FLX spring, RM49.50/pc in Plotong. Esoba, got alot geh, compatible with younger brother BLM/FLX
davidke20, do you have any experience using the flx spring? the flx spring is going to be 50~80% stiffer that the standard savvy spring. I'm using a BLM rear spring only and it has 11mm wire diameter compared to 10mm and sits about 1cm higher
davidke20, do you have any experience using the flx spring? the flx spring is going to be 50~80% stiffer that the standard savvy spring. I'm using a BLM rear spring only and it has 11mm wire diameter compared to 10mm and sits about 1cm higher
My GaGa BLM is using the FLX spling, hence the BLM spling goes into my Shawie. Frankly, I think I rike the softer spling coz ayam not so marj into lowering/harsh ride person. Handling wise, I have 3MAX Anti Roll Bar at the back from Mahihi, 16mm is sufficient for my kind of appetite. Front currently running on ATR K-Sport from nestum, rear running on HiFly HF201, FC is freaking awesome running on average 15km/litre. Dry grip is like heaven! Cut konar like slice a water melon. However, trade off is wet grip rike shiete. Can't drive more than 80kph on rainny days, or the car will GLIDE
Basically the car planted on the ground, very little bodyroll. Both rear wheels remain all time upright, hence tyre to surface contact improved a lot. Plobrem is, as and when tyre traction all used up, the car will spiral into irrecoverable spin. Had that twice while testing my cornering limit. No more testing
My GaGa BLM is using the FLX spling, hence the BLM spling goes into my Shawie. Frankly, I think I rike the softer spling coz ayam not so marj into lowering/harsh ride person. Handling wise, I have 3MAX Anti Roll Bar at the back from Mahihi, 16mm is sufficient for my kind of appetite. Front currently running on ATR K-Sport from nestum, rear running on HiFly HF201, FC is freaking awesome running on average 15km/litre. Dry grip is like heaven! Cut konar like slice a water melon. However, trade off is wet grip rike shiete. Can't drive more than 80kph on rainny days, or the car will GLIDE
Basically the car planted on the ground, very little bodyroll. Both rear wheels remain all time upright, hence tyre to surface contact improved a lot. Plobrem is, as and when tyre traction all used up, the car will spiral into irrecoverable spin. Had that twice while testing my cornering limit. No more testing
i also have a set of atr k-sports but only run during track/special events. i refuse to run anti roll bars because it's too twitchy for me in the rainy weather. that's just a personal preference and nothing against 3max or anti roll bars cause I have had good experiences with 3max and anti roll bars in the past.
i'll have to tear my brake system apart again to troubleshoot due to spongy and poor brake feel again. i think it's the master cylinder or proportioning valve acting up.
i also have a set of atr k-sports but only run during track/special events. i refuse to run anti roll bars because it's too twitchy for me in the rainy weather. that's just a personal preference and nothing against 3max or anti roll bars cause I have had good experiences with 3max and anti roll bars in the past.
i'll have to tear my brake system apart again to troubleshoot due to spongy and poor brake feel again. i think it's the master cylinder or proportioning valve acting up.
Twitchy at the back is because of the way we drive I'd say. I know it because every car before I upgrade from stock or install anti roll bar will have no trouble and quite safe, until the post upgrade event, I tend to spun atleast once each car cause I don't know my limit until I hit the limit Sometimes I had it twice After I stopped testing for limit, no more twitching anymore But it's ok, as you said it's personal preference. So, what's your preference regarding the springs and abs set? I have not plan for anything other than stock or swaps from other made/model. For such a light weight car, I really don't want to have more bump steer/roll steer, considering the ATR K Sport is much thinner tyres and running on soft springs.
My next move, probably gonna inject 75W90 LSD oil into the front abs May not consider to change spring at all though, considering my daily ride has many uneven terrain
Twitchy at the back is because of the way we drive I'd say. I know it because every car before I upgrade from stock or install anti roll bar will have no trouble and quite safe, until the post upgrade event, I tend to spun atleast once each car cause I don't know my limit until I hit the limit Sometimes I had it twice After I stopped testing for limit, no more twitching anymore But it's ok, as you said it's personal preference. So, what's your preference regarding the springs and abs set? I have not plan for anything other than stock or swaps from other made/model. For such a light weight car, I really don't want to have more bump steer/roll steer, considering the ATR K Sport is much thinner tyres and running on soft springs.
My next move, probably gonna inject 75W90 LSD oil into the front abs May not consider to change spring at all though, considering my daily ride has many uneven terrain
agreed with you on everything. i'm holding back from anything major right now as the car is my daily driver today. i'm planning to convert the car to a rally car cause i work in construction line and often travel to rural areas.
hotbits has always been in my mindset as it's affordable and proves itself to be one of the better valving response. but of course, we'll probably either need to work really close with their r&d or test a few setups before settling down as for rough road terrains, driver's confidence is everything.
agreed with you on everything. i'm holding back from anything major right now as the car is my daily driver today. i'm planning to convert the car to a rally car cause i work in construction line and often travel to rural areas.
the car is transformers liao becum ur driver? inb4 pls ignore me
Im a newbie in buying car and so i came across savvy that realli within my budget. Using it for city drive and a little long distance drive. Davidke20, u mention if wanna get savvy get the facelift. So if i get a 2nd hand 2008 MT, what are the things I should prepare for touch up or look into? What to put aside for maintainace? Tq in advance for your feedback.
Im a newbie in buying car and so i came across savvy that realli within my budget. Using it for city drive and a little long distance drive. Davidke20, u mention if wanna get savvy get the facelift. So if i get a 2nd hand 2008 MT, what are the things I should prepare for touch up or look into? What to put aside for maintainace? Tq in advance for your feedback.
maybe this can help. read the highlighted quotes.
QUOTE(davidke20 @ Oct 19 2012, 02:12 PM)
Eqmal,
Don't bad mouth Iswaga its a good car. The weight on that car powered by the 4G13 made power to weight ratio 1t:100hp. FC was haibrid like. 0-100 below 10sec. My Pale Monster served her previous owner for 8 years, then served me another 8 years. Despite I punished her with many open track one make race/gymkhana, the only thing she got upset was bushing and tires, which was wear & tear items. Powah windoe does not always rosak, people always rosak their powah windoe bcoz they very smart go & use expansib silicone. Rubber got soften by silicone then jammed the cermin, as a result motor overheat ma dai faster lo. Korek way is use tayar shine dilute with water to lubricate the windoe rubber. The car was easy to menten. Car was sold to Unker Choy under valued, atleast in the hope of Unker Choy to take good care of her in the future. Meanwhile, I still menten another unit of LMST, somewhere around the parking area. Love ole gaga
Added on October 19, 2012, 1:41 pmAnd this is for 2ndhenkar buyer:
I just had a conversation with my fren, he was asking to buy a dugong. Since he insist, I suggest for a 2nd hand dugong for 40k, but he said 2nd hand car always give problem,need to repair this repair that dowan! I said fine, u buy a new dugong, whatcha gonna do with the Gancil? He wanted to sell it 2nd hand. I offer RM3k, he said too low. Then start telling me how good his car is, regular service lar, no problem at all lar, aircon cold lar, this lar that lar bla bla bla. I shoot him back, u say 2nd hand car sure got problem 1 ma. U say need to repair this repair that ma.
Buying a 2nd hand car is a risk. You know, I know, everybody knows. Don't expect to buy it and drive like its fresh out from the factory. Some crusial thing u should change immediately before u start whacking the car, such as:
Cabin filter/Air filter(if its dirty) Engine oil Gear oil Brake fluid Tangki flush Power steering fluid Timing belt/acc belt
Check alignment, swap tires if need be. Change tire if expired. Unless previous owner supply with full maintenance record with receipts, otherwise those are time bombs.
I don't buy new car simply because its way too expansive and depreciate faster than I can earn. I know cars & half the time I'm fixing my cars, so buying 2nd hand car make sense to me. I'm not expecting you to follow, just sharing my point of view.