Smooth bearing is important. But how much more smoother can be that much significant when everything is well tuned altogether.
There are many people who think that free spinning using fingers is enough to measure the car real performance on track when it's not.
I was particularly referring to those who thinks that their bearing is very smooth after dipping in zippo oil and doesn't want to relube them anymore because "see how long this bearing can spin wow!". But then there's the sound of grinding ball bearings inside lol.

For example, when you have wheel bearings, when on the track, the smoothness the wheel can spin is only up to how much the motor drag with all the gears attached together.

It's the same with cars. You can dyno on flywheel and get 200hp. But when you put it on an on-wheel dyno with all the wheels attached and car load, there is probably only like 160hp or so.

Get my point?

hehe...that's my current method also

sifu soulfly recommend this type of lubricant - Tamiya fluoropolymer compound. u may google this product:

QUOTE(soulfly @ Dec 4 2013, 04:10 PM)

I just use Tamiya fluoropolymer compound. As long as the bearings are smooth and doesn't make sound when rotating, then it's good for me.
I know people likes to free-spin rollers and see how long the spin could last, but on track it doesn't really make any difference because the weight of the car and drag from the motor, and the overall setup like roller size/positioning has more effect.

Depending on the course layout, MA chassis may or may not even need front damper. Because it's a balanced chassis, side dampers (in some situations) is already sufficient. You just need to play with the damping travel distance, or the mass damper weight.



Problem #1 - Front dampers on the same pole as front rollers
- It's against the Tamiya rules because the dampers are considered as addtional pair of rollers (max 6 rollers according to official Tamiya Japan rules).
- Another workaround is to 'lock' the damper so it's not considered as roller, but then it became 'dead weight'. Not much help unless you really need to make your car heavier.
- My recommendation is to remove it altogether.

Problem #2 - No rear brakes and rear bottom roller is too low
- When running through course slopes or jumps, your bottom roller might hit the track and potentially damage them.
- My recommendation is to install brake and a bit further behind the roller to serve as brake and to protect the bottom rollers.

Problem #3 - The reinforcing plate on the top of the rear rollers is blocking your mass damper movement, hence your dampers or more less just 'dead weights'
- A 8x8x32 mass damper block probably work better in that placement. It gives weight and some clearance for damper movement
- You could probably also move those front dampers earlier to the back, if you want/need damper in that particular place.
- Another idea is to install those dampers on your brake. So, if you could install the brakes a bit further away from the rear stay, you could install dampers on it with decent clearance.
Example (pic from web)



The easiest method to do this is by using MS FRP rear stay attached to the bottom of your chassis



and



total damage would probably around RM40 or less for these 2 parts