IMO, the casing is damn bulky and not that nice looking, overkill with built-in DAC, and the biggest fail; non-standard keycaps. other than that, CM do make good keyboards like the QFR and Stealth.

if you guys like the ergodox, you need to look in GH for Acidfire's Nexus. its an ergo board, but the thumb area has an angle to it, so it is much more comfortable to use.

its simple.

buy first, regret later. anything else, do not matter.

stay away from Razer keyboards. they have very bad build quality from a mechanical keyboard perspective, and worst is the keycaps are non-standard layout, which means you will have super hard time finding replacement keycaps. ducky on the other hand, is everything opposite the Razer. so, get the Ducky.

well first of all, its the layout. sure it looks garang and such, but its not ergonomic for your hands or your table placement. in the long run, you risk getting RSI and such because its quite far to get from the mouse to the keys with addition to the weird angled sides too.

second, the layout plays part because the stock keycaps are most probably coated ABS, which will very soon peel and get dirty, etc. you will need keycaps replacement of proper good PBT's or ABS DS and this is at least to me, quality issues as well.

thirdly, if any of the other functions break down, say the DAC, you will need to send the whole bigass thing to RMA. just because a non-related function to typing broke down, everything goes back to repair and you would still need another keyboard to use. waste time and money for that. ok, fine, you let it slide, no RMA as long as can type, but in the long haul, you will have a 'cacat' keyboard not having its full function. if you want to re-sell, the value goes down very quickly.

this is my 2 cents only. i strongly advise you spend money on proper quality items, not that im saying ducky is the best, but there are filco's, realforce's and such out there thats so much more worth the money.

the latest shine 3 has more led modes and better build from the first gen; the plastic body feels more solid. if you want the leds, you can't go wrong with it.

switches depend, if blue then they are the same tactile clicky. of course you can try red or brown, you can audition them at heavy-arm or any shops that have them.

ducky, filco pcbs are more durable but if you don't do any internal modding, then its not really a concern. unless those korean customs.

if you don't plan on spending a tonne of money, then grab the shine 3 or filco if you can and buy proper dyesub thick pbt keysets or thick doubleshot abs keysets. you can really feel the difference in solidness typing, not to mention the good looks.

THIS;

buy first, regret later.

ask kaiserreich. he is getting them from Japan.

there is a preview of sprit's metal case. not looking as we expected.

the case also got wavy lines and extra lubangs behind.

no drillz there? must use own imagination...

no problem, as long as buy first, regret later.

Round 2 Raindrop set coming soon from BunnyLake@GH. prepare your wallets.

the LZ-FE board GB they also sell bare pcb with plate only. big hint they wanted to clear old items for newer things.

last time at kbdmania someone told me TriK pcb is not completely compatible with other korean custom boards. need to trim2 abit they say. A87 only that can fit all other korean customs. but maybe this new board try get the dimensions and see.

17: Complete Blood Splat Set (9 keycaps): $600 – Sold to whiteduck for $600 as a set

dunno. made with real random blood splat?

54: Salute = $325
55: OG Tri-Color = $325
56: Jack O’Lantern = $325

it wont last long bro. fake clacks are in the wilds now.

Shadovved from Singapore collected an insane amount of GirlDC caps. can try dig his post some time ago. i think thousands of dollars worth of them.