when speed started to drop, vacuum started to tighten, your cruise control system will pump in more fuel to compensate on the vacuum drop to match your preset speed. Put up your OBD reader and set he cruise control. You'll notice what blows your mind on an uphill

I'm serious. No troll intended. More healthy FC talk are welcome. In there, no debate. Only friendly discussion I love to hug tree, but I can't stand driving an electric car that kind acceleration. It's not that it's not fast. I believe when I go AWANA drive a golf cart even faster than I drive my Plotong on the street Its just that the electric motor feeling I doesn't really like it. Otherwise I would have save money for a Tesla

i wonder if Malaysia will ever adopt honda's 0w16 EO's

can buy tesla in Malaysia ke? somemore so expensive even if you want/can AP it in lol

technically - no
practically - this is boleh land

400hp++ with 0 fuel consumption, if you can pay the premium, why not eh?

if change gearbox with longer final drive?

Never heard. Changing gearbox heardla, but if change different model, it do effect ECU etc

You can change to whatever gearbox. What if you get a gearbox:

Long final drive, but short ratio = Extremely good town driving fuel consumption. Car become very torquey and revvy. You lose top speed
Long final drive & long ratio = Moderately good fuel consumption on CERTAIN range of gear(especially during high speed cruising), depending on your engine output. But in town driving, you'll be stuck with 1st & 2nd gear with limited torque. Fuel consumption in town driving, I only got 1 word to describe it = DEVASTATING.
Short final drive & short ratio = Usually engine output is limited. K-Car uses this kinda setup to counter it's small capacity engine output. Low fuel consumption and fast pickup. Top speed 120kph
Short final drive, but long ratio = This is an ultra hi-rev engine setup. Old F1 NA engine? Superbike engine for example? Reason for having this setup is because engine capacity is limited in F1/Superbike, hence the engine can only generate limited torque. It needs a short DRIVE to keep the car torque output lively, meanwhile it takes the long ratio to gain speed when the engine revs up to 10000rpm and above.

So, ask yourself, how will longer final drive benefit? My title said, how to improve FC on the stock BLM/FL AchiPokai gebox. Your engine is always the KEY to fuel consumption. Regardless how many speed gearbox I give you, if your engine leak vacuum, you're not going to save any fuel then when the engine is running on tip top condition. For every engine, there's only 1 sweetspot that will save it's petrol consumption. The optimal output for my car is at 130kph 4th gear 5200rpm @ 81whp, 78FtLb.



Does not mean that's the best FC, but for 130kph, that's the best output my car can provide. To get best FC, my car need to stay somewhere above 2750rpm and below 3000rpm because that's where my horse power curve meet with my torque curve. Reading as 68FtLb/38whp.



So, if translate it into SPEED, I can only travel on 5th gear between 2750 ~ 3000rpm. Which means I need to stay below 100kph all time and or above 80kph. Now, I have my figure to prove my gearbox and engine optimal output range. So to tell you, I can't answer you how will your FC effect if you change gearbox. Good luck.

ok la
stick back to aichi kikai
optimum fuel consumption should be as stated in our manual book. 90kmh@3000rpm.

ok la
stick back to aichi kikai
optimum fuel consumption should be as stated in our manual book. 90kmh@3000rpm.
so flx mt can have better speed 100kmh*3000rpm

This post has been edited by sg999: Dec 25 2015, 09:20 PM

Theoretically yes. In actual event, no I don't think so. The engine output range is still stuck there. Clearly, the mitshi gebox has a longer ratio, but it's 3rd gear is totally out of sync compare to your AchiPokai gebox. Hence if you put an stock BLM with a stock FLX side by side for a spring, 1~2 & 3rd gear clearly the BLM/FL will tapau FLX due to it's benefit of short ratio. On the other hand, due to longer ratio on FLX, hitting the same 3000rpm at 100kph will result in more fuel due to engine takes more LOAD to produce same speed.

BUT, if you die die wanna compare and give yourself a reason to change gebox, here's the bestest reason you can ever adopt. We all know Kampro most efficient range is 90kph. If driving a BLM/FL at 110kph, that will be 3600rpm whilst taking much fuel to generate such power/torque to move the car. However, on an FLX gebox, 3200rpm on 110kph will consume much less fuel then BLM/FL gebox.

The comparison chart can be listed for same 5th gear for both BLM/FL and FLX gebox on a similar kampro engine

-Below 90kph on 5th gear, anytime BLM/FL consume less fuel then FLX gearbox due to lesser load on a short ratio gearbox
-At 90kph on 5th gear, both BLM/FL and FLX gebox will yield more or less the same because that's where the engine load the best output due to 1.3litre capacity
-Above 90kph on 5th gear, BLM/FL gearbox fall out of fuel efficiency range. Whereas FLX gearbox is still within efficiency range.

And, if that 10kph difference between 90kph 3000rpm on BLM/FL gebox compare with 100kph 3000rpm makes a lot difference to you, yes please proceed with gebox change. However, if your sole concern is saving petrol cost... Seriously I think you need atleast 12~15 years to make up that fuel consumption difference to pay for the bloody FLX gebox.

p/s: I'd rather recommend on Wajunk Kampro / Gentut / Persona gebox rather then FLX. Seriously those Getrag gebox and parts are too expansive and not worthy.

Thanks for your clear explanation.