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 Car Care and Detailing [V3], LYN Automotive Detailing Thread

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thom_chai
post Jul 1 2014, 08:27 AM

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QUOTE(scoutfai @ Jun 30 2014, 09:25 PM)
ignore my question, didn't realize you answered already.

Wow surprise to see that Sarawak price even more competitive than Peninsular price!
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Yea, it was on special offer and thus the itchy hand sweat.gif


thom_chai
post Jul 8 2014, 10:24 AM

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QUOTE(scoutfai @ Jul 6 2014, 09:35 PM)
Some new collection of my microfiber towel from ebay. Finally I have something decent to touch on my ride's skin.  smile.gif

1) All at a glance
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2) The thickest one. Claimed by seller 1100gsm. Although I measure with a kitchen scale and calculate manually it ends up 980+gsm only.
user posted image

3) Side view. By far the thickest I have come across.
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4) Feel quite plush on the fingers
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5) Next in term of weight is this.
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6)
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7) Not too bad on the fingers.
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8) Just some common weight MF towel
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9) Drying towel. Love it. Used it today, works great! One piece actually enough for my small humble ride.
user posted image
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Looks good. Those mfs should be able to last for long long time. Mind sharing what's the total damage for this order? brows.gif
thom_chai
post Aug 7 2014, 11:27 AM

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Would ONR makes a good quick detailer as well? Let's say I'm halfway polishing the car at night and would like to continue tomorrow. Dust would accumulate on the paint and I dun like the idea of pulling the car out and wash and dry it again.

Would ONR diluted to QD ratio be ideal for mist and wiping the painted surface?
thom_chai
post Aug 7 2014, 01:58 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Aug 7 2014, 11:42 AM)
Yes. But I do occasionally encountered some minor issues polishing surfaces after using ONR...nothing major...just some minor issues...could be product incompatibility or something.

But for overnight *light* (and unsettled - not sticking to the surface) dust and if you plan to do some polishing afterwards, you don't really have to use the ONR at QD strength. Wash strength in a bucket with a soft mf would do cuz you'd just be needing the lub and not the cleaning strength.
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So QD strength is actually lighter than washing strength you mean? Mind sharing what's the dilution ratio for both please? Thanks for the tips btw thumbup.gif

This post has been edited by thom_chai: Aug 7 2014, 01:58 PM
thom_chai
post Aug 7 2014, 02:05 PM

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QUOTE(LazyJin @ Aug 7 2014, 11:51 AM)
+1 on all counts. I use Megs D156 on my 2 daily drivers almost weekly, finished a gallon in about a year lol. But some of that was down to poor technique of course (read : Applying UQW ). An equivalent to D156 would be Duragloss #951.
Optimum does list 1:16 dilution as QD, 1:64 as clay lube, here : ONR: The Definitive Guide Have only tried D114 which works well.
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I see. Thanks for the heads up man.
thom_chai
post Aug 7 2014, 04:17 PM

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Lol what's wrong with the Ken rotary? Looks very 'makita' like hahaha
thom_chai
post Aug 7 2014, 04:45 PM

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Krismas, the Ken looks eerily similar to the Makita sweat.gif The head is narrower than the Makita thou haha. Under RM200? Wow that's cheap!
thom_chai
post Aug 18 2014, 04:55 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Aug 18 2014, 04:15 PM)
Which RO buffer? If B&D or Bosch, then the DA has far greater vibration. The vibration is far greater than an RB.
It's a polish - contains abrasive that would remove defects and some fine polishing oils to amp up the gloss. Doesn't contain any protection so you'd need to apply a layer of protection (either wax or sealant) after using it.
If you're looking for versatility between the three (Bigfoot, Flex & Ultramate) I would suggest the Ultramate simply because there are plenty of backing plates and pads sizes available so it's very much possible you can tackle the whole car (including all the curves, hard-to-reach areas, intricate surfaces, etc), that is if you can handle it's vibration. Bigfoot & Flex has limitation on some of those areas and I sometime still need to bring out my rotary with the spot pads. The main reason I went for the Bigfoot is simply because the vibration it created is not that much different from an RB....much much more tolerable for me.

So, if one machine, I would say Ultramate. But if you don't mind bringing out your rotary and also can afford the price tag, I would say the Bigfoot.

Anyway, best way is to try yourself la....and see what suit you best. Go visit Osren, I think they got all three machine for you to try sweat.gif .....
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I have the Ultramate DA and I agree it's more versatile with choices of BP and pads to match different jobs. But I think the DA is not very kind on small 3.5" pads and they tend to wear out my small pads easily with all the vibrations and pressure we put on the head of the DA.

I prefer to tackle tight panels like B pillars with a rotary. With small pads, the rotary is actually very easy to control.

Btw Krismas,why not get the Rupes Bigfoot Mini to complement your bigger Bigfoot? brows.gif


thom_chai
post Aug 18 2014, 05:36 PM

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QUOTE(KrisMas @ Aug 18 2014, 05:26 PM)
Tried it. Maybe one day but for now just can't afford it. And, like you said, still prefer rotary & small pads for those areas. Oh...did I mention that it's also as expensive as it's bigger brother.... ohmy.gif  ohmy.gif  ohmy.gif
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Say wut? As expensive as the bigger brother? How much is it and the bigger LHR15/21? If price doesn't differ much, I'd rather get the lightweight Flex PE14 specially fitted with 3" BP for precision buffing of small and tight area.
thom_chai
post Aug 21 2014, 03:56 PM

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Anyone can share the proper method of applying opti-coat 2.0? I was thinking of placing 5 drops on a clean foam applicator pad, spread evenly on 2ft X 2ft area, then place 2 drops for each subsequent 2ft X 2ft.

Spread as evenly as possible to avoid high spot and thus avoiding the need to buff with mf cloth.

Wonder if above steps are correct or not.
thom_chai
post Aug 21 2014, 04:52 PM

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QUOTE(ZeroSP @ Aug 21 2014, 04:47 PM)
With our weather, best of luck... You will definitely get high spot. Wipe it lightly as soon as you see it.

The thing is with our temperature and humidity, it flashes off very fast but high spot will dry up fast too, just wipe off lightly as soon as you see it, what already applied will stay applied.

The better application medium would be a suede cloth wrapped over a solid block.
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Thanks for the tips. When you mentioned wiping the high spot as soon as it appears, do you mean wiping it using clean mf or the applicator? Suede cloth like the one we use to wipe sun glasses, what do you think?

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