I've used that n-years ago, 90/80 front IINM. Could be 90/70, not sure.
They don't last long, the tyre body swell and goes out of balance in straight line.

Taken from 2008 YZF-R15 users' manual, 20W-40 is recommended.
Taken from 2011 YZF-R15 service manual, for hot climate, 20W-40 and 20W-50 appears to be suitable. 10W-50 is the close alternative, but I would presume warm up required.

Are_keemWith injection engines, the fuel metering is more accurate compared to carburetor. If what shyan said is true, perhaps this makes the piston ring temperature more prone to overheating.

Any 15W-50 or 15W-60 in the market?
In India, it seems Motul supplies to Yamaha EO. So, what they kinda get is Motul Factory line 15W-50.

I use the Hi Perf 4T on my 2 stroke, left 1/3 bottle..
Forgot how much, I think around RM45.

Retail price now scary:
Hi Perf 10W-50 FS - RM55
Hi Perf 10W-40 SS - RM38

Check page 1, I've compiled a list of EO of high viscosity xW-50 and xW-60.
List of EO suitable for Y15ZR and FZ150i v2


This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 5 2016, 02:14 PM

I am guessing, with the given wide range of temperature-viscosity, it helps to lubricate different parts of the bike as they are operating at different temp.

For the cooler area, the oil will be pass through very fast since it has low viscosity.
For the hotter area, the oil will stay longer, and requires more work to move or remove them. This can prevent oil starvation while waiting for fresh oil to arrive at the next pump cycle (assuming the oil is pumped at regular intervals, and not continuous).

Welcome. Can you tell, what is the oil recommended from the user manual?

Suggest you insist for Yamalube 10W-50.

I'm using this one too, 10W-30...

This is Diasil, no need to worry about glazing just go ahead with FS.

4SP is FS - JASO MA2.
4SX is SS - JASO MA.

How much do they cost?
As for Yamalube, I think Malaysian one are supplied by Petronas, just different color.


There is a list of suitable EO on page one, download them and hafal.

If you can find, MOS fully synthetic race (also listed on page 1) looks good too.
Made in Malaysia FS oil using Type IV oil stock. I'm looking for it for next change... haha...

There are many good oil brands out there, just make sure getting the best you can afford.
Starting with fully synthetic base (type IV or V), the right grade (10W-50 for example) then API/JASO grade (MA2).

Usually, the first number indicates film or shear strength (bigger the better for us in tropical climate, small number good in really cold climates for sufficient pumpability during cold start); second number indicates heat stability (bigger the better).

Which is why, IMO, 15W-40 is the ideal EO for Malaysia - good protection and sufficient heat stability.
10W-40 is lower spec in engine protection, but similar high heat resistance.

Generally, xW-50 oil is more expensive than xW-40.

So, once you pour in good expensive oil, ride it to the max like 5000km and see if the feeling stays the same.
Don't just pour away every 1000km... waste money only...

I use on 2 stroke, so act as gearbox oil only.
Factory recommended 10W-30, about 3000~5000km.

1. Try to avoid mineral or semi-synthetics, for they could leave behind unwanted residue during oil change, and shorten the life of the new oil that you pour in. Things like acid, sludge etc.
- Castrol Power 1 and Power 1 Racing, unfortunately for us, doesn't come in FS.

2 . I don't know, but my best guess would be the true cost of those paper filters can be very low.
- Cause of concern would be, would it get too low for them to have less surface area... meaning using less material.
- Oil filter is less important if they are changed regularly like every 5000km, since they are recommended for 10000km. Once they are clogged up or full, the pressure check bypass valve will let oil go around it, instead of causing starvation.

5100 have 10W-40 also.

You mean, at the same speed, 4th gear can accelerate faster than 3rd gear?

I see.

This one will explain why use high viscosity oil.
Motor oils...

you ada mod headlight kah?

Ok, check wiring. Agak2 bateri tu tak kena cas.
Cuma sayang bateri tukar sia-sia.

deiningOk. Thanks for update.

Not sure...

thianzshyan90'sWhy so cheap?
FZ block RM230
LC block RM230

This post has been edited by alexei: Jan 20 2016, 09:38 AM

Sorry to hear about that damage... you should insist them to fix on the spot. Now, they need to bear the damages.
If you had asked earlier, one thing about Corsa tyres, physically they are about 1 size bigger than common brands... I first saw Corsa when they introduced R46, and I thought it was a 110/80... surprised to see it's only 90/80.

For front tyre, in Indonesia, this tyre is RM60 after conversion. You paid total RM93.50.
The rear tyre retail price around RM108. In Indonesia, that tyre is RM70 after conversion. You paid RM113.50.
They untung about RM70 from you, minus the shipping from Indonesia, maybe around RM60...

Overall, I think a bit expensive. Machine installation should be free.