bro more pics plz

ok! lol

day3 on my inspira detailing:
fell to the ground, I'm crying inside ;_; http://twitpic.com/dtkhws

finally opening up my Rupes Bigfoot... also beside, 3m masking tape on the chair hehe http://twitpic.com/dtktha

colored/ glossy print lol http://twitpic.com/dtku9e

yay light stand setup done http://twitpic.com/dtkvci

I could use A LOT of practice, buffing marks very uneven hehe http://twitpic.com/dtkxvk

3 washes 2 claying done so far, then polishing on the bonnet, will continue tomorrow lol

This post has been edited by Quazacolt: Jan 28 2014, 03:55 AM

What polish are you using there? Looks like you haven't worked it enough. It should be clearer than that when you've finish working it. Anyway, here's something for reference. Note the speed of the arm movement. Myself, most of the time I go a bit slower than that except for the last couple of passes to clear up the polish.



This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jan 28 2014, 09:07 AM

hi there found out this Meg's Proffesional Paste Wax Item #M1611
wonder is it gd or nt, comparing with Ultimate series? any1 have idea? thanks


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M16 is rare and its way better than Ultimate series wax

is it? i found out the price is cheaper oso.. RM74 only. even Ultimate had discount would oso cost me abt RM 140

btw is there any expire date on wax product ya? sorry kinda noob abt it.. plz enlighten me..

This post has been edited by mirage81: Jan 28 2014, 11:07 AM

M16 is an excellent 'traditional' wax. I say it's 'traditional' cuz it's like decades ago when this first came out.

Pro: Very durable; nice & clean looking (though no 'deep-look' like carnauba waxes); offers good protection; would rival the notorious Collonite 476.

Cons: application is a bit difficult as you'd need a clean surface; on not-so-clean surface (topping up, etc) you'd get terrible streaking/clouding; would stain plastics and trims; this is a wax that would test your 'apply sparingly' technique to the limit - just a little bit too thick then you'd have a big problem in your hand in removing the residue.

Can't compare with the Ultimate range cuz I haven't used them enough to form an opinion. But for the M16, I have 2 cans and that's more than enough to pass down a couple of generations....

One of the can that I have is easily more than 5 years old and hasn't shown any sign of deterioration AT ALL....and who knows how long has it been in storage before I bought it....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jan 28 2014, 11:18 AM

the polish/compound that came with the rupes bigfoot lol... they seem really mild... and tend to dry up quite fast despite me doing it at midnight (hmm the bigfoot is still noisy for midnight operation lol!)

much thanks for the tip btw! i'll work on the passes a lot more/slower and i guess higher rpm? i run on 1 > 2 > 3 settings before stopping; maybe go up to 4?

btw thanks for the recommendation on the lambswool washmitt, it's DAMN plush and holds a LOT of shampoo/soap
even my sis commented it's better off being a hug toy in the bed since it's so damn plush lol...

btw are normal detergent and dishwashing soap ok for the washmitt? and why you mentioned those things don't last? is it because the wool will fall off gradually? i noticed in my wash bucket there are traces of fallen wool lol...

Wow.. u did keep stock for it? i had read some review but it is in 2004-2005. now it had stop production..
coz i had just bought the Meg's New Car Kit.. it include a small bottle of Ultimate Liquid Wax, just wonder should i keep on continue on the Ultimate or change to this #16

i found out Liquid is very easy to use, but not use abt Paste.. im a newbie just started to take care my car...

My suggestion for you is to keep using the more modern sealants/waxes, they're more user friendly. The 'old school' paste waxes is a little different and a little tedious in term of application. Furthermore, M16 doesn't like too much if applied, like I said before, on not-so-clean surface - you'd need to at least use a paint cleaner/mild polish before each application or else you'd get all sort of problems.

But, saying all that, if applied correctly, I honestly don't think there are many other affordable sealants/waxes out there that can better or match its performance....muahahaha....

*shucks*....thinking back....I think my can(s) of M16 are more than 10 years old already.....

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jan 28 2014, 11:35 AM

Thanks for ur suggestion.. will continue use back the Ultimate, and buy 1can M16 keep stock first..


btw ur M16 is more than 10 years old?! would it be dry up? till like this....


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you could use the paste for larger/easier panels, then the modern ultimate wax for everything and then layer on top of the paste

Sound gd! Thank for the suggestion

Never seen Rupes polishes before but from your description, it *could* be a water based polish and also a fast working one. You could try spritzing a couple of light mist of distilled water onto the pad before starting the pass and on each fresh 'top up'.

When I'm using the Bigfoot with the more 'modern' polishes like the Sonax and M101, I tend to do the first pass at speed 1, spreading the product at a quicker motion, then bump the speed straight to 5, slowed my motion to work the panel for a couple of passes then down to 4 and very lightly remove those whitish polish haze.

If you think the Notty lambswool is plush, you should have seen the Wookie's Fist....just imagine twice as big and twice as thick....hahaha...

And why in the world you want to use the lambswool with detergent or dishwashing soap? I don't think that's a good idea...they're natural lambswool and leather...you might degrade it. Lambswools wash mitt require some 'special' care since, like I said, they're natural....like leather (well...they are leather with the fur intact anyway). Rinse off any shampoo as thoroughly as practically possible so that there's minimum traces of any surfactant left. GENTLY wring (more like squeezing) most of the water out then pat the rest of the access water off. Turn it inside out (with the leather facing out) and you'd need to dry it under shade cuz direct sunlight or excessive heat would crack and destroy it...again, just like leather....they need to dry slowly. There would be some 'wool' coming off during the first few uses...but that's normal.

Nope. Looks nothing like that. Still moist and wet.....

Ya another question... had read some article said that for pearl white car is not suitable to use carnauba-based waxes is it true? thanks

Can recommend few reliable coating shop in klan Valley. Thank you

Have you ever seen any labels on the bottle/can from any brands of wax that mention DO NOT USE ON WHITE CARS? Well....I haven't....and I've never heard such a thing.

Maybe what the article meant to say is you couldn't get that deep carnauba-look on a white coloured car when using a carnauba-based waxes, hence not so suitable if that's what you're looking for. If for protection and the rest of other stuffs, I don't think there's any difference whether the colour is white or black...I mean clear coat is clear coat and they're the same regardless what the colour is underneath......

Budget?

This post has been edited by KrisMas: Jan 28 2014, 03:00 PM

I see thanks for the tips

Lucky I haven't wash my wash mitt yet. Will do as advised

Oh Yea! thank for tips.. will proceed to buy later after work

thanks sifu!

1k++