Reportin' in!

sorry no model to show-off coz still practicing my technique

limfreelance bro, u have amazing skill, i as a casual newbie modeller really want to learn from u leh!

but u mod ur ex-s parts, i like the shoulder part, never know how to do that like urs.

that box is huge! can compare to PG box size liao!

oo, never knew about that, thanks for info!

ok, going to flat coat my gunpla for the first time (2nd model btw)
how hot should the water be to put my flat coat can in it? (as ppl mentioned this can excite the molecules inside and solve frosting issue?)

and another question, had my first experience with airbrushing but not really decent result, tried to mix the solution to milk consistency, but the air brush can't spray the paint out. (tried at 5psi for pre-shading and 10psi for base coat and 2nd coat), and i had to kept thinning it and the result caused splat.

and for maintenance of air brush, firstly i thought just use thinner to clean it should be suffice (as told by another senior in this)
then i saw this video

with such complexity and the delicate work to maintain an airbrush, it kind of making me take a step back in gunpla kit alre.

thank you all for ur advise,

TheAdmiralfor point 2, based the reading on the pressure meter and my senior who told me on how to use airbrush, sorry that i do not have a sample but the meter indicator has 5 bars (like those in car speedometer) before it writes 30 on it, i may be wrong on the unit though

General_Nic Nazrul90 do i need to do full disassembling of my airbrush everytime and clean with thinner after finish use just like what the video showed?

nazrul90 btw, my senior in gunpla told me to buy some industrial thinner for cleaning purpose since that is less costly compared to use mr. leveling thinner. May i ask, where do you get ur cheap thinner and what thinner to get for cleaning lacquer? Nearby my area only ace hardware, and mr.diy

yup, definitely an enjoyable series and nice bgm~

next mg that i will get is gundam X and sengoku astray, build strike? dont really fancy about it, coz i alre have a perfect strike.

btw, a question to all ppl here, when u building ur kit, with all those hundreds of parts to remove nub marks, can u all remove them perfectly without deforming the surface of every single part? 'cause, when i building my proto zero, no matter how hard i focus, and try not to damage the surface, in the end, i sure deform one or two parts' surface slightly

wow, after gundam X in Jan 2014, there comes sengoku astray in Feb 2014! where's my time?!

how u painted those gold/silver paint on those parts? by hand brush?

This post has been edited by gundamsp01: Dec 18 2013, 10:54 AM

guys, where do u all get ur waterslide decal from? coz now i'm painting my proto zero, soon enough, i need to apply decal liao. Since proto zero has waterslide decal released separately (sigh), can anyone kind enough to tell where to get it in PJ/KL area (or should i get it online eg: HLJ)? and price range around how much?

search on google then u can get the result

am i the only one who prefer proto zero to original wing zero tv?

nice camera shot, but why there is a seed in between the timeline evolution of the UC series?

can't find any seller for proto zero water decal, not even HLJ, now remain amiami, but due to shipping fee, i have to wait for gundam X to ship together sigh...

not that my painting on proto zero is finish though, mask here mask there, is such a pain in the ***...

i prefer if they come out with advance of zeta ms in mg glory

anyone has better way of masking a certain piece for painting different colour (or a totally different method?) ?

for example the proto zero wing below (the fin is different colour than the other part of the piece) (rightmost in the pic)


or the front skirt (bottom left in this pic)


coz now whenever i mask and do airbrush, the paint is not perfect, and i have to mask and fix the area again...really tedious work, not to mention so area are hard to mask as the surface really uneven.

This post has been edited by gundamsp01: Jan 7 2014, 09:40 PM

conventional masking tape, as those are cheaper (much cheaper) to be used and disposed compared to tamiya one,
it can block the paint quite well on unwanted area.

I did use toothpick to press down the side, just that in the end, it always tend to be not perfect after airbrushing.
some seniors told me to use enamel paint to handbrush the different color part after laying the primary color.
and if u look at the pic, the front skirt upper part is rinse up, which make the masking abit hard.