When you say the clutch pedal is hard to press, it could be the clutch cover weaken or clutch bearing is jammed. Either way, your full set of clutch need to be replaced.

Squeeking sound when turning steering wheel could be 3 things

1) Clock spring in the steering column, to disengage turn signal.


2) Could be clutch cable dropped out from mounting point, lay on to of your steering coupling. Hence everytime steering action, the rod/coupling was grinding with your clutch cable. In this event, you shall experience kick back sensation on the clutch pedal when you turn your steering wheel.

3) Power steering hydraulic fluid is dirty/low level.

First of all, you'll need to identify where is the leak by yourself.

1) Get a stack of old newspaper
2) Tape them up to form a huge piece of floor plan. Make sure the size equal to engine bay less front wheels
3) Laid the piece of "plan" on your parking lot, secure with heavy stones/bricks at all 4 corners
4) Parked the car on top of the "plan" and leave it over night
5) Wake up with open bonnet, use torch light to shine into your engine bay and look into the "plan" see where the dripping spot is, and directly you can see where the leakage are
* I would be a plus point if you buy mahjong paper in white to be your "plan" for easier identification. But hey, a crap car deserved crap diagnostic

Set those aside, here's a general idea on regular leakage are for D4F engine.

a) Crankshaft bearing oil seal
b) Camshaft bearing oil seal (Same as a, wait for timing belt change)
c) Oil sump (need to remove entire oil sump for the replacement, suggest wait until next oil change)
d) Oil drain nut seal (ownself use gasket paper cut 1 piece and replace it during next oil change)
e) Flywheel oil seal (wait for clutch replacement)
f) Rocker cover breather valve clogged. Oil get sucked out from the other side of the purge valve and entered into intake hose. Extensive oil sip into combustion chamber, spoil the sparkplug seal(oil doesn't get along with rubber), and leak through sparkplug.
g) Rocker cover breather hose cracked/ruptured, become vacuum leak. Brake pedal become harden, lack of power in cruising speed(no affect when full throttle).

As for your serious power loss, I'd like to try your car by myself before further comment. If you can record a video on your dashboard instrument(both RPM and SPEED need to be on the same screen) while driving, it'll be easier for me to assess what could be the problem. If not too much hassle, come to SS2/67 KFC look for a very bad conditioned red Shawie, then stand infront of ShabuShabu and shout SATU MELEISIA, HIDUP SAWI x 6 times very loudly, then I'll popped out Usually it worked in the morning during working days, better chance on Monday and Tuesday. Weekend I no work, so definitely won't be there.

Am considering seriously. Regardless, if anyone offer you, please sell. I may drag you long² until sun comes out from the west(mainly not enough extra budget for the time being)

It could be your hydraulic pump started to malfunction according to your description. If clutch cable fall out of place, the sound wouldn't go away regardless, until you fix them back. Try to get the accessories belt(layman term known as fan belt) checked, see whether it's running efficiently. Meanwhile, check also if there's any power steering oil leak. Do not doubt, anything can happen.

Bore a hole? Not really, see who work on your car nia. Got my clutch set replaced under RM500 include labor.

http://www.mudah.my/Savvy+Renault+Kangoo+c...0957.htm?last=1

Labor about RM200 due to labor intensive. Take note, there's a maroon color plastic umbrella sleeve. Usually most magician will just throw that thing away said not needed. That is 1 crucial part of the clutch kit needed to assembled between the clutch fork & clutch bearing. Without that sleeve, grease will dry off and bearing will jam easily. More significant affect will be clutch cable snapped regularly due to heavy lifting, clutch cover weaken prematurely.

Gotten mine done few weeks ago. Improvise with Perdana and Wira fuel hose, dented RM50 in total.

When I say cruising, means hard to maintain same speed. When holding the gas pedal at certain angle, but vehicle speed keep dropping. It doesn't affect acceleration, car will still be powerful as usual, just will not maintain speed.

The 1 I always go to is in Dengkil. If you're OK, then I'll refer you there. Otherwise, I suggest Renautech in Subang USJ. Renautech is the most expansive among the cheap workshop, but they certainly know what they're doing. As I told you, clutch work is labor intensive, so expect to bring around RM800(may be less) in total bill for the clutch replacement alone. That however, still cheaper than outside workshop, which usually when they seen a Shawie drive in, straightaway they prepare parang getting ready to slaughter you. Initially when I purchased the car, the clutch work sent for outside normal workshop, they charged RM900 Which again, many excuse say sparepart hard to find lar, Renault original clutch kit expansive lar, need special tool to work on lar, need to remove engine lar etc etc.

Other than workmanship and reasonable price, Renautech is 1 of the very reputable Euro cars repairer. Such credibility not easy to earn unless they really know their stuff well enough.

Refer to kennywee92 post.

See you tomorrow morning. I'll be in the office around 7am+

Just to reply you I've seen your post, but I do not know any specialist around that area.

Normally any other Plotong cars, expect to be around RM400 include labor and full gas to be filled up. I'm not sure about Shawie, but shouldn't run far.

Drift too much ady Last time u told us you drove your Shawie lika bawse

Could be many things bro. But the obvious 1 should be drive shaft bearing kong. Turning time very loud isit? Like clurk clurk clurk clurk clurk. The faster you go the louder it gets izit?

You did not mentioned earlier as your 1st question was directly looking for Shawie specialist. If you made a comparison, budget, model, year make.

2005 Savvy MT 1.2, market value 5k
1998 Wira A/B MT 1.3, market value 5k
2001 Iswara MT 1.3, market value 5k

For a 1st car, I'd recommend you to take the Ishwaga rather than Wigra(Shawie is totoli outta piktar, not to mentioned the amount jiu gonna spend on repair & mentenans). Some may ask why not a MyBi, the truth is you can't get any MyBi below 15k YET. Not if you can afford the amount to spent on car, yes MyBi will be the best choice. Shawie is just not an average joe's car regardless.

Clocked 1'00 in Elite Speedway not allowed to call selow regardless

Budget of 10k, you can fetch 2007 LMST for around 8k. Can spend the rest of the money to do up the car, may be plonk satellite GPS tracking system. Wajunk 2001 still takes about 12k. Maintenance wise, LMST is so much more wallet friendly than Wajunk.

And if you're using BiBa as comparison, mana boley compare 3 piston saja, win liao lor. Budget also, jiao jiao beza liao lor. BiBa 2008 still standing at about 15k tu.

Lost your contact since phone dead in July. Pls PM me your number again, I come over check your car in the morning 1 of these days. Almost every morning pass by your house outside that traffic light liao, due to skip LDP jam. Don't worry, diagnostic is free. No part replacement is also free. Even if after diagnose found out klac plobrem, I can't be possibly dismantle your kar at the paking lot rite That day change kabel ady so many aunty kam ask me whether ayam pomen inklud ur dad =_=

Lemon? Seriously, Shawie itself is a lemon in disguised. Just that during purchase whether you picked a less sour 1

2 weeks ago was in Kuantan, saw many Shawie with ECR stickers on the rear hatch running around Feeling guding

The kabel is NEW, as you seen from original Plotong packaging So fast koyaked? So now? Changed ady? Got keep the old kabel?

It's supposed to be LYN members only for that FB group, but ended up gone haywire. People inviting friends everywhere, and also others that does public enquiry joined the group. Can't stop it anyways, theres 3 admins before I resigned, so there you have it. May be less 1 admin will make it more harmony?

Glad that be helped for you. Fuel pump aint cheap yo, it's 250 if not mistaken. That not include labor and other charges.

Not sure. Need to check GaGa club. I won't be joining as home minister on leave.

Off the current topic, yesterday met wt 1 otai in PD, 1st batch Shawie AMT M-Line trim belak kaler. Everything original. Refering to him, Shawie is an ultra low mentenans monster. 9 years never suffer major repair except for the rear wheel bearing(did not go back for recall due to warranty void as he did his own service). Here's some contribution for reference.

Engine oil : ELF yellow bottle 20w50 mineral, OCI 10000km or 1/2 year whichever comes 1st. Renault ori oil filter for every oil change.

Gear oil: ELF Renomatic. OCI 20000km or 1 year whichever comes 1st. Include drain/flush related robotic arms/accumulator pump. Fuel filter will be replaced at the same time to prevent fuel clogged that killing the fuel pump.

Radiator: Coolant replacement each year with premixture coolant -5'c. Detail procedure should be engine off, drain all existing fluid via thermostat bleed valve. Stuff a running tap water on the reservoir tank, until running water @ bleed valve start to clear & able to see tap water bleeding. Start engine & continue let water running/bleeding for several minutes. Wait for reservoir tank to drained to a lower level, then start filling premixed coolant. Gradually add on as bleed valve will bleed slower than intake, until see the bleed valve bleeding premixed coolant. Shut the bleed valve. By the time bleed valve being closed, reservoir tank should be just nice at MAX level instead of overflowing. Done.

Footwork: Regular greasing on all wheel bearings. Open brake hub to clean brake dust every 2 months. Its a compulsory action after Genting downhill each time, to prevent brake dust stuck in brake cylinder. Tyre rotation on every wheel alignment 1/2 year basis or kena pod hole.

Others: air filter will be replaced according to color of the surface. Own justification. As soon as dark enough, he will replaced it. Hex star screws ady changed to regular philips for easier mentanens. Aircond wise, never service before except every month take out the receiver dryer to clean dust. Once a week turned off the recycle air button with aircond off, to receive outside air to dry off the entire cooling coil, provided weather is hot & dry. Never do this during rainny days/night time/early morning due to heavy humid densed air.

Drive: always switch to manual during traffic jam when he's in KL. Practice what we've learned in JPJ exam, let the car infront moved away atleast 2 cars distance before engage gear to move forward. Do not stick to 1st gear & use brake to hold the car, leave it Neutral when car is not moving. This will reduce strain to accumulator pump. If kena cut Q, let them be by all means. Traffic jam aint going to go far anyways, most important is go easy on pocket. When cruising, always use auto mode. Go easy on gas pedal whenever change gear/upshift time. Prevent clutch cover/clutch plate being strained from high power transition.

Timing belt: Renault original belting & tensioner bearing every 2 years or 100000km whichever comes first. No point saving the bearing since gonna open belt cover for belt replacement.

The result is, 0 breakdown on AMT even its 9 years old @ 200000km! Engine very light & easy to drive. No jerking. I've never driven a new Shawie AMT before, but kinda get the bad perception from bad comment world wide, & also few bad experiences test driving used Shawie before decided to go for MT. That car, changed my entire perception for Shawie AMT. Other than that, reservoir tank no rust, like new! I shall pratice a few tip from this person & my Shawie shall be long live. I strongly suggest fellow AMT owner to take these advise as well. If there's an opportunity for me to get an AMT, I'd buy his car & continue using his method to maintain the car for a very long time.

Long live Shawie! Hidup Shawie! 1 meleisia Shawie!

But jiu dun use ELF yellow bottle 20W50, which probably cost only 1/5 of the engine oil you're using now