gas leak?

The reason you bought wrong on non inverter and installed for 4x4 bigger room, if you had ask b4 to be 1.5hp should not an issue

Ha ha check gas also

ohh....so mean that 4m x 4m room need 1.5hp only enuf?

Yes unless is 1hp inverter

actually non-inverter or not 1 HP is more than good enough for a 4x4 room. have used 1 HP for larger rooms (non inverter and now inverter) without any problems. either you have serious issues with insulation / cool air loss or the aircon has a problem. if the aircon is fine, than the 1 HP one you got is junk but i dont think that is the problem. there is absolutely no need for 1.5 HP for such a small room.

bedroom 1hp is enuf.... get a ceiling fan to get cooler effect .... 1.5hp for bedroom is too much , unless ur bed room is as large as ur living hall....

Ummm... unless the room is ground floor and is very shaded or very good insulation material (like AAC bricks) then yes 1 HP good enough

However, 4m = 13.12 ft so calculating L=W= 13.12 and hlf=70, this gets:
LxWxhlf=13.12x13.12x70=12050BTU

That is somewhere in the league of 1.5HP ac.

hlf is heat load factor and usually varies depending on landed or condo, room orientation (facing which compass direction), dwelling placement (intermediate, corner) and orientation (front facing <compass direction>) and whether first or ground floor or for condo have floors above it or direct under rooftop.

I have written about this before (see post#4).

Even for a room that is perfectly size for 1HP but because using incorrect hlf then it could be underpowered for that room.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Apr 1 2014, 10:38 PM

i agree, if you want to apply a formula you would have to know the volume of air that needs to be cooled. also you need to know the air-exchange ratio, heat coming in from ceiling, walls, door(s) and windows and the occupancy as well as desired temperature. only than can you accurately calculate the need.

however for a rule of thumb a 1 HP will be able to work down the temp sufficiently and more importantly retain the temperature for a prolonged time.

personal experience shows that getting 25°C or around that level is totally no problem for a 1 HP aircon in a room like that even if poorly insulated.

of course if you leave the door open, have a plywood ceiling directly under a hot roof and old style windows you're in trouble. but for a such a room one should first invest a bit of money to insulate it and then install an aircon.

why on earth u need so complicated formula just to buy a 1hp aircon for bedroom ?

juz get 1hp for normal bed room and 1.5hp for bigger masterroom ....living hall about 1.5-2hp ..

Is HiSense aircond is good?

Saw one promotion over Courts Mammoth Website, RM579 for 1HP A/C

Was thinking of getting 2 sets for my spare room and computer room.

HiSense HAC-09ULN
http://www.courts.com.my/product/510286/hi...-1hp-hac-09uln#

I find the calculator at pana malaysia website quite reliable when determining no.of hp to use. the link is here pana hp calculator

a 4x4m room equivalent to approx 172sqf, assume height of 10ft, with 2 adults in the room, 1hp aircond just ngam ngam enough only..

just installed my daikin 1hp inverter R22 yesterday, the installer said R410a type of inverter cooling is faster than normal R22 inverter model.

about installation method, he used a couples of quarter inch tiny nails to fix the indoor unit plate on to the wall instead of the usual wall plug with screws, and he claimed those tiny nails r good enough to hold the 7kg indoor unit.. he said now most installer use this kind of nails to fix the plate..is it normal??

This post has been edited by lembu8: Apr 3 2014, 02:05 PM

use fan to circulate the cold air la.....aiyo

hi steventan85, it's not complicated but the assumptions have to be laid out case by case. If your room is same size as seongmeng then perhaps your dwelling could be better insulated to arrive at 1hp. Conservatively, I'd say otherwise.

Experience borne out for me and this formula is tried and true in our climate. Even smaller size room but because it faces south and no neighbour behind but main road, ac work frequently into the night to achieve set point.

Assumptions:
A. Wall is clay masonry brick or sandbrick- this one contribute high heat mass - oven like in the night. This is the constant factor prevailing and unless specifically using AAC fugedaboutit. AAC halves heat load ie what normally is 2HP for living room, 1HP pun cukup for 22x16 living room.
B. Ceiling is not higher than 10ft
C. Roof - little or no insulation even if have also contribute to storing heat (esp cellulose) in the night.
Aluminium foil with membrane sealing (foil not exposed) - Monier, Parsec Thermobrite, TCM6 can minus 5 from hlf
Those without ie exposed Aluminium will lose efficiency quickly it's installed as the dust will inhibit its radiant heat
reflectivity
D. Air tightness is average - meaning cold air leaks easily esp into toilet and room door - those Raven door rubber seal helps slows that down so can minus 1 or 2
E. Window type - double or triple glazing helps but more important is if it's casement sealed or louvre. The latter can leak cold air out unless using brand like Breezeway or Altair.
F. Outside ground - cemented or soil garden with foliage. Cemented ground acts as a heat bank and will reradiate stored heat esp the air of breezes that blow in. The ambient air may be cooler at night but the immediate ground can feel warm. Sometimes completely sealing without a break/gap can conduct the heat inwards. Unless when cementing the ground is with old tyres - like how Smartcool does it.

But assumption A and B is almost likely the common factor across much of the dwelling in this land on average. The outliers being living on a high hill or very heavily shaded naturally or construction wise.

Try this calculator here, which is close to what I calculated except that it's more generous or less depending upon afternoon sun with or without curtain, etc.

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Apr 4 2014, 12:14 AM

PJusa you nailed the assumptions rightly in your first and last paragraph. I agree with you in whether it will cool and prolong the cool or the compressor would cut in frequently to maintain the cool.

One thing about cooling often discussed is that it's focus on area (LxW) and indirectly volume is taken into account but what is crucial is the heat load imposed by the structure (walls and most often times ceilings). Condo units are much easier to cool given that above and below are air space insulation unless of course it's top floor. It's not so much about area or volume in that situation. It's about how much heat is being removed and how long before it reaches equilibrium.

Daikin R-410A with hot water. Product called Hot Water System

This post has been edited by halcyon27: Apr 6 2014, 12:20 AM

Hi may I know what is the model you bought?
I was told that only Mitsubishi Electric has inverter model, Mitsubishi Heavy Industries don't have. Is it true?
Thanks

They do have.

heavy industry is that self clean thingy
electric is mr.slim eazy clean.

supposedly
electric has longer warranty
heavy industry is cheaper and longer lasting

hi guys,
is the mitsubishi aircond SRK09CM good?
Is it easy to find it's spare parts?

Find from the seller