wasn' t thinking.. it D115 and D156 yes u are right


This post has been edited by TamiyaOne: Aug 13 2014, 12:31 PM

let say.my car is clean weekly and not that grit/dirty can this Hyperwash(D110) remove it Without touching the car or still need clean it like normal 1 or 2 bucket system Any experience ?

This post has been edited by TamiyaOne: Aug 13 2014, 12:46 PM

Sifus,

Any wax or coating product can prevent dust/dirts stick onto my car? u know nowadays haze... so many dusts i see accumulating on my bonet, roof etc...

got any meguairs wax or any other products can prevent this? Quazacolt and all sifu2 of FNF

many thanks!

This post has been edited by aromachong: Aug 13 2014, 02:23 PM

no matter what LSP/coating you use, dust/traffic film/dirt etc will still be present on the surface of your car.

the biggest difference is their ease of washing off (be it during rain, or your regular car wash maintenance) as generally good protection will have dirt etched upon itself, NOT the car's clear coat.

Thanks. Meguiars wax will do the job perfectly? im currently using wilson wax also as it's good known in water beading..

by that means wax only make an easier job to eliminate dirt/traffic film/dust during washing process?

for me it does, my megs ULW lasted me since before CNY until now...
obviously the same can't be applied to everyone as my car *almost always* park under shade
and it is layered with Sonax BSD also.

good water bead doesn't mean it's protection/durability is good.

what if your wax expires in just one rain pour? anything after prior to your next wash would be etching directly on your car's clear coat and you will need to spend effort into claying or even polishing the car.

generally it's as you said.
in a nutshell, wax is to protect/seal in what detailing job (eg: polishing) you've done underneath.

i will stick to Meguairs ULW .. u re right... water beading doesn't mean good in protection/durability.. so i wont use wilson wax anymore..

meguairs wax.. so you prefer liquid rather than paste? hmm.. any reason?

i use liquid because i anticipated i will be using for machine application, which i did after purchased the rupes bigfoot

In our hot and humid weather and dirty environment (especially here in KL), I would think only a degreaser can do that. Sorry bro, my experience tells me if I want to touch the paint afterwards (e.g. wiping, drying, polishing, etc.) I need to do a proper wash. You might be able to wash away loose grit/dirt with Hyperwash, but driving around in KL would also exposed the paint to traffic film, oily exhaust fumes, etc. These 'oily' film would make the dirt/grit stick to the paint surface......

Bro, unfortunately I think you're asking for the impossible. You should be looking for something that would be able to protect the paint surface and made washing off those dust/dirt easier....like our Mr Q said...

want to ask want to ask, after polishing the car (say, Meg Ulti Polish, hand applied), after i buff off the polish with MF cloth, do i need to somehow clean the paint surface with something (assume in the perfect world)? IPA?? If i don't have IPA, can i just directly go to apply wax?? (ULW, hand apply)

side question 1: IPA is the Isopropyl Alcohol. Where can i buy this kind of stuff actually? in what form? i've totally no clue
side question 2: talking about Ultimate polish and ultimate compound, is M205 & M105 the equivalent??? just a guess following reading some google search results. M105 is like super popular, then i guess that it is Ultimate Compound lols. As Meg consumer line usually have their Detailer line or Mirror Glaze equivalent. Same to Ultimate Polish equal M205, am i correct??

A good analogy would be when you're using glue. Glue something on a dirty surface, it'll peel off in no time. If you wipe the surface clean, it'll stick better and last longer. If you wash the surface or clean it with alcohol or make sure the surface is 'squeaky' clean, only the glue's grade & properties would dictate how strong it'll stick and how long it'll hold. Best bond can be achieve when the surface is perfectly clean, free from anything that could impede the bonding. It's in the nature of a polish to contain a certain amount of polymer or 'oil' either as a carrier or a lubricant. Cleaning down the surface with IPA or solvent after polishing would remove these oil and promote better bonding of the wax/sealant applied. That is the concept of wiping down the surface clean before applying an LSP.

Try it. You'd see/feel the difference. Other than lasting longer, the Wax/sealant would also go on smoother, would take lesser time to dry/flash off and would be much easier to buff off. Couple that with 'baking' under the sun after applying and buffing off (to better 'cure' the wax/sealant - like baking the car in the oven after painting), it'll make the wax/sealant perform at it's best.

It's not ESSENTIAL that you do so, but it's worth doing it if you got the time. But since you're using products from the same brand, you should be alright if you decide not to do so cuz, normally, they would make products that are compatible with each other, minimizing any of these issues.

I think there's somebody here in the Trade section selling some good quality IPA.

Yup, UP & UC is the consumer version (with a little tweak) of M205 & M105.

I believed you sifu

Ok ok. Then my next question is, what's the correct application method? Spray it onto the paint surface and wipe with MF? (Meaning same as how you would use QD?) Do i need dilution? I search the trade zone, found ppl got sell IPA, its at 99.7% pure IPA. Sounds very strong haha. I don't think i can hand carry it over the plane.. since it is flammable product.

Then another question regarding baking LSP under hot sun.. because i see most wax product just advise buff off after 5-10 mins of application. Is it that baking will make the LSP cure better/performs protection better, even if it will become difficult to buff off??

Errr...don't know about hand carry IPA (or any kind of solvent) in a plane. I don't think you can. As baggage (check-in) also I don't know....sorry.

Normally we would dilute the IPA with distilled water. Dilution ratio would vary but normally around 20% - 25% strength (1:4)...some even diluted it at 1:1. Yup, you use it like a QD but just let it dwell for a little longer for it to work before wiping off, and also spray a little bit more liberally than QD.

What I meant was baking under the sun after you've applied and buff the wax off. Instead of letting it cure under shade, pull the car out under the sun instead. I don't know whether it cures better or faster, but I would always get better overall performance if I do this.

Hyper-wash is AKA ?? in consumer product ?

nothing.

If shampoo plus = gold class shampoo

Here is my guess:
D111 Shampoo Plus aka NXT Car Wash OR Utimate Wash and Wax
M62 Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner aka Gold Class wash
D110 Hyper Wash aka ... maybe Deep Crystal Car Wash??

The above is just my guess. Need sifu to correct me if I'm wrong..

EDIT: looks like i got it all wrong..

This post has been edited by efaceninja: Aug 14 2014, 03:54 PM

incorrect. M62 is dinasour and dun think its available locally

I bought my IPA from here

thanks for the IPA dilution info!

as for the baking LSP, i've always thought you guys means baking under the sun BEFORE buff off.. luckily i asked out again lols. so baking meaning: Apply LSP>buff off>Bake , and NOT Apply LSP>Bake>Buff off