I generally clean the sprayers by running clean water thru them before keeping into storage. I do that for all the sprayers except those used for waxes. Have yet to kill any sprayers with this habit.

Could it be possible that the "whitish haze" leftover by BSD mild marring instead? Normally, any haze left over by Sonax BSD would be gone if you go over it with a fresh layer of BSD, this applies to almost all spray waxes/sealants. Pictures would be good.

There's also Duragloss Rubber & Flat Black Dressing. I bought a gallon of it(impulse buy) and am now looking for people to share.

No problems sharing, I think I have more than enough for a lifetime

A little goes a long way, I think 200ml(as per it's normal smaller sizing packs) is good enough if you're doing your own car. You gonna supply the container or I supply it?

Although this is outright advertising here, I have plans to ditch my G220v2(s) in lieu of getting a RUPES LHR 75E. Will be officially putting up a for sale in the Garage Sales section soon.

I mentioned G220v2(s) as I have more than 1 unit and still unsure if I'm selling all of them.

Well, I'm not the first to own in it Malaysia, that's for sure.

It used to be a problem with the older version of ONR. I have not tried ONR v3, but my experience with ONR Wash and Wax(the green stuff, not the blue ones) is that the MFs release dirt a lot easier when washing than the old ONR v2 that I have.

I think the one in spray bottle is the other one, the Meguiar's D115 Rinse Free Express Wash & Wax, but, I could be wrong. Though, both D114 and D115 is not available locally thru the distributor. They only imported a very small limited batch for test run. I guess, they don't see the point of rinseless washes in Malaysia where water is cheap.

Why order the D151 Paint Reconditioning Cream from overseas when it can be bought locally? Well, unless it's considerably cheaper only would it be worth the effort IMO.

Well, can't blame it if it's an impulse purchase then. The list price for D151 locally from Hypercoat is close to RM300 but not exceeding it, still have change enough for Nasi Kandar for 2 persons.

Er.. Just to be sure, it's not one of those "cheap" 3M clay bars surfacing around recently, right? Coz, those ain't actually 3M. If you know what I mean.

And, multipurpose cleaner is a little too much for lubricant, car wash mixed in regular wash concentration is good enough.

Hm.. Never tried the MF on a small stroke machine before, but it has good results on those 8mm orbit dual actions, even better with larger than 8mm throw orbits.

Can't recommend on the windshield, but if you meant side mirror as the one where you look to see the back of the car, I would recommend Soft99 Glaco Mirror Coat Zero, apply and never touch it(as it will smear). Works well as far as I've used it for a couple of months now.

As for your other question, tinting is done on the cabin side of the car, coatings for windshields are on exterior of the car, I don't see how they would interfere with each other.

D156 is available only in gallon form direct from Hypercoat in Subang USJ1, latest list price is RM230/gallon.

Quite frankly, "new car" doesn't always mean "fresh paint", it's not recommended to wax over fresh paint before it cures, but, for most new cars, it's been sitting for a while and would usually had cured when delivered to the customer.

AIO is All-In-One, usually a cleaner type of wax or sealant. Some contains light abrasives to remove light scratches and some includes cleaners to clean the paint.

So far, Duragloss range of products gives pretty decent results as an AIO, either their 501 Marine & RV Polish or 105 Total Performance Polish are good. Their names may be polish, but they are actually sealants(synthetic wax).

Can be bought locally thru duragloss.com.my, or if you prefer a physical store, the website will show a couple of locations selling them.

Classis foam pads had always been flat. As with Krismas, most of my flat pads, even the oldest ones, are still working and most of my CCS had, well, gone to "other uses".

Depending on what machine you're settling on. I would say, for the same price and if you planned to have the RUPES later. Just get the RUPES pads, the price isn't too much difference from LC.

If you're are skimping, green and yellow would do. I have the full range. The Blue although feels like Scotch Brite, surprisingly the finishing isn't too bad.

Generally, for LC pads, the general consensus is to get orange/white/black for simple 3 pads. LSP application, blue or red is the same, personally don't feel any difference in the softness, gold on the other hand does feel softer.

The LC Hydro pads are actually pretty nice, but due to their foam cell structure, also more prone to breaking down. Still the regular flat pads are the longest lasting.

That's not a cooling fan design. It's a dust collector. Most dual actions started their life as a wood sander. I guess the only reason GG removed them from their latest design because it's adding unwanted additional bulk to the machine.

This post has been edited by GRexer: May 21 2014, 11:26 AM

Most AIO(s) has cleaner or mild abrasives/polish in them. Hence, they'll clean off whatever's on the surface when being worked on.

Most of the time, old wax/sealant gets removed as well in the process, but, permanent coatings(those that crystallise) are safe, though I would be wondering why would you want to AIO on coatings.