I have to agree on this.

People generally focus on what good brand to have, what brand has better deal, what brand is good etc. but never focus on getting good installer.

While, when air-cond not function properly (leaking gas, not cold etc) time, then straight away blame xyz brand is not good.

In reality, many issue arised have high probablity due to improper installation, poor workmanship on installation, nothing to do with xyz brand or abc brand issue.

So get a good installer also a crucial factor.

From experience, common issue on installation.

1. Improper leveling on blower unit, due to poor workmanship, drill the hole sideway or not according to the position leveling intended etc.
Poor leveling will cause the water inside the blower cannot flow properly, slight of dirt blockage, water leak to outside.

2. Improper installation of compressor, causing vibration on compressor, shorten life of it.

3. Improper positioning of compressor or blower, causing poor air-circulation, resulted not cold etc.

4. Improper soldering on copper pipe, causing gas leak, air-cond not cold. <--- this I had seen in real life and even in this forum, many people blame abc brand or xyz brand, while in reality nothing to do with which brand.

Now difference is about Rm200~400.
I doubt the cost will be narrow further, a little bit may be, but won't be too narrow.

As inverter air-cond needs to run at DC instead of AC, so a conversion mechanism is always needed, and IC for control the variables speed, which means extra cost to product these 2 items.

As to run at variable speed, you need DC.

The stronger factor that could drive inverter become more popular is higher cost of electricity tariff, whereby saving of inverter can easily outpaced the higher cost paid.
As currently, the higher cost of inverter only being recouped through considerably period of use through saving of electricity bill. So the drive for inverter is not so strong.

I use toothbrush, or disposal chopstick that cover with wet cloth for simple way to clean, as when the blower inside "grow""hair", the less air output by the blower.
It works to recover some air-flow, but won't be too clean.

The actual way to clean is dismantle the unit, and wash it thoroughly using jet water, which normal done for servicing the air-con.

It is not about how many hours.

It all depended on electricity tariff.

If non-inverter running full load at 0.75Kw (1 HP), means with 1 hour usage it takes up 0.75KwH.

While if using alternatively with inverter, it saves 30% (a typical use( due to running at below full speed, means
0.525KwH

1Kwh depended on the tariff rate, if using the tariff rate at more than 500KwH (average residential power consumption with common air-conds use) one at 0.516

Means for every hour use, you save 0.155 cents.

So if inverter cost is Rm500 expensive than non-inverter, to recoup the cost.
Rm500/0.155 = 3225 hours of use.

if one day use 1 hour, it needs 3225 days of use to recoup the RM500 extra paid (set aside the noise/motor last longer issue), which means nearly need 9 years time, just for breakeven.
So if purely from money term consideration, inverter is not having any advantage.

If use 3 hours per day, means about 3 years
If use 8 hours per day means about 1 year.

So the math is quite simple, just work out accordingly.

One potential disadvantage of inverter, that based on my observation, compared to non-inverter is that there were cases (even in this forum) of PCB board that malfunction, which is need to control the variable running for DC motor of inverter, which non-inverter is not required this part. The board is not cheap, and warranty may only about 1 year. (I am not sure on this as each brand may different). So if spoil after warranty period, a potential costly part replacement may incurred, while non-inverter doesn't need to have this worry as we seldom hear of PCB board inside the blower unit spoilt, (may be not exposed to external rough environment, as well as it function quite basic as compared to inverter need to run at variable speed)

Also, as if the PCB board of inverter is placed with compressor DC motor, which means they are placed at outside, which exposed to external environment like heat, rain etc, which could potential reduce the life span of a PCB board.

This post has been edited by cherroy: Feb 13 2014, 03:14 PM

How much saving of inverter depended a lot of factor, there is no magical number, you use inverter, means you can automatically get 30% saving in electricity bill, 50%, or 10% whatever number.

Inverter just to replace the start-stop-start cycle of non-inverter, by using variable speed of its motor.

If one set the temp too low, like 18C, whereby inverter need to run full load most of the time aka full speed, the saving won't be much, or your room is not insulated good enough, plenty of heat loss factor around, aka inverter motor always need to run at higher speed to cool down the room, then the saving also won't be much.

That's why no manufacturers dare to use an accurate figure how much saving inverter can have compared to non-inverter, but just stated x% saving with typical use with *mark on it, as it depends on how the usage condition.

Besides the inaccuracy issue/calibration issue,

in iced water, the "batang type" only contact with the "water section", while the ice is in solid form, so the "heat" 0C from ice may not transferred properly/entirely to the thermometer.

Ice changes phase when more than 0C aka turn into water, so when you test the water, surely it won't 0C already.

High temperature doesn't must mean high humidity, but high humidity must have high temperature.

Cold air is less humid generally.
Why cold air less humid?
Because cold air cannot hold on more moisture compared to hot air.
The amount of water vapour inside the air is directly related to temperature, higher temperature, higher vapour can be hold by air.
But high temperature doesn't means must high humidity, it can be low or high in humidity due to present of water vapour.

In desert, high temperature but low humid
But in tropical rain forest, high temperature, high humid.

Why we see water droplet from the blower cooling coil? When a high humid hot air passed through the cooling coil, the temperature of air drop, causing water vapour inside being condensed out as water.
But if the hot air is less humid, the less condensate or water droplet produced.

The same why we see water on outside of our iced water glass.

Extract or inject humidity purposely in the air doesn't affect the temperature of air directly (apart of evaporating effect of water vapour that can cause temperature to drop down a bit).

Humidity only affect our body feel about the temperature due to sweating.

A. 35C with high humid here
B. 35C with low humid in desert

Our body will fear more hot in A, due to our sweat has difficult to evaporate in A, which make us feel hot.
While in B, sweat has much easier way of evaporate, which make our body cooler or feel cooler.

But in reality, both air is at the same temperature

So don't expect inject humidity into air, then temperature will rise or drop, the same with extracting humidity from air, expect temperature to drop.
Humidity affect our body feel about it, humidity doesn't affect the air temperature except due to effect of the humid or moisture/water vapour/water evaporating, then there is some cooling effect due to evaporation instead of humid itself.

So if air is cold, then it must less humid
But if air is hot, it doesn't must be high humid.

High humid doesn't make the air cool, but we feel cool in damp raining day (typically when we can get high humidity reading time) due to

1. It is after rain, which generally air is cooler, no sun, better breeze etc.
2. Our cloth absorb moisture from the air, due to high humid of air, hence the evaporating effect that induce cooling effect.
2. Evaporation effect of moisture around.

Smaller dimension of compressor doesn't make it weaker, or prompt for more failure. Unrelated.

Compressor is about how motor compress the gas, and heat dissipating.

How well the motor compress, depended on the motor capability.
How well the heat dissipated depends on cooling coil surface area and air-flow (fan blowing the hot air out).

It is not like the compressor bigger in size (outer dimension), then it is must be more powerful than a smaller one.
It depended how inside is built.

Many 1.0HP and 1.5HP has the same size of blower, but their BTU is different.
We can't say hey, 1.5HP using same size with 1.0HP, so the 1.5HP is inferior, manufacturer should give me a bigger one for 1.5HP.

Actually good to compare around, sharing issues around, it enhances our knowledge. Just we compare them in term of math, science and engineering aspect disregard it comes from which brand, or which type of air-cond

Just like inverter, we know inverter save electricity bill, but whether it is more cost effective or not,
there is simple math behind to justify how much inverter could save, how much it can help one to recoup more money spent on inverter initial cost, how long it before it actually breakeven with non-inverter.

We don't blatantly say inverter is the best, while totally hammer down non-inverter as useless, waste energy etc.
Unless both are same price/cost, then yes, no reason to choose non-inverter, but it is not the case here.

Unless I am paid by the manufacturer, or represent the manufacturer that get paid for representative fee, I see no reason, why I or anyone needs to be fanboyism on which brand or which type of air-cond.

It depends, it is prejudice on non-inverter.

My company has 2 non-inverter, after 5-6 years usage, just outside of the office wall, just operate normally, little noise.

Variable speed is not guaranteed to have longer life than non-inverter as well.

Inverter is good, but it doesn't means non-inverter out there are easily spoil, whimming produce lot of noise

Non-inverter fanboyism also can say, inverter PCB may easily spoil as well, while non-inverter doesn't have this part...

I have never heard of any inverter manufacturers claim
1. inverter compressor won't produce whinning sound on compressor, although yes, variable speed could make the whinning sound minimal.
2. Non-inverter compressor after using 1.5 years must hear sound. It depends.
3. Inverter lower fan motor won't easily create much than non-inverter unit

In actual fact, replace 6 years from now, is a good option.
As parts generally worn out over the time, be it bearing, mounting etc, also fungus growth inside blower, drainage etc.
Replace it every 6 years, ensure peach of mind the air-cond always working and in good condition.

It is needless to blast non-inverter until they are like not worth the money at all even though we know inverter has its advantage like 1
1. Less possibility of humming sound, but if part does wear out, it also can produce sound
2. Save electricity, but how much save, depends on the math
3. Potential durable than non-inverter, possible due to not running at full load all the time, but it doesn't mean a must, depended on quality built, as well as many factors.

If non-inverter is really so not worth to get it, by that time, then it will phase out itself, consumer won't buy it already.

This post has been edited by cherroy: Feb 24 2014, 10:41 AM

For me, I don't fancy those thing. One item more, may one one more headache in future.
Also, too clean condition may not good for body self immune system sometimes.

Bacteria and virus exist naturally in the environment.
My view, an ordinary clean condition is good enough already, or in other word ensure, filter being cleaned periodically, cooling fin being cleaned properly, drainage system clear of dirt (prevent fungus growth).

Anti-bacterial soap
Anti-bacterial floor cleaner
Anti-bacteria washing liquid
Anti-bacteria air-filter
Anti-bacteria lotion
Anti-bacteria humidifier.
......, you name it, not enough anti-bacteria?

Also too much anti-bacteria/virus substance used could lead to stronger bacteria/virus growth in the future, as they do mutate and change according to environment.

This post has been edited by cherroy: Feb 25 2014, 02:22 PM

For high current running, a wall socket and plug generally is not recommended, because the contact can be burned if the connection is not too good, or poor quality of socket material.

I had seen several socket/plug "glue" together due to "burn" between the connection area. (for ordinary industrial fan usage one).

My view,
install a pump for condensate to flow is overkill.

Just clean the drainage with some chemical under high pressure water or compressed air, then it should be good for few years.

Those jelly built up due to dirt in the blower unit that follow the condensate into the drainage system, so keep the blower clean should last few years without much problem after the cleaning of the drainage system.

Matsushita and Panasonic Malaysia is the same company.
They just change the company name, it is still the same company.

Yes, what he said is true, R22 is scheduled to be obsolete in years time, but when exactly the time that R22 cannot be longer being found in the market, it is beyond ordinary consumer can guess.

If doing renovation now and piping is going to be concealed one, best option is go for pipe that use R410 one.

Replacing an air-cond is easily (after years of use, generally getting old/spoilt and needed to be replaced anyway also), but concealed piping replacement may be more troublesome, due to hacking issue.

By seeing there are massive air-cond out there still using R22, (almost 99% of non-inverter/conventional air-cond out there still using R22), I guess it will take sometimes before we can't see R22 anymore.
I guess the old air-cond may spoilt first before R22 obsolete or non-existing entirely.

This post has been edited by cherroy: Jun 7 2014, 06:11 PM

If compressor died, then obvious option is changing the whole unit, need not to care whether the old air-cond is using R22 or R410 in the first place not.
It makes no different....

Apart from inverter that using R410, I have not yet seeing non-inverter using R410, and non-inverter still selling well out there and widely available.

I don't know there is schedule when Malaysia is going to ban any sales of air-cond with R22, ask before with those selling electrical appliances company, no answer given.

Econavi and inverter is totally 2 different front.

Econavi is detecting movement in the room hence adjust the cooling delivery, so some electricity can be saved, when not utilised.

Inverter is the ability to run motor at variable speed to save electricity.

Even Econavi is off, inverter saving still able to achieve through temperature setting. Just you have econavi to add on top oo it.

Fans always give noise when being run at high rpm, same with computer processor fan, chassic fan. This is inevitable.
High rpm --> high noise.

Want quieter one, then need to run at low rpm, so the concept is always the same for all fan mechanism, that's why those computer cooling fan, when they want it to be quieter, they build it larger so that can run at low rpm with the same amount of output of airflow.

My rule of thumb, never ever put air-cond on top of bed, TV, cabinet etc. or in other word, there is nothing underneath of the air-cond.
As air-cond get old and dirty over the time, water dripping is quite common.

How about put above the window, by extend the hose to there?

Management has no say on the interior part of renovation.
As long as outdoor compressor location remain the same, management doesn't bother where you put the blower inside, hacking wall to make concealed piping etc.

I had same issue before, air-cond pre-installed/concealed piping just above bed position , so when doing renovation time, ask the contractor to round the gas piping to opposite side, around 10 ft, and drainage system needs to redo (cannot use back the original drainage pipe as too long, tilting issue, may result in clogging issue, so install a new drainage system to other the toilet site that adjacent to the room.