QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Dec 19 2013, 08:54 PM)
oh ini apa model lai?those cam that comes with rear view mirror punya? lol
PROTON SAGA BLM, FL & FLX Thread V56, Kuda kuda kuda kuda kuda!
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Dec 19 2013, 09:25 PM
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#1
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780 posts Joined: Aug 2009 From: Melehser |
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Dec 19 2013, 11:07 PM
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#2
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780 posts Joined: Aug 2009 From: Melehser |
QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Dec 19 2013, 11:03 PM) yes. those that comes with built in rear view mirror. Best part is, even if the screen is turned off, it is completely invincible... unlike proton exora's rear view mirror where you can still see the reverse camera screen. ah.. ini gooding.. mine to share the sos? belapa damange also |
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Dec 20 2013, 11:55 PM
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#3
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780 posts Joined: Aug 2009 From: Melehser |
QUOTE(V12Kompressor @ Dec 19 2013, 11:11 PM) just look for zedo D900. THere are loads of other models too like zedoD928, etc etc... I dont know which to choose so cincai take D900 only coz looks nice... oh.. taobao? qoo10?hint: try china websites for cheap cheap price. how is the night vision? gooding? |
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Dec 21 2013, 10:11 AM
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#4
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780 posts Joined: Aug 2009 From: Melehser |
a dummy question here..
when double declutching.. how do u all decide how much to match rev before sticking it down? say from 5th to 4th 4th to 3rd 3rd to 2nd?? any range for each? aku ni tak pandai hear the enjin sound |
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Dec 21 2013, 11:43 AM
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#5
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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Dec 21 2013, 10:20 AM) You mean rev match, heel n toe izit? double clutching is mostly those bus or truck drivers do when hard to engage gear...due to unsynchronized manual transmission.....cars now all have syncros on MT.... I meant double DEclutching, means it's sth like heel toe without the brake component lol.. Me wanna focus playing with the clutch first before doing that heel toe haha.. It's hard for me to explain how much the RPM to hit before you release the clutch.....rev match is done mostly when you down shift and don't want the car to jerk forward so much due to the change in gear and to help you stay within the power band smoothly.....and reduce the wear and tear on the transmission. All I can say is practice makes perfect.... O.. Coz i found the "getting car to be smooth by rev match" is too subjective.. Coz i dunno til what rpm to rev baru smooth.. Thought wanna give some rpm range for me as a reference point first before adjusting to shift without looking at the tachometer.. This post has been edited by calvin_kenni: Dec 21 2013, 11:45 AM |
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Dec 21 2013, 01:22 PM
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#6
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QUOTE(TitanRev @ Dec 21 2013, 12:31 PM) Ermmm...from 5-4 rev range no need much since 5-4 the rpm change is not big. Just a slight tap on the throttle will do, say current rpm +1000 to 1500 rpm spot on.. exactly what i needed.. thanks bro 4-3 I will roughly give more throttle, current rpm + 2500 rpm 3-2 this one you need to becareful and will need to rev higher as gear ratio on 2 is taller for me I always bring my rpm up too 5000 to 5500 rpm. If your rev range is wrong the tire will lock up for a while...this always happens regardless FR or FF. FR more dangerous because if ur real wheel lock your tail will start sliding out. My 2 cent QUOTE(dares @ Dec 21 2013, 12:46 PM) QUOTE(TitanRev @ Dec 21 2013, 01:15 PM) lol car body will move forward while enjin left behind lying on the road |
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Dec 23 2013, 06:54 PM
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#7
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780 posts Joined: Aug 2009 From: Melehser |
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Dec 26 2013, 01:30 AM
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#8
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QUOTE(Quazacolt @ Dec 26 2013, 12:40 AM) i've asked my SA and he said minimum also use semi syn (synthium 800), and as i checked the service book (printed in 2012) it does say every 10k km service maybe those buggers at plotong SC cakap too many people buying SV now, malas nak serbis lah.. datang lah every 10k kan senang.. |
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Dec 28 2013, 10:14 PM
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#9
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msia toyo!
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Dec 29 2013, 04:32 PM
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#10
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Dec 29 2013, 03:20 PM) 1) Did u turn the key to off, then put it back ON, wait for injector sequence "teeet" then crank? Over & over again for the 5~10mins? 2) Its coil on plug setup. How do u test spark? Utake out the sparkcoil & sparkplug, connect the sparkplug outside and someone sitting inside the car, you hold the sparkcoil pointing the sparkplug on the engine hook and test spark? Wouldn't you get electrocuted? 2 again) I know it happens awhile back. I still wanto find out, did you crank straight for 15mins? Or you on/off/on/off crank for 15mins? Anything, please refer to https://forum.lowyat.net/index.php?showtopi...post&p=63388829 for further detail. QUOTE(itanium @ Dec 29 2013, 03:40 PM) 1) waited til fuel pump sound stop(i think you get the idea) what bro davidke20 means is you should not crank like the 1st step itanium.. jgn turn the key back to off again..2)almost how you described minus the lectrocuted part. 3)continue cranking for 15mins, if the starter motor wanted to burn it would have done so. And yes i actually started eventually....but not this time. Any forummer with mechanic background or has such encounter before? |
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Jan 3 2014, 12:07 AM
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#11
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well.. spent the whole morning with mahihi on installing arb on my car..
the majisyen took 2 hours to keep checking 2x 4x 5x 6x times why the drop link senget? went to grind and adjust again dunno how many times d til mahihi went and stopped him and say gaga memang liddat one due to the soft hub but anyway.. admire the patience and attention to details.. that fella basically delayed his lunch time for me lol after which went to do some simple swerving left and right at the factory area, as suggested by mahihi to check whether got cracking sounds from behind anot.. was shock to see how sharp now my car.. at least i gain a little bit of oversteer now haha.. (that's if my term is used correctly ride on straight line macam became more stiff? (placebo lah i think) still yet to test on hai speed konar tho.. as abang david pointed out.. my smart tag which i placed on the tissue box was shifting around instead of rolling on my dashboard oh.. btw.. the bos was testing the double lock with my car.. » Click to show Spoiler - click again to hide... « anyway.. many thanks to mahihi for the great products |
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Jan 3 2014, 12:43 AM
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#12
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Jan 5 2014, 12:17 AM
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#13
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installed arb on 2nd jan.. did some cincai test on ldp on the way back from 3max factory.. noticed that the rear is very tidy on sapu konar.. and less jumpy effect on passiing those yellow lines of speed breakers.. might be placebo tho coz dun dare bawak cipat..
today drove up karak and bukit tinggi.. fuhlamak in damp to wet conditions memang gooding yo.. was tailing a gaga when doing that.. memang more confidence in handling konar.. however.. when coming down hill... was very the siok sapu konar with higher speed, tapi 30 min later when joining back karak haiway.. kena slow down like apek and drive really within speed limit.. had to rely on gears as my brakes became very spongy and kena tekan harder to stop the car.. at that time i was worried as i sked some brake fluid leaking? brake failure or sth? coz i had little experience regarding the symptoms of each situation.. after being gentle to the car and drives slowly, eventually stopped for 1 hour to makan satay kat kajang.. the brakes were biting normally again.. so is this overheating? what should i do to prevent this then? or sth even more serious had happened? btw my car is stock from first day except those "plug n play" bars lol i was wondering coz i did some more even serious heavy braking when i was driving a rented gaga FL during my trip in kota kinabalu, where the roads were even more windy and demanding.. tapi the brakes on that rented gaga never had all these spongy feeling despite the hard brakings.. better brake pads perhaps? or a failure in the brake system in my current gaga? thanks for all the tips and advice in advance haha This post has been edited by calvin_kenni: Jan 5 2014, 12:22 AM |
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Jan 5 2014, 12:33 AM
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#14
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QUOTE(davidke20 @ Jan 5 2014, 12:31 AM) Consequences of installing ARB lol side effect of arb.. haha.. thanks bro.. better careful next time |
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