try vroom vroom 1 round let me know ....

You having clutch slippage?

alittle bit whn aggressive style start pickup ... just make sure EO temperature is warm be4 moving .... slip feeling sudah tiada ...

yesterday..not heavy rain..but road basah & licin..

break then tergolek..ekzos scratch already...

today break emergency..coz got sohai ppl driving..no signal..just change lane..almost tergolek also.nasib boleh kawal..

so my question is..is really2 LC tyre very licin???

i think its time to change tyre la..whats best??

my lc is 1 week old

apa brand tyre oh ? pakai battlax pun kenot 100% brake on time la ... road basah & licin

duro if tak salah..

Mr.CoMoTsad to hear.
when you fall the first time, did the tyre kena the road stripes? please avoid road stripes when wet, even when you're going straight.

the second incident, during an emergency braking on a straight line, how is it possible that you can tergolek? is it becoz the front tyre slipped? or the rear tyre?

what kind of bike did u use to ride? maybe you're not used to the new brakes on LC?

yeah,. i think in road stripes(if not wrong la..i hit rear brake..then front..then cant control already.. ..suddeny got ppl lintas..haiz..

second is rear.i just push the rear brake..then motor goyang2 already....yeah..just got a license..

first ride on LC summore..

i think my brake skill is 1/10...

bro alexei

my experiment on MIKUNI BS25.
after day and day trying to get optimum setting for this carburetor, i have found that 3 turns of pilot screw is the best setting for acceleration also cold start.

i have tried 2 1/2, 2 3/4 and 2 5/8 turns out.

throttle response is better than stock setting written on service manual which is 2 and 3/4 turns out.

since the pilot screw for mikuni bs25 is controlling both air and fuel, not controlling the air or fuel only. i think 3 turns out is the optimum setting for it.

my opinion, if anybody wants to get better result on top speed, maybe they need to consider rejetting the carburetor since pilot screw only affecting idle and first step of acceleration. which is not in my mind at the moment. because i think that rejetting the carb only is not an economical wise choice. we need to consider changing the piston and block size, bigger valves, harden valve springs, high lift or high duration camshaft, bigger intake manifold, bigger exhaust, high output ignition coil, sprockets ratio and so on to make them balanced each others since they are related to each others.

to those who wants to make a light modifications for better performance than factory setting to their yamaha lc v2, my suggestion is :-

1. resetting your stock pilot screw setting on your carburetor
2. play around which your sprocket ratio ( this setting is vary from people to people since our body weight is different )
3. change to bigger size exhaust, but not too big. maximum size is +6mm than stock exhaust. 28mm is maximum.
4. change to lighter sprocket and drive chain.
5. change to smaller tyre size.

if you ride less than 100kmh daily, better use 10w 40 semi synthetic. more than 100kmh daily, better use 15w 50.

bro alexei, i once read about using fully synthetic for wet clutch systems is a bad thing to do. could you please clarify this to me ? because now i'm using petronas synthium moto 10w 50 fully sintetik. but sometimes i use belray 15w 50 semi sintetik with additional of STP oil treatment.

thanks



This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 12:03 AM

I use hdeo

Avoid fully if full throttle everyday

- quoted by piju below -

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 4 2014, 01:58 PM

bro alexei,
for my personal opinion, moped is not designed to be ride for a long and hard journey. moped is designed to be use for short distance. if we use our moped for a long journey daily, i think we need to use higher viscosity oil or higher grade rather than using what is written on service manual. as long as the oil is for bike, not for car or truck.

i once go to hong leong yamaha at sungai buloh near my work place. i asked the mechanic, what is the best oil for yamaha 135 lc ? he said depends on your purposes. what he mean is, if we ride long and far journey daily, better use fully syntethic and higher viscosity.

i am absolutely not going to use any of car oil treatment on my motocycle. i only use STP which is for motocycle. dont get confuse with my earlier post. oil treatment for motocycle has only low value of zinc dialyldithiophosphate to prevent wear on your engine. car oil treatment has higher value which is not good for motocycle since higher value of it can increase wear. like i already said, the keyword is balance. a more of something can be good but the too much of something doesnt mean good.

about the tyre, i dont recommend any of SOTONG tyre. front 80/90, rear 90/80 is already good for normal usage. what i think the best is, front 80/90 and rear 90/90. but it is too hard to find 90/90 tyre.

HDEO is not suitable for motocycle since it has more zinc dialyldithiophosphate. suitable for heavy duty engine like truck or lorry which running on diesel engine and has no catalytic converter.

btw, bro alexei.

since yamaha 135 lc has its own oil filtering medium, i installed uma racing bypass valve replacing my oil tank cap to relieve the pressure inside my engine.

as stated on uma racing website,

"This product has many benefits. Firstly, the UMAbreather valve is used to replace the original motor oil tank cap to relieve pressure in the engine. As known, engine oil goes through the filtering medium, so it is important to ensure that the pressure loss in the filter does not exceed. This is why the bypass valve in place. If the pressure is incorrect, then the valve will open automatically, allowing oil to bypass the filtering system and balancing the oil pressures.

By controlling the engine pressures, the bypass valve can help the engine to run longer and work efficiently. In the long run, it significantly prolongs the engine life. On the other hand, it can speed up the oil heating especially when the engine is cold, and it will cool faster when the engine is off. Therefore, this product will give you steady and better warm-up RPM. Additionally, with good ventilation, the oil will stay cleaner for longer period.

Besides, the breather valve is also efficient in removing small particles and soot through breather hose. It ensures the engine oil will continue to flow even when the filter has clogged. The bypass valve opening is the only way to keep the motor from becoming oil-starved if the filter becomes clogged. Therefore, the Uma Racing high performance bypass valve not only will greatly reduce the engine pressure, but it allows you to ride with worry-free."

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 01:34 PM

i want to share about my yamaha 135 lc headlamp.
stock bulb is stanley 32 watts. after 1 year usage, the bulb is getting darker. i opened the bulb and see that the glass part of the bulb is full of burn deposit.

i went to a shop in pandan indah, and bought new bulb. OSRAM 35 watts. now my headlamp light is brighter than before. better than stanley. maybe you guy can try OSRAM 35 watts. it has different colours too.

i want to change my fog lamp bulbs, anybody tried faito H.I.D. Mini Bulb?

This post has been edited by piju: Jun 4 2014, 01:55 PM

if there anyone here who has a 2011 yamaha lc. you can try 3 turns out of pilot screw for your MIKUNI BS25 carburetor and you will feel the different between stock setting.

try it and post your result here.

if 3 turn check ur plug color ..... stock setting below 2 turn ...

below 2 ? the service manual said 2 and 3/4.

pijuAbout oil viscosity, here's what I found, and you'll have to read through it a little bit, hope it will answer some of your questions or provide new perspective:
Bob is the oil guy
Motorcycle Oil Page

The important thing is the first table and the last column, "high shear viscosity".
- The value of 15W-40, 20W-40, 25W-40 and and xxW-50 are the same at 3.7cP.
- To me, this means that I should be using this grade of xxW-40 EO, for the same level of engine protection of a xxW-50 EO.
- This type of xxW-40 EO, will have the benefit of lower viscosity, hence, better at flowing, removing heat from engine parts, and lower self heat generation, compared to xxW-50 EO.

This post has been edited by alexei: Jun 5 2014, 11:45 PM

Riding safety:

Source: http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/MotorcycleIntro4.html

bro alexei,

seems like 10w 40 protecting the engine same as 15w 50 but 10w 40 has lower value of Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) at 100°C Max.

10w has more advantage on Low-Temp (°C) Cranking Viscosity, cP Max at 3500 @ -20 degrees which is i dont think that we have that temperature here in Malaysia.

but 15w 50 has advantage on Kinematic Viscosity (cSt) at 100°C Max ( below our engine's operating temperature ).

both 10w 40 and 15w 50 has the same value for High Shear Viscosity (cP) at 150°C Min which i also dont think that our engine reaches that temperature too.

i prefer more protection below 100 degrees.

referring to the service manual, both 20w 50 and 20w 40 can be use on yamaha 135 lc 2011. the lower "W" value is optional.

pijuyou're reading the table wrongly.
10W-40 has lower shear force, than 15W-40.
15W-40 has similar shear force requirements to a 15W-50.
Viscosity numbers, the lower the lighter, faster heat transfer, lesser internal friction and self heat generation.